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Monteluna
10-20-2010, 04:35 PM
I am getting my new (to me) boat delivered on Sunday. It's a 1994 Prostar 205. We bought a home on a lake this summer and it has a nice dock (right out the back door) with a EconoLift boat lift. The previous owners used it to hoist their bass boat, so I am going to have to adjust the rails on the lift to accommodate the hull of the Mastercraft. I contacted the lift maker and they already advised that I will need to raise the rails due to the fins, prop and rudder. I am going to order those parts here soon. The question I have is how do I find the spacing for the rails to best support the boat? Any advice on how to get the proper angle as well?

Thanks!

Bouyhead
10-20-2010, 05:09 PM
Is the boat being delivered on a Mastercraft trailer? If it is the bunk spacing on the trailer would be a good place to start. Good luck with your new boat.

BROUSSARD
10-20-2010, 05:10 PM
I am getting my new (to me) boat delivered on Sunday. It's a 1994 Prostar 205. We bought a home on a lake this summer and it has a nice dock (right out the back door) with a EconoLift boat lift. The previous owners used it to hoist their bass boat, so I am going to have to adjust the rails on the lift to accommodate the hull of the Mastercraft. I contacted the lift maker and they already advised that I will need to raise the rails due to the fins, prop and rudder. I am going to order those parts here soon. The question I have is how do I find the spacing for the rails to best support the boat? Any advice on how to get the proper angle as well?

Thanks!

To get the correct angle use your trailer bunk angle, or http://www.mastercraft.com/market/showproduct.php?product=3320

JDK
10-20-2010, 10:25 PM
how do I find the spacing for the rails to best support the boat? Any advice on how to get the proper angle as well?

Thanks!

When your new boat arrives, lift the doghouse and measure the distance between the main stringer centers. This will be about the best bunk spacing....and it's narrower that you will probably expect.
The bunks will need a 'twist' in them because the back of the boat is almost flat, and as you move forward the V in the hull becomes a.parent. I left the bunk 'joints' loose until I lifted the boat the first time.... then I tightened down the joints. The bunks twisted from front to back pretty much perfectly.

east tx skier
10-21-2010, 11:17 AM
Do it like this. :) Measured off the trailer bunks. Make sure you get the right twist. Stacked the boards 2x for added strength.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_1gl9obJSimU/TBo_jpRBTGI/AAAAAAAADAA/wttadi88AXU/Boat%20on%20Lift.jpg

Miss Rita
10-21-2010, 11:35 AM
I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I have a friend with an '89 ProStar 190 who stores his boat all summer hanging from the lifting rings. I also remember going to the Cypress Gardens ski show in 1985 and their ProStars were also left hanging from cables without any bunk support.

What's the latest thinking on this?

Jim@BAWS
10-21-2010, 11:40 AM
I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I have a friend with an '89 ProStar 190 who stores his boat all summer hanging from the lifting rings. I also remember going to the Cypress Gardens ski show in 1985 and their ProStars were also left hanging from cables without any bunk support.

What's the latest thinking on this?

BAD ANSWER WRONG WRONG WRONG !!!

The Storage at the gardens was CUT MasterCraft Trailers that where hung from cables and
adjusted on the front

The boat themselves where in cradles

Jim@BAWS

Miss Rita
10-21-2010, 01:48 PM
Sor-ry! Hey, it was a long time ago.

To state the obvious: long term storage hanging from the lifting rings is a bad idea?

CantRepeat
10-21-2010, 02:07 PM
Sor-ry! Hey, it was a long time ago.

To state the obvious: long term storage hanging from the lifting rings is a bad idea?

The ring on the back of my 92 has a sticker that says: CAUTION Lifting rings are not designed for long periods of suspension.

I assume this means do not store the boat with these rings.

east tx skier
10-21-2010, 05:05 PM
I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I have a friend with an '89 ProStar 190 who stores his boat all summer hanging from the lifting rings. I also remember going to the Cypress Gardens ski show in 1985 and their ProStars were also left hanging from cables without any bunk support.

What's the latest thinking on this?

The only tournament boat you can do this with as far as I know is Correct Craft. With MC, the rings are only designed for temporary lifting.

etduc
10-21-2010, 05:31 PM
Sor-ry! Hey, it was a long time ago.

To state the obvious: long term storage hanging from the lifting rings is a bad idea?

lbs per square inch. Just more square inchs, with a craddle system.(2"x6"x96" times 2) Less lbs per square inch. Plus, craddle would be perpendicular to hull stringers.

Joseph
10-21-2010, 11:52 PM
word of caution. might want to make sure your bunks in the back are wide enough that if your backing out and your boat goes all the way to one side, your prop won't hit the boards. Wish someone would have told me that one!

