I am stumped!

[6ballsisall]

Need advice here:

Talked to Vince on Thursday, if anyone remembers my saga, in short I ran the boat out of gas and sucked up lots of junk thru the tank. In short, I have replaced the fuel filter, tested the fuel pump, just put ANOTHER brand new carburetor on it, and things are getting better. At this point it will start but only if I give it some gas from a dead start (this is all out of the water) However, I can't keep it running and when it dies a sizeable amount of dark colored smoke emits from the top of the carburetor. Here is what I have fiddled with today:

Moved distributor around each way a few degrees, it seems if I go counter clockwise from where it was (i believe that retards it) it starts better.
Vince recommended I check the coil to see if power was getting to it. With the key on and motor not running it sits at 4.5 volts and as soon as I try and start it, it goes all over the board. Meter testing done from the negative and positive posts on the coil.
I pulled the #1 spark plug and it had ALOT of fuel on it, I pulled # 6 and it did as well but maybe not as much.
What gives guys? Need advice here!

[JEREMY79]

Tear it down. Bump it on up to about 500 hp :purplaugh

[6ballsisall]

That would be nice but Hey I want to get out on the water NOW, not months from now! :D I just called you Jeremy, call me back when you can (left you vmail)

[6ballsisall]

I am almost feeling like its electrical. If the plugs are wet then they are getting fuel, but somehow not getting spark. Anyone else agree?

Signed,

Stumped MC owner :rolleyes:

[Cloaked]

Tear it down. Bump it on up to about 500 hp Wise guy here.... ^ ^ :D



Carb air adjustments?? Timing (which you are working with now)?

Or as you said, a foul plug or wire.... :huh:


I'm stumped too.... :confused:

Where's Enginenut whan ya' need him??? :huh:

[6ballsisall]

The coil seems awful suspicous at this point. Early morning testing tommorow should reveal alot!

[Jerseydave]

If you're getting a backfire or "black smoke" from the carb, sounds like a timing problem.Could be valve timing (timing chain jumped?)
Check your play in the timing chain by turning the bolt on the front of the crankshaft with a breaker bar while watching the dist. rotor.
they should move together, if not your in need of a new timing chain.
I assume you have double checked everything like points, condenser, ignition timing with a timing light.
As far as coil voltage goes, I think one side of the coil is supposed to have 12 volts with key on.(I forget which side)
Does your ignition system have a ballast resistor? (like old mopars)
If it does and its bad, that could be a problem. (they are cheap)

Good luck and keep us posted.

[Brent]

My carb is being rebuilt , but when I first contacted my mechanic , he thought it could have been a problem with the electric choke , check that out! My 87 PS 190 had a carb rebuild before I bought it, only problem was they neglected to put back some of the float springs, hence my problems!

[redmike]

sorry to hear about your issues....I would suspect that the carb is flooding your plugs; if you are still running that edelbrock, pull the top off, and look at the needle and seat; could have a little something in it (
VERY common on Holleys) or check the float level. Hope this gets you back on the water with little or no hassle!!!!

[6ballsisall]

New Information, I know realize the coil I have had on the boat for about 5-7 hours was possibly the wrong style coil. It is a Mallory Coil made for Electronic Ignition

Here is a link to the exact coil I have

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3541&prmenbr=361

I bought the first one. Perhaps that could be the problem. I have had issues with the coil getting extremely hot, to the point where I did burn my hand touching it. I wonder if I burned the coil out? Also, I have searched and searched and can't seem to find the ballast resistor. Where would it be?

[tph]

Also, I have searched and searched and can't seem to find the ballast resistor. Where would it be?

It's in a white ceramic block located under the grey plastic Pleasurecraft cover on the back of the engine. It's near the red button for the 50A circuit breaker.

[redmike]

if you go to auto parts store,there is an internally resisted coil so you don't need a resistor. just another option....

[pilot02]

You didn't mention, but I'm assuming you have points. If so, the voltage at the coil should be about 9-10 volts while running. 4.5 is way too low. When you crank the engine, voltage should go to 12+ as the ballast resistor is bypassed during the cranking process. Get the voltage correct, then check dwell angle, and timing. Sounds like your running way rich, but sounds like an ignition issue more than carb to me.

