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titleist93mc
07-06-2010, 02:45 PM
I would like to start my first project on my 93 prostar. I have a head unit that was in the boat when I bought it (minus the faceplate). I was thinking of finding out the make and model of this unit and seeing if I can find a replacement face for it, unless it will not be operable with an ipod. Also, there are no speakers in the boat as of now. I am looking for a medium budget 4 speaker system that I can install myself. Anyone have any suggestions for a mid-nineties prostar. I would like it to be fairly tidy and hidden. Also, I believe I can just tap straight into the battery and not have a seperate battery etc. Thanks for everyone's help here on the board!

JD

east tx skier
07-06-2010, 03:25 PM
JVC makes a nice, inexpensive, single din ipod controlling head unit for about $120. The Polk DB651 speakers are great for the price (check the Polk Direct store on ebay).

A nice 5 channel Amp and Sub would round out the system nicely.

BNIROOSTER
07-06-2010, 07:17 PM
i agree with tx, the db651s are a great starter with great sound...seen a new pair on ebay for $47.

ccelia
07-06-2010, 08:06 PM
i would recommend the db651s as well. I just installed four in my prostar with a 4 channel amp and I was definitely impressed with the speakers after I hooked them up to the amp. I think I got all four of mine for about $90 online. Search around and you can find some great prices.

titleist93mc
07-07-2010, 08:58 AM
Thanks for the input guys. As far as hooking everything up, do you guys reccommend a spot for amp mounting? I think I can handle most of the hookup, just curious as to where to place things. I guess I will wire amp directly to the battery? Thanks again.

JD

east tx skier
07-07-2010, 10:22 AM
Yes, wire the amp directly to the battery and put inline fuses on the positive line. Spring for some good wiring for the power and for the speakers, especially if it's a long run. My closed bow has a hump in front of the driver's feet. I have my amp mounted to a board that is held vertical by brackets mounted to the floor. The sub box is on the other side of the amp firing toward the starboard side of the hull under the bow. You can also mount them on the divider between the driver's footwell and the bow storage or on the kickboard. Just keep it off the carpet and mount it so that it can cool properly (usually upright as opposed to flat on its back depending on brand).

Another option is to get some starboard or plywood that you treat with resin and glue it to the port side of the hull under the bow (behind the carpet). Then, mount your amp to that.

mayo93prostar
07-07-2010, 10:28 AM
I put a stereo in my 93 prostar and there are wires under the dash to power it. However, probably not sized large enough for an amp. plus the power is on when key is on or in accessory position, which was fine for me. plus there is a wire for the clock/memory input, under the dash. you could put the amp on the wall between the drivers leg area and the storage area under the front, assuming it is a closed bow. there were holes cut out already for the speakers in the rear of mine but I am not sure if there were ones up front, in the combing pads.

east tx skier
07-07-2010, 10:38 AM
There ought to be cutouts for four speakers. The head unit should be fine just tapping into the wiring for the old stereo. Part of that harness should contain a blue remote wire so that the amp will only power on when the head unit is on.

ramzak
07-10-2010, 02:21 AM
Check out my Resto thread under "other". I am giving away free West Marine Speakers for who ever wants them. 2 pair.

titleist93mc
10-19-2010, 11:03 AM
So I am bumping this thread because I am now getting close to the install of the stereo. I am still debating a couple of issues and wanted some input/feedback.

1. Clarion M309 - I think this is a good head unit for my application. Have not purchased, so would welcome any thoughts on other units. Want to have basic Ipod connection and the ability to upgrade some things later.
2. Polk db651s - in the mail to me.
3. Debating a 4 channel amp to send a little more power to the speakers.

I don't have to have a super loud stereo etc., just something with some decent sound quality. I have also debated possibly adding a sub later, but at this point I don't plan to. A question is should I go ahead with a 5 channel or just do the 4 channel and possibly a separate amp for the sub if I do that later down the road? Also, what kind of difference will I experience with adding an amp for the 4 speakers?

I have never hooked up stereo stuff before but I am pretty handy, and I really don't think this DIY will be very difficult. What I would like some input on is simple install instructions/schematic. Also, what type of wire should I be running from the stereo to speakers/stereo to amp/amp to battery/speakers.

