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helton333
12-29-2010, 11:22 AM
On my 205V, the speaker wires are not long enough to reach the amp mounting location - is it ok to just splice a piece of wire with butt connectors? If so, does it need to be speaker wire (I have 20 gauge) or is there a recommended other wire to do this with?

CantRepeat
12-29-2010, 11:38 AM
On my 205V, the speaker wires are not long enough to reach the amp mounting location - is it ok to just splice a piece of wire with butt connectors? If so, does it need to be speaker wire (I have 20 gauge) or is there a recommended other wire to do this with?

I believe most installers will tell you no, do not splice them. If you must I would only do so with soldering iron and shrink tubing.

JimN
12-29-2010, 11:43 AM
On my 205V, the speaker wires are not long enough to reach the amp mounting location - is it ok to just splice a piece of wire with butt connectors? If so, does it need to be speaker wire (I have 20 gauge) or is there a recommended other wire to do this with?

20 AWG wire is too small unless it's connected to a 3W/ch head unit from the late '70s and the speakers are about 3' away.

You don't need Munster Cable or anything special but you should use something that doesn't have PVC insulation- the PVC causes copper to corrode badly. You could use low voltage lighting wire, found in the lighting or electrical department at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

willowtreexx
12-29-2010, 12:10 PM
I believe most installers will tell you no, do not splice them. If you must I would only do so with soldering iron and shrink tubing.

20 AWG wire is too small unless it's connected to a 3W/ch head unit from the late '70s and the speakers are about 3' away.

You don't need Munster Cable or anything special but you should use something that doesn't have PVC insulation- the PVC causes copper to corrode badly. You could use low voltage lighting wire, found in the lighting or electrical department at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

i agree with both comments. I had to also do this to my car. I spliced but MAKE SURE YOU SOLDER!!! that makes all the difference in the world. when youre done soldering, use black electrical tape to wrap the ends, and i always put mine in a wire loom to keep things protected and together, and of course looking clean

JimN
12-29-2010, 12:18 PM
I really prefer Heat N Seal shrink tube (it has glue that oozes out when it gets hot) but Heat N Shrink butt splices work, too. Even using dielectric grease and butt splices works well- I have never had a joint fail when I did it that way.

Cobra Rob
12-29-2010, 01:02 PM
Just wanted to add I would run 14 gauge..

Check out monoprice.com for good stuff realllly cheap.

Ski-me
12-29-2010, 02:14 PM
I just re-wired my blazer and found a roll for 12 gauge wire at Pep Boys for about $30 or $35. Seemed to work well.

bturner2
12-29-2010, 02:36 PM
Depending on how correct you want to get you may want to consider a marine grade speaker wire. The wire is typically tin coated to prevent corrosion. All other rules apply (solder, heat shrink and route properly). Unless standard copper speaker wire is sealed at the splice and the connections it will corrode when exposed to moister and air. Is it worth the extra cost.... depends. I would expect based on what most people spend on their speakers, amps and such the added cost of the correct marine grade wire shouldn't be a great concern. It wouldn't however be the first time I've seen someone spent big money for hardware only to connect everything together junk cables.

kkkeating
12-29-2010, 02:50 PM
I wouldn’t worry about PVC insulation; PVC insulation does not interact with copper. Almost all the copper wire used in buildings and underground conduits has Type THW or THHN/THWN insulation, which is PVC. Lamp and Landscape cord, Type SPT-1 is also PVC insulated.

iktomi
12-29-2010, 09:26 PM
20 AWG wire is too small unless it's connected to a 3W/ch head unit from the late '70s and the speakers are about 3' away.

You don't need Munster Cable or anything special but you should use something that doesn't have PVC insulation- the PVC causes copper to corrode badly. You could use low voltage lighting wire, found in the lighting or electrical department at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

What Jim says is correct. Its called "zip cord" -------Soldering will do, but why bother? The zip cord is a heavier and higher quality wire.

Now--keep in mind that if you look closely (1) of the cords that are bonded together has a TINY ridge on it. That will help you identify Pos from Neg from Speaker to Amp. Its your call as to which goes where.

BTW---I always use "Liquid Tape" on connections and exposed wire.

JimN
12-29-2010, 10:49 PM
What Jim says is correct. Its called "zip cord" -------Soldering will do, but why bother? The zip cord is a heavier and higher quality wire.

Now--keep in mind that if you look closely (1) of the cords that are bonded together has a TINY ridge on it. That will help you identify Pos from Neg from Speaker to Amp. Its your call as to which goes where.

BTW---I always use "Liquid Tape" on connections and exposed wire.

