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ScrewPull
06-09-2010, 04:04 PM
Hey everyone!

I am new to the site and need some help. I just purchased a 1979 Stars & Stripes from a guy in Mississippi. The boat looked a little rough, but not bad at all for its vintage. I took it to Austin (Tx), cleaned it up, changed the plugs, filters, belts, etc and it was amazing. I couldn't believe how she cleaned up and how well she ran!

While it runs and looks great, there are a couple of things I'd like to restore. First of all, the boat did not come with the original steering wheel. Also, I am looking for a replacement swim platform in teak. I believe the platforms on the '79s were fiberglass, but I'd like to go with teak. Anyone know where I can find these items. I've looked and looked, but have had little luck.

Any pointers on removing oxidation would be helpful as well.

Thanks!

ScrewPull

oxberger
06-09-2010, 04:30 PM
ScrewPull, welcome to the site and congrats on your purchase! The old ones are awesome. I have an '85 myself I'm restoring and there are a bunch of other guys doing restorations now. Check out americanskierJim's LTD restoration. It's awesome!

Now to answer your questions: I would check with Jim@BAWS (that Jima at Bay Area Watersports inFlorida) He may know where to find an original steering wheel for you. It's my understanding though MC used Grant as the supplier for their steering wheels and they can be had at any auto parts place. Jim would also know where you could find a teak platform as well. Check the Marketplace here too. I hope that helps. BTW, where in the south are you? I live in Murfreesboro, TN myself. Again, welcome and congrats!

TMCNo1
06-09-2010, 04:30 PM
Hey everyone!

I am new to the site and need some help. I just purchased a 1979 Stars & Stripes from a guy in Mississippi. The boat looked a little rough, but not bad at all for its vintage. I took it to Austin (Tx), cleaned it up, changed the plugs, filters, belts, etc and it was amazing. I couldn't believe how she cleaned up and how well she ran!

While it runs and looks great, there are a couple of things I'd like to restore. First of all, the boat did not come with the original steering wheel. Also, I am looking for a replacement swim platform in teak. I believe the platforms on the '79s were fiberglass, but I'd like to go with teak. Anyone know where I can find these items. I've looked and looked, but have had little luck.

Any pointers on removing oxidation would be helpful as well.

Thanks!

ScrewPull


Contact http://teakworldenterprises.samsbiz.com/ about a possible platform.

oxberger
06-09-2010, 04:31 PM
Oh, and there are plenty of threads on here about removing oxidation. I have to do that to mine, not sure what kind of tools you have or how bad it is, that would determine what grit to start wet sanding at.

americanskierJim
06-09-2010, 04:50 PM
ScrewPull, Welcome to TT. congrat's on your boat. Get some pics and post for all to see.

thatsmrmastercraft
06-09-2010, 05:11 PM
Welcome aboard Screw. Ditto on the pic request.

psychobilly
06-09-2010, 06:20 PM
There are several threads I have found in here by searching that gives awesome detailed instructions on compound buffing. That is what I set up to do. You will need a variable speed polisher/buffer.

I like what BrianM did and it's what I am setting up for. I found the buffer on ebay for 240.00 but you can get an el-cheap-o for 60 or so bux.

Here is an update for ya. I have about 10 hours into compounding and polishing the hull. I have averything but the bottom of the boat done.
I did two passes with 3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound and two passes with the 3M Cleaner Wax. All of this with a 7" Wool pad with my Makita set to forced circular mode. The cleaner has enough ebrasive in it to remove any of the light haze from the compound and produces a nice shine.

After I finish this process on the bottom I am going to go over it one more time with a Meguires Polish and then one final coat of good Meguires Carnuba Wax. But it is looking good.

Here are the stars with a nice uniform gray in the background now.

you can find Brian's post here

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=19557&highlight=1985+restoration&page=2

There was another feller on here last week that was talking up another product that he felt was superior over the 3M stuff but I have already purchased my Heavy Duty 3M, polishing Compound, and wax.

Now I've heard the trick is, DO NOT HOLD DOWN HARD on the buffer as you will burn the gelcoat. Also I hear you have to keep the heavy duty 3M wet while working it.

I'm at work in OZ right now but I will have my new buffer in when I get back stateside in 3 weeks and I will be posting progress on mine.

There's answers to all your questions in here, just try the search engine up top. It took me a few trys but I found a lot of great info from the guys here.

Here's another great example from shepherd

You need a high speed circular (or "rotary") polisher like this one http://www.properboatcare.com/veprcipo.html to restore faded gel coat. Orbital buffers are only good for light polishing and waxing.



