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Workin' 4 Toys
07-06-2005, 12:18 PM
I can say I have never owned a trailer with hydraulic disc brakes before this one. I have trailers with electric brakes so I am confused. Is it somewhat normal to get a slight squeak out of them as you are going down the road? I can not seem to get it to go away. It is not from sitting, because it doesn't sit much. The brakes work fone and don't seem to stick, they roll freely. Is there some sort of maintenance I need to do becuase there may be corrosion or the like. Please advise.

Thrall
07-06-2005, 12:42 PM
Probably just a pebble or some other crap wedged in the brakepads. If they work fine, I wouldn't sweat it. Worst case, take the brake pads off and clean up the pads/rotors w/ some brake cleaner.
Other possibility is the pads are wore down to the indicators (squeal when brakes applied). Not too likely w/ a newer trailer unless you have a ton of miles on it.

Workin' 4 Toys
07-06-2005, 04:56 PM
Probably just a pebble or some other crap wedged in the brakepads. If they work fine, I wouldn't sweat it. Worst case, take the brake pads off and clean up the pads/rotors w/ some brake cleaner.
Other possibility is the pads are wore down to the indicators (squeal when brakes applied). Not too likely w/ a newer trailer unless you have a ton of miles on it.
4000miles if I had to guess. But they only squeek when traveling with no brakes applied. Just very annoying.

P-hat_in_Cincy
07-20-2005, 02:52 PM
Forgive the partial thread hijack, but I'm looking into my brakes b/c I thought they might be hanging up (delayed release). It doesn't appear the caliper pistion is releasing smoothly. I greased the guide pins, but is there a way to lubricate the caliper piston too?

whitedog
07-20-2005, 03:20 PM
Workin, are you sure its the breaks squeaking and not the tongue and actuator? My trailer will squeak from the actuator area on some roads. Lube the pins and all moving parts on the hitch area.

P-Hat: do a web search for the company that made you trailer actuator. Manual should tell you. You can get detailed drawings andservice info from them. You may need a rebuild kit for you master cylinder.

Workin' 4 Toys
07-20-2005, 03:26 PM
Workin, are you sure its the breaks squeaking and not the tongue and actuator? My trailer will squeak from the actuator area on some roads. Lube the pins and all moving parts on the hitch area.

P-Hat: do a web search for the company that made you trailer actuator. Manual should tell you. You can get detailed drawings andservice info from them. You may need a rebuild kit for you master cylinder.

It is fine now. All I did was jam on the brakes a few times and it stopped. I guess I was nervous after reading the brake issues before, that I had an issue with brakes sticking. No more noise now. Thanks.

P-hat_in_Cincy
07-20-2005, 04:05 PM
P-Hat: do a web search for the company that made you trailer actuator. Manual should tell you. You can get detailed drawings andservice info from them. You may need a rebuild kit for you master cylinder.

I think it's something to do with the caliper and not the actuator. I just took off the starboard side tire and it spin free as can be. The port side tire is the one sticking and showng unusual amount of brake dust.

Workin' 4 Toys
07-21-2005, 11:22 AM
In a few weeks I am going to go through the entire system, and clean and check everything. I am new to the hydraulic trailer brake systems. Not sure so far how much I like them as opposed to the electric with the adjustable brake controllers.

Workin' 4 Toys
08-01-2005, 09:09 AM
I think it's something to do with the caliper and not the actuator. I just took off the starboard side tire and it spin free as can be. The port side tire is the one sticking and showng unusual amount of brake dust.

What did you do to fix this?

bigmac
08-01-2005, 09:27 AM
In a few weeks I am going to go through the entire system, and clean and check everything. I am new to the hydraulic trailer brake systems. Not sure so far how much I like them as opposed to the electric with the adjustable brake controllers.

I HATE surge brakes. I'd much rather have electric brakes. On my vehicle an electric brake controller is completely plug-and-play and I've got a Tekonsha Prodigy computerized controller already installed for the horse trailer. Only problem I can see is that electric brakes require a back-up battery on the trailer that activates the brakes if the trailer becomes disconnected, so I'd have to find someplace to place that battery on the boat trailer. The cable actuator for the surge brakes is simpler.

One other problem with electric brakes is that the settings on the controller would be a lot different on a boat trailer loaded compared to unloaded. Some less sophisticated controllers than the Tekonsha can be touchy to adjust.

