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View Full Version : 91 maristar 210 ski locker leak help please


vshockey10
11-26-2010, 07:28 PM
As some of you know I just got the boat and this is the first weekend to take it out. We came down to Alabama for thanksgiving for the warm weather and try it out!

So a problem that we have found is that when we stop and put the boat in idle water fills up in the ski locker. Is this another drain plug hole? should I have been given a plug for it? or what is it? it is on the bottom towards the rear of the locker.

here is the video of what I am talking about now.

the line that is there is something to do with the ballast system that is installed but im not sure how it really works. I do know that the white make fitting does not fit in the hole

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJQEXlzrmhQ

thanks guys and gals!

etduc
11-26-2010, 11:33 PM
Go to any plumbing supply house or Lowe's. Buy a 3/4" or 1" brass plug (not sure what the actual size is) Plug the hole. Yes it is a drain hole.

If the hose was part of a ballist system, probably some form of "Rube Goldberg" design. (Very common, with our older boats, and when early ballist systems were ("Gerry rigged")

vshockey10
11-27-2010, 11:06 PM
ok thank you very much.

I think we have a leak somewhere else though. we plugged it with a cork last night and it still filled up but no water was coming in through that hole. is there any common places to look?

any idea on how this ballast system works? hah

rholmes
11-28-2010, 12:19 AM
That is actually supposed to be a cooler. It originally came with a plastic screw in drain plug and allowed you to drain the water from the cooler to the bilge.

You are definitely taking on water, check your drive shaft seal or exhaust hoses to make sure they aren't leaking.

vshockey10
11-28-2010, 12:37 AM
That is actually supposed to be a cooler. It originally came with a plastic screw in drain plug and allowed you to drain the water from the cooler to the bilge.

You are definitely taking on water, check your drive shaft seal or exhaust hoses to make sure they aren't leaking.

alright thanks for clearing that up. that makes more sense since it does not just go strait out the hull.

I will check those two places tomorrow before we leave hopefully. I have a feeling its the driveshaft seal though because we has the motor running with the cover open and I couldn't see any leaks unless it is after the silentmaster under the floor

to check the drive shaft seal should I put the boat in the water and look at the through hull ? or look from under the hull while the boat is out

sorry for all the questions. Im def a newbie at all this inboard stuff

bturner2
11-28-2010, 07:27 AM
To check the shaft seal the boat will have to be in the water. First check it with the engine off to see if any water is coming in. If so you'll probably be best to starting off with new packing. If not you may be able to get away with just adjusting the packing nut.

To check the stuffing box you'll need to have clear access to the stuffing box and the drive shaft. On most inboards this means removing the engine cover and the floor panel over the drive shaft. Not sure how your boat is set up. Once you have clear access, with the boat in the water have someone you trust put the boat in gear and idle. You should see about 1 drip per second coming from the stuffing box. Resist any urge you have have to put your hands anywhere near the turning shaft. If there's a little more coming out you can most likely tighten the nut (with the engine off) to properly adjust the leak.

Based on your video what ever is leaking is leaking at a good clip. If your shaft is leaking that much based on the age of the boat and fact that you don't know the full history of the boat I'd recommend repacking the stuffing box. As this is a straight inboard it really isn't hard to do and should be pretty easy to get at.

Unless all your packing is gone I doubt the packing nut would leak enough to let that much water in the boat. Let us know what you end up finding. Good luck.

ksdaoski
11-28-2010, 07:53 AM
Another easy check are the speedo lines. Probably not it but I would still check.

vshockey10
11-28-2010, 06:35 PM
I will have to do it in the spring now as we winterized the boat today. after we realized you cant see it with out removing the floor we just said it will have to be dealt with in the spring.

but whats concering me is you said you have to have the motor on to do this.. well if you just leave it there docked shut off the boat still fills up. could that be the packing still?

FrankSchwab
11-28-2010, 11:44 PM
Yes. The shaft packing is below the water line if the boat is just sitting. If the packing is too loose, it'll come in just like any hole below the waterline.

The packing is cheap - $3 for flax packing or $15 for Gore-tex at Skidim. The flax packing will last 10-20 years, but needs a good drip rate (say, 10-15 drops per minute, per the manual (http://www.mastercraft.com/files/manuals/1991-1993_OwnersManual-MS210-MS240-MS240SC.pdf). The Gore-tex works well also, should last almost forever, and can be operated with a smaller drip rate - say, 1 drop per minute.

