View Full Version : Trailer Tire Rubs

07-05-2005, 01:18 PM
On my 94 MC trailer one tire seems to stick out a little further than the other side. It it not bad, but it is noticeable. The good side is nicely tucked up under the fender and the bad side sticks out about 1/2 to 3/4 inch past the edge of the fender. This is no big deal except when I hit a big pothole at about 35-40 mph I do see a small "puff" of smoke from the tire hitting the fender. Another concern is when I go on vacation I usaully have some luggage and golf clubs in the boat and I think will make the problem worse. Here are my choices as I see it:

1. Install new springs, The spings are 11 years old and I would think they have some sag to them by now. Even one extra inch of lift would help alot.

2. Install 1 or 2 inch lifting blocks between the axle and spings for some extra lift and clearence.

3. Loosen the axle and move it over about 3/4 of an inch. I am not sure if the can be done because of the bolt/pins that go through the springs into the axle for alinement.

4. Try to redrill and move the fender on the bad side to move it out further

Has anyone ever had this problem? How did you deal with it?

Evan Jones
07-05-2005, 01:26 PM
The axle may have just slipped sideways on the leaf springs. If the U-bolts are loose, and the centering pin is worn out, you may be able to slide it back into place and be good to go.

07-05-2005, 01:51 PM
Are the tires the same size? Perhaps the one side is wider than the other causing it to rub on the fender. I had this problem with my previous trailer. I went to replace the tires and realized that the prior owner had put wider tires on the trailer.

07-05-2005, 01:54 PM
Tires are the same size 215/75/14.

07-05-2005, 02:49 PM
I had the same problem. I solved it by replacing the springs and putting lifting blocks between the axle and springs. This solved several problems for me. It kept the tire from hitting the wheelwell. 2. It prevented the spare tire from scraping on low spots. 3. and prevented the prop guard from scraping when I pulled out of my dryway. The trailor doesn't look quite as good jacked up like that but it was well worth it to prevent all that scraping.

07-05-2005, 02:57 PM
Why both blocks and new springs? Would the spings alone have lifted the trailer a little?

07-06-2005, 12:49 AM
Obviously you're not the only one with this issue...me too...reading the replies closely, keep them commng. :o

east tx skier
07-06-2005, 10:26 AM
I recall someone getting some replacement springs from Rambo Marine some time ago. You might give them a call. I put a 2" lift on my trailer last year for prop guard clearance reasons. I've had no problems launching and could probably get some 15" rims under there with no problems.

07-13-2005, 07:45 AM
When you install lifting bolcks is it as easy as looseing the u bolts and sliding in some kind of spacer or do you have to have the spacer welded in place?

What about the centering pin? was it long enough to go through the new lifting block?
I am thinking about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch lift, this can be done with the existing u bolts and should fix my problem. I just have to find a place to buy the material to use for the lifting blocks.

07-13-2005, 07:58 AM
I had that same problem. I did raise my fender with ¼” spacers but was afraid I would still hit on big dips. After that I added
¾ lift blocks, (and it is that easy) . I cut the ¾ stock into 2”x3” pcs. I did make them with “pins” in them by drilling all of the way through the center tapping and running a short, hardened bolt in, (the head was the “pin”) then enlarging the hole in opposite side (the side that I didn’t run the bolt in from). The purpose of the larger hole is to receive the existing pin..

Hope at least some of that made sense

07-13-2005, 08:06 AM
Makes perfect sense, thanks Mark.

I still may just replace the springs instead. I am assuming a set of new factory springs would give it some more lift.

07-13-2005, 08:08 AM
I still may just replace the springs instead. I am assuming a set of new factory springs would give it some more lift.
That’s most likely the best thing to do.

07-13-2005, 08:49 AM
Thanks for the info Mark, when you put in the 1 inch blocks were you still able to use the stock u bolts? That would be close.

07-13-2005, 08:58 AM

I just went and measured my leftover stock. Sorry, it is ¾. At ¾ you can use the same U bolts. I think 1” is too big for the same U bolts.

I added the lift blocks because it was quick and easy.

07-13-2005, 09:03 AM
Thanks for the help, I am going to check into new springs but I will also try to find a local machine shop that can make the 3/4" blocks as this would probably be easier and less expensive.
I am leaving on a family ski trip at the end of next week and would like to have it done before that.

07-13-2005, 09:05 AM
Mark, since I will ba looking for a machine shop and you have left over stock, what would you charge me to make a set?

07-13-2005, 09:08 AM
Actually, changing the springs wouldn’t be all that difficult either and could easily be done in the driveway. I didn’t look for springs because I came across the ¾ stock (by chance) first.

07-13-2005, 09:11 AM
I agree changing the springs would be pretty easy, my concern is the new springs will not be any higher than the old ones.
I am sure the old springs have settled over 11 years, but have they settled 3/4" ?

07-15-2005, 12:56 PM
Picked up the new springs yesterday, I just put one side in and it seems to have raise it about 3/4 inch. Well worth the 80 bucks for the new springs.

07-15-2005, 01:23 PM
Glad to hear it.

07-19-2005, 07:19 AM
For what it's worth - the axel on my '95 PS190 trailer is slightly dropped. What I mean is that the spindle is welded to the top of the square axel.

My weekend neighbor just replaced his bent axel with a new one. The new one was a true straight axel. Ended up giving him about 1.5 inches of lift. The entire new axel was $120.00 and easy to install.

Just another option.

07-19-2005, 07:25 AM
I never thought to look at that jimmer

07-19-2005, 10:31 AM
I never thought to look at that jimmer

me neither - till I saw it done.

Hmm... my trailer needs "aligned". Maybe instead of dropping close to 100.00 to get it fixed - I'll just drop a new axel on it?

08-08-2005, 06:33 PM
Added 1" shims or lifts to my 94PS205 trailer. The wheels would rub on the fenders when large pot holes or bumps. The fender actual ruined one wheel cause the fender sliced into the tire.

I added 1" shims under the springs and above the 1/4" shim that is welded to the axel. Need to get new U bolts that are a smige longer and slightly bent, because as you can see the shim was wider than the spring plate (above spring).

Lift Kit was $25 at the auto store and raised the trailer up 1". Other than rusty bolts it was a simple project.