Workin' 4 Toys
08-01-2005, 09:34 AM
I HATE surge brakes. I'd much rather have electric brakes. On my vehicle an electric brake controller is completely plug-and-play and I've got a Tekonsha Prodigy computerized controller already installed for the horse trailer. Only problem I can see is that electric brakes require a back-up battery on the trailer that activates the brakes if the trailer becomes disconnected, so I'd have to find someplace to place that battery on the boat trailer. The cable actuator for the surge brakes is simpler.

One other problem with electric brakes is that the settings on the controller would be a lot different on a boat trailer loaded compared to unloaded. Some less sophisticated controllers than the Tekonsha can be touchy to adjust.

I too have the Prodigy. The best controller by far I have ever owned, and would get one again in a second. We use it for all the snowmobile, car, and Jeep trailers with elec. brakes.
I am getting the impression hyd. trailer brakes are a hassle, especially for those of use that tow alot. But electric can have major issues too from frequent submerging, so I guess I am going to have to lube everything in the system with anti-seize lube.

Workin' 4 Toys
08-08-2005, 10:35 AM
I think it's something to do with the caliper and not the actuator. I just took off the starboard side tire and it spin free as can be. The port side tire is the one sticking and showng unusual amount of brake dust.
THIS WEEKEND.. MY EXACT SITUATION. WHY only one side?????

Workin' 4 Toys
08-08-2005, 10:38 AM
Workin, are you sure its the breaks squeaking and not the tongue and actuator? My trailer will squeak from the actuator area on some roads. Lube the pins and all moving parts on the hitch area.

P-Hat: do a web search for the company that made you trailer actuator. Manual should tell you. You can get detailed drawings andservice info from them. You may need a rebuild kit for you master cylinder.
This weekend I had to leave the boat at a friends house local to the lake because my brakes locked up for no apparent reason. What is going on, too many complaints about these hydraulic brake systems. Is there recall or anything yet?

Workin' 4 Toys
08-08-2005, 01:23 PM
Anyone have any ideas???? What's going on with these trailers??

whitedog
08-08-2005, 02:22 PM
Do you have drum or disk brakes. They have differnt problems. Drum brakes will get adjusted too tightly by backing up frequently and not driving very far afterwards. They work the same as rear drum brakes on older cars.

Workin' 4 Toys
08-08-2005, 02:42 PM
Do you have drum or disk brakes. They have differnt problems. Drum brakes will get adjusted too tightly by backing up frequently and not driving very far afterwards. They work the same as rear drum brakes on older cars.
2003 hydraulic disc. RIGHT SIDE ONLY locks up. Left side seems to work fine.

Ryan
08-08-2005, 03:08 PM
I talked to a guy in LB who had just taken his X9 out of the water. I was curious about this box on his trailer.

He had Electric ove Hydrolic (or is it the other way around) with the battery box behind the spare tire mount arm on the main frame.

Workin' 4 Toys
08-08-2005, 03:13 PM
I talked to a guy in LB who had just taken his X9 out of the water. I was curious about this box on his trailer.

He had Electric ove Hydrolic (or is it the other way around) with the battery box behind the spare tire mount arm on the main frame.
And what does that do?

6ballsisall
08-08-2005, 03:24 PM
I can say I have never owned a trailer with hydraulic disc brakes before this one. I have trailers with electric brakes so I am confused. Is it somewhat normal to get a slight squeak out of them as you are going down the road? I can not seem to get it to go away. It is not from sitting, because it doesn't sit much. The brakes work fone and don't seem to stick, they roll freely. Is there some sort of maintenance I need to do becuase there may be corrosion or the like. Please advise.

Are they Hydraulic over Electric Brakes? Do you know the brand axle used? Is it Dexter? Is it a torsion or spring over axle?

Workin' 4 Toys
08-08-2005, 03:31 PM
Are they Hydraulic over Electric Brakes? Do you know the brand axle used? Is it Dexter? Is it a torsion or spring over axle?
Hydraulic disc, on a torsion. Year is a 2003 MC trailer single axle.

6ballsisall
08-08-2005, 03:33 PM
Have you tried bleeding off the lines and refilling them? I don't know what brand Axle MC used in 03' so I don't know how you'd do that on that axle. We had a similar issue a few years back with my Grandfathers Regal I/O. Bleeding of the lines and refilling did the trick. The lines while still sealed were full of water.

