PDA

View Full Version : First Time Winterizing 82' S&S.


OldGlory
09-30-2010, 04:41 PM
Apologies up front: new to TT

I have read all of the threads in this forum and got a little :confused:, so I need some specific (82' 351w, PowerSlot) winterizing tips/how to's. I am new to the maintenance on her. A family friend (boat shop owner) would have helped/guided me this, but he has moved on to a better place...it's all on me now :eek: All help will be greatly appreciated!

JJ

flipper
09-30-2010, 05:03 PM
What part are you :confused: about?

OldGlory
09-30-2010, 05:38 PM
What part are you :confused: about?
For one, how do I change the oil (42 hrs this summer)? There's only one "boat shop" in my town that quoted me $190+tax to change the oil/winterize an inboard. There is a certified MC shop about 50 miles away that quoted me $140+tax plus add in gas there and back twice = $220. Dang rapist...I would much rather learn to do it myself the first time, so I know TLC was given.

flipper
09-30-2010, 05:45 PM
Easy, look in Overtons, West Marine, Barts, etc for an oil pump. I like the drill pumps. They are cheap, quick, and easy. Stick the tube down the dip stick tube, suck the oil out, change the filter, put new in, drink another beer

flipper
09-30-2010, 05:46 PM
This is the one I have. Napa has them too, and most other auto parts stores

http://www.amazon.com/Shurflo-Drill-Pump-Oil-Changer/dp/B00144CU18

Slinkyredfoot
09-30-2010, 05:56 PM
Does your boat not have an oil drain plug at the center bottom of the transom?

OldGlory
09-30-2010, 06:04 PM
Does your boat not have an oil drain plug at the center bottom of the transom?
Would it be near the drain plug?

Slinkyredfoot
09-30-2010, 06:10 PM
Not sure if the 82 has one or not, here is a pic of mine

Slinkyredfoot
09-30-2010, 06:11 PM
sorry forgot to upload

OldGlory
09-30-2010, 06:14 PM
sorry forgot to upload
I don't believe there are two plugs, will check tonight!

OldGlory
09-30-2010, 06:15 PM
Does anyone know where to hook up the water hose for land running?

Thanks, JJ

flipper
09-30-2010, 06:28 PM
Look under the boat and you'll see a brass inlet to put a fake a lake on

OldGlory
09-30-2010, 07:27 PM
Look under the boat and you'll see a brass inlet to put a fake a lake on
Okay, once I warm the engine and change the oil, should I go straight into flushing the system?

Flushing: with the fake a lake on and engine running, all I need to do is disconnect the hose on the manifold to add anti-freeze (RV-50) to the intake and wait until pink fluid comes out the exhaust?

OldGlory
09-30-2010, 07:28 PM
Man I feel ignorant about all of this...

flipper
09-30-2010, 07:30 PM
Personally, I wouldn't bother with the antifreeze up to you. Put it in, the drain the block. Take the two petcocks all the way out. I take all the lowest hoses off to to be sure. Drain the exhaust manifolds too.

OldGlory
09-30-2010, 07:37 PM
Personally, I wouldn't bother with the antifreeze up to you. Put it in, the drain the block. Take the two petcocks all the way out. I take all the lowest hoses off to to be sure. Drain the exhaust manifolds too.
So just staight water flush?

flipper
09-30-2010, 07:48 PM
That's what I do. Run it with water to get it warm, change the oil, drain all the water out of the bock, shower if you have one, heater if you have one...

OldGlory
09-30-2010, 07:54 PM
Then beer, or beer in hand all the way?

flipper
09-30-2010, 07:57 PM
I prefer beer in hand all the way.

Slinkyredfoot
09-30-2010, 08:17 PM
Man I feel ignorant about all of this...

Don't feel ignorant dude you are just trying to learn and save yourself a few bucks, nothing wrong with this idea.

I have owned a 79 with a 351 for 30 years, winterizing is very easy if you have a lttle mechanical savvy and I will only charge you half for what the marinas want.

I take the boat to the ramp and take it out, I do not flush jsut drain. On a 351 there typically 5 drain plugs that need to be removed, 2 at the back of each exhaust header, on mine I remove these with a 1/2 drive ratchet and drain, and additional two drain plugs on either side of the block, these typically can be removed with a 1/2" to 9/16" box end wrench, remove and drain. The last or 5th drain plug on my boat is located under the lowest metal elbow that feeds water to the block from the raw water pump in the front of the motor, if you have this remove and drain. If you do not use antifreeze, leave the plugs out, in the spring you will want to apply some pipe dope to their threads when you reinstall. I always change my oil at the end of the season and loosen my drive belts as well.