Looking forward to this project!

JD

Tealchevy
10-19-2010, 11:11 AM
I have just installed the 309. Testing tomorrow on the sound end of it with no amp. And I would definitely go ahead with the 5 channel now.

Starshack
10-19-2010, 11:33 AM
I am in process on my 1992 PS 190. I liked the Sony Marine head unit which has a dedicated Ipod cable and is compatible with the iPhone ($169). I have 4 Polk speakers plus a 5 channel Kicker Amp plus a 10" Kicker sub (marine version comes in a plastic enclosure). Should be completed this weekend. I would definitely get a 5 channel amp as you eventually will want to add a sub. I am also moving the battery from the rear (terrible location!) to the well under the observer seat which will make for a short power run to the amp. Use 4 gauge cable on the amp as this will decrease the draw on your battery significantly - also do not run the power wires anywhere near the speaker or RCA cables.

supturb89
10-19-2010, 11:48 AM
I am in process on my 1992 PS 190. I liked the Sony Marine head unit which has a dedicated Ipod cable and is compatible with the iPhone ($169). I have 4 Polk speakers plus a 5 channel Kicker Amp plus a 10" Kicker sub (marine version comes in a plastic enclosure). Should be completed this weekend. I would definitely get a 5 channel amp as you eventually will want to add a sub. I am also moving the battery from the rear (terrible location!) to the well under the observer seat which will make for a short power run to the amp. Use 4 gauge cable on the amp as this will decrease the draw on your battery significantly - also do not run the power wires anywhere near the speaker or RCA cables.

Is this (http://www.kicker.com/skm10) the sub you are referring to? I would be very interested in your feedback on the sound quality/build quality. I'm thinking that is exactly what I need. Also, what kicker amp do you have? Thanks mate!

Starshack
10-19-2010, 12:05 PM
That is it - seems very durable and comes with mounting brackets which enable you to mount it firing down which will protect the speaker cone or up depending on what sounds better. Here is the Amp. http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/4711442/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046 Got them both for $450 delivered to ATL. Should sound incredible - power amp and sub make all the difference (I have done 6 or so car/boat stereo installations). Here is the link to the Sony head unit. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18603_Sony+CDX-M60Ui+Xplod+Marine.html

supturb89
10-19-2010, 12:15 PM
Thanks for the link. I currently have pretty much that same Sony headunit in the non-marine version along with 4 polk db651's. Looking to add an amp and sub. I think I may have found what I was looking for. Thanks!

bxroads
10-19-2010, 12:39 PM
FWIW, a sub makes all the difference in the world. I recently went the following route. It absolutely rocks and was less than $700 (purchased all on ebay). I definitely recommend a good 5 channel amp vs two separate amps. The Alpine PDX-5 class D rocks and is very small! Class D amps are much more efficient and are good for single battery applications.



$87 JL Audio 10W0v2-4 10"
$345 ALPINE PDX-5
$245 Polk MM651s - total for two pairs (the MM's are an upgrade to the DB's).

$677 shipped total

Starshack
10-19-2010, 12:41 PM
I had an 89 before my 92 with a similar setup and it sounded great and was the "closer" when I sold the boat. 89 battery is in a good location. Crutchfield sells 4 gauge wire by the foot and it will save you $$$ over a predone kit as you will only need 5' or so - make sure to put an inline fuse close to the battery - these amps draw a lot of power and the less resistance the better. You might want to consider an Optima battery.

Kyle
10-19-2010, 12:43 PM
Get a 4 channel amp and later if you want to add a sub get a mono 2 channel amp. Make sure to go with an amp that has the watts and ohms that you have with your speakers. You probably have common 4ohms so that is not going to be a big deal. Just dont put 500watts to a 50 watt speaker, or 25 watts to a 125 watt speaker. You get the drift.

Wire each speaker wire to the 4 channel amp. Obviously there is a channel for Left or Right and Front and Back, just read your instructions. Use an amp install kit from where you buy your amp for the power wire, ground wire, remote wire, and fuse. It comes with a thicker wire for pos and neg to the amp. Remote wire will hook up to remote wire on the back of the head unit. Hook RCA from head unit to amp. Turn on your new tunes.

