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View Full Version : Trouble starting '94 prostar 190


wtrskr
07-02-2010, 12:26 AM
Just purchased a 1994 prostar with, I beleive, the chevy 350 TBI. First time out it started great and ran fine. Second time it turned over but I can't get it to fire up.

I called a dealer and they thought it could be the kill switch. I agreed that it might be the problem because I had at one point knocked of the kill lanyard while cleaning the dash.

He suggested I remove the wires from the back of the kill switch then try touching them together while turning the ignition. The problem is, the wires go right into the kill switch so I can't just remove them and touch them together.

Any other suggestions? It isn't the battery because it turns over.

Might I have bumped something in the engine compartment that would stop it from starting? I had the floor lifted to see the transmission (found out it has powerslot btw). I lifted off the plastic cover over the flame arrestor, took it off, then put back the flame arrester in the position I beleive to be right. The plastic tube conected to the flame arrester had fallen off and I put it back. i can't think of anything else I could have done.

The dealers are really busy before the big holiday weekend and I'm itching to ski behind it. I hope it is just the kill switch and didn't get a lemon.

Thanks!

JimN
07-02-2010, 02:55 AM
Just purchased a 1994 prostar with, I beleive, the chevy 350 TBI. First time out it started great and ran fine. Second time it turned over but I can't get it to fire up.

I called a dealer and they thought it could be the kill switch. I agreed that it might be the problem because I had at one point knocked of the kill lanyard while cleaning the dash.

He suggested I remove the wires from the back of the kill switch then try touching them together while turning the ignition. The problem is, the wires go right into the kill switch so I can't just remove them and touch them together.

Any other suggestions? It isn't the battery because it turns over.

Might I have bumped something in the engine compartment that would stop it from starting? I had the floor lifted to see the transmission (found out it has powerslot btw). I lifted off the plastic cover over the flame arrestor, took it off, then put back the flame arrester in the position I beleive to be right. The plastic tube conected to the flame arrester had fallen off and I put it back. i can't think of anything else I could have done.

The dealers are really busy before the big holiday weekend and I'm itching to ski behind it. I hope it is just the kill switch and didn't get a lemon.

Thanks!

Remove the lanyard and look at the kill switch. If the pin in the center of the switch broke off when the lanyard was knocked off, it will never start. If it's still there, press it in manually and see if it starts. If it does, get a new lanyard.

André
07-02-2010, 08:15 AM
TBI or LT-1?
Is it spraying gas while cranking?
There's an ignition breaker on the dash that you push to reset.
Had the same problem when i got my 94.Turn out to be the engine temp sensor.
You could try to poor a little bit of gas in the throttle body to see if it's start.
Good luck,great boat!

wtrskr
07-02-2010, 11:08 AM
Thanks for the responses.

The kill switch looks to be fine. I had already tried taking off the lanyard and holding the pin with my finger.

Almost positive it is TBI but not savy to know the difference. Doesn't the LT1 engine say Corvette right on it?

Where would the gas be spraying?

Is the ignition breaker behind the dash? I looked at all the switches on the dash and don't remember seeing anything that would reset the ignition. The dash does have an "ignition" label below three buttons, but none of the buttons seem functional.

wtrskr
07-02-2010, 11:11 AM
While we are at it, I'd like to learn more about my engine and engines in general so I understand what people are talking about. Anybody have suggestions for reading material?

boyd
07-02-2010, 12:44 PM
Yeah, start reading these threads. I have learned a wealth of info.

First off though. You have to understand how an engine works. To to "howstuffworks.com".
Look at the engine stuff. Also look at some carbruator stuff. Then come back here and read everything the JimN writes.

boyd

flipper
07-02-2010, 01:00 PM
Check it for spark before you get too carried away.

wtrskr
07-02-2010, 11:02 PM
An update.

A friend of mine stopped by to help take a look at things. We determined spark but no gas.

The fuel pump is getting some voltage yet not working. The fuel guage wasn't working properly when I got the boat so I'm wondering if the two are related?

wtrskr
07-02-2010, 11:19 PM
Oh, and he says I should check how many volts the fuel guage needs? It is getting 6V.

wtrskr
07-04-2010, 08:11 PM
Now discovered that the fuel pump is near the engine not at the tank. Trying to obtain a new one.

Before I obtain a new pump, what are the odds that the pump works fine just not getting power?

Does the kill switch stop power to the fuel pump? Trying to decide if I just get the new pump and try it or explore other things first.

jimmer2880
07-05-2010, 12:41 PM
Now discovered that the fuel pump is near the engine not at the tank. Trying to obtain a new one.

Before I obtain a new pump, what are the odds that the pump works fine just not getting power?

Does the kill switch stop power to the fuel pump? Trying to decide if I just get the new pump and try it or explore other things first.