Here's what my old boat used to look like and then what it looked like after buffing it with the circular polisher and waxing by hand:

you can find this post here

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=28199&highlight=restore+gelcoat

as well as pics from shepherd's before and after pics....

or type in restore gelcoat in the search engine.

hope this helps

ScrewPull
06-09-2010, 06:29 PM
Thanks you guys! Oxberger, I read through a good portion of the resoration on that LTD, but haven't finished. That's too cool and I found a great deal of useful information.

I have a couple more questions. First, I have been filling out the title/registration app. and there's a spot where you have to disclose the hull serial #. I wrote the number down, but one of the numbers/letters was difficult to read. It's one of the first three numbers/letters. It reads MBC..., or MBG..., or MBO. Can anyone tell me what that third number/letter is? I'm assuming it's probably a typical prefix for the serial number, so I'm hoping someone might know. I think it's a C, but it was just too difficult to tell. Can't find the hull # on any of the paper work the seller gave me.

Second question... This one will indicate that I'm a total greenhorn when it comes to boats! Is the this boat an inboard with an outdrive, or just classified as an outboard. The application requires this information. If it's an inboard with an outdrive, where would the outdrive serial number be?

Lastly, anyone know where to get a bimini top for a '79? It's gonna be a hot one this summer! Not sure if I really want one, but it would be nice to know where to get one should I decide it to be a necessity.

Thanks again you guys!

Oh, and how do I post photos? Will do so as soon as I can figure it out.

ScrewPull
06-09-2010, 06:32 PM
Thanks a million, Psychobilly!

strad
06-09-2010, 06:52 PM
It's an inboard boat. No outdrive.

psychobilly
06-09-2010, 09:51 PM
It's an inboard boat. No outdrive.

strad's correct and in Texas I put down the Gear S/N. I'm no gu~ru on the location of your S/N tag in your boat but mine was on the top of the Gear on a lil metal tag.

MCVOLS
06-10-2010, 09:15 AM
first 3 s/b MBC (mastercraft boat company). There is a thread on HINs that should confirm this. Not 100% sure about '79.

ecproductions143
06-13-2010, 01:10 AM
bass boats and many older pontoons have ouutboards the mtors r completley exposed. in/outbord is what you see on runabats like a bayline sea rays and lots f others. competion ski boat are INBOARD. mastercraft ski nautique, maibu etc. welcome to the forum I am new as well i have 1980 S&S myself thats i am restoring

psychobilly
06-13-2010, 01:52 AM
Well screwpull, did you get your polisher yet? Mines in the mail heading to me. (well it will actually beat me home) Post some pics man!!!

americanskierJim
06-13-2010, 09:23 AM
ScrewPull, To post pic's you have to click on "GO Advanced" The botton next to "post Quick reply". Then it will bring up another box it will say browse and look for your pic you want from your frolder and click on upload and your pic will be sent to your thread it will only do 5 pics at a time. Hope this helps you to post some pics.
AMSJim


ecproductions143, What kind of "80" Are you resorting an SS or LTD like I have? Post some pics we would like to see the MC.

TMCNo1
06-13-2010, 10:01 AM
You can also use the Paperclip Icon,
Click on "Post Reply" box or Quick Reply "Go Advanced". In Additional Options below the post box, you will see "Manage Attachments" or click on the Paperclip Icon at the top of the post box that gives you the same window, there you choose a picture from the Browse feature that is stored in My Pictures or other Browse options, and follow the prompts to upload that picture. If the pic is too large there is a post on resizing in FAQ at the top of General Discussion.
You can upload up to 5 pictures per post.

ScrewPull
06-14-2010, 11:04 PM
Here are a few of the photos...

ScrewPull
06-14-2010, 11:05 PM
Hey guys! Thanks for all the info. Finally got some photos posted...

Went to Austin and finally got the boat registered! Took it out and spent the entire weekend on it on Lake Austin. My brother and I took it Friday evening the entire length of the lake (27mi) and back and I did the same on Saturday and Sunday. I'm lovin' it! I can't believe how well it runs! My brother went over every through-hull apparatus with sealant and the boat takes on not a drop of water, which makes for even further worry-free floatin'!

