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rjracin240
10-28-2010, 10:06 PM
Finally got a round to working on the boat.

Thought I would have an easy task of taking the old leaky manifolds off, had been oiling the bolts up for the last couple of weeks each time I heat cycled the motor. Of course Sods law came into play and the bolt under the leak had corroded down to the next size smaller. using a good 6 point socket tried breaking it loose, no luck to make a long story short after using the most conservative methods possible the bolt head appears to be beyond possible use. Contemplating grinding the head off the bolt or drilling. Not wishing this on anybody......but hoping that someone has gone through this theirselves and give me some iideas how you worked around this.

Not sure why my pictures are out of order and some of the captions dont match the picture.

62618

New Barrs manifold, any suggestions as far as using any types of gasket sealers??

The8Ball
10-29-2010, 02:30 AM
Have you tried a bolt out set? From Sears, Craftsman:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952062000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3

Product Description

All removers have external hex and internal square drive to remove stripped or rusted nuts and bolts. Includes punch. Hex sizes 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 11/16 and 3/4 in. and metric 6, 8 and 9 thru 19 mm. Wt. 2 lbs. Catalog/Online Exclusive.

Tags
10-29-2010, 02:34 AM
I'm about to attempt this as well. Im hoping like crazy that all my bolts come out easily. I'm going to start spraying inox on them now.

Craig
10-29-2010, 07:59 AM
I have used some of this product before and it works really well.

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05222-Freeze-Off-Super-Penetrant/dp/B000KKCQUW

Another option is to bust out the torch and heat it up. You have to keep repeating thermal cycles, penetrating oil, and tapping on it a bit. Eventually you will get it, the bolt may be destroyed but at least it is out.

I also second using the bolt removal devices from Sears. I have a set of those and they are pretty handy.

mayo93prostar
10-29-2010, 08:32 AM
assuming your problem is with the bolts into the engine block, I helped my neighbor on his PS205V last winter with similar problem. He removed what bolts he could and then ground the heads of the other ones off flush with the exhaust manifold. Then we used hammers and pry bars to slide the manifold off of the bolts. after the manifold is removed, you can use vise grips on the shank of the bolt and better apply penetrating oil and/or heat to get the bolt out. we hit the manifold pretty hard to jar it loose but he was also replacing the manifolds.

regarding gaskets, I definitely recommend apply some gasket sealer between the manifold and riser gasket. I did not on mine a couple years ago and they have leaked so this winter project is to redo the gaskets on the manifolds.

good luck. the key is you can remove the manifold without removing the whole bolt, just need to get the head off.

east tx skier
10-29-2010, 10:42 AM
Yeah, those allen bolts are murder. I was going to change my gaskets and got derailed messing with those things. Finally dragged my boat down to the Shell station and got them to do it for me after days of frustration. I think it cost me $35 and they changed the gaskets.

rjracin240
10-29-2010, 11:37 AM
Yeah, those allen bolts are murder. I was going to change my gaskets and got derailed messing with those things. Finally dragged my boat down to the Shell station and got them to do it for me after days of frustration. I think it cost me $35 and they changed the gaskets.

Allen bolt was not the one that stripped, just put the picture in there so people could see how I worked around the clearance issue. You could use either a torque adapter as pictured or just a regular 5/16" combo wrench. Guess I should be thankful it was not one of the allen bolts with limited clearance that would plain suck!

Thrall
10-29-2010, 02:14 PM
Yeah, cut the head off and deal with it after the manifold's off. Heat up the head real good (acy/oxy torch or maybe mapp gas will do it), not the bolt, and it should come out pretty easy.

rjracin240
10-30-2010, 10:08 AM
Yeah, cut the head off and deal with it after the manifold's off. Heat up the head real good (acy/oxy torch or maybe mapp gas will do it), not the bolt, and it should come out pretty easy.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions will follow your sugestion for cutting off the head and then dealing with penetrating oil, heat and hopefully a vice grip on the shank of the bolt will do it.

Anyone have any feedback/thoughts on the water inlet fitting on the front. They appear to be plastic any suggestions on how to succesfully get them out and wether it is advisable to reuse them if they come out in good shape. Any suggestions on a source of supply for either a brass replacement or stainless?

Table Rocker
10-30-2010, 11:15 AM
Don't forget to brush a little anti-seize on those bolts during re-installation to make future work less frustrating. Permatex makes one containing copper that I have had good results with.

You shouldn't have too much trouble replacing the hose fitting. If you can't find one at a local plumbing supply, West Marine has them.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=95226&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=10106&subdeptNum=10443&classNum=10446

Cloaked
10-30-2010, 12:51 PM
Thanks everyone for the suggestions will follow your sugestion for cutting off the head and then dealing with penetrating oil, heat and hopefully a vice grip on the shank of the bolt will do it.

Anyone have any feedback/thoughts on the water inlet fitting on the front. They appear to be plastic any suggestions on how to succesfully get them out and wether it is advisable to reuse them if they come out in good shape. Any suggestions on a source of supply for either a brass replacement or stainless?http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=R024006A

http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=60-5008


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TX.X-30 fan
10-30-2010, 01:27 PM
http://www.lego.com/en-us/Default.aspx

TX.X-30 fan
10-30-2010, 01:29 PM
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62649

JLeuck64
10-30-2010, 01:32 PM
When I replaced my riser gaskets I put some aviation form-a-gasket on the metal surfacesa to help seal some minor pitting that had developed. Since you are installing a new manifold that machined surface should be perfectly flat already... Since you are reusing the riser, I would consider having the old riser gasket surface machined flat again if there was noticeable pitting or erosion.

MariStar-Man
10-30-2010, 01:54 PM
Wow, those are some great ideas... Resurfacing, Gasket seal...

It makes me want to rebuild my engine to look like East Tx's....:D

1990lmtd
10-30-2010, 09:42 PM
As far as the water inlets, my boat is 20 years old and I was able to get them out with relative ease using a box end wrench. (The open end started to round the hex) Very slow and persistant pressure and they were fine and reusable. I had to do it, I didn't realize until the Sunday that I was finishing the engine and doing the final touches that the inlets that I had gotten were too small for the hoses to clamp down on. But one season in the books with them and not a drip (knock on wood stringers) Good luck and keep us posted.

mpm32
11-01-2010, 11:28 AM
Don't forget to brush a little anti-seize on those bolts during re-installation to make future work less frustrating. Permatex makes one containing copper that I have had good results with.

You shouldn't have too much trouble replacing the hose fitting. If you can't find one at a local plumbing supply, West Marine has them.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=95226&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=10106&subdeptNum=10443&classNum=10446

No anti-seize and in a pinch. Use Malox - it works.

rjracin240
11-01-2010, 12:55 PM
No anti-seize and in a pinch. Use Malox - it works.

It is surprising how good that works we would use Milk Of Magnesia on the hardware when assembling the hot section of the T-58's we would rebuild, thanks for the tip and refreshing my memory on that.

Had hoped to get around to working on it this last weekend, but had to replace CV/Axle on the commuter car after church and ran out of time and Saturday was spent working on the 2XWide so I can get it rented!

As soon as I get it done will post some pic's and a brief on how I got the bolt out