I believe the kill switch just kills the spark, not the fuel pump. But - I could be wrong.

The fuel pumps are about $250.00 from skidim.com. Before you replace the pump, take yours off and clean all the screens, etc. I don't think debris in your screens are your problem, but before you order a pump, I'd go over this one pretty-well first.

Did you try squirting some gas down the throttle-body like a previous poster suggested? I've hear people putting gas in mustard-bottles works good for this. That will hint if it's spark or gas related.

jimmer2880
07-05-2010, 12:42 PM
Also - your fuel pump will only pump when it's required, and for a short period (1-2 seconds) after the key is turned to the "on" position.

JDH88
07-05-2010, 01:01 PM
check your fuel pump relays...there are two of them on the drivers side toward the rear of the motor...I have had to replace these on my 94 Pro Star...the engine would turn over but would not start...as soon as I replaced them the fuel pump primed and the boat fired first time. You can order them from any boat store or get on at a local auto parts.

JD

Transman
07-05-2010, 01:18 PM
I've never worked on your particular engine, but if the fuel pump is near the back of the engine take a good test light and see if it is getting voltage while the key is 1st turned on and cranking. Don't use a volt meter or led test light as they can mislead you because they will show voltage with little ability to provide amperage. Most fuel injected engine provide a test port to check fuel pump pressure. Most fuel injected engine need 40-50 PSI to run. I want to point out that if you have a bad fuel sending unit.......pour some more gas in it and make sure it has enough fuel in the tank. The best tools for checking fuel system on a electric pump is fuel psi gage, test light and an amp probe. If you have a low amp test probe you can monitor the amp draw of the fuel pump. Monitoring the amp draw can help detect a worn pump, bad armature, or even a restricted fuel filter. If you can't detect rather it is fuel injected or not, I would recommend getting some assistance. Most general repair tech can assist you.

JimN
07-05-2010, 02:33 PM
The '94 should be at about 18 pounds of pressure. The '95 and later were at 30 pounds until they started using the pump in the tank, and those are in the 40-60 pound range.

There's also a fuse for the fuel pump- make sure all three are OK and none of the relays are corroded. The '94 has the ECM and fuses close to the side of the motor, which put them in position to get wet over time. That's why they were moved in later versions.

While you're at it, check the resistance from the ground on the back of the motor to the negative battery post. referencing to the battery clamp means nothing- it HAS to be referenced to the post when checking positive and ground.

jimmer2880
07-05-2010, 05:21 PM
If his 94 is like my 95, there isn't a shrader valve to test fuel pressure :(

wtrskr
07-05-2010, 08:57 PM
I'm leaning toward getting it to a repair tech.

The gauges all turn on but no buzz for the fuel pump. No gas squirting out. The fuse for the fuel pump looked fine although I only remember checking one fuse.

Gas was at the fuel gauge because when we removed it, I had to quickly put my finger over it to stop it from siphoning all over the place.

Had spark, at least at the distributor. Not at other location I believe.

The posts have provided enough doubt that the pump may be fine just experiencing other issues related to the pump not starting. I would not be surprised if I did something to trip a fuse or something like that. I don't have the tools to check Amps etc.

Since I have already removed the pump, is it possible to take it to a local shop to have it tested to see if it works?

If it were tested and didn't work, I figure I get a quote on ordering and installing a new one or get one from Skidim and install myself. If it were to work, well, then it could be a number of things and I'd let the pros figure it out.

wtrskr
07-06-2010, 11:04 PM
Taking it to the Mastercraft dealer tomorrow.

Another question.

I was able to take a quick peak under the engine cover of another person's '94 prostar 190 and I noticed a few differences. My fuses are up by the flame arrestor under the plastic cover. My engine doesn't have the "Mastercraft power" written on the side. A few of the hoses seemed to be different and possibly going to different places (it was a real quick peak)

My question is why they would they be different? Do we possibly have different modifications (hp's etc.)? Mine does have Powerslot and his doesn't, could that be why they have some differences?

My boat also has an oversized "Mastercraft" decal on the side. Could the oversized decal be the original or is it probably a replacement decal?

JimN
07-06-2010, 11:46 PM
I read in one post that the gauge was getting 6V. That's a major problem. If the ECM isn't getting full voltage, it will never run. The battery terminals need to be checked and the voltage at the ends of the cables needs to be compared with what's read from the positive battery terminal to the negative terminal, not from one cable clamp to the other. If the ground point on the rear of the motor is corroded and/or loose, with damaged terminals, it will never be right.

wtrskr
07-07-2010, 12:56 AM
JimN, the 6V was a mistake. Originally we thought the fuel pump was in the back. We were were actually checking the fuel gauge voltage not the pump voltage.

When I did discover the fuel pump I no longer had access to a meter.