change oil now, or wait

[djkslc]

I have about 65 hours since the last oil change. I still have a few more (maybe 15) hours left in me this year. Should I change the oil now and winterize it with 15 hours on the oil, or wait 15 hours and change oil and winterize all at the same time?

[Covi]

I say wait, do it all at the same time.

[TXMC-06X2]

I would wait so you have a fresh oil change to start nxt season

[Yellow X9]

I do mine in the Spring, along with a new impeller

[1redTA]

I don't like leaving "old" oil in the engine. old oil is acidic

[Miss Rita]

Oil is pretty tough, you can get another 15 hours out of yours. I'd finish out the season, change the oil, then put your baby to bed with nice clean lube for the off-season.

I don't know why anyone would leave used oil, with all the acids and contaminants, in their engine all winter.

[east tx skier]

Just wait. You don't want to leave used oil in all winter.

[oldairboater]

Like the others leave old oil to finish the season unless you have got the engine hot. Change before winterizing.

[east tx skier]

Or unless you're putting a lot of hours on it. Oil Change every 50 hours unless, in your case, you'll finish the season with 65. :)

[trickskier]

You should have already changed it 15 hours ago --- 8p

[KHall]

Change oil before storage. Used oil is acidic. 15 hrs is probably not really used.
I would prob just run it change at storage time.

[MariStar-Man]

I was told that if you live in warmer areas like California, that dont freeze, You only need to start it once a month and that changing oil was not needed...?

I would just assume to change it to be safe, but that's what a Dealer told me...

[JMann]

You mean because I live in Cal I never have to change my oil?

Does that go for your cars too?

The money I have wasted

[MariStar-Man]

OOPs, I meant to say that it wasn't needed to change oil every year...He told me that every 2 to 3 yrs would be fine...

[swatguy]

2-3 years on oil? I def would find a new dealer after that statement. I will stick to 50hrs or once a year and advise others to do the same


To answer the original question,,,,,,,just wait and change it before you store it. 15hrs is minimal

[CantRepeat]

End of the year will be fine.

[MariStar-Man]

The secret to prolonging the life of a four-stroke marine engine is common-sense simple: Change the crankcase oil regularly, keep the ignition system in tune, and monitor the cooling system. If you follow these three rules, your outboard motor, stern drive or inboard gas or diesel will grow old gracefully. On the other hand, should you neglect to maintain these systems the odds are good that your engine's health will suffer, and its lifespan will consequently be shortened.

The health of an inboard's lubricant is critical, because marine power plants run hotter than their automotive counterparts. They also work much harder. They're either idling dockside or under constant load. Offshore, there are no hills to coast down. Even when trolling or transiting a no-wake zone, a marine engine has its nose to the veritable grindstone.

Ambient air temperature in marine engine compartments is higher than the temperature of the air surrounding an automotive engine. All this heat and hard work combine to push marine engine oil to the edge of the envelope. In fact, marine engines are like mini-oil refineries, cooking off a lubricant's lighter molecules and leaving behind the heavier molecules. As the engine logs hours, its oil transforms into a sticky varnish--which is why oil changes are so vital.

Oil changes exchange varnish-laden oil with fresh oil. When oil changes are neglected, varnish begins to build up on the piston rings and valve stems, causing them to stick. When valves stick, the affected cylinder loses power. When piston rings stick, they no longer press tightly against the cylinder walls, but remain lodged motionless in their lands, no longer able to scrape excess oil off the cylinder walls and dump it back into the sump. Instead, they pump an excessive amount of oil into the combustion chamber, where it burns and creates carbon that adheres to valve stems, piston tops and rings.

Visible only as smoke, this abrasive oil-based carbon accelerates wear on whatever critical surfaces it touches. The bearings wear and splash more oil onto the cylinder wall than the oil-control rings can scrape away. Excess oil is sucked up into the combustion chamber and makes for a smoky engine.

Oil fouls the spark plugs and reduces combustion efficiency. Because the engine isn't running anywhere near peak efficiency, fuel economy is horrible. And there isn't a set of points and plugs in the world that will remedy the situation. Sure, a new set of plugs will pep up the engine, but only for awhile--until carbon deposits squeeze the life out the engine once more.

Another lubrication problem relates to fall lay-up. As gasoline burns, it deposits acid residue in crankcase oil. Acid content isn't really a problem when oil is changed on schedule. But if old oil is left in the engine over the winter the acid etches bearings, piston skirts, crankshaft journals, and other critical wear surfaces. Simply changing the oil during decommissioning prevents this premature wear.

Similarly, dirty oil wreaks havoc on internal parts. Oil attracts grit like a magnet. Even with the spark arrester bolted tightly to the top of the carburetor, some microscopic particles will find their way into the oil. As hours are logged, this abrasive material gets between the bearings and crank journal.

In addition to changing oil regularly and during lay-up, tune-ups are another vital element in extending engine life. A weak ignition spark does a poor job "lighting the fire." As a result, not all of the fuel/air mixture burns. Not only do performance and fuel economy suffer, but unburned, abrasive hydrocarbons also deposit themselves on pistons and combustion chambers.

