View Full Version : Can I Rebuild a 4160 with kit 37-119?
06-18-2010, 11:22 AM
My carb is in desperate need of a rebuild and I was hoping to get it done before this weekend. I just purchased a holly kit 37-119 from my local autoparts store. It is designed to work with the 600 cfm 4160 which is indeed what is on my 88 prostar 190 351w. It is "universal" which I according to holley's website means it has a lot of extra parts to fit the carb variations. Holley also says it has extra parts included which can be selected for improved performance - not sure what parts they could be talking about.
However, I poked around on the web and found that the marine kit for my carb (List#50463) is a 703-29 . Does anybody know what the differences between kits is? Perhaps a different power valve and needle and seat - but how much different are they and more importantly will it make any difference?
At only $25 for a kit with a huge number of parts, I can't help but wonder if this is one of those cases were we have to bend over and pay double because it is "marine"; even though the kits are identical. I just want some confirmation before I open the package.
Anybody ever used a 37-119?
06-18-2010, 11:27 AM
It seems the only real issue with rebuilding a carb is access to parts dip and compressed air. If you have them both and some basic knowledge of carbs it's really pretty easy.
Holley does list the 37-119 as the renew kit for model 4160. However, I would go with the marine one. http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RN0120-1
06-18-2010, 12:56 PM
You probably would need to use the marine kit here for the 4160, http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RN0120-1 or maybe available from a local boat dealer.
My mechanic used the marine kit I had and he said the parts in it were much different and better than the standard stuff he uses and he has a complete Holley package of replacement repair/parts because he uses them on his race cars.
06-18-2010, 01:03 PM
Thanks for the responses. Since it sounds like there is differences I figured better safe than sorry and made some phone calls. In theory Autozone just ordered me the correct one and it should be here tomorrow afternoon (Advance, napa, and car quest could not get it). He said it was the 703-29 but I am concerned as it was only $25 which seams awfully inexpensive relative to the online distributors. I will keep my fingers crossed!
06-23-2010, 11:27 AM
To complete this thread for future searchers. The 703-29 is indeed the correct kit and the one recommended by Holley. Although these kits are recommended for specific carb list#, do not expect them to have the correct power valve. In my case the carb should have a 2.5 but the kit comes with a 5.5. This means the enrichment will occur at a lower RPM (vacuum decreases with engine speed). I really wanted to get into the water and ended up just putting my original power valve back in so I am not sure how it would run with the 5.5.
I am guessing a lot of people are running the 5.5 after rebuilding, curious if it works well as I have yet to get mine to idle as well as I would like and think my old power valve might be blown (idle screws are only 1/4 turn out and it almost runs with them turned all the way in).
06-23-2010, 11:31 AM
You may be correct about that power valve being bad. a simple way to check to see if they are good is to try to turn the larger end while holding the smaller end. If it will turn the power valve is shot.
06-23-2010, 12:29 PM
I have never heard of that method, will give it a try tonight. I did try the "stick your lips on it and suck" method and it did close, but that seams like a test that will only work if the diaphragm has a large hole in it. I am also going to replace the PCV and put a vacuum gauge on it to see where I am idling at. Not sure where to hook the gauge up as there are no ports, thinking I will have to put a tee in the PCV line.