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ProStar190 Downunder
12-27-2010, 06:45 AM
Hi,

I have just got my boat on the water for the first time after purchasing it from a dealer who imported it from the states. I did an oil change, replaced spark plugs, water pump impellor, fuel filter and emptied the fuel tank and replaced with fresh fuel. Had some issues with the starter motor on the ramp, think it was seized a little from lack of use. Once on the water it started without hassle and after a short time of cruising everything seemed to be running smoothly, so decided to put a skier on behind. After only a few hundred metres the boat engine stalled. It started again first try, no problem! but then stalled again after only a short distance. The stalling doesn't feel like a fuel problem as there is no spluttering or coughing, the engine literally stops dead. Any ideas?

Merry Xmas to all.

ProStar190 Downunder
12-27-2010, 06:47 AM
Sorry, should've mentioned the boat is a 1993 Prostar 190 with Indmar 285 hp.

CantRepeat
12-27-2010, 08:37 AM
Kill switch? Maybe a loose wire or the part that keeps the circuit complete is old and failing?

thatsmrmastercraft
12-27-2010, 10:31 AM
First two things that come to mind after the kill switch would be coil wire or battery connection. When it dies, do you lose all power? Could be a really bad distributor cap and rotor. Or a bad coil.

east tx skier
12-27-2010, 04:06 PM
Check those battery terminals for a solid connect. Also, bypass the kill switch to remove it from the equation. The older boats sometimes end up with worn kill switches (safety lanyards) and don't make contact like they should.

ProStar190 Downunder
12-27-2010, 07:38 PM
Cheers guys. Kill switch makes sense, it seemed to happen more often when going over wash. Will bypass the switch and hopefully see an improvement.

ProStar190 Downunder
12-31-2010, 08:14 PM
Well it's not the kill switch - bypassed it and still having problems. Have also replaced the coil and gave the bowls of the carby a good clean in case it was a blockage of some sort, all to no avail. The stalling occurs more regularly on higher revs and strangely will not occur when running @ 2000rpm. Does this engine have any engine management systems that would cause it to shut down? I'm thinking that the engine running on 2000rpm may be some sort of limp home mode?

thatsmrmastercraft
12-31-2010, 08:19 PM
Your description made the problem sound electrical. Have you cleaned all battery connections, including the ground connection at the block?

What condition are the distributor cap and rotor in?

Table Rocker
12-31-2010, 08:35 PM
Make sure that the valve on the top of your fuel tank is fully open. If yours is like mine, the handle should be parallel to the hose. Also make sure your fuel filter was installed in the right direction. There should be an arrow on it.

It sounds a little like it isn't getting fuel delivered to the carb fast enough. When it is under load and needing large fuel quantities it runs out of gas. It dies, the electric fuel pump fills the bowl again and it starts back up.

The8Ball
12-31-2010, 09:36 PM
This sounds like a fuel problem. I am guessing:

Clogged/bad fuel filter(s)
Bad fuel pump
Bad/clogged fuel line from tank to engine

...not getting enough fuel flow at higher RPMS... something is clogged somewhere.

Table Rocker
01-19-2011, 08:59 PM
Well it's not the kill switch - bypassed it and still having problems.Any progress getting your boat going?

ProStar190 Downunder
01-20-2011, 08:27 PM
Afraid I've thrown the towel in and it's with my local Mastercraft service dealer now. Hope to find out what the problem is today and have it running smoothly for a day on the lake on Australia Day (next Wednesday). Thanks to everyone for your advice.

Table Rocker
01-20-2011, 08:34 PM
Let us know what it turns out to be. It could save us some trouble of our own in the future. Here's hoping for a simple fix and a small repair bill.

