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kscrib
06-27-2010, 08:44 PM
I have a 2006 X30 with the MCX engine (200 hours). It has run great ever since we bought it new. This weekend is the first time it has ever given us a problem. We had been anchor in a cove for about 5 hours on a 95 degree day. We went to leave the cove and were idling out of the no wake zone. Taking advantage of the slow speed I was filling ballast (doubt that is relevant but wanted to be sure). Everything was normal, when all of a sudden the engine stopped. Now it will not start.

The tank is completely full. The engine had only been on a few minutes and was not hot. We let it sit over night and checked in the AM when the temp was cooler and it still will not start. I check the relief valve going to the injectors and have fuel. It sprays out of the valve (like a tire vale), so I assume it has adaquet pressure.

The starter cranks over at full speed (no battery problems). I have pulled a spark plug and checked for spark, which apears yellow (not blue) and not near as often as I would expect. I suspect the ECM died, but don't know how to confirm that before I replace it (quick internet search showed them at $900.00).

Any other ideas? We have friends coming to visit for the 4th of July weekend, and need the boat fixed. Nearest dealer is 150+ miles away one way.

Thanks.

vision
06-27-2010, 09:18 PM
I am sure you checked this, but double check the kill switch. On a hot day that black plastic becomes pliable and may not be holding the switch depressed. I would even depress the button with your finger and try starting.

If you truly have normal fuel pressure, then in theory it can not be the kill switch as the fuel pump does not pump, at least on my boats, when the kill switch is removed. But perhaps there was just residual fuel pressure?

If not the kill switch, I am going with fuel pump. I do not know what the pressure is suppose to be at the fuel rail, but some one here will let you know.

Hope you find the answer.

kscrib
06-27-2010, 09:30 PM
I check the kill switch as well - to no avail.

The second worst thing about this whole mess is that I had to towed in by a Malibu!

airdrew99
06-27-2010, 09:42 PM
kscrib,
Just wanted to let you know that engines don't turn over very fast with the starter turning. I would estimate only about 100-150 RPM at the most (maybe not even that fast). With that being said, each spark plug only fires on every other full revolution of the engine. So if the engine was spinning 120RPM with the starter engaged, a spark plug will only spark once every second (because the engine would be spinning two full revolutions per second).
You might want to bleed off all the fuel pressure, then turn the key on to see if pressure is built up fairly quick. It should only take a 1-2 seconds to get full pressure back to your fuel rail. If you could plumb in a fuel pressure gauge and find out how much pressure you should have, this could possible identify the problem or eliminate the fuel system. I know on some cars with V8's run about 50psi with engine off & key on, then like 65psi with the engine idling (not sure about the numbers but they should be close). If pressure is pretty low, the fuel can't spray/mist out of the injector. I hope this helps a little.

Drew

kscrib
06-28-2010, 11:19 PM
Update: Pressure to the fuel bar has not returned. Pretty sure it is a fuel pump/filter issue. I will order parts and confirm once I have it running. Three nights left to work on it before the holiday weekend. Hope the parts come fast! (Any hints on where to order - I am in the Kansas City, MO area).

coz
06-28-2010, 11:30 PM
Update: Pressure to the fuel bar has not returned. Pretty sure it is a fuel pump/filter issue. I will order parts and confirm once I have it running. Three nights left to work on it before the holiday weekend. Hope the parts come fast! (Any hints on where to order - I am in the Kansas City, MO area).

Did you try starting in neutral? if so try starting with a little throttle up and see if it fires, if it does fire and dies when brought back to neutral it might be the IAC (idle air control valve)

thatsmrmastercraft
06-28-2010, 11:34 PM
Check first with your local Mastercraft dealer. If they are as good as my dealer (Midwest Mastercraft) they will have you covered on what you need at a fair price.

SKIDIM will ship you parts as fast as you want them to.

http://skidim.com/

kscrib
06-28-2010, 11:49 PM
I have tried starting out of netural and it does not fire that way either. Believe me, I tried everything I could think of before having to admit to my buddy that owns a Malibu that I needed a tow in! :-)

I found this thread - it appears to be what I need. I like the post on page 12 about the part from Napa, as I have a 2006 X30 as well - so the part number should work.

http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=25783

coz
06-28-2010, 11:59 PM
I have tried starting out of netural and it does not fire that way either. Believe me, I tried everything I could think of before having to admit to my buddy that owns a Malibu that I needed a tow in! :-)

I found this thread - it appears to be what I need. I like the post on page 12 about the part from Napa, as I have a 2006 X30 as well - so the part number should work.

http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=25783

If you can get it at NAPA then that will be the quickest & cheapest way to do it, I've personally got parts from NAPA and highly reccomend Skidim too. Good luck and hope you make the friday deadline

kscrib
06-30-2010, 06:36 PM
Got the pump today. Any tricks/tips on how to disconnect the fuel line to the engine? I rolled back the red covering and removed the metal clip. I have been hesitant to use any elbow grease to pull the line off. Am I being to chicken, or is there a trick/tool that I need to know?

airdrew99
06-30-2010, 07:21 PM
I'm not sure if it is the same type of fuel line I'm thinking of, but some fuel lines use a special little plastic c-shaped clip that will slide under the fitting to release it. Does anyone know if this is the connection that kscrib is talking about? You definitely don't want to just rip this type of connection apart.

airdrew99
06-30-2010, 07:22 PM
If you can post a picture of the fitting, I can tell you if it is the one I'm thinking of.

ncsone
06-30-2010, 08:00 PM
If it is the connection between the fuel line and the fuel pump assembly (under the orange fuel line protective cover); I think you need a specific tool to remove that connection from the pump module. The good news is that I believe that that connector is a common automotive part. Your local auto parts store should have the proper tool to remove that connection.

kscrib
06-30-2010, 08:19 PM
ncsone and airdrew99 were correct. The way to disconnect the fuel line is to slide two "C" shaped clips under the connector, that I got at a local autoparts store for about $10. The fitting slides off nice and easy after that.

So, you can tell I am reaching the end of my journey at this point. I have the old pump out, and the new pump in. I need new fingers after lining up and hand tightening all 12 screws on the pump, but that was just a battle of patience.

The good news is the pump did fix the problem and my boat started right up. Man I love that sound!!!

The bad news is that the pump sold in 2010 looks just like the one I replaced that was made 2006. I don't see any improvements in the pump module. Same corrigated line, same off set tube on the outside that does not line up with the notch, same brand name on the top of the module, etc. I am going to take apart the old one and put in the auto pump (Napa or Delco) described in other posts, so I have a spare next time this over priced problem occurs when I don't have time to order a new one.

Thanks to all who responded to this thread and made post of their own.

This forum solved my problem and saved my holiday weekend!

Thank you!!!

pkreusch
07-01-2010, 01:22 AM
Good for you Kscrib for figuring out the issue.

You know, using automotive parts for marine applications can get you in trouble if you ever need to use your insurance to submit a claim. Although, many parts are interchangeable, if you don't have that little sticker that indicates it is marine rated on the part, insurance companies won't pay out for a claim. Even if the claim has nothing to do with the part that failed. For example, I have a freind that replaced his water pump with an automotive style pump. Fit great and worked perfect, but when he forgot to put the plug in the boat and launched it in the river here in Florida, the boat sank. Upon investigation of the insurance company, they refused to pay for damages citing that "non-marine rated parts were found installed on the vessel". Be careful. And remember to carefully remove the marine sticker from your old pump and stick it onto your new one. In most cases, it is the same pump anyway and they charge you an extra $400 for that little sticker.