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48nairb
07-02-2005, 10:35 PM
The "check engine" light is coming on regularly on my '03 Maristar 5.7L V8. If I stop and turn off the key for a sec, then restart it, the light stays off for awhile, but then comes back on usually when I increase rpm's to about 3000. I've noticed the oil pressure often runs at 80 psi too. Anybody have any ideas for me? And where can I get an inexpensive code reader? The local AutoZone quoted me $150. Thanks!

BG1772
07-03-2005, 11:17 AM
I believe that if you turn the key to the run positioin, but don't start the engine that the check engine light should start flashing. Count the flashes. For example it may flash once then pause and flash twice. This is telling you an error code. Once you know the error code, hopefully you will be able to determine where the problem is. The only problem is that I do not have a list of the error codes. However, I am sure that if Engine Nut is out there , he will be able to tell you.

I do not believe that boats use the same connection for reading error codes as cars, so a code reader from autozone probably wont work. Check out www.rinda.com for a marine code reader

48nairb
07-04-2005, 05:41 PM
First of all, thanks to BG1771 for the quick response. Here's the latest: I turned the key to the "run" position, but the light didn't flash any codes--it just remained on constantly. I was told that disconnecting the battery for a few seconds might reset it, but I tried that and it didn't help. I took the boat out today for several hours and it runs great, but once the rpm's hit 3000-3200 and stay there for a few seconds, the "check engine" light comes back on and stays on until I turn off the key. Then, when I restart, the light stays off until the rpms reach 3000 again. I even cruised for nearly 30 minutes at 2800 rpms with the light staying off, but once I increased rpms the light came back on. The only guage reading I worry about is the oil pressure, which stays at about 40 psi while at wakeless speeds, but climbs up to 80 and stays there while cruising. Is that normal? The temperature guage stays between 155 and 160 after warrm-up, so the engine isn't getting hot. I just don't know if 80 psi oil pressure is too high. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks in advance!

Kell
07-04-2005, 05:49 PM
99 Maristar 210, and my oil pressure reads 40 at idle and 80 at higher rpms, just as you have described. I would think this is normal and I would only be concerned if the oil pressure dropped which could mean other issues. I don't know why your engine light comes on after reaching 3000 rpms, but I would check the tranny fluid level and make sure it is at the correct level when warm. Have you checked that?

BG1772
07-04-2005, 05:55 PM
I agree that 80psi is not bad when the engine is running at higher rpms. I would have to guess that whatever is trigering the check engine light is something that does not register an event in the computer memory, which is why the check engine light is not giving you an error code when you turn the key to run. It almost seems that you need to run the engine with a diagnostics computer connected.

48nairb
07-04-2005, 06:14 PM
I have not checked the tranny fluid level because I don't know where to do that. The boat didn't come with an owners manual, so I'm a little handicapped trying to figure this stuff out. I've noticed two hex-head bolts on the front of the tranny box--one high and one low. Do I just open the top one and see if oil comes out? Or is there a dipstick that I just haven't found? Thanks again!

ski36short
07-04-2005, 08:46 PM
Your check engine light probably won't come on due to something like a fluid level issue, more likely it's something electrical. The only reason mine ever came on was because the knock sensor was disconnected and it only came on at higher RPMs like you indicated. Perhaps a quick check of the wiring in the engine bay would be in order just looking for simple things like that.

If it's like a car, it's supposed to come on with the key in the run position just for a bulb check.

Kell
07-05-2005, 08:37 PM
I have not checked the tranny fluid level because I don't know where to do that. The boat didn't come with an owners manual, so I'm a little handicapped trying to figure this stuff out. I've noticed two hex-head bolts on the front of the tranny box--one high and one low. Do I just open the top one and see if oil comes out? Or is there a dipstick that I just haven't found? Thanks again!

48nairb,
Since you have a 2003 Maristar, my tranny could be different. I have a Hurth tranney and I think MC used both Hurth and Borg-Warner transmissions. On my Hurth, there is a red short dip stick that I unscrew to check the tranny level. It is located on the right side of the engine (facing towards the bow), just under the air intake. It is hard to get to, and I usually have to crawl in the rear compartment to get access to it. I would also suggest emailing MC and having them send you a copy of the 2003 owners manual so you have it. You can download the 2004 manual off this site (click on the downloads link, then manuals), which I just did and if you look at page 17-10, you can see where the red dip stick is, which appears to be the same as my 99 Maristar. You mentioned two hex bolts, and I don't see those on my tranny, so I suspect that you may have a Borg-Warner tranny, but to be honest, I'm not an expert either. I may have a picture of my tranny dip stick, which I'll upload, but I'm at work now so I don't have access. [I uploaded the pic, see the blue line which points to the tranny dip stick.] The 2004 manual does not really tell you what the red check engine light means, other than if it stays on, you should take it to a MC dealer for trouble shooting. It does mention that it should come on when the key is first turned to verify the bulb is working as suggested above. Sorry I can't be of more assistance.

