View Full Version : replace packing 2000 Maristar

06-21-2010, 01:33 PM
searched many a thread on here about replacing packing material. I have the procedure down but my questions are this...

1. I want to try tighten coupler first but for the life of me, i cannot get the jam nut loose. Tried hammer and chisel and started putting major notch in nut. Pipe wrench causes rubber hose to twist. Any ideas.?

2. Once loosened, should i use two pieces of rope or three?

3. Do you have to remove shaft before inserting packing?

06-21-2010, 01:43 PM
Here are two threads on the subject in the General Discussion FAQ,


06-21-2010, 03:55 PM
1. Good luck. Consider purchasing a set of packing nut wrenches. It's a real b*tch to work down there without the right tools. No, the cheap plumbing wrenches from Home Depot don't tend to work well.
2. Three, IIRC. TMCNo1's links should be more authoritative.
3. Nope, the shaft is REQUIRED to be there to keep the packing in place. You're stuffing the packing in the space between the shaft and the log.

Good luck,

06-25-2010, 10:36 AM
got the packing changed yesterday on the V-Drive. At 6'3", i am now ready to try out for a traveling contortionist show that hits area malls. Good grief! :rolleyes:

06-25-2010, 10:44 AM
I am six foot and it seem like everything I have to work on with a gas engine either requires me to be standing on my head. Laying on my belly like a snake and still just reaching the problem with the finger tips of one hand. If not that, then bent in a perfect u with only one hand that can reach whatever I am working on that needs two hands.

06-27-2010, 12:29 AM
ran boat all day packing seemed to work. 2 drips every ten seconds or so. never ran bilge once. Was i the guy that said last week i was somewhat disappointed with my Maristar? She won a good part of me back today. :rolleyes: Great day on the water. Boat ran superb! Love that EFI LTR.

06-27-2010, 01:20 AM
Glad to hear it's working out.

What packing did you use - gore-tex or flax?

Check the drip rate again after 10 hours or so, and adjust.


06-27-2010, 08:39 AM
flax. appreciate the tip to recheck.

07-10-2010, 02:42 PM
packing seems to be working. question, and i admit might be somewhat over paranoid.

seeing a drip about every 5 seconds or so from the top side of nut. Left hand side of photo (opposite of lock nut) does it matter what side drip originates from. Only reason for asking is because before changing water was running out of bottom side, (next to lock nut) Just wondering. BTW...thanks for the photo Maristar Man :)

07-10-2010, 03:27 PM
The drip should originate from the open end of the packing nut, between the nut and the shaft. Water should work its way through the packing, and the only place it can possibly go is out the top side of the nut along the shaft.

From your description, I can't tell where it used to come out, and where it is coming out. You have to look carefully, however, because where its dripping is not necessarily where its coming out.


07-10-2010, 04:43 PM

if looking at photo in above post, water drips out of the left-hand side of coupler, (top side of shaft) opposite of where the lock nut touches coupler. it appears you are saying this is correct. appreciate the response.

learning more and more about these inboards, which is just one of the things TT does well, but that is another story being discussed on another thread. Just let me say, TT has been invaluable for me as i shifted from I/O. Has given be confidence, understanding and saved a few $$ along the way.

07-10-2010, 06:07 PM
Sounds like you've got it right.

Once you figger these boats out, they're about the simplest boats going.

You're always going to have engine problems, but at least on these boats you're working with an auto engine, so you have a lot of resources available to you. You're always going to have transmission problems, but these transmissions are pretty bulletproof and well-protected. Other than that, everything is pretty simple mechanically - cables, rods, and grease for the most part.