View Full Version : Water Logged Hull

06-16-2010, 03:11 PM

I'm working on a 1982 MasterCraft Competition Ski Boat, with 351 Ford and Powerslot option... Stars and Stripes boat. This boat has 1 piece wrap around windshield, similar to 1981 Boats. The boat performs well, but over that year it lists to the driver's side of the boat as you go down the lake. I am aware that the 1983 boats have open cell foam outside of the stringers for flotation. Does this earlier year boat have similar construction. I believe this is the last year of Wood stringers. You can also see the boat is listing to Starboard as the boat sits static in the water. A 200 pound person on the opposite side of the boat can level out the listing. I know there have been swim platform issues in the past. Also the heater box under the dash is leaking. I am assuming that this is where the water is coming from. The family left the boat out in the rain for a couple of weeks uncovered. I'm sure this did not help.

I removed a screw from floor and inserted a drill bit. It feels like there is foam under the fiberglass floor. The drill bit comes out wet.

I am curious if the foam is continuous down the full length of the stringer. Would I expect to find rotten stringers? I have replaced stringers, in a Correct Craft (Yuck), so I have an idea what I am getting in to. I am assuming I need to remove the carpet, cut out the floor, remove the foam, re-foam with closed cell foam, and glass the floor back in... Then new carpet.

Does any know how many hours of work this procedure involves to do both sides of the boat? Just trying to get a rough idea. To determine if it is worth doing.

I appreciate any input!

Thanks, HTWOODS :cool::cool::cool::cool:

06-20-2010, 02:54 AM
I would bet money there is rot, I WOULD NOT REFOAM. I'm not sure about how long. There are lots of factors that come into play plus you dont know what it looks like under that floor till you get it up. The foam is an opinion thing I guess. I personally not a fan and wont be putting it in mine as the last stringer job was done without it and I never had any issues.

06-20-2010, 12:58 PM
wet foam boat rebuild (http://freewebs.com/billsboatworks)

Soaked foam is a heavy mess. I removed hundreds of pounds of soaked foam on a project boat of my own. A fast check is to weigh your boat and compare the weight to original specs. You can be hundreds of pounds over with soaked foam.

The debate of to foam or not to foam will never end. But few will question the decision to remove the wet foam.

06-20-2010, 01:20 PM
I have not taken apart an MC myself, but I've been following several threads on this forum and learning more about the construction of the early MCs. If you have to do a foam/stringer job, I think you are going to find it easier than your previous job on the CC. MC had some smart design features, including they did not run the ventilation hoses through the flotation foam. Also, there appear to be fewer odd shaped cuts in the MC stringers. BKH

06-22-2010, 07:23 AM
Thanks to all for your help. I appreciate it. Yes, I have thought about just removing the foam, all together. I have used 2 part closed cell foam, and it works well, so I am inclined to use it. I wish I could tell how far the foam goes forward in the hull???

06-30-2010, 08:26 PM
I would imagine it goes all the way to the farthest most point of the floor in the bow. There are two or three MC rebuild project threads under the appearance category that may help you out.