I'm with Flipper I do not mess with antifreeze, but these is a debatable topic, and like Flipper also stated, remove some of the lower hoses and let the water drain from these. The main water feed hose will attach to you tranny cooler, a smaller cylinderical tube located failry close to your transmission, remove this and check the intake for weeds or what ever might obstruct water flow to the motor if there is anything.

Disconnect the battery and take it inside if you want or not, clean the boat up, cover it and you are pretty much done in my estimation, hope I have not forgotten anything.

I have a complete origianal 351 engine manual for my 79 wtih wonderful instructions and how to pictures. PM me with your address and I will send you a copy.

Cloaked
09-30-2010, 08:36 PM
There are 5 plugs that need attention. Two on the block, two on manifolds (one each), and one on the underside of the J-tube. Also disconnect three hose ends to drain low standing water.

dgilbreath
09-30-2010, 11:29 PM
My boat is 4 years newer (86) but I top off the tank with gas including stablizer. I fog the carb until it stalls. Then I plug the plugs and fog the cylinders. Reinstall the plugs. Drain the cocks on the side of blocks and drain the mainfolds. I unhook the hoses and drain. Re-attach them. I spray WD-40 on the chrome parts(wipe off in the spring). Pull battery, cover and leave wait until spring.

OldGlory
10-01-2010, 10:33 AM
Thanks for all of the input. I can probably manage now without damaging anything too bad. BTW what is fogging the carb? Is it carb cleaner? Also, when everthing is draining, does it drain into the bildge and out the rear?

flipper
10-01-2010, 11:04 AM
There is stuff called fogging oil you can buy. Yes, the water will drain out the bottom of the boat.

flipper
10-01-2010, 11:06 AM
I was thinking you had already read this thread, but I'm thinking maybe not. Read through it and it will answer a lot of questions.

http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=103139&postcount=6

thatsmrmastercraft
10-01-2010, 12:03 PM
Another thing to remember is when you add fuel stabilizer to at least run the engine in the driveway for 10 - 15 minutes to make sure that the stabilizer makes it into the carb. Better yet to run the stabilizer the last couple times you use the boat to make sure you are covered.

east tx skier
10-01-2010, 12:07 PM
Here's a checklist (http://www.tylerskiclub.com/winterization.html) that you can use. If you add antifreeze, you should drain the block first. On your PCM engine, you can add antifreeze by removing the hose going to the thermostat, stuffing a funnel in it, raising it as high as it will go, and pouring about 3 gallons of RV antifreeze into the funnel. Also, there should be a plug underneath the j-tube by the water pump.

OldGlory
10-01-2010, 12:27 PM
I was thinking you had already read this thread, but I'm thinking maybe not. Read through it and it will answer a lot of questions.

http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=103139&postcount=6
Could not find them...thanks!

OldGlory
10-01-2010, 12:41 PM
Here's a checklist (http://www.tylerskiclub.com/winterization.html) that you can use. If you add antifreeze, you should drain the block first. On your PCM engine, you can add antifreeze by removing the hose going to the thermostat, stuffing a funnel in it, raising it as high as it will go, and pouring about 3 gallons of RV antifreeze into the funnel. Also, there should be a plug underneath the j-tube by the water pump.
Where would I find the Impeller? And do I need a speciall tool for removal/installation?

east tx skier
10-01-2010, 12:59 PM
The impeller is in the pump housing on the front, starboard side of your PCM Ford. The impeller you have pictured will not work on a PCM Ford used in 82. You would probably want this one (http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RP061015).

OldGlory
10-01-2010, 01:05 PM
The impeller is in the pump housing on the front, starboard side of your PCM Ford. The impeller you have pictured will not work on a PCM Ford used in 82. You would probably want this one (http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RP061015).
Impeller pictured was the hyperlinked one on the checklist (TylerSkiClub) for the PCM...

If I remove the pump housing, I am guessing there is a gasket I have to replace right?

cbryan70
10-01-2010, 01:27 PM
i drain the oil out the way flipper described it takes forever draining the oil through the hose in the back of the boat. I take off the hose. probably going to be on the left side rear of the motor if you are looking towards the bow of the boat. there will be a small muffler looking thing that a hose goes in. I throw a garden hose in that and run the boat up to temp. once its at temp i start throwing antifreeze in while its running. about 4 gallons will do it. I usually throw two buckets in the back of the boat to collect the antifreeze and run that through a few times then end with a fresh gallon of antifreeze done deal. after that i change the oil while its warm

OldGlory
10-01-2010, 01:51 PM
Do I have this right?

east tx skier
10-01-2010, 03:50 PM
Impeller pictured was the hyperlinked one on the checklist (TylerSkiClub) for the PCM...