To set your crossover on amp your speaker instructions will tell you where to set the amp and then you can play with it from there.

To set your gain, turn the head unit up all of the way and the amp gain all of the way down. Then start adding gain on amp until it starts to distort (with the head unit up all of the way still). When you start to get distortion back it down a hair. Now you can be positive that you will never damage the speaker due to distortion. If you listen to your system at a moderate level just turn the headunit to what ever listening level you choose and enjoy. There is no need to adjust your amp anylonger. Do the same thing later if you choose to install a sub. A sub in your boat will sound great.....



1- 12" JL W6 subwoofer in a Super Bass box
6- 7.7 JL Coax speakers
2- 5.25" JL Coax speakers in the dash by windshield.
3- Optima batteries
1- Alpine headunit
2- Alpine 4 channel amps
1- Alpine 2 channel mono amp

All in a 93 190. It is super loud.

supturb89
10-19-2010, 12:54 PM
1- 12" JL W6 subwoofer in a Super Bass box
6- 7.7 JL Coax speakers
2- 5.25" JL Coax speakers in the dash by windshield.
3- Optima batteries
1- Alpine headunit
2- Alpine 4 channel amps
1- Alpine 2 channel mono amp

All in a 93 190. It is super loud.
__________________
Rollin Gangsta Style

you aren't kidding!!:)

Starshack
10-19-2010, 12:55 PM
Good advice but amplifier power is like torque - never can have enough. The less your amp has to work the less distortion you will have (exponentially). Wattage is deceptive as at the top rating the harmonic distortion is very high.

Kyle
10-19-2010, 12:58 PM
you aren't kidding!!:)


TayMc190 on here started the whole thing Rollin Gangsta Style back on the trip some of us made it to Broken Bow. He said from my seat in my Avalanche and the system in my boat that should be my signature.

There are pics in my albums in my profile if anyone wants to look. It was an easy install that I did by myself.

Starshack
10-19-2010, 01:25 PM
Very nice installation. A couple of questions - 1. Was there a reason you did not use the well under the observer seat for the batteries? 2. Is the sub just sitting up front or is it fastened down?

titleist93mc
10-19-2010, 02:04 PM
You guys have given some awesome input so far, but also, I see my bill continuing to grow as I hear new ideas. I am trying to stay under the $500 range (including 4 channel amp and wiring). Anyone know how long of a run I would have to have from the observer's set area to the stock battery box? I am thinking 15 ft. Anyone recommend a wiring package for a 4 channel and speaker wire as well? I would love to do the sub and I might be able to throw another $500 in and add it later. Any thoughts on a 4 channel? I am looking at ebay etc. Ok, final question - any thoughts between the clarion m309 and the alpine x-100M. I know the alpine will be a better unit - but is it worth the extra $?

JD

Starshack
10-19-2010, 02:12 PM
IMO you should move the battery - bad location - you can reuse the tie down - I think the existing cables will reach from the motor - then you have a very short run to the Amp and eliminate any chance of interference with speaker wire - take a look at Kyle's pictures - it was a top notch install.

gaz46
10-19-2010, 04:17 PM
Sorry to jump in on this!!! im hoping to do a similar install on my 86 skier... i would be interested to know where you guys have mounted your head units?????

east tx skier
10-19-2010, 04:35 PM
Get a 4 channel amp and later if you want to add a sub get a mono 2 channel amp. Make sure to go with an amp that has the watts and ohms that you have with your speakers. You probably have common 4ohms so that is not going to be a big deal. Just dont put 500watts to a 50 watt speaker, or 25 watts to a 125 watt speaker. You get the drift.

Wire each speaker wire to the 4 channel amp. Obviously there is a channel for Left or Right and Front and Back, just read your instructions. Use an amp install kit from where you buy your amp for the power wire, ground wire, remote wire, and fuse. It comes with a thicker wire for pos and neg to the amp. Remote wire will hook up to remote wire on the back of the head unit. Hook RCA from head unit to amp. Turn on your new tunes.

To set your crossover on amp your speaker instructions will tell you where to set the amp and then you can play with it from there.