[6ballsisall]

Well shucks, I bought a new coil today and slapped it on there, no such luck! I might fiddle with it some more later but it ain't looking good for being on the water on the 4th. I am not so sure I have a ballast resistor, I looked around again and can't find it anywhere. When I mentioned voltage at the coil was 4.5 volts that is when I just turn the key in the on position with boat not running. I actually cannot keep it or make it run. When I try cranking the motor voltage runs all over the place from 12-25 volts?? I will check this evening to see if I am really getting good spark to the wires. It seems wierd the only way I can make it turnover and catch is if I have it throttled a little prior to starting and left there when starting. It will catch then, run for a few seconds and thats' all she wrote! :mad:

Need advice please!!

[6ballsisall]

Please help!! Hoping to get the boat on teh water tommorrow evening to watch the fireworks

I pulled the #1 plug and grounded it out to the block, I do have spark there. Heres a wierd one, when I pulled the plug and grounded it out and turned it over it RAN!! Continously until I scrambled to turn it off. I still can't manage to get 12 volts power to the coil. After messing with some leads I did pick up 2 volts giving me 6.5 volts while in the on position not running, when you turn it over it exceeds 12 volts after a few seconds of cranking. I tested the key switch, 12.5 volts of juice to it no problem. I pulled off the fuel line and turned the engine over, fuel freely flows out.

Need advice please!

[Leroy]

Still sounds like something in the primary circuit Jeff. I believe the ballast resistor is bypassed when you are starting and when running you should have 8-9 volts, true? Sounds like your ballast resistor may not be the right value or another poor connection, in that case, did you measure to see if it is the right value.

The funny thing is why would grounding a plug wire make it run since that is connected to an open distributor cap basically???

Checked out all the resistances, primary, secondary, etc?

Hope you get it going!!!

[6ballsisall]

Still sounds like something in the primary circuit Jeff. I believe the ballast resistor is bypassed when you are starting and when running you should have 8-9 volts, true? Sounds like your ballast resistor may not be the right value or another poor connection, in that case, did you measure to see if it is the right value.

The funny thing is why would grounding a plug wire make it run since that is connected to an open distributor cap basically???

Checked out all the resistances, primary, secondary, etc?

Hope you get it going!!!

What and where should I test resistances? I have confirmed at this point that there is not an external ballast resistor as some have said located on the back of their engines. Mine has been removed by the Prior owner.

[Cloaked]

What and where should I test resistances? I have confirmed at this point that there is not an external ballast resistor as some have said located on the back of their engines. Mine has been removed by the Prior owner.I'd put it back in line unless you plan on converting over to the electronic kit. Nonetheless, you need the resistor with points. Are the springs and the mechanical weights in the distributor bowl in place? Man I'm just grasping for straws here...

[BriEOD]

It doesn't get you on the water Jeff, but I would order an electronic ignition kit.

[6ballsisall]

Well I figured it out! It was the points, even after testing the gap they had moved some and were a little corroded. I reset the gap to .20 and cleaned off the points. It ran! Unfortunately, it ran really bad, but it will run continously. Got it back to our dock though. The positive is we will be on the water on the fourth for the HOA firework show, the downside is we will be tied off to the dock! :rolleyes: I am fed up at this point. I tore into the "incredible" :rolleyes: wiring job the previous owner had done on the harness and clearly he had about 10 to many beers to be working on electrical stuff. At this point I am taking it to a garage and plan on having the boat completely rewired. This crap has got to go! Any idea on how many hours that might take a boat mechanic?

Thanks for all the advice everyone! Have a safe fourth!

[Hoosier Bob]

Amen! Points got no business in the water! As far as wiring, anything electrical can be an issue if there is trouble shooting. I would look into buying a complete wiring harness and doing it myself. If MC does not have it a boat salvage may. New is best. Good luck and remember Mastercrafts sit pretty too!It doesn't get you on the water Jeff, but I would order an electronic ignition kit.

[JEREMY79]

Buy a wiring harness :huh: I just bought rolls of colored wire a case of beer and went to town. I have four wires going to my engine. (not counting the sending units).

[Cloaked]

Buy a wiring harness :huh: I just bought rolls of colored wire a case of beer and went to town. I would never ever laugh at you my friend, but that struck me funny.

I'm thinking it was this ==> :huh: <== that made my day..... :D

[JEREMY79]

Sporty, I am here for your enjoyment.
:huh: :huh: :huh: :huh:

but seriously. thats what I did. I just bought my wire and sat down and ran them one at a time where I wanted. Now my wiring harnes is four wires.