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X-1Texas
01-30-2011, 11:17 PM
New to the board, this is my first post.

Picked my "new" boat today, 2007 Mastercraft X-1, 310hp RTP with 72 hours. Took it out for a lake test before heading home just make sure everything was good. Within about 5-10 minutes after starting it and getting it off the trailer I was shutting it down because the temp. alarm went off and it showed 210 degrees on the gauge. I watched the gauge for the time I started it to see what temp it was going run at. When it was up to about 180 and still rising I started to suspect a problem and decided not to go anywhere. We stayed within 50 yards from the dock and when the alarm started to sound we idled back to the dock. Temp hit 210 and I turned it off.

I pulled the hose off the raw water pump to see if it was pumping and restarted the boat for about 5 seconds. Pump working great, pumped a good bit of water into the bilge in 5 seconds.

Thought maybe the thermostat might be stuck, tapped on the housing some nothing changed. So I decided to take thermostat out to see if I could get water flowing to cool the engine. Put the hoses back and re-started and ran it up to about 1200-1300 rpms and after couple minutes temp still rising it hits just over 200 and the alarm comes on again.

I drove 2.5 hours to pick up the boat so I brought it home and I'm going to get it fixed and seller is going to pay the repair cost. I live in Dallas/Fort Worth area so if I take somewhere it would probably be Texas Mastercraft.

Anyway, sorry for the long post. Does anyway have any ideas?

scubaprsn
01-30-2011, 11:36 PM
If your pumping water without your thermostat in and still getting hot readings most likely the temp sending unit is bad. Same thing happened to my F150. New sensor fixed everything.

X-1Texas
01-30-2011, 11:58 PM
Thought that could be possible, but exhaust manifold, valve covers, hoses, pretty much everything is too hot to touch. I have an '89 Supra with a 351w and I can put my hand on the exhaust manifolds for as long as I want.

Now when I started it to put is back on the trailer the alarm is on it says check engine.

vision
01-31-2011, 12:05 AM
Removing the thermostat in some engines actually prevents adequate flow of water through the block. The thermostat is a necessary diverter in many models. It is in the MCX and I bet the RTP as well.

I would make sure the debris screen at the bottom of the transmission cooler is clean as well as this can also cause overheating despite good water coming out of the raw water pump. Lastly, a plug in the cooling jacket distal to the thermostat could give similar problems. But if the transmission cooler screen is open, I am betting on T-stat.

X-1Texas
01-31-2011, 12:18 AM
Thanks. I'll check for blockages tomorrow. Texas Mastercraft is closed on Mondays anyway. I'd like to figure it out tomorrow and run a little anti-freeze through it. Tuesday night it's supposed to get do to 15 degrees.

vision
01-31-2011, 12:37 AM
If you can not get it functional and are worried about freezing,

- pull the water drain plugs on both sides of the engine (in 2007 probably both have a knock sensor attached to them - loosen the knock sensors with 1/2" wrench and the actual drain plugs are 1"),
- disconnect the garden hose that runs between the two exhaust manifolds,
- pull the intake water hose off the bottom of the transmission cooler to let water drain,
- and with the safety lanyard pulled and the boat out of water, crank the engine for about 30 seconds to push water out of the pump (motor should turn over but not fire with the safety lanyard pulled).

It only takes about 5 to 10 minutes.

But, if you have a heater or shower, you do need to blow the water out WELL and anti-freeze can help prevent damage to the heater core. Most folks run AF through their ballast pumps as well. I actually do not and just run them for about 30 seconds after the tanks are empty to remove water from the pump housing.

Thrall
01-31-2011, 01:58 AM
Try running it on a hose out of the water. If you're not getting equal water out of both exhausts, I'm betting a blockage somewhere from crap that got past the raw water screen or a shredded impeller.
Did you ck the impeller? Maybe it's good enough to push some water when you tested it into the bilge, but isn't pushing enough to the engine circulating pump.

X-1Texas
01-31-2011, 10:45 AM
Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm going to try to leave early today and get home to troubleshoot.

I'll try with a hose next. I didn't look at the impeller. The water pumping out pretty much filled the whole diameter of the RWP outlet. So it seemed to pumping really well.

Can I put a thermostat in from an auto parts store? Pretty every boat dealer is closed on Monday's in DFW.

Jorski
01-31-2011, 01:19 PM
I wouldn't put in an auto t-stat...if you find the correct one you will be okay, but you are introducing another variable into the equation when you are trying to eliminate possibilities.