psychobilly
01-20-2011, 09:47 PM
G,day mate,

I had a similar issue with my Maristar the other day. (454BB Chevy) I hadn't run it in a couple of months and I put her in the wader. I tried to start her and the battery didn't have any guts left to it so I went and bought another battery. I tried again and it turned it over fine but wouldn't start. I pumped the throttle and seen that no fuel in the carb so I pulled it out and started looking. Now I have the electric fuel pump on her. I took the fuel line off at the carb and nothing. I thought maybe fuel filter was clogged so I took the line off the input side of the filter, nothing. I couldn't hear the fuel pump running so I thought it was done. It wasn't but it seems like it only runs a lil bit after you turn the key on and then stops until the motor is running. I hot wired it to try and see if it was pumping and it wasn't. I pulled it off and took it apart and there is a lil screen in there. It was all clean and there's nothing to my fuel pump. Kind of like a small air tool motor. It has 4 lil metal veins in it and they were all good. I put it all back together and sucked on the fuel line from the pump to the filter and hot wired the pump again. VIOLLLLA!!! GAS!!! Hooked it all back up properly and she fired right up. My pump doesn't seem to be self priming.... Hope I didn't confuse you bud. I'm down under in Perth at work right now until the 11th of Feb so if you wanna speak on the phone you can PM me your number. I'm on a rig off the northwest shelf so you can't call me but I can call you.

right'O
Psycho

muskingumriverdocks
01-21-2011, 05:59 PM
If it were a fuel problem it would sputter and die slowly. If it cuts completely off I guess electrical, loose connection somewhere. Check wiring under dash,ignition switch,or maybe a bare wire causing it to ground out.

ProStar190 Downunder
01-26-2011, 08:35 PM
Had a trouble free day on the water yesterday! I'm still not 100% sure what the problem was but can only put it down to the rotor button I replaced before putting the boat in for a service. The guys at my local mastercraft dealers put the boat on the water and said it ran no problems and the rotor button was the only thing I changed between having problems at New Years and taking the boat in to them. I pulled the old rotor button apart yesterday and there is a small connecting rod between the points where it makes contact with the power from coil and the end that sends the spark to the cylinders and it would seem that this was not making good contact at both ends and would loose spark when hitting a bump or on higher revs.

It's frustrating not knowing for sure but while I have trouble free boating I'm happy.

Thanks everyone for your thoughts and tips.

oldairboater
01-27-2011, 05:56 PM
I always Check fire and fuel. Then timing and compression. Been doing that for many years when it comes to trouble shooting. After I find the general problem I do one thing at a time. Not knowing drives me crazy---short drive.

ncgreg
01-27-2011, 08:51 PM
"""If it were a fuel problem it would sputter and die slowly. If it cuts completely off I guess electrical, loose connection somewhere. Check wiring under dash,ignition switch,or maybe a bare wire causing it to ground out.""

Well, not necessarily. If there is a blockage in the fule suction line to tank, it will run good, then starve out like the key was turned off. Then will likely restart and run again. I already had this issue and it was caused by some gummy crap in the tank that got sucked into the fuel line inside the tank.

Trouble shoot it this way, disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump, thread in a barbed fitting, and put on a good johnnyrude fule tank. Fire it up and drive off. It the problem repeats, you can rule out the filter, suction line, and boat tank, and start looking upstream for the problem.

Oldeboy
02-05-2011, 08:50 AM
My old boat, Moomba/Indmar/carb left me out on the lake once. All the sudden the engine quit running and wasn't getting any fuel. After a tow back to the dock, and troubleshooting it for a couple days, I found I had a bad/corroded connection between the oil pressue sensor and the fuel pump which cut fuel to the engine.

muskingumriverdocks
02-05-2011, 11:46 AM
You said it starve out, an engine starving for fuel will still die slower than an ignition problem. Case in point, turn fuel shut off valve, turn key off which one shuts it down quicker.

JimN
02-05-2011, 12:04 PM
Well it's not the kill switch - bypassed it and still having problems. Have also replaced the coil and gave the bowls of the carby a good clean in case it was a blockage of some sort, all to no avail. The stalling occurs more regularly on higher revs and strangely will not occur when running @ 2000rpm. Does this engine have any engine management systems that would cause it to shut down? I'm thinking that the engine running on 2000rpm may be some sort of limp home mode?

If it's not fuel injected, it has no "limp home mode". If it is injected, you need to check the fuel pressure at Key ON/engine OFF, Idle, 2000RPM and WOT.

Does the tach jump around when it's beginning to stall? That might indicate a loose wire at the tach or ignition switch. Also, make sure the base of the distributor is clean and well connected to the block- this is the ground reference point and if it's not clean, it can't ground properly. If it has points, check the condenser and the coil wire. For whatever reason, I used to see a lot of 351 motors with bad coil wires.