If I remove the pump housing, I am guessing there is a gasket I have to replace right?

Check again. I just went to the website and clicked the PCM impeller link and the Indmar link. The picture you linked is for the Indmar. The one for PCM on the Tyler Ski Club is a dead link (sorry for the dead link, will try to remember to update that hyperlink later). That Johnson 812 you linked is for the Indmar and will not work on your boat.

You basically need to remove the pump housing. Mark its orientation so you don't reinstall upside-down. Pull the housing apart and there may be a plate sandwiched in between. Either way, you will see the indention where the little black gasket goes between the two parts of the housing. It seems a little more daunting removing the pump housing the first time you do it. But when you don't have to work too hard to get the impeller out, you don't mind so much.

Here's an article (http://aquaskier.com/articles/impeller_replacement.htm) that will walk you through it (with pictures).

As for plugs. Also check the bottom of the j-tube at the front of your motor.

OldGlory
10-01-2010, 05:08 PM
Check again. I just went to the website and clicked the PCM impeller link and the Indmar link. The picture you linked is for the Indmar. The one for PCM on the Tyler Ski Club is a dead link (sorry for the dead link, will try to remember to update that hyperlink later). That Johnson 812 you linked is for the Indmar and will not work on your boat.

You basically need to remove the pump housing. Mark its orientation so you don't reinstall upside-down. Pull the housing apart and there may be a plate sandwiched in between. Either way, you will see the indention where the little black gasket goes between the two parts of the housing. It seems a little more daunting removing the pump housing the first time you do it. But when you don't have to work too hard to get the impeller out, you don't mind so much.

Here's an article (http://aquaskier.com/articles/impeller_replacement.htm) that will walk you through it (with pictures).

As for plugs. Also check the bottom of the j-tube at the front of your motor.
Right on, I ordered two RP061015 PCM Impeller Kits for skidim.

ctjahn
10-20-2010, 06:21 AM
Check again. I just went to the website and clicked the PCM impeller link and the Indmar link. The picture you linked is for the Indmar. The one for PCM on the Tyler Ski Club is a dead link (sorry for the dead link, will try to remember to update that hyperlink later). That Johnson 812 you linked is for the Indmar and will not work on your boat.

You basically need to remove the pump housing. Mark its orientation so you don't reinstall upside-down. Pull the housing apart and there may be a plate sandwiched in between. Either way, you will see the indention where the little black gasket goes between the two parts of the housing. It seems a little more daunting removing the pump housing the first time you do it. But when you don't have to work too hard to get the impeller out, you don't mind so much.

Here's an article (http://aquaskier.com/articles/impeller_replacement.htm) that will walk you through it (with pictures).

As for plugs. Also check the bottom of the j-tube at the front of your motor.

Stumbled across this thread while searching about impellers... *sorry to butt in and thread jack....* While reading the forums I got the impression that this is done annually by some people? Why? My boat appears to suck water effectively...

I didnt inspect as a part of winterization. Boat is new to me. Should I check it out to be safe? (reminder 78 mc s&s)

Good stuff ETxskier Thx
Cj

MattsCraft
10-20-2010, 10:51 AM
Apologies up front: new to TT

I have read all of the threads in this forum and got a little :confused:, so I need some specific (82' 351w, PowerSlot) winterizing tips/how to's. I am new to the maintenance on her. A family friend (boat shop owner) would have helped/guided me this, but he has moved on to a better place...it's all on me now :eek: All help will be greatly appreciated!

JJ

I read through all of these posts and with some of the questions asked, I would suggest this! Keep in mind, I winterize/change oil myself, however not to save money, I like to work on my boat, still change my own oil on my vehicles etc.

I, personally, would not recommend this job for someone that does not know how to do it or does not have someone that can face to face walk you through it the first time. Way too many things can go wrong if not done correctly, worst of which is a cracked block etc. etc. etc. For $140, to $200 it is peace of mind that an experienced tech has done the work and a dealer that carries the responsibility.

Keep in mind the cost of supplies you will spend at least $100 to $200 for oil, filter, raw water impeller, anti freeze, (if you use it) fuel treatment, fogging oil. Of course these costs are varied depending on where and how you shop, internet, local marina etc. For me, I have to go to 4 places for supplies, Sams for oil (3 Gallons, saves about $9:rolleyes:), Napa for the filter, local Marina for anti-freeze fuel treatment etc. and Skidim for the impeller. (saves $15) By the way, maybe it was out last year and I missed it, but I purchased fuel treatment with fogging oil in it!