Don't know about your engine, but in my LT-1, you cause a whole new set of problems when you get a regular auto t-stat.

CLTMC
01-31-2011, 03:04 PM
Pull cooling hoses and look for blockages, most of the debris will collect at the transmission cooler. Check the condition of your impeller. Always start with the simple things.

The previous owner could have shredded an impeller and not pulled all of the shredded pieces from the transmission cooler intake grate after installing a new one.

It is rare that we see the T-Stat being the cause of a overheating issue.

A dealer will probably have to hook up Diacom to your boat to erase the check engine code.
Otherwise your warning buzzer will come on from time to time.

Let us know what you find

sand2snow22
01-31-2011, 04:38 PM
Pull cooling hoses and look for blockages, most of the debris will collect at the transmission cooler. Check the condition of your impeller. Always start with the simple things.

The previous owner could have shredded an impeller and not pulled all of the shredded pieces from the transmission cooler intake grate after installing a new one.

It is rare that we see the T-Stat being the cause of a overheating issue.

A dealer will probably have to hook up Diacom to your boat to erase the check engine code.
Otherwise your warning buzzer will come on from time to time.

Let us know what you find

My thoughts exactly....

X-1Texas
01-31-2011, 10:40 PM
Good news, I found the problem. The bottom of the trans. cooler was clogged with what looked like little bits of wet wood and dirt. I was pretty excited to find all that crap in there, because I knew that probably the cause. Checked the impeller, looked. Pulled all the hoses, back flushed the trans. cooler, put thermostat back in and put everything back together. Ran with a hose for a little while. Temp. leveled off about 160.

I live a 1/4 mile from the boat ramp so I drove it down there to check on the conditions and decided to put it in the water and run it a little a bit. It ran and drove great. Then I took it back home and put some anti-freeze in it. It's supposed to get down to 10 degrees here Tuesday night / Wednesday morning.

Thanks for all the replies to my post. I'm relieved it wasn't anything major. I'll add checking and cleaning trans. cooler to my annual list that I had been doing to my '89 Supra.

sand2snow22
01-31-2011, 10:47 PM
Good to hear ^^^^! Going to be a cold Super bowl, huh?

X-1Texas
01-31-2011, 11:04 PM
Looks like it's going to be pretty cold Tuesday thru Thursday. Should be back to about 60 degrees by Sunday. Yesterday it was 65-70.

CLTMC
02-01-2011, 11:12 AM
Glad to hear it was an easy fix! And welcome to the forum, there is a wealth of knowledge here that can help you enjoy your MC ownership experience to the fullest!

scott023
02-01-2011, 12:22 PM
Good news, I found the problem. The bottom of the trans. cooler was clogged with what looked like little bits of wet wood and dirt. I was pretty excited to find all that crap in there, because I knew that probably the cause. Checked the impeller, looked. Pulled all the hoses, back flushed the trans. cooler, put thermostat back in and put everything back together. Ran with a hose for a little while. Temp. leveled off about 160.

I live a 1/4 mile from the boat ramp so I drove it down there to check on the conditions and decided to put it in the water and run it a little a bit. It ran and drove great. Then I took it back home and put some anti-freeze in it. It's supposed to get down to 10 degrees here Tuesday night / Wednesday morning.

Thanks for all the replies to my post. I'm relieved it wasn't anything major. I'll add checking and cleaning trans. cooler to my annual list that I had been doing to my '89 Supra.

Good to hear it wasn't something tha costed you an arm and a leg.

JimN
02-01-2011, 12:34 PM
Good news, I found the problem. The bottom of the trans. cooler was clogged with what looked like little bits of wet wood and dirt. I was pretty excited to find all that crap in there, because I knew that probably the cause. Checked the impeller, looked. Pulled all the hoses, back flushed the trans. cooler, put thermostat back in and put everything back together. Ran with a hose for a little while. Temp. leveled off about 160.

I live a 1/4 mile from the boat ramp so I drove it down there to check on the conditions and decided to put it in the water and run it a little a bit. It ran and drove great. Then I took it back home and put some anti-freeze in it. It's supposed to get down to 10 degrees here Tuesday night / Wednesday morning.

Thanks for all the replies to my post. I'm relieved it wasn't anything major. I'll add checking and cleaning trans. cooler to my annual list that I had been doing to my '89 Supra.

ANNUAL list? The owner's manual used to recommend that before taking the boat out EVERY time. This isn't an annual thing- it should be done a lot more often than that if you want any longevity or reliability from your boat.