To set your gain, turn the head unit up all of the way and the amp gain all of the way down. Then start adding gain on amp until it starts to distort (with the head unit up all of the way still). When you start to get distortion back it down a hair. Now you can be positive that you will never damage the speaker due to distortion. If you listen to your system at a moderate level just turn the headunit to what ever listening level you choose and enjoy. There is no need to adjust your amp anylonger. Do the same thing later if you choose to install a sub. A sub in your boat will sound great.....



1- 12" JL W6 subwoofer in a Super Bass box
6- 7.7 JL Coax speakers
2- 5.25" JL Coax speakers in the dash by windshield.
3- Optima batteries
1- Alpine headunit
2- Alpine 4 channel amps
1- Alpine 2 channel mono amp

All in a 93 190. It is super loud.

I basically did this, but only turned my head unit to 75% to do the tuning. I also did the dual amps (4 chan and 2 chan), but later opted for a 5 channel to save some space under the bow.

BNIROOSTER
10-19-2010, 05:23 PM
2-4 GAUGE POWER WIRE TO A FUSED DISTRIBUTION BLOCK
8 GUAGE FROM DISTRIBUTION BLOCK TO AMP/AMPS AS LONG AS YOU KEEP EM SHORT <3.5 FEET
12 GAUGE SPEAKER WIRE FROM THE AMP
IMO a 4 channel amp and a monoblock amp (both 2 ohm stable) for the sub is a better solution than a 5 channel amp.


2 MTX AUDIO JH-1200
3 ROCKFORD FOSGATE T-600
2 ALPINE 1243D 12" DOWNWARD FIRING SUBS @ 1 OHM IN THE BACK
2 ALPINE 1043D 10" SUBS @ 2 OHMS IN THE DOGHOUSE
2 ALPINE 1043D 10" SUBS @ 2 OHMS UNDER THE OBSERVER AND DRIVER
4 KRYPT AUDIO HLCD 6.5s ON THE TOWER
2 KRYPT AUDIO HLCD 8s ON THE TOWER
4 WET SOUND XS-650-S IN BOAT
200 AMP BALMER ALTERNATOR
2 TROJAN T-105 GOLF CART BATTERIES

Starshack
10-19-2010, 05:28 PM
The newer boats (90 on) have slots built in for the head unit. On my 89 PS I mounted it behind the flip up back on the observer seat. Most people on the old S&S mount under the dash somewhere - West Marine, Overton's etc sell well designed boxes that can be mounted to hold the head unit. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=101741&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=10103&subdeptNum=10333&classNum=11108

Starshack
10-19-2010, 05:33 PM
I am surprised that BNIROOSTER does not need a generator to power all that stuff - must sound great! He is right about the amp but if you want to save a few $$ and some space a good 5 channel will work fine for most applications.

BNIROOSTER
10-19-2010, 05:45 PM
I am surprised that BNIROOSTER does not need a generator to power all that stuff - must sound great! He is right about the amp but if you want to save a few $$ and some space a good 5 channel will work fine for most applications.

...Forgot to post the TROJAN T-105 golf cart batteries and the 200 amp Balmar alternator!!!

Starshack
10-19-2010, 05:59 PM
Figured as much! What is the boat? - looks similar to mine 92 PS w/ tandem axle trailer

BNIROOSTER
10-20-2010, 05:12 AM
Figured as much! What is the boat? - looks similar to mine 92 PS w/ tandem axle trailer

2001 X9 Also with a tandem

Kyle
10-20-2010, 12:26 PM
2-4 GAUGE POWER WIRE TO A FUSED DISTRIBUTION BLOCK
8 GUAGE FROM DISTRIBUTION BLOCK TO AMP/AMPS AS LONG AS YOU KEEP EM SHORT <3.5 FEET
12 GAUGE SPEAKER WIRE FROM THE AMP
IMO a 4 channel amp and a monoblock amp (both 2 ohm stable) for the sub is a better solution than a 5 channel amp.


