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MachinedConcepts
01-13-2011, 07:04 PM
Couldn't find too much info on it, so I am posting here. Doing an oil change on my 05 X star, and wanted to know a few things... the oil is draining extremely slow.. I mean barely anything coming out the hose. Anyone have any advice on how to get around this? I might have only drained out like 3 qts so far, so I would hope there is still at least 2 qts to go.

Also, what is the oil capacity?

Planning on doing the trans fluid at the same time, as they recommended the same oil as the engine oil.. any tips on doing this?

thanks!

JMann
01-13-2011, 07:28 PM
Heat the engine it will drain faster. Also get a fluid pump or drill pump to pump it out.

There are many threads on oil changes and fluid pumps on here if you search.

Slinkyredfoot
01-13-2011, 07:29 PM
I noticed you are from the midwest, are you still boating or has your boat been inside sitting for the last 2 months? Maybe why the oil is draing so slow because its gotta be thicker than molasses from the below freezing temps we have had here in my midwest.

MachinedConcepts
01-13-2011, 07:32 PM
Yep from the midwest, but the boat sits inside my heated shop 24/7. Mostly just winterized it so I know how to do it, should I ever have to store it outside. Never gets below 55-60 in the shop. Thanks for the advice on the drill pump, I will check it out!

Any ideas on fluid capacities? Or just fill till the dipstick reads good?

JohnE
01-13-2011, 07:32 PM
There's probably a jillion threads here on oil changes....But yes, using the drain hose will take forever if the oil is not hot and even then it takes a while.

MachinedConcepts
01-13-2011, 07:35 PM
Sorry for the redundant post then. Guess thats why it says 'TT newbie' next to my name :P

etduc
01-13-2011, 07:51 PM
Couldn't find too much info on it, so I am posting here. Doing an oil change on my 05 X star, and wanted to know a few things... the oil is draining extremely slow.. I mean barely anything coming out the hose. Anyone have any advice on how to get around this? I might have only drained out like 3 qts so far, so I would hope there is still at least 2 qts to go.

Also, what is the oil capacity?

Planning on doing the trans fluid at the same time, as they recommended the same oil as the engine oil.. any tips on doing this?

thanks!
The drain hose fitting, screws inside the original drain plug holes. So the id of the hose is smaller. (actually much smaller) I let mine drain overnite.

JohnE
01-13-2011, 07:53 PM
Sorry for the redundant post then. Guess thats why it says 'TT newbie' next to my name :P

No worries. Just let it drain and grab a six pack...or maybe a 12 pack in your case.:D

CantRepeat
01-13-2011, 08:27 PM
No worries. Just let it drain and grab a six pack...or maybe a 12 pack in your case.:D

Best oil change advise I've ever seen posted. :)

east tx skier
01-13-2011, 09:12 PM
Also, make sure you unscrew the oil cap and make sure the entirety of your drain hose is lower than the block. The hose is long and if it coils up the inside of the bilge or engine compartment, it can be disruptive to flow. Oh, and like others have said, it takes a while. Welcome!

Jerseydave
01-13-2011, 09:32 PM
http://www.mityvac.com/hq_images/07400.jpg

I use the mityvac fluid evacuator on my x-star for the trans fluid.

For engine oil I run the engine up to temp and then let it gravity drain overnight, usually after a nice long day of wakeboarding.

If I remember correctly, my MCX takes about 6 quarts of oil. 15W40 Rotella and NAPA 1069 filter.

MachinedConcepts
01-14-2011, 02:37 AM
Thanks a million for the advice guys. I might experiment with the drill pump though. Literally though, the drain hose is full stretched out perfectly straight, and it barely makes it out the drain plug at the back.

Jerseydave
01-14-2011, 06:01 PM
Thanks a million for the advice guys. I might experiment with the drill pump though. Literally though, the drain hose is full stretched out perfectly straight, and it barely makes it out the drain plug at the back.

Same here, so I made up a foot long piece of clear tubing with a female brass fitting on it so I can screw it to my stock drain hose (just while draining oil only). I found it hard to believe that MC put a drain hose on that doesn't reach :mad:

Thrall
01-15-2011, 12:59 AM
Just get one of those drill pumps from an auto parts store. Match up some fittings from garden hose to FPT for connecting to the oil drain and 2 garden hose to hose barb to attach some lengths of hose to. It will suck out the oil in under a minute and you san use the hose connections to suck out the trans fluid.
Works well for other stuff like pumping oil into difficult to access thind like manual transmissions and transfer cases too.

bigmac
01-15-2011, 09:43 AM
If you're going to use a pump of some kind, please resist the temptation to put a thin tube down the dipstick tube no matter what the instructions with the pump say. That will eliminate the possiblitity of the you posting a thread later "My oil drain tube is stuck in the dipstick hole and won't come out", a thread title we see here a couple of times a year. Go to the hardware store and buy the brass fitting (1/4 inch NPT with whatever size barb you need for the pump you buy) to connect the pump directly to your factory drain hose.