I'd go ahead and order some this winter, along with springtime supplies - impeller, etc. If your leak turns out to be something else (say, a cracked exhaust pipe, or something), you're only out a few bucks.

/frank

rholmes
11-29-2010, 09:04 AM
You'll want to check any through hull fittings. Check around the center bilge plug, the strut bolts for the shaft, the rudder, the exhaust outlets... all thouse could potentially have had the silicone shrink and shrivel and cause the leaking. How quickly does the water fill up? Are there special water pick ups for the ballast system that was added?

vshockey10
11-29-2010, 11:12 AM
You'll want to check any through hull fittings. Check around the center bilge plug, the strut bolts for the shaft, the rudder, the exhaust outlets... all thouse could potentially have had the silicone shrink and shrivel and cause the leaking. How quickly does the water fill up? Are there special water pick ups for the ballast system that was added?

no they made a T off the raw water hook up that is on the back left side of the motor. they valve was left in the open position. maybe that was the problem. found it when we were winterizing it.

I would have liked to talk to the guy that owned it before me to figure out how all this stuff worked, but we bought it from a dealer and the guy didn't know much about it

so what spring supplies do I need to buy?

the packing
impeller?
what else?

etduc
11-29-2010, 01:15 PM
no they made a T off the raw water hook up that is on the back left side of the motor. they valve was left in the open position. maybe that was the problem. found it when we were winterizing it.

I would have liked to talk to the guy that owned it before me to figure out how all this stuff worked, but we bought it from a dealer and the guy didn't know much about it
so what spring supplies do I need to buy?
the packing
impeller?
what else?

So you're saying, motor bilge was filling with water (water runs to the back of the bilge, under power), when you slowed down(or stop) water ran foward filling the ski locker? This will happen with my 205, if the ski locker stop is out. I would guess you found the problem.
Was your bilge pump, switched to automatic? Was it pumping out water?

Since you don't have a history of the boat, let's start with:
impeller- buy two,(put one in a plastic bag, and hang it from steering wheel, other is a spare) until time to install, install it when you de-winterize.
shaft packing rope- buy Gore-Tex type "Perfect Seal"
Plan on greasing: rudder shaft fitting, steering, cable (maybe replace, mine is sixteen years old), Wiggle test strut bearing. What is condition of trailer bearings, brakes?

Sure I missed something.

rholmes
11-29-2010, 03:15 PM
Yikes, that ballast system seems a little scary. Maybe someone else can chime in, but I would think that having the motor "share" duties of cooling the engine and filling the ballast might potentially starve the engine of its cooling abilities. I know you aren't filling it all the time, but if you are under power and cruising in the 2000 rpm range and trying to fill the ballast, that could divert too much water from the motor and cause damage. Again, without seeing how much ballast, if it fills up while not running, etc could be a different scenario.

Also, there could be a leak in the plumbing. If the valve is always open, it could be filling with water from a leaky fittings or crack in the ballast hosing.

vshockey10
11-30-2010, 11:00 AM
Im hoping that was the problem. that the valve right after the T was open letting water in towards the ballast system and that was leaking. The motor doesnt do all the ballast filling though I guess. There is a pump 2" down the line after the T. I know pictures would help alot here. I should have taken more when we had the boat out. Its in storage now. I think we will be going out there in a few weeks to grab a few jet skis to sell. then I can snap pictures of this whole ballast situation. Worst part is the guy didnt give me the bags!!

thanks for the list of things to do. is there any place you recommend to get all this stuff?

frosty
12-02-2010, 12:48 AM
thanks for the list of things to do. is there any place you recommend to get all this stuff?

SkiDIM.com for everything but the bags... WakeMakers.com for the ballast related items...

bturner2
12-02-2010, 08:10 AM
X2 on Wake Makers. I used Wake Makers this summer to get some parts while on vacation. These guys know their stuff and can help you get your ballast system running quickly and safely. I'd highly recommend giving them a call to straighten out your system.

vshockey10
12-06-2010, 04:03 PM
thanks guys.

has anyone fit a ballast system in these boats? my boat is set up for it just no bags now

any pics of your setups?

I am thinking in the compartment on top of the gas tank and the cooler as the lines are ran to those places already