2 MTX AUDIO JH-1200
3 ROCKFORD FOSGATE T-600
2 ALPINE 1243D 12" DOWNWARD FIRING SUBS @ 1 OHM IN THE BACK
2 ALPINE 1043D 10" SUBS @ 2 OHMS IN THE DOGHOUSE
2 ALPINE 1043D 10" SUBS @ 2 OHMS UNDER THE OBSERVER AND DRIVER
4 KRYPT AUDIO HLCD 6.5s ON THE TOWER
2 KRYPT AUDIO HLCD 8s ON THE TOWER
4 WET SOUND XS-650-S IN BOAT
200 AMP BALMER ALTERNATOR
2 TROJAN T-105 GOLF CART BATTERIES

Nice really Nice.... I just dont have the room. Would love to hear your system.

DooSPX
10-20-2010, 01:05 PM
My simple stereo install consist of all automotive audio stuff, which is fine for me because my boat sleeps in the garage uncovered so it will not trap moisture in the boat, the Head Unit is a sealed marine housing, the speakers are IMPP w/ rubber surrounds- will be fine with light splashing.

A JVC KD-HDR60 w/ built in HD radio, usb, ipod- freq. crossovers and 7 band EQ. 20W RMS CEA RMS Cert.
4 Pioneer TS-A1683R 6.5" speakers

No sub...


sounds great for what I want... I just want some clean tunes while relaxing on the lake. besides, the less weight the better for me...

IMO sounds better (MUCH clearer/cleaner and about as loud) than a buddies Moomba outback w/ the factory kicker stuff. (never have like the sound of kicker)

I have always had great luck with the sound of Pioneer stuff for the money over the years... even had some SQ systems w/ Pioneer D series.
I have been through kicker, Orin, Matts, You name it...
and I still love spending little and getting a good bit back w/ quality Pioneer stuff. (not the lowend Walmart stuff)

Had I wanted to spend about 2 or 3times what I have in this setup, I would have JL audio everything with my HU.

I really didnt care about having a killer system in my boat was my deal with installing my setup. I ski 98% of the time, and cruise or sit 2% so no need really to impress anyone. besides, a rule in my boat, if a skier is in tow, stereo is off for the driver. concentrate on the skier and the water, not the music. it may be dumb to some, but of well. plus, the boat is out only maybe 5-8 hours per week tops.
my car and my truck both have full systems (amp/sub)

DooSPX
10-20-2010, 08:08 PM
my buddy w/ the outback just heard my boat tonight and admitted that it does sound better/clearer and just as load in the boat as his... makes me feel better knowing that my 260 dollar stereo sounds good... the kicker option is a grand from moomba. If I wanted to spend a grand on a stereo for my boat, it would be JL 7.7's and JL amp.

titleist93mc
10-21-2010, 09:04 AM
Doo - are you running a 4 channel with the speakers, or just powering through the HU?

Also, for those who are using an amp(s) - do they come out when you leave the boat at the dock or parked? I would hate to have to replace because someone lifted it - not that I am worried too much about that happening - I just do like to make those kind of charitable donations, lol.

JD

Starshack
10-21-2010, 10:12 AM
A couple of options - use a few tamper resistant screws - torx head or hex drive (maybe both!) - most thieves will only have a philips, if mounting on a side wall - thru bolt - it generally takes 2 people to tightened or loosen. I have also taken my drill and just stripped the philips heads knowing that if I have to remove they will have to be drilled out. In the end if they want they will get it and you don't want any damage to the boat. I am mounting mine on the forward dividing wall in the bow and through bolting - someone would have to crawl in there and somehow remove the bolts - no easy task.

etduc
10-21-2010, 10:45 AM
Doo - are you running a 4 channel with the speakers, or just powering through the HU?

Also, for those who are using an amp(s) - do they come out when you leave the boat at the dock or parked? I would hate to have to replace because someone lifted it - not that I am worried too much about that happening - I just do like to make those kind of charitable donations, lol.
JD

Nope, they don't come out. You got to hide them, and make them hard, to get too.

In our year boats (I have a 94 205) The head unit can be ripped, in less than a minute. (They push them out, from behind.) No tools required. And yank the wires.
Then they look for the amp. They aren't exactly, careful with the removal. A boat gives natural cover, for thieves.