I would recommend heat shrink or heat n seal butt splices if the wires will be bundled or run in contact with any metal. The voltage rating the wires even for electrical tape is higher than liquid tape. Soldering, done properly, is about the best connection but if the wires are moved when it's cooling, the joint won't be very good, electrically. Honestly, having done literally many thousands of car/truck/boat/farm tractor audio jobs (and one Oscar Mayer Weiner Mobile), butt splices work fine and even in a wet environment, they last for years unless they become wet from direct contact with water.

The8Ball
12-29-2010, 11:24 PM
My stock radio was spliced with crimped butt connectors - from Mastercraft. Not marine rated. Didn't even use tinned wire either. 18 or 20 AWG, it seemed. 1998 PS 205.

That stock stereo worked great, for 12 years. Never a problem. I did rip it out, and upgraded it... used 14 AWG tinned speaker wire, soldered joints, heat shrink, etc, etc...

east tx skier
12-29-2010, 11:26 PM
My stock radio was spliced with crimped butt connectors - from Mastercraft. Not marine rated. Didn't even use tinned wire either. 18 or 20 AWG, it seemed. 1998 PS 205.

That stock stereo worked great, for 12 years. Never a problem. I did rip it out, and upgraded it... used 14 AWG tinned speaker wire, soldered joints, heat shrink, etc, etc...

I didn't know better when I made a few splices in my wire with butt connectors and electrical tape. 16 AWG regular old speaker wire t'boot. Sounds fine. I'll replace it when it dies. Power is run with 8 gauge wire.

frosty
12-29-2010, 11:35 PM
I use soldering butt connectors, like this:

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/images/products/medium/19935.jpg

The local Home Depot (florida) has them.
I don't have very good luck with the crimping variety.

Just slip one of them on one of the wires, twist the wires together, and hit it with a heat gun until the solder ring in the middle melts into the wires... it shrink wraps & seals itself, too.

I do not use any electrical tape on my boat, the adhesive sure makes a mess after a year or so, if you need to remove it.

JohnE
12-30-2010, 09:52 AM
How about a good ole western union splice? I'd be comfortable with just that and good electrical tape. Not the cheap stuff. A $3-4 roll of 3M. Of course I'd prefer to solder but it'll be fine without it. Butt splices will be fine too.

thatsmrmastercraft
12-30-2010, 10:07 AM
I use soldering butt connectors, like this:

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/images/products/medium/19935.jpg

The local Home Depot (florida) has them.
I don't have very good luck with the crimping variety.

Just slip one of them on one of the wires, twist the wires together, and hit it with a heat gun until the solder ring in the middle melts into the wires... it shrink wraps & seals itself, too.

I do not use any electrical tape on my boat, the adhesive sure makes a mess after a year or so, if you need to remove it.

Haven't used those but I will have to pick some up. I agree with the adhesive mess from electrical tape being a real negative.

frosty
12-30-2010, 11:45 AM
I guess I should have done this in my last post:

Home Depot link: Solder Butt Connectors
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?keyword=solder+butt&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

bturner2
12-30-2010, 01:03 PM
I guess I should have done this in my last post:

Home Depot link: Solder Butt Connectors
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?keyword=solder+butt&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Now those are sweet. Never saw them before. I'll have to take a trip to home depot and check them out.

The8Ball
12-30-2010, 01:19 PM
Everything I've learned, on how to properly do marine electrical, I learned from this guy:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination

http://i.pbase.com/g1/84/622984/2/93311917.bT0x0reK.jpg

EXCELLENT how to articles - on many things.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects

...PSS install, repacking stuffing box, seacock installation, using the right kind of sealant vs. 5200 for everything...

BMcD
12-30-2010, 05:05 PM
On my 205V, the speaker wires are not long enough to reach the amp mounting location - is it ok to just splice a piece of wire with butt connectors? If so, does it need to be speaker wire (I have 20 gauge) or is there a recommended other wire to do this with?


The quick answer to your question is "Yes" it is "OK" to splice. You really don't even need to use a butt connector for crimping. Get some good shrink tube, strip the wires back, twist them together, and shrink so it will repell moisture.

With regard to wire size, you want to at least match or go bigger with the gauge wire. Better wire means better conduction. If you plan on keeping your setup for a while, do everything right the first time and enjoy for years. Buy some good quality wire, rerun the entire length, and fire up the system. Overkill - probably. The right way - absolutely.

I've been a stereo guy since winning a competition in high school nearly 20 years ago. That said, I still take shortcuts if the setup is only temporary.

Live Day1 (http://www.LiveDay1.com)