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G-Star
09-16-2010, 04:09 PM
I've been doing a lot of reading on here about various winterization procedures. I want to do the winterization myself, because my local dealer charges $300+ to drain the block, fog cylinders, and add fuel stabilizer.

So, my question is: do any of you use compressed air to blow the water out, rather than just draining the block or adding RV antifreeze. Is this a good way to winterize?

My local dealer claims they do not use antifreeze as it can cause corrosion over time. They say they blow the block out with air.

I've searched around and found lots of threads on adding RV antifreeze, but really nothing on blowing the block out with air.

This is my 1st winterization on my '02 X-Star (just bought it a month ago), so I want to make sure I don't cost myself a short block (or any other damage, for that matter).

Thanks in advance.

turn1andburn1
09-16-2010, 04:13 PM
I would just drain the block and manifolds if I were you. That way you know for sure there is no more h2o in there.

What part of Western Canada you from? Im in Western Alberta.

Muttley
09-16-2010, 04:35 PM
I don't used compressed air. I don't even think it's a good idea. Just pull the two petcocks in the block, the plugs at the rear of the manifolds, the plug at the bottom of the silencer. Fog it, change the oil... etc. I don't use antifreeze, but I'm in a heated garage. Is your boat outside? You'd want to put a de-humidifier and maybe a trouble light under the cover. If you're in BC, that will be enough to keep it from freezing.

G-Star
09-16-2010, 05:03 PM
I'm in BC. The boat will be in an unheated garage in the Okanagan. Unfortunately, I can't do the trouble light trick because there is no power during the winter.

thatsmrmastercraft
09-16-2010, 05:15 PM
I use JimN's method of running the boat in the driveway and putting three gallons of RV antifreeze through the engine, then drain out as much as possible and removing the four engine plugs and two in the exhaust manifold. Then removing the front hoses from the lower connection point. Cold enough here in MN and I have had no problems.

ShamrockIV
09-16-2010, 05:30 PM
i pour atinfreeze into the raw water hose till it comes out the exhaust. familyt has been doing it for years.

JDK
09-17-2010, 04:09 PM
I've been doing a lot of reading on here about various winterization procedures. I want to do the winterization myself, because my local dealer charges $300+ to drain the block, fog cylinders, and add fuel stabilizer.

So, my question is: do any of you use compressed air to blow the water out, rather than just draining the block or adding RV antifreeze. Is this a good way to winterize?

My local dealer claims they do not use antifreeze as it can cause corrosion over time. They say they blow the block out with air.

I've searched around and found lots of threads on adding RV antifreeze, but really nothing on blowing the block out with air.

This is my 1st winterization on my '02 X-Star (just bought it a month ago), so I want to make sure I don't cost myself a short block (or any other damage, for that matter).

Thanks in advance.


For open cooling systems;
Drain block and manifolds of all water (remove plugs).
Re-install all plugs
Remove freshwater inlet hose and insert big *** funnel.
Start engine and begin pouring RV anti freeze into funnel (at same time).
When you get pink liquid coming out exhaust --- shut everything down (takes about 3 gals.)
Drain block and manifolds of all RV anti-freeze (remove all plugs/hoses etc).
You're done - takes me about 10 mins and my boat has seen -45'F in the winter.

east tx skier
09-17-2010, 04:17 PM
I just drain everything and put a funnel on the raw water hose going to the thermostat. Hold that hose up as high as I can and pour rv antifreeze into it. Usually about three gallons or less. Works like a charm.

Jorski
09-17-2010, 06:00 PM
the plug at the bottom of the silencer.

Wha' dat???? Suppose that you mean the mufflers? If so, I have never done that, and have never had a problem.

JDK
09-18-2010, 04:01 AM
I just drain everything and put a funnel on the raw water hose going to the thermostat. Hold that hose up as high as I can and pour rv antifreeze into it. Usually about two gallons or less. Works like a charm.

Doubtful if your getting much (or any) antifreeze into the block if you're not running the engine while it's hot (thermostat will be closed, and you'll have huge air bubbles unless circ. pump is moving water).

uncleboo
09-21-2010, 10:56 PM
I pull the spark plugs before fogging directly into the cylinders. You can pull the safety switch and bump the engine over very briefly to blow any water out of the cylinders. Then fog as normal. Pulling the safety switch ensures you don't accidentally start your engine out of the water. I would never use an air compressor to blow air through the engine. I would be scared of getting any dirt or debris in places it shouldn't be. However, I do use the compressor to get the water out of the hose connected to my heater.

Thrall
09-28-2010, 02:13 PM
Only thing I blow out is the heater and I just do that by hand and add some antifreeze to it because it's about impossible to get all the water out of the heater core in some configurations. I antifreeze the ballast lines/tanks as well. Engine and shower just get drained.

east tx skier
09-28-2010, 03:30 PM
Doubtful if your getting much (or any) antifreeze into the block if you're not running the engine while it's hot (thermostat will be closed, and you'll have huge air bubbles unless circ. pump is moving water).

Not on a PCM. This is precisely how the PCM manual for my boat says to do it. On top of the thermostat housing which has 3 hoses going to the manifold. The hose that goes from the raw water pump up to the housing will bypass the thermostat and fill the block. and also up in that same housing there is a bypass to dump water to the exhaust. Under normal operation, once the thermostat opens more water will exit to the exhaust

I believe the answer is different with Indmar. Depending on year, people on here may still be working with PCM. Sorry for the confusion. But this method works just fine for getting antifreeze to the block on my motor.

Good explanation as it pertains to the circulation system on a PCM motor here (http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16051&title=confirmed).

Also, for anyone who is just draining, take the boat and trailer on a little ride, preferably over some hills. You'd be surprised at the extra water that manages to work its way out.

Chicago190
09-28-2010, 07:32 PM
Everyone has their own winterization procedure and for the most part they all achieve the same effect. Some people prefer to drain the block, others prefer to fill it with anti-freeze, and some like to drain the block and then fill it with anti-freeze. You can pour the anti-freeze in through a hose or suck it up through the raw water pump. Do whatever makes you feel confident that no water remains in the engine.

Personally:

1. Drain oil
2. Remove block plug, knock sensor and 2 manifold plugs; reinstall plugs when water stops draining
3. Disconnect hoses and shake out excess water
4. Remove thermostat so that anti-freeze circulates into block
5. Reconnect hoses
6. Change oil filter
7. Re-fill oil
8. Stick 1 1/4" ID clear flexible hose into bucket with 5 gallons of anti-freeze and connect hose to intake side of raw water pump
9. Run engine until bucket is empty
10. Remove spark plugs, fog each cylinder and re-install spark plugs
11. Disconnect kill switch and crank engine for 3 seconds
12. Disconnect battery
13. Cover and close garage door

east tx skier
09-28-2010, 10:02 PM
Are you saying there is no difference between the ability to pour antifreeze into a PCM motor cold versus Indmar? I'm all for letting people do what makes them happy. But I have read that the circulation differences between these two marinizations may make that less of a possibility. Then again, I read lots of stuff. :)

Chicago190
09-29-2010, 12:39 AM
Are you saying there is no difference between the ability to pour antifreeze into a PCM motor cold versus Indmar? I'm all for letting people do what makes them happy. But I have read that the circulation differences between these two marinizations may make that less of a possibility. Then again, I read lots of stuff. :)

That's probably true, but I know it can be done through pouring. My guess is that you can fill the block by pouring through the J-hose off the water pump and then fill the manifolds through each hose off the thermostat housing. More work than PCM? Yes. Same effect? You bet.