Psychobilly, I haven't ordered a rotary polisher yet, but plan to in the next day or so. I've looked at the Makita 9227 and the DeWalt DW849 (or something like that). I'm hoping to save some money, though, and am considering the Black & Decker for nearly half the price of the Makita and DeWalt. There's another maker that's even cheaper - ATD - that has a variable 1000 to 3000 RPM, 11amp motor. Probably break after several hours of use, but I don't plan on pushing it to the limit, but rather to just polish the stripes as they need the most attention. I just ordered received the pinstriping and will be getting the period-correct ('79) MasterCraft logo (the ones on the boat now are not correct as far as I've been able to tell. I posted photos here to an album called Lake Austin (only four photos), but I'm not sure how to tell you get there. I will attach them to this response, so hopefully you'll get to see 'em. So, when you get your rotary, what pads, compounds, etc will you use?

americanskierJim
06-15-2010, 08:02 AM
ScrewPull, Great lookin boat looks like you are enjoying the water. Glad you had a great weekend.

oxberger
06-15-2010, 09:40 AM
Screw, good looking boat. Sounds awesome that you've been able to start using it and with no problems. Keep up the routine maintenance and it'll last you for many many years. You know any time you hit the lake in the boat, you have to post pics as soon as humanly possible, right? We're looking forward to seeing the pics from this past weekend.

ScrewPull
06-15-2010, 11:26 AM
Thanks, Ox! I'll definitely post 'em as soon as they're taken.

Jim, by they way, I read your restoration thread and am blown away by it. I love the color and am impressed with your work. I also liked the photos of the Corvair. I'm into old cars - I have a 1953 Chevy Pickup and a 1966 Chevelle SS (Clone - has 383 stroker). I will be along shortly with some photos.

I love the classics, whether it be a boat, car, or a lemon-squeezer. They just don't make 'em like they used to. On the lake, my boat gets more stares and thumbs-ups and comments than most of the others out there. What's funny is that I paid less than 4K for my boat, while the other dozen-dimers have spent at least ten times that much. My brother has a 24' Tige and even he's jealous! Ha! Actually, if it weren't for him, I wouldn't be here. It all started when he bought a 1977 MC S&S (tan/brown). Unfortunately, he lost it in a miscommunication with some people doing some work on the trailer. Long story, and a sad one. At any rate, I fell in love with it, so decided to replace his with this one.

The only problem I've noticed is that parts are very difficult to find. I'd like to find, for example, an original seat for a '79. As popular as these old MCs are, I'm just surprised to find that there's not a supplier somewhere. I know there are plenty of suppliers for engine stuff, but I'm really speaking more about the other stuff, from windshields to skegs underneath. I'm looking for an OEM front light, replacement hinges for the engine cowling (not really important as the ones on it work fine, just a little pitted), steering wheel specs (someone said they were originally made by Grant, but I don't know which ones will fit).

Also, I'm wondering about putting a stereo in the boat. Anyone have any ideas on where to put one without having to get too creative? Jim, I saw what you did with the front two speakers, but am wondering where you're putting the amp and the 10' sub.

Also, Jim, I am wanting to replace my swim deck with a teak one. I am considering the folding brackets, as well. I either missed it, or you never stated how you filled in the bolt holes from the old platform.

thatsmrmastercraft
06-15-2010, 12:18 PM
Thanks, Ox! I'll definitely post 'em as soon as they're taken.

Jim, by they way, I read your restoration thread and am blown away by it. I love the color and am impressed with your work. I also liked the photos of the Corvair. I'm into old cars - I have a 1953 Chevy Pickup and a 1966 Chevelle SS (Clone - has 383 stroker). I will be along shortly with some photos.

I love the classics, whether it be a boat, car, or a lemon-squeezer. They just don't make 'em like they used to. On the lake, my boat gets more stares and thumbs-ups and comments than most of the others out there. What's funny is that I paid less than 4K for my boat, while the other dozen-dimers have spent at least ten times that much. My brother has a 24' Tige and even he's jealous! Ha! Actually, if it weren't for him, I wouldn't be here. It all started when he bought a 1977 MC S&S (tan/brown). Unfortunately, he lost it in a miscommunication with some people doing some work on the trailer. Long story, and a sad one. At any rate, I fell in love with it, so decided to replace his with this one.

The only problem I've noticed is that parts are very difficult to find. I'd like to find, for example, an original seat for a '79. As popular as these old MCs are, I'm just surprised to find that there's not a supplier somewhere. I know there are plenty of suppliers for engine stuff, but I'm really speaking more about the other stuff, from windshields to skegs underneath. I'm looking for an OEM front light, replacement hinges for the engine cowling (not really important as the ones on it work fine, just a little pitted), steering wheel specs (someone said they were originally made by Grant, but I don't know which ones will fit).

Also, I'm wondering about putting a stereo in the boat. Anyone have any ideas on where to put one without having to get too creative? Jim, I saw what you did with the front two speakers, but am wondering where you're putting the amp and the 10' sub.