Kell
07-07-2005, 06:48 PM
48nairb,

I forgot to mention that you can download the Indmar engine owners manual here. http://www.indmar.com/support/manual_download.cfm

In the manual that covers 2003 model years, page 4-5 and 4-6 provides some general information about the check engine light and check transmission light (if you have a Walters V-Drive). For check engine light, it states that the light may activate if (i) low oil pressure, (ii) high coolant temp, and (iii) high transmission oil temp. It also states that the a check transmission light are equipped with Walters V-Drive transmissions. In my prior email, I told you Borg-Warner. Sorry I can't keep all this stuff straight.

In any event, if you have a Walters V-Drive tranny, the manual states that the check transmission light will go on and stay lit at idle and slow speed operation until enough pressue is produced (1200 RPM +/- 400 RPM). If it stays lit above 2000 RPM, it states to take it to a dealer. This still does not provide you with any guidance as to why your check engine light comes on at 3000 RPM +.

Also, if you take a look at pages 6-11 through 6-13, you'll see some diagrams of both the ZF Hurth and Walters V-Drive trannys and how to change and check tranny fluid level.

Can you tell if you have a ZF Hurth or Walters V-Drive? Can you tell if you have two lights, e.g., check engine and check transmission? If so, it would be helpful to know and perhaps other members more informative than myself can provide you with more troubleshooting tips.

Hope you find this helpful. Good luck.

48nairb
07-12-2005, 12:38 AM
First of all, thanks to all of you who took the time to give me advice and help me try to solve this problem. None of the suggestions fixed the problem, and I had only two days before the boat was leaving for a four-day trip, so I towed it to the local Mastercraft dealer where they diagnosed and replaced a faulty "knock" sensor. The sensor retards engine timing when the engine "pings" or "knocks" from fuel with too low of an octane rating. We were using the right fuel, but the sensor went bad and gave an incorrect reading at speeds above 3000 rpms. So, we're all fixed up and I hope that this may help someone else. Thanks again to all of you!

JimN
07-12-2005, 07:33 AM
FYI- turning the key ON and not starting will not show codes and if it is put in diagnostic mode, the light flashing once, then twice just shows the status. 12 is not a code and will be the first and last flashes, with any actual codes between(kind of like bookends). As far as I know, there aren't any aftermarket diagnostic tools available.

PendO
07-24-2005, 12:35 AM
I was reading your post on Team Talk and we are having a simmilar problem with our 04 X-Star, L-18. The boat worked fine when it was put away and winterized by the dealer last fall, then the first time out this year (a few months ago) we had the check engine light problem. Initially they diagnosed it as a knock sensor, so they replaced the Knock Sensor as that was one of the initial codes, and we still had a problem, we went to a smaller prop just for the heck of it, and the problem only occurred at higher RPM's, last week they just sent the ECM (Electric Control Module ?) in to Indmar to update it, and we took it to the water today and are having the same problem with the stock prop ... check engine came on at 3000 RMP's, 6 people in the boat, no ballast ... still, I was wondering if the replacement of your knock sensor fixed the problem completely for you, otherwise our M/C dealers may need to get together and chat in the service dept. I will take our boat in next week and see what code is now. I know that one of the codes they had previously gotten was in the low 80's, and their book did not even go that high ... anyway, any info you could give on how your problem was fixed would be very helpful. Also, am I reading the other messages correctly that only the M/C service center can read the codes?

Sincerely,
Casey

JimN
07-24-2005, 09:52 AM
Updating an ECM is somethng all MC dealers should be able to do. Most of the updates (programs) are either e-mailed to the dealer or they can be downloaded from the dealer section of Indmar and MC's sites. The only things the dealer would need is a computer (easiest with a laptop), the correct software and someone who is capable of selecting the right file, then clicking on the download icon. If there was something about the ECM that actually needed to be checked out, I can see why they sent it in. Otherwise, if it just needed a recal, it should stay in the boat.