ALWAYS,ALWAYS remove your faceplate! (Lesson I learned, because I was to lazy to removal it!) If there's no faceplate, they move on.

Don't bother looking for your stereo at pawn shops. Here in Longview, the thieves trade them for sixpacks. Outside liquor stores, and the like.

titleist93mc
10-21-2010, 11:13 AM
Thank for the info. Last question is, what sort of power should I be looking into with the 4 channel? Speakers are rated 60-180w. Thanks.

JD

etduc
10-21-2010, 01:10 PM
Thank for the info. Last question is, what sort of power should I be looking into with the 4 channel? Speakers are rated 60-180w. Thanks.
D

Are you buying, the db651s models? (shallow design)
or two pairs of db651.

The db651s are 55watts-rms, 165watts peak. Your Clarion M309 is rated @21watts/rms -4ohm, 55watts peak

So actually, a pretty modest size amp. Yes, you can go larger, but you are limited by the speaker (short throw design). (It is a good design, for it's application.) This will show up, at high volume. It is not how much peak wattage, it is how much quality quality wattage! (Be sure to set you gain, correctly, as mention.)

I'm currently running the Clarion m309 head unit (21w/rms@4 ohms), with Polk MM651 (55watts/rms). NO external amp, and I'm amazed at the sound quality. Will be going to an old Alpine 5 channel, with a mini 6.5" sub woofer, in the future. (Because I have the amp. 40watts rms @4 ohms x4, 150watts rms @ 4 ohms x1)

My system is for chillin' in the boat. If we are hanging out with other boats, someone has theirs on, so I save my battery. :cool:

Kyle has a pretty nice/tight system, I've heard it from across the lake. :)
Gofast has a nice one, also. (I think, he's adding a fog machine, to his boat.) :rolleyes:

supturb89
10-21-2010, 01:23 PM
Kyle has a pretty nice/tight system, I've heard it from across the lake.
Gofast has a nice one, also. (I think, he's adding a fog machine, to his boat.)

I'm hanging out with the wrong people...

DooSPX
10-21-2010, 02:53 PM
Doo - are you running a 4 channel with the speakers, or just powering through the HU?

Also, for those who are using an amp(s) - do they come out when you leave the boat at the dock or parked? I would hate to have to replace because someone lifted it - not that I am worried too much about that happening - I just do like to make those kind of charitable donations, lol.

JD

I am powering off the the JVC CEA Cert. 2006 HU a true 20W RMS. Most other brands are 14-18W true RMS power.
I might add a small amp one day, but to be very honest, I am VERY happy with the system in the the prostar and I have full systems with subs in both of my car and truck.

The8Ball
10-24-2010, 11:30 PM
...lurked for a while... just bought a 98 ProStar 205, LT1 - back in August. Doing some work on the boat... I have stories. =)

Boat came with original everything. Had a sony CD player and kenwood speakers. After taking the boat out a few times... The only time you can really enjoy the stereo is out on the water, engine off, eating lunch. So I was only looking for a 'minor' upgrade to what was in there originally. And... didn't want to invest in re-working power, adding second batteries, etc. I bought a ski boat. Not a stereo that floats.

JL audio makes the best speaker. But I had 6x9 holes. JL audio does not make 6x9. So I opted for J*B*L 6x9s. 100 w rms/300 watts max. They are superior to the kenwoods, that came with the boat.

Wasn't crazy about adding amps or subs... like under dash/driver's seat area. But I did want some extra bass. So I bought a 10" bazooka tube, with integrated amp, marine version. In my old car, I had a 6" version. I put that in the boat as a test... it sounded good... so I opted for one in my boat. Surely 10" should be enough. Put it under the observer seat, strap mounted it to the floor.

Summary:

Clarion 309M w/ Sirius tuner box and antenna
JBL 6x9s
10" Bazooka tube, with its own integrated powered amp

It should be all hooked up by Wednesday.

Question... for those who have satellite radio... where do you mount your antenna? I have two choices. Option 1: Just to the left of the cup holder in the front of the boat/bow - just in front of the windshield or Option 2: In the rear of the boat, starboard side in the same location as the nav light pole (which is on the port side). One side would have the nav light, the other side, the sat radio antenna.