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View Full Version : X15 Shaft Seal Cracked - Water in transmission oil


jlambe
07-05-2010, 06:48 PM
My 2007 X15 was taking water into the bilge and the culprit turned out to be a big crack on the V-drive shaft seal which is letting all sorts of water into the bilge. I attached a picture of the part (but not my cracked one). The crack (actually the part is in two pieces) cracked abot an inch and a half from the bottom of the white plastic pvc looking part.

It was a bummer to see the cracked shaft seal but then when I checked the transmission oil and saw it was not just a little milky but pretty seriously contaminated with water I almost cried (I have had all sorts of problems with the new-to-me boat this year, i'm not even through my first tank of gas yet). The shaft seal worked fine late last year when I tried the boat out.

Any advice out there? Specifically, is the cracked shaft seal likely the culprit to the water in the transmission, is it possible to change the shaft seal on this boat without lifting the engine, and any opinions/advise on the likelihood of damage to the transmission from the water in there (like I say I am only 1/2 through my first tank of gas on the season which has hopefully caught the problem early!?).

FrankSchwab
07-05-2010, 08:51 PM
I can't imagine that a crack there would put water in the transmission - unless you ended up with a foot of water in the bilge covering the rear transmission seal, or a foot and a half covering the vent on top of the transmission.

Repair the shaft seal. I haven't heard of those breaking. It looks like you have the OJ (http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=OJ2013) seal in there; I'd give them a call and see if you can get just the bad part. You don't have to pull the engine, but you do have to pull the prop and the propshaft. I don't know what it's like on your boat, but on mine it's four bolts to separate the coupler on the bow side of the transmission, followed by getting the coupler off the propshaft (it's a tapered friction fit, so you may need a special puller).

Pull the prop first. I think it's a splined shaft on yours, so it should just slide off when your remove the prop. Then, secure the propshaft so it doesn't slide out the back of the boat and clang on the ground when you remove the transmission coupler.

Pull the transmission cooler and have it pressure tested - it's the most likely culprit for water in the transmission fluid. The transmission cooler is a cylinder about a foot long and about 4" in diameter (http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=R147005). You can find it one of two ways - follow the raw water line from the bottom of the boat to the raw water pump on the front of the engine, the cooler will be a lump somewhere in the middle. Alternatively, there's about a 1" hose coming off the transmission, through the cooler, and back into the transmission.

Transmission coolers crack internally when the boat isn't winterized correctly and water freezes in the cooler; perchance some of your other issues are related?

Flush the transmission a couple of times - drain it, fill it, run it in gear for a few minutes (note: you have to do this in the water), then repeat. Check and see if the fluid turns pink.

Feel free to post any issues you need help with.

jlambe
07-12-2010, 11:18 PM
My other problems were from improper winterization last year so it would make sense that it is a crack in the transmission cooler. I will change that as soon as the part arrives. I haven't pulled the shaft yet and am a little nervous about it but a local MC mechanic was good enough to walk me through it a bit on the phone. Don't need a special tool and it sounds like just the prop and a rear bolt come off. Looking forward to getting the boat back on the water!

jlambe
07-13-2010, 10:52 PM
Does anyone out there know the tourque setting for the prop shaft nut on the X15/MCX?

jlambe
07-23-2010, 05:05 PM
I've fixed my transmission cooler so now its just the shaft seal that needs to fixed. I'm trying to foresee problems operating the boat with the shaft seal not secured in place but really trying to get out this weekend... wondering if water will still get into the engine for cooling? any advice or speculation would be appreciated!

FrankSchwab
07-24-2010, 12:20 AM
As long as it's not leaking faster than your bilge pump can pump, you'll be fine. Unless you get a foot of water in the bilge, you're not going to get water in the engine.

Unless, of course, your bilge pump stops working.

jlambe
07-31-2010, 01:36 AM
I am having a bit of trouble pulling the prop shaft. I have taken off the prop and removed the bolt on the transmission end of the prop shaft. Can't get the shaft out. Should I be looking for a tool to get it moving or is there something that I am missing? I don't think there is a transmission coupler but this is my first year with a boat so just kind of learning as I go....

frosty
07-31-2010, 02:51 AM
I am having a bit of trouble pulling the prop shaft. I have taken off the prop and removed the bolt on the transmission end of the prop shaft. Can't get the shaft out. Should I be looking for a tool to get it moving or is there something that I am missing? I don't think there is a transmission coupler but this is my first year with a boat so just kind of learning as I go....
This may help:
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=35163

jlambe
08-03-2010, 12:49 AM
I rebuilt that tool from that post and used 'deep creep' penetrating lubricant and the prop shaft came right out. The new shaft seal slid on no problem. The bilge pump still runs after a day on the water but have to think between aftermarket ballast, shower and people in and out that is going to happen. Funny thing though, the inside of the old shaft seal looked like it had been melted and the outlet leaving the shaft seal was melted over.