Workin' 4 Toys
08-08-2005, 03:37 PM
Have you tried bleeding off the lines and refilling them? I don't know what brand Axle MC used in 03' so I don't know how you'd do that on that axle. We had a similar issue a few years back with my Grandfathers Regal I/O. Bleeding of the lines and refilling did the trick. The lines while still sealed were full of water.
Yup, used fresh DOT 3 just like it says on the filler cap in the top of the tongue. I had a friend that had his own exhaust/brake shop for years on the job helping me with it. Everything looked normal, out with the old, in the with new. No air, no signs of any issues. Other than the locked wheel of course. I am puzzled.

6ballsisall
08-08-2005, 03:41 PM
hmmm........

I need to think about it so more this evening. Have you looked at the pads and rotors? Do they look worn uneven? Have you tried pulling it a little and stopped and felt the wheels for heat? What about getting out on an open road and attempting to lock the brakes up on the trailer. If you do that watch both sides and see if you can tell if even pressure is being applied to both wheels/brakes.

Workin' 4 Toys
08-08-2005, 03:49 PM
hmmm........

I need to think about it so more this evening. Have you looked at the pads and rotors? Do they look worn uneven? Have you tried pulling it a little and stopped and felt the wheels for heat? What about getting out on an open road and attempting to lock the brakes up on the trailer. If you do that watch both sides and see if you can tell if even pressure is being applied to both wheels/brakes.

AFTER they locked up, I decided to disassemble the brake. I removed the caliper squeezing it to release it from the rotor. I noticed the pads were very thin. ( I just so happened to order a set of new pads I put in the boat because of the squeeking I heard in previous weeks), thought it might have been the squeekers, but it went away so it wasn't so I was going to change them in a few weeks when I had time. strictly for my own piece of mind) I reasssembled the brake with new pads. guide pins were clean and spotless, and came out with a slight push. Tested again, still locked up with a manual push on the tongue. Disassembled again, and removed the guides just to see if were the guides hanging up. No luck, stilll locked up. I put the old pads back in and tested again with out the guides and still locked up. Before I applied the pressure at any of these tests I could wobble the caliper on the pins as if it were loose so there was NO binding of any sort. DO I just start replacing parts until I find the solution. I am at the end of my rope.

6ballsisall
08-08-2005, 04:18 PM
Let me see if I get this straight. Only one side locks up? Does the other side work at all? You aren't getting any fluid leakage on the locking pad are you? Not knowing the axle brand and brake configuration I am a little at a loss. There has to be some sort of a proportioning valve that regulates fluid. That sounds like it might be the culprit for the locking issue.

I don't know how the MC techs are at your dealership. They may be a good resource. If not, find a good commercial truck shop that works on trailers. They will be able to get to the bottom of it.

Sorry I can't be of more help.

Workin' 4 Toys
08-08-2005, 04:33 PM
Let me see if I get this straight. Only one side locks up? Does the other side work at all? You aren't getting any fluid leakage on the locking pad are you? Not knowing the axle brand and brake configuration I am a little at a loss. There has to be some sort of a proportioning valve that regulates fluid. That sounds like it might be the culprit for the locking issue.

I don't know how the MC techs are at your dealership. They may be a good resource. If not, find a good commercial truck shop that works on trailers. They will be able to get to the bottom of it.

Sorry I can't be of more help.
Right side only locks up, and fluid flows normal when we crack the bleeders open. Both sides seem equal. Could it be the caliper is locking up/binding internally? If so, why so soon after two years of service? I doubt it is the master because both would do it right?
Oh, and yes the left side works fine, jack up the left and wheel spins, puch the tongue and it is hard to turn, release the tongue and it spins again. Not so with the right side, push in and out once or ten times, still locked up.

6ballsisall
08-08-2005, 04:37 PM
Right side only locks up, and fluid flows normal when we crack the bleeders open. Both sides seem equal. Could it be the caliper is locking up/binding internally? If so, why so soon after two years of service? I doubt it is the master because both would do it right?
Oh, and yes the left side works fine, jack up the left and wheel spins, puch the tongue and it is hard to turn, release the tongue and it spins again. Not so with the right side, push in and out once or ten times, still locked up.