In extreme cases, unburned gasoline washes lubricant off cylinder walls, causing excess heat and friction to score them. And when gasoline gets into the crankcase sump, it dilutes the oil, reducing lubrication even further. Rings begin to stick, which pulls the plug on compression. If the oil rings are damaged, the engine becomes an oil-burner.

So exactly how often should you change oil and tune the engine? At a minimum, always change the oil during fall lay-up. My rule-of-thumb is: Never log more than 100 hours without an oil change. Engine manufacturers all recommend specific tune-up intervals and oil-change intervals (as well as what type of oil to use). Make sure not to exceed these intervals.

Most boats don't come equipped with odometers or hour meters, so without a log book, you can lose track of how long it's been since the last oil change. You should maintain a record of the number of hours you put on your engine. Unfortunately, most boat owners are somewhat lax when it comes to oil changes. If the family car were neglected the way the typical family boat usually is, major repair bills would begin piling up around 50,000 to 75,000 miles. But, if pampered with frequent oil changes and periodic tune-ups, that same car engine could log up to 300,000 miles without an overhaul.

The third rule for engine longevity is to maintain the cooling system. Most sudden engine failures are due to overheating. When an engine loses its cool, rings score cylinder walls and heads warp.

The best approach is to do a pre-flight check before every outing. Begin with the lower unit. Make sure the water pick-up is clear. Plastic baggies, marine growth, and other debris can all plug the opening, restricting coolant flow. Next, check each cooling system hose. Look for cracks or breaks. Squeeze each hose. Brittle or mushy hoses should be replaced. Also eyeball the side of the block. If the area around the freeze plugs looks suspiciously free of oil and other grit, a cooling leak may have steam-cleaned the area.

If the instrument panel isn't already equipped with a temperature gauge, install one. Then, for the record, note the baseline temperature. Any variation up or down will not only tip you off that something has gone haywire, but point you in the right direction to correct it.

[edge0]

I have a question. If you change your oil before winter lay up do you change it and then run it to get the fresh oil throughout it or just change and don't fire it up until spring?

[TXMC-06X2]

I have done it both ways, but usually I will change the oil and winterize it and then leave it alone until next season.

[FrankSchwab]

Next year, change it at 50, then change again before winter layup (and run it at least once to distribute the fresh oil through the engine). This year, it means that you would have only gotten 30 hours after your second change - close enough in my book to have made it worth while.

Remember, it's not just your oil - it's also your oil filter. If the oil filter plugs up, the overpressure valve opens and lets diry oil bypass the filter.

/frank

[Bouyhead]

I have a question. If you change your oil before winter lay up do you change it and then run it to get the fresh oil throughout it or just change and don't fire it up until spring?

Better to change your oil then run the motor to circulate the clean oil. Then winterize as usual.

[Miss Rita]

I have a question. If you change your oil before winter lay up do you change it and then run it to get the fresh oil throughout it or just change and don't fire it up until spring?

I run the engine after the change just long enough to fog it. That way all the parts are coated with fresh oil, not the old crappy stuff.

[edge0]

I run the engine after the change just long enough to fog it. That way all the parts are coated with fresh oil, not the old crappy stuff.

I hate to beat a dead horse but I would like to see if there are other opinions on this. I understand that for cheap insurance why not change the oil but it seems to me that doing so doesn't provide any additional comfort. Here is why I think that and maybe someone can provide an explanation. Keep in mind that I did not see in my 08 owners manual MC suggesting that the oil be changed prior to winter storage.

1. What does it matter in the oil becomes acidic if it is just sitting in the pan and you change it before firing it up next spring? It is going to sit for 6 months so won't the new oil also become acidic?

2. Same question for the new oil you just coated your engine with. That will be 6 months old.

3. What if you use synthetic oil, does that also become acidic?

4. Does anyone have any real proof of engine failur due to NOT changing the oil before winter storage? I have owned several boats, cars, motorcycles, snowmobiles, dirt bikes, etc and NEVER had one fail due to not changing the oil BEFORE storage. I always change after and pre use.

thanks

[Willski]

I hate to beat a dead horse but I would like to see if there are other opinions on this. I understand that for cheap insurance why not change the oil but it seems to me that doing so doesn't provide any additional comfort. Here is why I think that and maybe someone can provide an explanation. Keep in mind that I did not see in my 08 owners manual MC suggesting that the oil be changed prior to winter storage.

1. What does it matter in the oil becomes acidic if it is just sitting in the pan and you change it before firing it up next spring? It is going to sit for 6 months so won't the new oil also become acidic?

2. Same question for the new oil you just coated your engine with. That will be 6 months old.

3. What if you use synthetic oil, does that also become acidic?

4. Does anyone have any real proof of engine failur due to NOT changing the oil before winter storage? I have owned several boats, cars, motorcycles, snowmobiles, dirt bikes, etc and NEVER had one fail due to not changing the oil BEFORE storage. I always change after and pre use.

thanks

I have always done the same....change in the spring. I have a different boat now, and considered changing in the fall, but now, I have drained the water out of my engine, and won't likely run the boat again, so I will probably wait to change oil until spring.