Jim@BAWS
10-22-2010, 08:11 AM
[QUOTE=Miss Rita;715205]Sor-ry! Hey, it was a long time ago.

To state the obvious: long term storage hanging from the lifting rings is a bad idea?[/QUOTE


Yes that is GOOD advise

Ben
10-22-2010, 08:48 AM
I am getting my new (to me) boat delivered on Sunday. It's a 1994 Prostar 205. We bought a home on a lake this summer and it has a nice dock (right out the back door) with a EconoLift boat lift. The previous owners used it to hoist their bass boat, so I am going to have to adjust the rails on the lift to accommodate the hull of the Mastercraft. I contacted the lift maker and they already advised that I will need to raise the rails due to the fins, prop and rudder. I am going to order those parts here soon. The question I have is how do I find the spacing for the rails to best support the boat? Any advice on how to get the proper angle as well?

Thanks!

I think my bunks are set at approx. 42" in the front and 44" in the rear. I think this was close to the trailer, without hitting the hull strakes. You need about 7" from the top of the bunk to the top of the crossbar of the front cradle to clear the "V" in the hull. Same hull btw.

kyfooter
10-22-2010, 09:05 AM
I've made several cradles over the years, and I'm pretty particular about spacing and angles on my cradle being identical to my trailer. That being said, as stated take as many measurements as you can off your existing trailer. Then, for the angle use a pivot bracket on your bunks so as long as you're close, the bunk itself will adjust to your hull.

By pivot bracket, I mean a piece of angle iron drilled for 3/4" bolt (stainless) which connects into your vertical bracket off your cradle frame. Attaching your bunk to the angle iron with the bolt as your pivot point will allow your bunks to contour to your boat. Might need to soak them for a while though to make sure the boards twist as needed. Snug the bolts, but not too tight to allow them to move slightly the first time you lift.

If you don't want to make your brackets, Bass Pro sells them.

Monteluna
10-22-2010, 03:40 PM
. Then, for the angle use a pivot bracket on your bunks so as long as you're close, the bunk itself will adjust to your hull.

By pivot bracket, I mean a piece of angle iron drilled for 3/4" bolt (stainless) which connects into your vertical bracket off your cradle frame. Attaching your bunk to the angle iron with the bolt as your pivot point will allow your bunks to contour to your boat. Might need to soak them for a while though to make sure the boards twist as needed. Snug the bolts, but not too tight to allow them to move slightly the first time you lift.

If you don't want to make your brackets, Bass Pro sells them.

I discovered today that my bunk rails are set by the previous owner to automatically swivel and thus contour to the shape of the hull. Do I need to tighten those down to ensure they stay in the same position, or do I leave them to always pivot?

Also, can anyone tell me where the center point of weight distribution is on the 1994 PS205? I'm also concerned that I may need to move the entire lift back in my dock bay. The center of weight will help me determine this.

Thanks for all of the help.

Miss Rita
10-22-2010, 04:48 PM
Also, can anyone tell me where the center point of weight distribution is on the 1994 PS205?

It's simplest to look at how the boat sits on the trailer. The CG would be about 10" forward of the axle(s) on the trailer. It's going to vary slightly dependent on how you store stuff and fuel load.

Joseph
10-22-2010, 06:27 PM
my lift bunks swivel or pivot also. i wouldn't tighten them because you won't always have the boat in exactly the same position. the pivot lets the 2x4 roll to adjust to the angle of the hull. just my 2cents but kyfooter sounds like more of an expert.

Ben
10-22-2010, 10:28 PM
Also, can anyone tell me where the center point of weight distribution is on the 1994 PS205?
Thanks for all of the help.

I don't know for a fact, but I usually line up the observer seat back with the corner post and it seems to be relatively balanced. So 1/2 the length of a std lift back from that point would be my guess.

jomiddour
10-23-2010, 11:02 AM
FWIW; My aunt and uncle had an 89' or 90' prostar stored from the lifting rings for ten years plus and never had any issues. Having read all of the advise I would never do it with my boat but just saying.

Barefooter92
10-25-2010, 01:17 PM
I have a PS 205 '97 and a shore station flat bottom cradle. My bunks are two treated 2x4" screwed every 6" alternating sides so they flex. The 2x's are standing up. The bunks are straight flat and 30" center to center based on center of the boat. My height is set just one inch clear on the skags. I started high and used a string line to find the final dimension, then dropped my clamps to bring the boat down, so I could limit the depth of water needed to float the boat. I did not make provisons for the prop to come clean over the cradle. Personal preference. I just told the wife it will be $1,000.00 damage if she rides up and over the lift.