Couldnt tell you on the caliper. Is there abnormal wear marks anywhere? You've got me stumped now :(

Workin' 4 Toys
08-08-2005, 04:38 PM
Let me see if I get this straight. Only one side locks up? Does the other side work at all? You aren't getting any fluid leakage on the locking pad are you? Not knowing the axle brand and brake configuration I am a little at a loss. There has to be some sort of a proportioning valve that regulates fluid. That sounds like it might be the culprit for the locking issue.

I don't know how the MC techs are at your dealership. They may be a good resource. If not, find a good commercial truck shop that works on trailers. They will be able to get to the bottom of it.

Sorry I can't be of more help.
And my dealer is more than 50 miles away from it, do I take a chance of burning down a tire or having it fall off or catch fire, or do I try to fix it myself where it is? Or should I have it picked up on a flat bed tow truck and fold the tower down...

One more solution I just thought of but not very reasonable, could there be junk getting into the lines from the master that I can not see and doesn't leak. but I guess then the flow would be restricted to the caliper too then right?

Workin' 4 Toys
08-08-2005, 04:40 PM
Couldnt tell you on the caliper. Is there abnormal wear marks anywhere? You've got me stumped now :(
Nope,
no wear marks, pads look normal. Caliper looks normal. No leaks. Master is full. AHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 :eek: :eek: :mad:

djhuff
08-08-2005, 05:17 PM
One thing my dealer told me when this happened to my trailer ('03) is that the rubber lines going to the calipers can get a little corroded inside and plug themselves up. The pressure from the master cylinder is enough to compress, but the back pressure will not be enough to completely release the calipers and they will stick. They still work and will lock up, they just won't release fully. This will cause your tire to get extremely hot.

I had a blowout on a road trip I believe because of this fact. Don't know what the problem was because my dealer couldn't find it, and because of other factors that had happened to me before hand, they felt it necessary to get the trailer back to me that day and replaced the entire system. Works fine now. Like I said though, there were other circumstances leading to the complete replacement.

I'm sending you a PM on a temporary fix so that you can get it to the dealer without completely overheating the tire.

Workin' 4 Toys
08-08-2005, 05:50 PM
What is the dealer going to do that I can't, and did they replace it with just a new hose of the exact same it was when it had a problem? IF so, what about in another two years?
Can I replace them with stainless braided hoses, and that was all they replaced was the hoses and it was done?
I certainly don't want to lose a tire. It would cost more in repairs than buying a new trailer. Between the tire, rim, fender, and trailer damages. Not to mention the liability I would have if the lost tire hit someone or something else. I know there are after market companies that make stainless braid hoses for the auto industry, I wonder if they have some for the boat trailer industry?

djhuff
08-08-2005, 06:46 PM
W4T, I have only had the boat for 15 months (since new) so I took it to the dealer in hopes they would show some mercy and fix it for free. They ended up replacing the entire system (hoses, calipers, pads, discs). They did not use an '03 trailer for the parts, but took them off of an '04 or '05 (can't remember). I don't know if the problem has been fixed for good or not, but I am back on the road right now.

The hose may or may not have been the problem, I don't know.

Workin' 4 Toys
08-12-2005, 12:55 AM
I hope to replace all the parts I ordered this weekend and try to get it back on the road.

Cary K.
08-12-2005, 09:00 AM
My issue doesn't sound as bad as you guys. I pulled mine last night and it didn't seem like the brakes werew working at all. I checked the reservoir and it was low. I stopped and filled it back up with DOT3 and it didn't seem to be any better. The tongue doesn't seem to have as much pressure on it either (i.e. it is jerking much more and easier when accelerating).

I plan on going through them this weekend, but wanted to get any suggestions from y'all before I do. Also, anyone know what kind of brake pads to use?

