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makaveli2308
06-22-2010, 11:44 PM
Hey all,

Anyone know how much it costs to add a heater to an 07 x-2 ? And, can it be done from the shop or are there 3rd party installers ?

thanks

vision
06-23-2010, 09:07 AM
Not terribly difficult to do. The heaters are from HeaterCraft which you can buy. The some what challenging aspect is installing the fitting on your engine for the hot water hoses and and running the air tubes to the vents.

Thrall
06-23-2010, 09:12 AM
Put one in my X2 this winter. 3 vent heater kit was $450. I did it myself, but I'd figure a days labor charge to install, depending on how complex, where you locate the vents, etc.

Thrall
06-23-2010, 09:47 AM
Heater install location on mine, under the seat behind the driver, water tie in pic, and hot tubes by the cupholders each side (3rd vent under dash) and duct/hose routing under the back seat.

Most OEM installs put the hot tubes down in the fiberglass side panels by the floor and mount the heater/fan under the dash.

hbomb
07-28-2010, 02:52 AM
Thrall.great response - thanks - have looked at Heater Craft 300H - 3
a bit confused with the motor bits...... would you be good enough to post a close up of the "engine" bits - so i can see what is involved
thanks

Thrall
07-28-2010, 10:20 AM
I don't have any pics of the engine "bits" hahaha, but it's fairly simple. The hose with the ball valve (and red shower water line Tee'd off of it) is the supply line for the heater. The Heatercraft kit comes with the fitting, just unscrew the plug in the intake manifold and screw in the male thread/hose barb fitting. I added the valve to be able to shut the hot water off to the heater if there was a leak, or when it's real hot and heater is not needed at all.
The return line from the heater goes to a Tee into the raw water pickup line and there's a Y that you can buy to use in place of a tee that improves flow/heat. Check out Skidim's website for the kit and the "Y". I ended up using a T from my shower kit in lieu of the expensive Y fitting and get good heat.
Heater hose is all 5/8" and raw water line is 1-1/4". Any extra fittings or valves you might need can be had at a good hardware store, plumbing supply, or landscaping irrigation supply house.
Are you looking at install in a new hull X2?

hbomb
07-28-2010, 07:58 PM
07......pickle
thanks for that - what threw me was the red line......... "thought" it was a red shower line coming in and the ball valve........clever and you are right - the thing would still be feeding hot air so you need to turn it off......
you are right about the y.......gives a smoother flow than a T piece
was looking at the aquatik shower kit - we do the majority of our boating on the river (Murray River - Echuca Australia) and it would be great to be able to wash of the feet

thanks Thrall

Thrall
07-28-2010, 08:22 PM
FWIW, I used a 1-1/4 x 1-1/4 x 5/8 tee that was supposed to be for the cold water supply for my shower kit for the return line from the heater core and get plenty of flow/hot air. Water here was still 65-66deg F on the 4th of July and the heater pumped plenty of warm air with the engine at an idle.
The heater kit has a 3 speed fan and the swich comes with it. Our boats are pre wired for a heater switch (at least mine was) in the dash. I used med and high on that 2 position switch. Figured low speed wasn't really worth it if you're cold.
If you're interested in putting the hot tubes by the cupholders like I did, you need the exact size hole saw for the outlets, 4" IIRC just fits and any bigger and you end up cutting the cupholder base in half, it's only like 4-1/2" wide. Also have to take apart the hot tubes, 2 little screws and put a "bend" from the top to bottom half of the piece so it can fit up against the side of the hull. Think I rotated the top 90 deg from where it was screwed together and re-drilled the screws in to make it stay together in that shape. I'm much happier with that placement than down near the floor. Looks cleaner IMO and only had to trim some hidden fiberglass vs cutting into exposed 'glass.
Shower was not too bad to install except mounting the pump was a bit of a pain you can sse where I mounted it, rear, starboard side in the engine pic. I wanted to minimize how many splices I put in different cooling hoses, so I ran the hot water off of the heater hose as pictured and the cold water tee'd into the 3/8" hose that feeds the prop shaft seal. I get plenty of hot and cold water from these locations.
Mounted the mixing valve and sprayer here.

hbomb
07-28-2010, 08:51 PM
the heater switch is good - was not aware how many spots on the dial so it is logical that you would go med/high to get heat and it keeps it looking original.....
the hot tubes place is great.......... they are out of the way and can be reached easily enough without "snagging" other things (looked at a friends mal (banish that word) and his tubes come out from near the rear at floor level........a damn nuisance when tube is out!
the shower is a great install......looks OEM!

Green Sport
04-17-2012, 08:42 PM
I have an Aquatek shower and it stopped workingh. I checked the line and power is getting to the pump. The problem is that my shower pump is mounted on the starboard side between the fuel cell and the hull and I can not get it out to test the pump itself. Since I did not install this pump I have no idea how to get it out of the mounting bracket. Does anybody know how this pump is typically mounted?

Randy

bcd
04-18-2012, 07:20 PM
Reading this thread has got me thinking about my heater. I've never had experience with a boat heater before, but heard good things about them. I ordered one on my 2012 X-2, and it sucks. There are no pullout hoses and the air coming out of the vents is never very hot.

I looked at my engine plumbing. The supply comes from the front top of the engine, similar to Thrall's location. My return goes back to the top (thermostat housing maybe). I'm thinking about replumbing it into the raw water intake to try getting better flow. I'm a little concerned about returning hot water into my cooling water supply. I'd assume there would be enough lake water coming in to overcome the heater return. I could also install a shut off valve to turn it off during the warmer months. Is this plumbing setup common? Why didn't mine come that way from the factory?

I also noticed heatercraft has a hot tube extendable vent. Just looking at the picture, it looks like it would fit where my large vent under the oberserver's seat. There weren't any dimensions, so I'll call them tomorrow to get them. I'm also wondering why my current vent is so large if it's not extendable. I messed around with it again tonight, but couldn't get it to pop out. Here's some pictures of my vent.

bcd
04-19-2012, 10:51 AM
I called Heatercraft today to get some more information. They told me that they are no longer supplying Mastercraft with heaters. Anyone know where they're coming from now? He gave me dimensions for their hot tube extendable vent. I'm going to try adding it if it fits well in my current vent location.

bcd
04-19-2012, 07:55 PM
Ok, so I'm an idiot. I was looking at my vent again today and looked inside the vent and could see the hose inside the tube. I pulled hard on the vent, and it does pop out, although not very easily. I still need to get it blowing hot air.

lentiman
01-23-2014, 05:21 PM
Ok, so I'm an idiot. I was looking at my vent again today and looked inside the vent and could see the hose inside the tube. I pulled hard on the vent, and it does pop out, although not very easily. I still need to get it blowing hot air.


So did you get your heater temperature issues fixed? I'm about to take delivery of a 2012 X2 and I hear that the engine thermostat from the factory was just too cold and that many people requested higher temp thermostats from their dealer to solve the heater low temp issues. My X2 didn't come with a heater so I'll have to install this myself, but I don't want to pay the dealer for a new thermostat if I can avoid it.