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Jason99T/A
01-07-2011, 03:58 PM
I know this subject has been beat to death. However, I cannot find the write up from TMC #1 in the FAQ and I am looking to refinish mine in the coming weeks.

Thanks,
Jason

east tx skier
01-07-2011, 04:33 PM
Here's the condensed version from memory. Sand it down to bare wood and clean off the remains. Apply teak oil with the palm of your hand. Allow it to dry thoroughly. You repeat this process and go finer with the sandpaper each time. Harold went all the way to 2000 (or so) grit wet/dry and would wet sand with soap and water. Some, myself included, find the deck to be a little slick to stand on when it's wet, if you go this far with the sanding. But it's a matter of preference. My preference is to skip the wet sanding altogether and stop after 3--4 coats. This lasts me all season and I put my ski on while it's on the platform.

It still looks nice, but it isn't as slick. Here are a couple of examples of this modified, less time consuming version of his method.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_1gl9obJSimU/S9umKlwwnzI/AAAAAAAAC3Q/RrTiIucL3Rk/s640/100_1604.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_1gl9obJSimU/S9umLH836CI/AAAAAAAAC3U/reQ84IG2aDE/s640/100_1606.JPG

Scott S
01-07-2011, 05:03 PM
Anyone ever us teak oil-sealer rather than just teak oil? Iif so what did you think about the teak oil-sealer compared to just using teak oil.

medicmoose
01-07-2011, 05:10 PM
Yeah, definitely do not go all the way to sanding with 2000 grit if you plan on using it at all. Sure it will look great.....blood covered and all, after you slip and smash your head ;)

TXMC-06X2
01-07-2011, 10:04 PM
I just did the 400 grit and the 600 grit steps with an orbital sander and it worked great.....and it can still be used (not slippery)

TXMC-06X2
01-07-2011, 10:07 PM
Here's the condensed version from memory. Sand it down to bare wood and clean off the remains. Apply teak oil with the palm of your hand. Allow it to dry thoroughly. You repeat this process and go finer with the sandpaper each time. Harold went all the way to 2000 (or so) grit wet/dry and would wet sand with soap and water. Some, myself included, find the deck to be a little slick to stand on when it's wet, if you go this far with the sanding. But it's a matter of preference. My preference is to skip the wet sanding altogether and stop after 3--4 coats. This lasts me all season and I put my ski on while it's on the platform.

It still looks nice, but it isn't as slick. Here are a couple of examples of this modified, less time consuming version of his method.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_1gl9obJSimU/S9umKlwwnzI/AAAAAAAAC3Q/RrTiIucL3Rk/s640/100_1604.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_1gl9obJSimU/S9umLH836CI/AAAAAAAAC3U/reQ84IG2aDE/s640/100_1606.JPG

I have a question for you....Did you wet sand at all, or dry sand the whole time. I have heard mixed opinions saying you should always wet sand, but it seems like you could get better results dry sanding. Let me know what you think.

H20skeefreek
01-07-2011, 11:34 PM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=38823

east tx skier
01-07-2011, 11:41 PM
I have a question for you....Did you wet sand at all, or dry sand the whole time. I have heard mixed opinions saying you should always wet sand, but it seems like you could get better results dry sanding. Let me know what you think.

I did not wet sand. Just dry up to about 1000 grit and a once over with 0-steel wool at the end. Oil and dry thoroughly between sandings. Not slick in my experience.

TN X-45
01-08-2011, 08:22 AM
Any different approach to the teak/fiberglass inlay platform with the black lines between the teak? I did a light sand in between the black separators with a couple of coats of teak oil this year. I cant imagine I can do anything but hand sand.

CantRepeat
01-08-2011, 08:35 AM
Any different approach to the teak/fiberglass inlay platform with the black lines between the teak? I did a light sand in between the black separators with a couple of coats of teak oil this year. I cant imagine I can do anything but hand sand.

I got an 8 inch long piece of 3/4 inch wooden dowl rod and put a cut in it about 3 inches deep. I turned down the other end to fit my drill. Now just put a piece of sand paper in the slot you cut and go to town. Don't hold it in one place to long. I used this to get most of the heavy stuff done in between the slats.

CantRepeat
01-08-2011, 08:37 AM
I used the sealer and Harolds method to do my platform. As said, it looks awesome but will be very slippery. I will not be using that method on my new boat but rather just stripping it, running some starbrite stripper/cleaner over it and oil it.

pdhj1990
01-08-2011, 09:16 AM
I found reference to this product on another forum:

http://www.properautocare.com/sntenuteclki.html

Does anyone have experience with this product? I have to restore my teak platform shortly.