Workin' 4 Toys
08-12-2005, 11:04 AM
I got my brake pads from MYMC, not sure the equivalent but we were guessing they are GM pads of some year, we are looking into to to find the match of a greater quality in the GM or ford line. They were like $20 for the set if I recall.
My first guess would be if the master was low you have a leak somewhere, of there was a leak then the chances you got water in the system is pretty high. You need to do a serious bleed on the system and "hope" you get all the junk out. Otherwise it will be nothing but problems down the road (no pun intended) rust everywhere. By nature Brake fluid is like a magnet for moisture, hense rust. When its inside the system, is will reak havoc on you.
Just my 2 cents.
I am close to removing my trailer brakes all together with all the problems with them. But I just dropped another $200.00 in parts to fix them, what am I nuts!?!?!? So I will see how the future holds up, and if I have one more flaw, I am going to remove them all together. ( I think)

Workin' 4 Toys
09-15-2005, 11:44 PM
There is a difference between the calipers that were factory, and the new ones I received. Slight, but possibly enough to not let my issue happen again. When I get a chance I will post some pics.

ematthew
09-16-2005, 12:41 PM
I had a break lock up problem yesterday when towing my 04 X-Star. The rig was riding in a very jerky manner and after about a mile I saw smoke coming from the left rear hub area. I pulled over and the rear wheel was burning hot. I never had this problem before, although I usually only tow about 2 blocks from the storage area to the launch ramp I use. One of the other wheels was warm, and 2 were comletely cool. Long story short, the boat/trailer was flat bedded to the dealer where it is now for repair. I will update when I know what the problem with my trailer breaks really is.

Workin' 4 Toys
09-16-2005, 02:05 PM
The new calipers come is a box that says 2003-2005.

I assume it means that is the year they need the updated calipers in order to not have this problem. It is ALOT more common that you'd think. Ive even talked to people on the street who are in the process of having to do it, or have done it already.
I just hope the new calipers DO NOT have the same issue, only time will tell.
I had to tow mine with a 2X4 wedged in the old caliper just to move the trailer.(Out of the trailer that is)

capin D
10-07-2005, 03:27 PM
I am experiencing trailer surge brake issues. I recently purchased an 04 X9. The trailer has disc surge brakes and the brakes work well with the boat on the trailer. When I am hauling the trailer back to my cabin without the boat I am having problems. The brakes are locking up every time I apply the brakes or hit a pot hole. This causes the trailer to begin bouncing and can be a major problem. Do you know a way around this?

Workin' 4 Toys
10-07-2005, 03:33 PM
I am experiencing trailer surge brake issues. I recently purchased an 04 X9. The trailer has disc surge brakes and the brakes work well with the boat on the trailer. When I am hauling the trailer back to my cabin without the boat I am having problems. The brakes are locking up every time I apply the brakes or hit a pot hole. This causes the trailer to begin bouncing and can be a major problem. Do you know a way around this?
I have seen people jump the reverse wire in the harness to the running light circuit. This opens the bypass valve and will not allow the brakes to operate. I would not suggest it, but others have. Sounds to me more like they should be bled, but I could not say without seeing/feeling the issue personally. I am not clear if there is an adjustment for sensitivity on them. Perhaps one of the others here would be more helpful on that option.

crdickey
10-08-2005, 01:06 AM
I had this very same problem, one side free wheels and the other side doesn't release all the way and gets very hot and lots of pad dust on the rim. I called Mike at MYMC "Mastercraft of Charlotte" he told me that Reliable Tool and Machine makes the axle for Mastercraft and they are replacing for free to anyone complaining of this problem. Seem a bit of corrosion causes the piston to hang up and not release. I called Reliable and they sent me new set of calipers with pads for free!.An updated version which will not stick, they say.

Check out this posting at MYMC about this problem.

http://mymastercraft.com/Forum/view_thread.cfm?postid=266&forum=10&category=2

Workin' 4 Toys
11-21-2005, 09:53 AM
It would have been nice to know about a week before I paid for mine!! Still burns me to this day!!!

the calipers on your MasterCraft trailer are from an early GM design. The manufacturer is Reliable Tool & Machine in Kendallville, IN., they sell the complete axle to masterCraft. They are perfectly aware of the problem of sticky pistons due to incorrect tolerances of the caliper bore and piston and should be giving you free replacements calipers.

pjwatkins
12-21-2005, 01:45 PM
We had the same problem with the trailer for our '03 Prostar 209. The caliper was locked up and would get so hot that the steam would roll off the wheel when we backed it into the water. And when the boat wasn't on the trailer, the wheel/tire would just drag along in the gravel, wouldn't turn a bit! We bought the boat new last year before Christmas so it was still under warranty. Only problem was that the nearest dealer was over 125 miles away! So after exploring many repair possiblities with our dealer and MC customer service, they sent me new calipers, lines & pads for BOTH sides (only the right side was locked up) and we hired a mechanic to put them on and the dealer reimbursed me the cost of the labor.

I was very happy with the way that MC worked to get the issue resolved.

jimmer2880
12-22-2005, 10:31 AM
We had the same problem with the trailer for our '03 Prostar 209. The caliper was locked up and would get so hot that the steam would roll off the wheel when we backed it into the water. And when the boat wasn't on the trailer, the wheel/tire would just drag along in the gravel, wouldn't turn a bit! We bought the boat new last year before Christmas so it was still under warranty. Only problem was that the nearest dealer was over 125 miles away! So after exploring many repair possiblities with our dealer and MC customer service, they sent me new calipers, lines & pads for BOTH sides (only the right side was locked up) and we hired a mechanic to put them on and the dealer reimbursed me the cost of the labor.

I was very happy with the way that MC worked to get the issue resolved.

Good - glad to hear MC stepped up to the plate again! I'm continually impressed with their customer orientated service.

Ric
12-22-2005, 11:09 AM
Get this........
ok, let me preface by saying that Ric's opinion is that MC's ONE weakness is their trailers :mad:
went to the lake, week before last
unfolded the hitch and hooked up to the truck like I normally do

(I've always kinda worried about that brake hose that runs from the master cylinder into the trailer at the hinge point of the tongue)

Seemed like the brakes were dragging. Went round the corner and I was sure of it.
long story short, the brakes started to smoke.
I stopped, unhitched & hinged the tongue back to give a look & I think that I had kinked the brake hose on the fold & it hung up the calipers.
I pushed the hose back into the trailer a bit and re-hitched and all was fine EXCEPT now my damn calipers squeal when I apply the brakes because they glazed over! Back to the dang dealer again. I know they can fix it but I'd rather not have the hassle.

Workin' 4 Toys
12-22-2005, 04:41 PM
I vote for OPTIONAL trailer brakes on smaller boat trailers........

Ric
07-12-2006, 09:54 AM
6months later and I am still having brake issues....
Mine is an 05 so I ASSUMED I already had these new calipers you mentioned...
my right side does not roll freely when I raise the trailer.
my wheels were hot to the touch yesterday after about a 15 mile semi urban drive home.
Dare I take this on the highway without getting new calipers? The local trailer shop my dealer sent me to last week left my baby outside in the rain for 5 days and told me my brakes are fine..... squealing when the brakes engage is "normal"... whatever, I know something is wrong with them, I just cannot put my finger on it.

bigmac
07-12-2006, 10:00 AM
I vote for OPTIONAL trailer brakes on smaller boat trailers........

They're required in virtually all states, in some states for trailers as little as 1000 lbs GVW.

Ric
07-12-2006, 11:09 AM
I will call reliable and see if they will overnite me some of these calipers . I just can't wait to install my own calipers and bleed my own brakes on my new trailer!

east tx skier
07-12-2006, 11:19 AM
6months later and I am still having brake issues....
Mine is an 05 so I ASSUMED I already had these new calipers you mentioned...
my right side does not roll freely when I raise the trailer.
my wheels were hot to the touch yesterday after about a 15 mile semi urban drive home.
Dare I take this on the highway without getting new calipers? The local trailer shop my dealer sent me to last week left my baby outside in the rain for 5 days and told me my brakes are fine..... squealing when the brakes engage is "normal"... whatever, I know something is wrong with them, I just cannot put my finger on it.

Ric, give Trailers By Dorsey a call. They have always been great with parts for my trailer and are very knowledgable and could probably help you spit ball the problem.

Ric
07-12-2006, 11:31 AM
Just got off the phone with reliable and they seem like great people and willing to help
he told me to pull the calipers and grease the pins and be sure the pistons are clean (my dealer supposedly already did this)
he also said they will get too hot to touch if you are doing in-town driving. He wants me to go hit the highway with the trailer for 15minutes or so and then pull off and feel the wheel temp.

Of course mine still squeal like banshees when the brakes are first applied but that is something my dealer can fix up when I am not on a road trip.

To be fair, my dealer has already offered me a 197 trailer to keep me on the highway, but this pretty red trailer is driving me insane!!!!

Workin' 4 Toys
07-12-2006, 11:57 AM
They're required in virtually all states, in some states for trailers as little as 1000 lbs GVW.
I know, that's why I said "Vote" if I get elected, I would ......... Oh wait, I need to run for something to get elected...:o
Maybe they could bypass the law with optional "functioning";)

Workin' 4 Toys
07-12-2006, 12:04 PM
Just got off the phone with reliable and they seem like great people and willing to help
he told me to pull the calipers and grease the pins and be sure the pistons are clean (my dealer supposedly already did this)
he also said they will get too hot to touch if you are doing in-town driving. He wants me to go hit the highway with the trailer for 15minutes or so and then pull off and feel the wheel temp.

Of course mine still squeal like banshees when the brakes are first applied but that is something my dealer can fix up when I am not on a road trip.

To be fair, my dealer has already offered me a 197 trailer to keep me on the highway, but this pretty red trailer is driving me insane!!!!
This person advised you to pull the pistons? I don't think that is a good idea, but making sure the pins are perfectly clean, they should be stainless. I am also not sure if grease is a good idea on the pins. Perfectly clean IMO is better, OR anti-seize if you felt the need.
I would also think there will be "SOME" heat from the brakes, because they are hydraulic they never really fully release, they should always have some contact. However IMO there shouldn't be enough heat transfered through the wheel on a quick roadtrip.

Ric
07-12-2006, 12:41 PM
he didnt really say to pull the pistons but when I asked what cleaning them up meant, he said to check around them and be sure there was not a buncha corrosion... again, I think the dealer did all this already but I do want to confirm by a quick road trip shortly
obviously something is wrong with my brakes.. when I first got the boat it was "jumpy" when I would stop. the dealer put the orifice into the system and the jumping went away
as mentioned above, they locked on me in december in my neighborhood and I think all the squealing is from that issue and possibly the rotors not being true has to do with that day as well. As far as the calipers sticking....while it is new to me, it had to have something to do with the original lockup back in december.. so much for buying new to escape all the maintenance hassles....

DanC
07-12-2006, 03:35 PM
Ric,
If you think there is a caliper problem like the '03 and need a quick fix, try putting in new brake pads, if your old ones are worn down more than 1/3. This will put the piston back into the caliper. Think of an extending tent pole that slides easier when mostly retracted vs extended past it's halfway point.
I agree with WFT, your brakes should not be hot, maybe warm, from city driving.
I like anti-sieze on the guide pins.
While I was waiting for my dealer to deal with my brake problem, I pulled the two bad calipers off the rotor, put a 2x4 inside the calipers for the piston to clamp on and taped them to the axel. It was a dual axel trailer and I still had one axel's brakes working, ran that way for a month.
good luck

Ric
07-12-2006, 04:20 PM
I like that idea
I just went and drove it highway only for about 20miles and one side got as warm as my truck wheels and the other side got too hot to keep my hand on the wheel. Dealer has already messed with the orifice and the master cylinder (and I think turned a rotor) but they both need turning again and the right hand side is getting terribly hot and won't spin freely when I jack up the right side on a level surface.
Dealer is helping me out by putting another trailer under my boat while he fixes it right:) since I'm not as fortunate as you folks with boat lifts and private slips:o

Ric,
If you think there is a caliper problem like the '03 and need a quick fix, try putting in new brake pads, if your old ones are worn down more than 1/3. This will put the piston back into the caliper. Think of an extending tent pole that slides easier when mostly retracted vs extended past it's halfway point.
I agree with WFT, your brakes should not be hot, maybe warm, from city driving.
I like anti-sieze on the guide pins.
While I was waiting for my dealer to deal with my brake problem, I pulled the two bad calipers off the rotor, put a 2x4 inside the calipers for the piston to clamp on and taped them to the axel. It was a dual axel trailer and I still had one axel's brakes working, ran that way for a month.
good luck

Workin' 4 Toys
07-13-2006, 02:46 PM
This is seriously an OPINION, after seeing first hand the problem and solution, I THINK the new calipers along with new pads are TOO tight on the "existing" rotors from the getgo..... If you get the new calipers and new pads, turning the rotors down IMO is a good idea. Not to mention if they were rubbing too much they will have a glaze on them. The down side to this theory, if they still "stick", they will "stick" even worse with newly cut rotors....:o

Ric
07-13-2006, 02:59 PM
This is seriously an OPINION, after seeing first hand the problem and solution, I THINK the new calipers along with new pads are TOO tight on the "existing" rotors from the getgo..... If you get the new calipers and new pads, turning the rotors down IMO is a good idea. Not to mention if they were rubbing too much they will have a glaze on them. The down side to this theory, if they still "stick", they will "stick" even worse with newly cut rotors....:o

good point and yep, mine are glazed-they squeal like ned beatty when brakes are applied


hope the dealer puts new calipers on both sides and turn both rotors and bleed the system and replace the bunk carpet for the second time while he has it for a few days and I'm still skiing:D

Ric
07-13-2006, 03:06 PM
I will start a new thread but my trailer is going on it's third set of bunk carpet inside of one year... I finally looked at the underside of the boat today by crawling around and I think that the bulbous slotted raw water intake is wayyy too close to the trailer bunks on a 197.... since we cannot move the intake, MC may want to think about moving the inside bunks????? It's inches from the bunk and I am confident that it's hanging up on bunk carpet on load, but maybe on launch too.....


anyone else have a 197 trailer that eats thru the inside rail of the bunk carpet on the left hand (port side of the boat???

east tx skier
07-13-2006, 04:23 PM
My question is why not make it flat like the old boats. What's the scoop accomplish?

bigmac
07-13-2006, 04:25 PM
I know, that's why I said "Vote" if I get elected, I would ......... Oh wait, I need to run for something to get elected...:o
Maybe they could bypass the law with optional "functioning";)

I promise not to tell anyone, as long as you explain how you achieve that "optionality"...

Ric
07-26-2006, 11:13 AM
starting a new thread regarding the raw water pickup and the bunks now

Workin' 4 Toys
07-26-2006, 04:43 PM
I promise not to tell anyone, as long as you explain how you achieve that "optionality"...
How about a "PIN" such as the one for the reverse override.....
If you want em' pull them pin, if you don't leave it in....;)

brianob
06-11-2007, 12:26 AM
How do you disable the brakes? I have a 1999 Mastercraft Maristar and one tire is locking up. We are hitting the road for a 2000 mile trip from Arizona to Missouri and will not have time to take it to Mastercraft. Any help on disengaging the surge brakes would be appreciated. thanks

Ryan
06-11-2007, 12:53 AM
How do you disable the brakes? I have a 1999 Mastercraft Maristar and one tire is locking up. We are hitting the road for a 2000 mile trip from Arizona to Missouri and will not have time to take it to Mastercraft. Any help on disengaging the surge brakes would be appreciated. thanks

There could be more going on with your brakes...for your sake let's hope it's a simple fix. Go to your local RV parts store and ask for a lock-out for a UFP A-60 brake actuator, then zip-tie it in place. Of course you don't normally have to zip-tie it, but it wouldn't be fun trying to find a RV store in Pryor OK on your way. There are a few items at Lowe's that could do the job if you get desperate.

DHM Trailers - link to see the part (http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.dhmtrailers.com/online/files/images/thumbs/P30160.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.dhmtrailers.com/online/product.php%3Fproductid%3D883%26cat%3D0%26bestsell er&h=131&w=150&sz=4&hl=en&start=5&um=1&tbnid=O49zSeayh_0qiM:&tbnh=84&tbnw=96&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dufp%2Bbrake%2Blockout%26svnum%3D10%26 um%3D1%26hl%3Den)

Ryan
06-11-2007, 12:56 AM
Or if you're real desperate you could just disconnect a brake line and let the fluid drain out. Downsides, you'll need to re-bleed the brakes; and if the brake fluid gets on your trailer it may eat through some paint.

TMCNo1
06-11-2007, 07:31 AM
How do you disable the brakes? I have a 1999 Mastercraft Maristar and one tire is locking up. We are hitting the road for a 2000 mile trip from Arizona to Missouri and will not have time to take it to Mastercraft. Any help on disengaging the surge brakes would be appreciated. thanks


I'm just glad I'm in another part of the country and not driving in front of you, thanks for the warning! Please, get your brakes repaired!

brianob
06-11-2007, 11:09 PM
I appreciate the response to my 'disable' brakes post. I have an appointment to get the brakes looked at in the morning. At first it was a two week wait, but they are able to get me in. thanks again

Workin' 4 Toys
06-13-2007, 11:30 AM
I appreciate the response to my 'disable' brakes post. I have an appointment to get the brakes looked at in the morning. At first it was a two week wait, but they are able to get me in. thanks again
Let us know what they find.