View Full Version : Buying my 1st Mastercraft- Mechanic Check -What do I want to ask Please
10-08-2010, 10:24 PM
Hello To All.
I am about to purchase a 2000 Maristar 230 VRS 330 HP. (500 hours) (Cost is 21k) I posted pictures in my only other thread.
The seller has agreed to have a full diagnostic by a reputable mechanic. He will pay for anything that needs attention, or needs replacement. I will be with the mechanic (He and I) during the inspection.
Please list out what I need for him to specifically look for and questions I need to ask.
I have been on the boat 2 times Driving it myself both times. I have found two issues.
1. The depth finder blinks whenever we go more than about 15 miles an hour
2. The speedometer does not work
I hear a bit of a "turbo" sound when hitting the throttle hard. The seller said that is a common sound due to the air filter being medal and not paper. It is sucking the air in and is completely normal. It was not a bad or very loud sound and the engine is very smooth.
The one thing I am a bit concerned about is that there are not many service records. However the Boat is in meticulous condition. I am amazed actually that it is 10 yrs old.
Please give me any advice you can
10-08-2010, 11:37 PM
As far as the "turbo" sound, I think that is characteristic of LTR engines and the way the air sucked through the flame arrestor. Mine sounds like a high pitched whine. Can't help with the other questions.
10-09-2010, 01:28 AM
1. Compression check - all cylinders should be within 10% of each other. Check the plugs while you have them out for any signs of water - this might indicate a cracked head or leaking head gasket, likely due to poor winterization.
2. Check the fluids - engine, transmission, and V-Drive oil - for any signs of water. Suck up oil from the bottom of the case for this. Check the levels - any that are low might indicate a leak (when my transmission cooler broke; I didn't get any water in the transmission - but I sure lost a lot of fluid).
Those are the big-ticket items.
3. Check all the gauges, and all the lights - dash, nav (red/green on the bow) and anchor (all-around white light on the stern). Fuel gauges tend to be a problem - it's normally a failure of the fuel sender in the tank; not a big deal to fix.
4. Check the driveshaft alignment - procedure is in the owner's manual. Check for major bends in the strut or driveshaft by grabbing the prop and trying to turn it (engine off, please). An excellent result (which you won't have) is being able to turn it with one finger; a normal result is needing a good grip with one hand. If it takes two hands, or if the driveshaft hits the side of the shaft log (the hole where it goes through the hull), you need an inspection concentrating on the strut and driveshaft. Bends in these components (from hitting something) aren't always obvious. While you're there, check the condition of the prop - small (+/- 1/4 inch) dings are probably to be expected. Any more than that, and you'll need to ask for a prop repair - about $150.
5. Check the vinyl, carpet, gel coat (especially on the keel under the bow). Most problems here are pretty obvious.
6. Check the drip rate through the shaft packing, unless it has a dripless seal. The owners manual tells you how.
The depth gauge may be something you have to live with; you can try checking all the connections, but if there's something wrong, it's probably the transducer puck in the bilge has come slightly loose from the hull. There's a specific technique to epoxying it back down. It may also be expected and unfixable, depending on where the transducer is located relative to any airstreams under the boat.
The speedo should be easy; depending on the pickup type, it's probably just a disconnected wire.
That'd be about my list. You've already driven it, so few of the major problems are likely (and, yes, the turbo sound is normal).
Then, go out and have some fun. It's a ten-year old boat, so you're still going to have some minor issues; expect them, and just keep grinning.
10-09-2010, 03:28 AM
Verify the check engine light operation. Should light when key is turned on once started should go out. Was a problem with some years. my 1999 had this problem and still does as it is a problem in the loom between the ECM and diagnostic connector. My loom will come apart this winter. Several posts about this topic. http://www.mastercraftboats.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=35009
Check trailer for rust especially inside the tubes if it has the swing away tounge.
Steering should be very smooth. Hard to turn would be an indication of a failing steering cable.
Frank has covered everything else.
10-09-2010, 07:57 AM
Guys. Thank you so very much. I appreciate all the help. He just replaced the water pump in march Other than that he says only routine maintenance. I will go through all that you outlined.
10-09-2010, 04:38 PM
have a look at this, it might be helpful