Paul

pdhj1990
01-08-2011, 09:34 AM
Here's a thread that addresses a few boat owners experience with the Snappy Teak-Nu product:

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6271&highlight=teak+platform

Thoughts?

Paul

Chicago190
01-08-2011, 10:55 AM
Here's a thread that addresses a few boat owners experience with the Snappy Teak-Nu product:

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6271&highlight=teak+platform

Thoughts?

Paul

I highly recommend this product. My platform was very mildewed, and I don't have an electric sander or the patience to hand sand it properly. Teak-nu completely cleaned the teak in one application and took about an hour from start to finish. I applied 4 coats of teak oil and let it dry/soak-in for 24 hours between coats. Make sure to wear gloves if you use Teak-nu and don't let any splash in your eyes.

pdhj1990
01-08-2011, 12:52 PM
What type of teak oil do others recommend? I'm certain someone has experience with a high quality product on this forum :toast:

Paul

east tx skier
01-08-2011, 02:58 PM
Amazon is what I have been using for the last six seasons or so. It looks nice, isn't slick, and holds up well.

CantRepeat
01-08-2011, 03:09 PM
I highly recommend this product. My platform was very mildewed, and I don't have an electric sander or the patience to hand sand it properly. Teak-nu completely cleaned the teak in one application and took about an hour from start to finish. I applied 4 coats of teak oil and let it dry/soak-in for 24 hours between coats. Make sure to wear gloves if you use Teak-nu and don't let any splash in your eyes.

The guy in that thread would of had better results if he would have used a teak brightener as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Star-Brite-81532-Starbrite-Brightener/dp/B001AJ61EO

trickskier
01-08-2011, 03:25 PM
How's this look?

63689

east tx skier
01-08-2011, 03:27 PM
How's this look?

63689

Slippery when wet ;)

gatorguy
01-08-2011, 04:19 PM
I got an 8 inch long piece of 3/4 inch wooden dowl rod and put a cut in it about 3 inches deep. I turned down the other end to fit my drill. Now just put a piece of sand paper in the slot you cut and go to town. Don't hold it in one place to long. I used this to get most of the heavy stuff done in between the slats.

Nice trick, I was wondering how I was going to get in between my slats. I have been procrastinating starting the project because I wasn't sure how to get in there.

CantRepeat
01-08-2011, 04:29 PM
How's this look?

63689

Like crap, get back to work!

http://www.mikesell.net/images/boat/teak2010.jpg

sully
01-08-2011, 04:36 PM
Amazon is what I have been using for the last six seasons or so. It looks nice, isn't slick, and holds up well.

Same here, good stuff!

TX.X-30 fan
01-08-2011, 05:52 PM
Amazon is what I have been using for the last six seasons or so. It looks nice, isn't slick, and holds up well.



Have you tried dot3 brake fluid I heard it looks similar to teak oil and penetrates better??

TX.X-30 fan
01-08-2011, 05:54 PM
Cantrepeat can you enlarge that pic??

CantRepeat
01-08-2011, 09:16 PM
Cantrepeat can you enlarge that pic??

I'll check with Coz and see if it is possible. :D

btw, I love that guy. Other then the speedo post! :( j/k Coz.

Barefooter92
01-08-2011, 09:26 PM
to answer your questions TMC#1 uses starbrite teak oil in the white bottle.

CantRepeat
01-08-2011, 09:29 PM
Yes he does. And if you want to see a complete walk through of his guild, check out this thread.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=28941

TX.X-30 fan
01-09-2011, 09:13 AM
I'll check with Coz and see if it is possible. :D

btw, I love that guy. Other then the speedo post! :( j/k Coz.




Probably not the right forum for this............

CantRepeat
01-09-2011, 09:19 AM
Probably not the right forum for this............

I lost all my internet links for that place. Can I borrow yours? 8p

TX.X-30 fan
01-09-2011, 09:59 AM
I lost all my internet links for that place. Can I borrow yours? 8p




www.hoosierbobspettingzoo.com.........:D

thatsmrmastercraft
01-09-2011, 10:20 AM
www.hoosierbobspettingzoo.com.........:D

I hear they are getting a lot of "spam" there too. :D

CantRepeat
01-09-2011, 10:51 AM
I hear they are getting a lot of "spam" there too. :D

Nice!!!!!!

TXMC-06X2
01-09-2011, 11:48 PM
I did not wet sand. Just dry up to about 1000 grit and a once over with 0-steel wool at the end. Oil and dry thoroughly between sandings. Not slick in my experience.

Thanks for the help. Up to this point I have only wet sanded 400 and 600 grit. I will try it again dry sanding up to 1000. I will post a pic of the finished product. Thanks again for the advice.