http://airinc.thomasnet.com/ImgMedium/221.jpg

east tx skier
01-15-2011, 10:27 AM
If you're going to use a pump of some kind, please resist the temptation to put a thin tube down the dipstick tube no matter what the instructions with the pump say. That will eliminate the possiblitity of the you posting a thread later "My oil drain tube is stuck in the dipstick hole and won't come out", a thread title we see here a couple of times a year. Go to the hardware store and buy the brass fitting (1/4 inch NPT with whatever size barb you need for the pump you buy) to connect the pump directly to your factory drain hose.


http://airinc.thomasnet.com/ImgMedium/221.jpg

I must admit that I must have missed these several threads. I have done this method for several years without a problem. I'm not saying it couldn't potentially be an issue and tend to try to avoid doing things that could be problematic. That just hasn't been my experience to date.

flipper
01-15-2011, 03:01 PM
I do mine with a drill pump. Pumps out pretty quick

bigmac
01-15-2011, 05:15 PM
Other people may see it differently. In my application, it seems more logical to carry one thing down to the boat - pump/oil reservoir in one unit - rather than bucket+drill, and it seems more logical to pump the oil out through the drain hose that Indmar so conveniently placed right there already attached to the lowest point of the oil pan. Draining it through the dipstick tube instead has never made any sense to me for a boat with a drain hose, but maybe I'm not seeing all sides of the issue.

ntidsl
01-15-2011, 05:35 PM
What's the hurry...just let in drain for a few days...you aren't getting on the water any time soon...lol...I will say though, my 05 drain hose extends 5-6 feet out of the plug hole...double check to make sure its not hung up on something.

Jersey Dave has the correct oil and filter info above...welcome!

east tx skier
01-15-2011, 06:00 PM
Other people may see it differently. In my application, it seems more logical to carry one thing down to the boat - pump/oil reservoir in one unit - rather than bucket+drill, and it seems more logical to pump the oil out through the drain hose that Indmar so conveniently placed right there already attached to the lowest point of the oil pan. Draining it through the dipstick tube instead has never made any sense to me for a boat with a drain hose, but maybe I'm not seeing all sides of the issue.

This past year, I drained it cold through the drain hose. I was planning to winterize that weekend. So on a Wednesday evening, I just dropped the hose and let it start draining. By Friday, evening, I had collected everything and installed a new filter and added fresh oil. Warmed up the engine on Saturday morning after adding fuel stabilizer and changed the transmission fluid. Drained, added AF, fogged the cylinders, and, but for some odds and ends, done. Much quicker to change the oil ahead of time.

psychobilly
01-15-2011, 06:09 PM
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If I remember correctly, my MCX takes about 6 quarts of oil. 15W40 Rotella and NAPA 1069 filter.

I'm not an orl guru but I do know that I use Rotella in my 7.3 Diesel F250. I was told that orl is fer Diesels. Does your MCX have a Diesel in it or is the Rotella motor orl also used in Gas applications??? I'm really not trying ta be a smarty pants here I'm just try'n ta learn sum'n about orl...

Jerseydave
01-15-2011, 07:10 PM
I'm not an orl guru but I do know that I use Rotella in my 7.9 Diesel F250. I was told that orl is fer Diesels. Does your MCX have a Diesel in it or is the Rotella motor orl also used in Gas applications??? I'm really not trying ta be a smarty pants here I'm just try'n ta learn sum'n about orl...

IIRC Rotella has the same rating as Pennzoil Marine 15W40 but is much easier to find.
(read that on this forum before)
No diesel engine in my x-star, but I wish it had a DuraMax!
BTW, your F250 should either have a 7.3 liter or a 6.0 liter (unless it's that new diesel Ford just came out with, or the very old 6.9 liter)

FrankSchwab
01-15-2011, 07:24 PM
Rotella is rated for both Diesel and Gas use. The general assumption around these parts is that it's a high-quality oil in the preferred viscosity, and is well-suited to marine use.

psychobilly
01-15-2011, 07:55 PM
Very interesting on the Rotella. I never knew that... I used Castorl GTX 20/50 if my memory serves me correctly in my Indmar 454 BB. It's a used boat and the PO had no clue what orl was previously used.... I hate changing orl types on motors but what do you do???

JD I edited my last post. ;-) Hadn't had coffee yet when I posted. lol I was awoke'n at 3am for a false fire alarm in the hotel I'm in here in Perth... Some drunk busted the fire panic switch outside this morning....

BNIROOSTER
01-18-2011, 05:50 PM
Also, make sure you unscrew the oil cap and make sure the entirety of your drain hose is lower than the block. The hose is long and if it coils up the inside of the bilge or engine compartment, it can be disruptive to flow. Oh, and like others have said, it takes a while. Welcome!

TX took the words right out of my mouth! It will drain much faster with the cap off.