Add to this what you don't have for the first time, Oil pump, $20 for a worthless hand pump:mad: to $160 for a nice self priming motorized pump, Fake a lake or flush kit of some type, oil drain kit, the list goes on.

With all of the stuff I have purchased, maybe on year 4 or 5 I am at even money but like anything my opinion only, I spend an entire day doing the job, to save money, no friggin way, I enjoy it, I like working on the boat, far better than working on a car, but as I said in the beginning, no way is this a novice job!

03geetee
10-20-2010, 10:53 AM
Stumbled across this thread while searching about impellers... *sorry to butt in and thread jack....* While reading the forums I got the impression that this is done annually by some people? Why? My boat appears to suck water effectively...

I didnt inspect as a part of winterization. Boat is new to me. Should I check it out to be safe? (reminder 78 mc s&s)

Good stuff ETxskier Thx
Cj

Yes you should replace it in the spring as it is a wear type item that will break down gradually, something you dont want because the pieces then go into your engine where they dont belong. Also besides the fact that this little guy can ruin a weekend if it goes it is very cheap to replace it yearly and keep the last one you took out as a spare on the boat.

The last reason you want to change it is that is sits in a non perfect circle in the pump housing which since it is not rotating will deform to that shape and start to dry out since no water is running through it. Just replace it come spring and follow the directions if you have done it once you can do it a 1000 times.

Just keep the tools to change one out on the water in your boat along with the extra so you can get back to shore if it ever blows!

JTR

ctjahn
10-20-2010, 10:57 AM
Yes you should replace it in the spring as it is a wear type item that will break down gradually, something you dont want because the pieces then go into your engine where they dont belong. Also besides the fact that this little guy can ruin a weekend if it goes it is very cheap to replace it yearly and keep the last one you took out as a spare on the boat.

The last reason you want to change it is that is sits in a non perfect circle in the pump housing which since it is not rotating will deform to that shape and start to dry out since no water is running through it. Just replace it come spring and follow the directions if you have done it once you can do it a 1000 times.

Just keep the tools to change one out on the water in your boat along with the extra so you can get back to shore if it ever blows!

JTR

THX 03GeeTee!

Anyone have the part number? (78 s&s 351)
Doesnt look that hard...
cj

03geetee
10-20-2010, 11:01 AM
THX 03GeeTee!

Anyone have the part number? (78 s&s 351)
Doesnt look that hard...
cj

Just call Skimdim I ordered theres online if you want that route, very easy to find and lists what gasket you should order as well if you need one. Came in 2 days.

JTR

east tx skier
10-20-2010, 11:03 AM
THX 03GeeTee!

Anyone have the part number? (78 s&s 351)
Doesnt look that hard...
cj

Assuming it's a PCM Ford.

Link (http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RP061015)

thatsmrmastercraft
10-20-2010, 11:23 AM
THX 03GeeTee!

Anyone have the part number? (78 s&s 351)
Doesnt look that hard...
cj

Don't forget to consider your local Mastercraft Dealer. When I got my MC I went there (Midwest Mastercraft - Crystal, MN) for a few small things and have become sold on their customer service. They know who I am when I walk in the door, and take the time to make sure I get what I need. They stock the impeller for my '77.

TMI
10-20-2010, 11:33 AM
I don't believe there are two plugs, will check tonight!
I have 2 on my 83' S&S.

Wrench27
11-05-2010, 11:48 PM
what you want to do, is the following...
get a 1" hose, that you can slide over the transmission cooler. remove the hose that comes from the bottom of the boat, slip your "dummy" hose over the trans cooler. put a garden hose in the dummy hose, and start boat, with water running from the garden hose. add stabil to fuel tank. Make sure that you use the ethonal treatment. let boat run up to temp. shut it off change your oil. then run it again with the water. then once boat is up to temp again, if had cooled while changing the oil, remove the hose and pour in 1 gallon of antifreeze while the engine is running. as your pouring in the antifreeze into your "dummy hose" spray fogging oil into the carb. once gallon is empty, shut off boat. remove the 2 block plugs, and the 2 exhaust manifold plugs and let it drain. leave them out for the winter. reconnect the hose to the trans cooler. put the plugs in a baggie, and leave in boat along with the center drain plug. then in the spring, put some antisieze on them and put them in the block. tools required. 5/16" nut driver, 9/16" wrench, 11/16" wrench. depending on what style exhaust manifold plugs you have it will either be a 1/2" drive ratchet, or a 9/16" allen wrench, or a 5/8" wrench.... 7/16" wrench to remove the flame arrestor. so you can spray fogging oil directly into carb.