PendO
07-24-2005, 11:44 AM
Jim, we too were surprised that it needed to be sent to Indmar / and that there was not an easier way to plug it in and "flash" any updates. We're kinda at a loss. Without trailering it back to the shop I can only guess that the knock sensor is still detecting something it does not like ... all last year we used 89 octane, and it was fine, as that was one of the reasons we got the L-18 vs. the LQ9. Is it strange that a change in props would effect when the change engine light comes on. Ultimately the problem still exists, but with the smaller prop on we were only able to dupliate the problem once (ballast loaded, turning a corner with a wakeboarder on line). If it were a knock sensor issue wouldn't the problem occur at the same RPM's, regardless of what prop was on?

Thanks for any suggestions.

JimN
07-24-2005, 12:49 PM
It wouldn't necessarily be at all RPM since the timing advance increases with RPM increase, load and throttle position. If the ECM detects knock, it pulls the advance back in 5 degree increments till it goes away, down to the base timing setting. I would be tempted to check the ignition control module and spark plugs for the color of the deposits. If one cylinder is too hot, it creates a lean condition and if there are carbon deposits on the piston or head, detonation(pre-ignition, in this case) can occur, causing knock. I would also look at the coolant temperature sensor. If this erroneously reads a high temperature, it reduces the fuel delivered and can cause problems.

Leroy
07-24-2005, 01:05 PM
Come on JimN, when will MC have the USB option so we can all plug in and see what's going on under the deck? :D

JimN
07-24-2005, 02:00 PM
Probably never, but what would the average boat owner do with that information?

Seriously, the more people who can access the info, the higher the chance that someone will try to change something they probably shouldn't. It's nice to be able to see what's going on, but the software and interface cable are proprietary and they can get whatever they ask for them (the writer/manufacturer of the package, not Indmar or MC). To be honest, there isn't that much info, anyway. It just makes it easier for a tech (preferably one who has been properly trained) to diagnose the problem(s) and get the boat back out on the water without long delays and expense to the customer that's tied to the tech's inablilty to troubleshoot.

Obviously, there are good techs out there and I don't want to make it sound like there aren't. The training classes are specifically for raising the average competency level, which makes it possible to decrease the downtime of the boats they work on.

Leroy
07-24-2005, 02:17 PM
You are right. Most of what a diagnostic tool would tell 95% of the boat owners would mean very little. But it would be fun to use I think if a good windows interface was available!

I'm picturing more info being available than probably is! You know, "Hey the fuel pump is out and it is located .... and you need to take 3 screws out with philips screwdriver. Order p/n 1234 and you'll be skiing again soon!!!!!!"

erkoehler
07-24-2005, 02:23 PM
i guess that option will only be in the dream boat thread! :D

JimN
07-24-2005, 04:22 PM
Dream on. :headbang:

Besides, wouldn't you rather have it Bluetooth enabled?

Leroy
07-24-2005, 04:38 PM
Now you are really teasing me!

JimN
07-24-2005, 05:21 PM
And if you had the right software, you could see what's happening on your BlackBerry.

Bondo
07-20-2010, 11:11 PM
I have a 1999 Maristar 230 my check engine light also come on around 3000 rpm. I jumped the AB teriminals on th ALDL connector the code came up with 4 blinks I think it is either code 13 or 4 does anyone know where I can get the information to figure out what this code means so that I can get the correct part to fix the problem

JimN
07-20-2010, 11:44 PM
I have a 1999 Maristar 230 my check engine light also come on around 3000 rpm. I jumped the AB teriminals on th ALDL connector the code came up with 4 blinks I think it is either code 13 or 4 does anyone know where I can get the information to figure out what this code means so that I can get the correct part to fix the problem

It flashes 12 three times and then flashes the number of any stored codes. There's no 13 code. Do it again and wait until the 12 sequence is done before anything else. If it just shows 12 and never shows any others, you have no stored codes.

The light may be for oil pressure.

Bondo
07-21-2010, 12:15 AM
The check engine light flashes 12 three times the flashes 4 six times then 12 three times.
any help thanks.

JimN
07-21-2010, 08:03 AM
The check engine light flashes 12 three times the flashes 4 six times then 12 three times.
any help thanks.

Which motor- TBI or LTR?

Bondo
07-24-2010, 06:51 PM
LTR 5.7 liter

ricky365
08-01-2010, 01:16 AM
where is the knock sensor located?

ricky365
08-01-2010, 01:30 AM
where is the knock sensor located?

ricky365
08-01-2010, 01:37 AM
where is the knock sensor located?

JimN
08-01-2010, 08:31 AM
Just above the oil pan and IIRC, same side as the starter. It has a dark blue wire and a black plastic connector on the end. The other side of the motor has a drain plug in a similar location.

Yup- that's code 44 and I'm sorry I forgot about that one. It's possible that the wire wasn't connected- 44 means the ECM isn't hearing anything from the motor, at all.