[mayo93prostar]

edgeo, it is your choice but it appears the majority say to change in fall.
the oil becomes acidic only after running for a while from the combustion and fuel blowby the rings, etc. the new oil is 6 months old but it has not been run for 6 months. the real question is if it is worth saving $50 and an hour to change the oil or risk damage to the engine that may cost $5-10k to fix. I choose to spend the little bit and change it and then when it warms up in the spring, hit it.

[MariStar-Man]

doing so doesn't provide any additional comfort.

Your correct, it doesn't provide comfort, but does provide protection. That's why it's best to run the engine a bit to circulate the Fresh oil.

and NEVER had one fail due to not changing the oil BEFORE storage


And it's not that the engine will imediately FAIL. It's the progressive worsening of the engines full performance, and gas economy...

I was curious how often you think the oil Should be Changed...?

[carracer]

Here are my thoughts I change my oil while the motor is hot so any dirt or carbon will be suspended in the oil and will drain out. The oil setting in your pan all winter will allow the contaminants to settle and may not drain out completely. (I am way to OCD for that)

[edge0]

Your correct, it doesn't provide comfort, but does provide protection. That's why it's best to run the engine a bit to circulate the Fresh oil.

What protection is left after 6 months on sitting? Wouldn't putting in fresh oil in the spring and then cranking the engine over without firing be better?



I was curious how often you think the oil Should be Changed...?

It depends on how you use it. I am hard on everything so change it often, example 50 hours for boat. My 99 ford expedition: I change it when the oil pressure guage pins to "L" when making a turn and usally pull 1.5 quarts out of it......and it has 240k miles! :D I am not saying that changing the oil and changing it often isn't a good thing (if not the best thing) for an engine, I just don't see how changing it BEFORE storing away for the winter provides any better protection.

Why doesn't MC state to do it in their manual?

[Thrall]

[QUOTE=edge0;714765]

My 99 ford expedition: I change it when the oil pressure guage pins to "L" when making a turn and usally pull 1.5 quarts out of it......and it has 240k miles! :D QUOTE]

Hahahaha! That's awesome!
My 2cents is no, it's not going to ruin the engine by leavingused oil in it over the winter. Like someone said, it's all just sitting in the pan anyway. Also, most of these motors (engines...sorry) are Chevy 350's. Arguably the most bulletproof engine made. 3rd, how many people have more than 1 or 2 cars and don't drive them all regularly? Do you change the oil every time you get done driving it?
I agree regular maintenance intervals prolongs engine life, and for me, I'd rather change it in the fall, mainly 1 less thing to do in the summer when it goes on the water. That said, I wouldn't have a grabber if the oil didn't get changed before winter layup.
Heck, my 06 only had 2 oil changes on it whn I bought it last year, 1 at breakin 10hrs and 1 the following season, so it went about 2-1/2 years on that oil change.

[Miss Rita]

I'm not worried about the oil in the pan all winter, I'm worried about the used crappy oil that's coating the bearings and rings. Those are the parts that wear out, right?

It's not a question of how old the oil is, it's a question of how used the oil is.

[edge0]

I'm not worried about the oil in the pan all winter, I'm worried about the used crappy oil that's coating the bearings and rings. Those are the parts that wear out, right?

It's not a question of how old the oil is, it's a question of how used the oil is.

After six months of sitting are those rings and bearings still coated?

What about synthetic oil, does it provide better protection during storage periods.

I'm going to call a few oil companies tomorrow and get their opinion. I do know a Mercury rep and he reccomends changing the oil in the spring.

[FrankSchwab]

I'm going with Miss Rita

Most of the oil is sitting in the pan; that could be fresh Joe Gibbs oil, or it could be used french fry oil, it's not going to make a difference while it sits there. But the connecting rod bearings (upper and lower), camshaft lobes and journals, rings and cylinders, and timing chain all maintain an oil film over the layup. An acidic oil will more likely pit those surfaces during the long winter, whereas fresh oil won't. Will you notice next year? Probably not. The general assumption is that you might notice 10 or 15 years down the road when yours is burning oil and your buddys isn't, when your compression is down 20 points and your buddy's isn't.

/frank

[edge0]

I'm going with Miss Rita

Most of the oil is sitting in the pan; that could be fresh Joe Gibbs oil, or it could be used french fry oil, it's not going to make a difference while it sits there. But the connecting rod bearings (upper and lower), camshaft lobes and journals, rings and cylinders, and timing chain all maintain an oil film over the layup. An acidic oil will more likely pit those surfaces during the long winter, whereas fresh oil won't. Will you notice next year? Probably not. The general assumption is that you might notice 10 or 15 years down the road when yours is burning oil and your buddys isn't, when your compression is down 20 points and your buddy's isn't.

/frank

AH, well glad I don't keep toys that long, I beat on them to hard for that...............Note to self....don't buy a motor toy from edge0 :toast: