08-10-2010, 11:45 PM
I am trying to get the part number for a new steering cable. I have searched the thread and came up with nothing. Anyone got it on hand?
08-11-2010, 12:28 AM
Here's the one I put in my '00 230VRS. Should be the same (21-foot).
Copied and pasted a post I did on mymastercraft.com after I did it:
First, I turned the wheel all the way (starboard, I think) to collapse the old cable and bring the rudder attachment bolt within easy reach. At full lock, the steering wheel was upside down. I noted the position so when I installed the new cable with the rudder at full lock, the steering would be aligned the same way. I removed the 4 bolts from the steering column, dropped the storage bulkhead from the side of the engine, and disconnected the cable-to-rudder nut. Then I unscrewed the grease seal, removed it, and fed the old cable through the floor-mount tube/bracket thingy.
I was able to feed the old rack past the bulkhead into the bow and then attached a thin nylon ski rope to the rudder end of the cable. Just under the engine oil pan there's a zip tie that holds the depth finder tranducer wire to the steering cable. Snip it and then feed/yank the cable past the transmission/fuel filler. It's easier (obviously) if you pop off the center seat cushion and take out the cooler. The old cable will feed all the way under the fuel tank, but you absolutely will not be able to get it to feed all the way into the bulkhead from under the fuel tank. (if you pop out the bilge cover and look towards the captain's chair mount you'll clearly see where the bulkhead port the cable feeds into) The rudder end is solid steel and there's not enough clearance between the 60-gallon tank and the floor to allow it to make the angle.
I've read other posts on various forums of guys who got their cable installed without pulling the floor/fuel tank, but I'm betting they had older ProStars, etc. will smaller tanks and different cable types. Regardless, I had to remove some of the rear seat attachment screws, shim the rear seat up a bit, and then pull the floor out to get access to the fuel tank mounts. I only pulled the tank mount bracket next to the captain's chair. Even with a full 60-gallons I was able to lift the tank up enough with one hand to feed the cable in with the other. Note - I'm not a monster of a guy; the tank only needs a little twist/tweak to allow the cable to pass. It's frustrating that you have to go through all that work to tweak the tank such a little amount, but it is what it is. With the metal end through the port, I pulled the cable the rest of the way out.
I shortened the new cable as much as possible and then duct taped it so it wouldn't extend as I was pulling it back through. I fed it in through the bow, pulled the tank up again to feed the new cable's rudder end under the tank, and then easily pulled the cable back to the rudder attached everything, lubed it, and threw the floor/seats back together.
I'd guesstimate that if I didin't have to pull the floor up the whole job would've taken about 30-minutes. As is, it took several hours, a bunch of cuts to my hands and arms, and a nice collection of fiberglass splinters. I think if you've got the 60-gallon tank you'd better just start by pulling the floor. It'll save you some time in the end.
08-11-2010, 01:19 AM
Thanks for the info, now I can go to the lake and have someone else drive when I finally make it back home.