View Full Version : engine hatch foam-and more
01-10-2011, 07:36 PM
i purchased a 96 205 prostar, and have been giving it the tlc it needed for years. the foam inside the engine hatch is falling off. has anyone replaced it? and what did you use to replace it? was thinking of using dynomate but afraid it might be to heavy. Anythoughts, places i can look for a kit? Also, do anyone know the proper lenth of the struts that go on the engine hatch? mine where missing.
secondly what size steering cable should i purchase to replace the one in the boat, particular brand recomended?
thirdly, the guy i bought the boat from said it was winterized after pulling the engine plugs, exhaust plugs and hoses, but the tranny hoses are still hooked up is this ok?
this form has been great, fixed the gas gauge, redid back seat as it was busted with some retarded 2x4 blocks holding it up.
01-10-2011, 11:56 PM
Don't use dynamat. Dynamat only deadens the vibration not the sound, It is also not made to go in an engine conpartment (heat issues). I would look to use some automotive engine bay sound deading material (Lordco or an auto place would carry it). It should come in sheets that you can peal and stick in once you have removed old foam and clean the surface.
01-11-2011, 02:35 AM
There are several good threads on TT that deal with engine box insulation -- just search "insulation" and/or "engine box." Have a look at this one http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=30120&highlight=insulation
01-11-2011, 04:31 AM
ahh.. well thanks my appologies about the search i tried sever other "key words" didnt find what i was looking for like engine cover, engine hatch - guess box was the word i was looking for.
01-11-2011, 11:09 AM
Not to worry. It takes awhile to figure out the fine points of searching here on TT. You can also do Google searches. I enter "Mastercraft TeamTalk <search word>'.
Here's another good thread on insulation http://press.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=1513
east tx skier
01-11-2011, 11:37 AM
The stuff I used (pictured in the second thread) is apparently no longer available (at least from Overtons). If anyone comes across a good source, let us know. I don't need it, but many people tend to need this refurb at one point or another.
east tx skier
01-11-2011, 12:04 PM
I'm going to answer my own question (at least with regard to the overtons material).
The kit that Overton's used to sell is made by "Bonded Logic." I used it when the insulation rotted out of my old MC. Not the prettiest stuff in the world, but did as good of job at noise reduction as the stock material at least. If it gets torn, it can easily and seamlessly be patched with foil tape.
I searched for this a while ago (it was never easy to find on the Overton's website and is not listed as "sold out"). This (http://www.buzzillions.com/dz_103947...on_kit_reviews) is the only site I could find that had any reference to it. They apparently make the insulation out of recycled blue jeans and put a foil back on it as a heat shield.
You can also try part number 5692t13 from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmastercarr.com)
01-11-2011, 01:02 PM
This link was on a previous engine box job looked good
01-11-2011, 01:58 PM
I used the McMaster-Carr product. Here's a pic of the final installation. (More details are included in the first thread I referred to above.)
01-11-2011, 07:13 PM
wheelered, how well has that held up to use? and how many sqft did u buy?
01-11-2011, 10:49 PM
I ordered 8' of the 1' skinned adhesive backed foam. http://www.mcmaster.com/#sound-absorbing-foam/=ajuk54 This was for my TriStar which should have the same engine box as your 205.
I did this in the summer of 2009 and then sold the boat last spring so haven't able to see how it lasted over the long term. I do know, though, that once the foam was securely pressed to the inside of the engine box (which I had thoroughly cleaned) it wasn't going to budge. The adhesive is rated for 200o and the foam itself for 225o.
01-12-2011, 10:38 AM
I used the skinned 1" on my 205, from McMaster-Carr. I did the work, not the best install I've done, but works.
McMaster-Carr, also a good place of stainless screws, etc.