Also, Jim, I am wanting to replace my swim deck with a teak one. I am considering the folding brackets, as well. I either missed it, or you never stated how you filled in the bolt holes from the old platform.

Great looking boat. That is the color mine was before the PO painted it.

Parts can be difficult. Plenty of time spent on craigslist and eBay will turn up most of what you are looking for. Jim@BAWS is another great source for parts.

As far as the steering wheel goes, it is a 14' wheel (w/approx 3 1/2 dish)with a 3/4" tapered / keyed shaft. Any marine wheel will fit. The alternative is most any grant wheel will fit using Grant Marine wheel adapter GRT-3627-1 $17.95 plus $4.95 freight from Summit Racing. They are one of the few places who have this in stock now. They can usually be gotten from Autozone or Oreilly's.

oxberger
06-15-2010, 12:30 PM
Screw I feel you on the parts. I had to replace a shattered windshield a few years back and found it impossible to get a glass replacement and ended up having it replaced with plexiglass. I've been happy with it so far. Not quite factory reinstall but it does the job well. I just have to remeber to be careful cleaning it to keep it scratch free and not to use the frame to pull myslef up out of the drivers seat.
Reagrding the stereo, there are plenty of threads dedicated to placement and equipment for the old SS. The PO of mine cut a hole in the bottom of the observers seat and must have put in one of the old dual shaft tape decks in. Looks like crap. but I'm pretty much the only one that sees the hole. They also mounted 2 very crappy marine speakers to the bottom of the observers seat. I'm sure the set up was fine back in the late 80's, but there's no way it cuts it for me. I have a Kenwood head unit I'm going to mount in a gimble mount and attach it to the dash. That way it'll be a little more safe from the elements. I may have AMSJim send the extra combing pads he made to me. He built them with cut outs for speakers, but I saw another thread on here somewhere and the person built side wells that created storage and had a place to put speakers and was also removable and didn't need to be screwed in. I also have 2 sets of awesome outdoor speakers I got from a club here in Nashville when they removed them and didn't want them. I know I'll need a lot of power to push them and there is an ohm issue, but those are full range speakers with awesome low end and I could use them as a base for a reconfigured rear seat. Just my. 02. Let us know what you may be thinking about and We'll be happy to throw things at you.

psychobilly
06-15-2010, 04:57 PM
Psychobilly, I haven't ordered a rotary polisher yet, but plan to in the next day or so. I've looked at the Makita 9227 and the DeWalt DW849 (or something like that). I'm hoping to save some money,

I hear ya, it's personal preference ain't it. :-) I looked at the 50 dollar ones but I thought to self, ***OK PB, you ain't got one cheap tool in your shop, why would you start now. You bought that one cheap a$$ sander that time from harbor freight and it didn't even make it through one season of sanding the oyster skiff..... Yeah self, go ahead and order the DeWalt*** LMAO That's how I talked mySELF into getting the DeWalt.

That trip yawl took sounds like a fun trip man! What kind of mileage did you get that day? I ain't sure my big ole beast could do it with out some jerry cans. lol I would like to do a trip like that to see what the 454 BB gets...I know it drinks it purdy good but I ain't got to put but 5 hours of run time on it since we got it.... Work ***, gone 5 weeks and home 3, and I only scored mine last trip home..

Well my DeWalt is being delivered today and the OL should have it when she gets home. I will be busy that first week I'm home.

*** PB gives a thumbs up to ScrewPull***

ScrewPull
06-15-2010, 06:25 PM
Mr. MasterCraft - Thanks a million, amigo, on the steering wheel info!! Now that's what I'm talkin' about! I love good information. Only wish I'd read this an hour ago! I just came from O'Reilly's!! And thanks for the compliments on the boat!

Ox, thanks so much, too, for the info on the stereo issue. Without having read word one on this site, I already had envisioned some kind of side paneling to go from the underside of the gunwales to the floor decking. Not sure how I'll do it, but it shouldn't be too crazy. Right now, I'm using an iHome boom-box iPod apparatus that actually puts out great sound. However, it bites for use while in motion. I had my soft-side cooler full o' cold billies tumble down on top of it, which spilled ice cold water all over it. After the iPod's feelings subsided, it decided to work again. Then it took a tumble down from the dash, onto the observation bench and to the floor. Hurt her feelings again, but she got over it. Btw, I dabble a bit with Mac/Apple products and can tell you that they actually do act like one's five year-old daughter at times... Anyway, I will at some point have a decent stereo. I will hit you up for more information when the time comes.

Psychobilly, you ain't gonna believe this, but I bought that $50 POS rotary. I stood there scratching my neck-knuckle for twenty minutes before deciding to buy it. Funny thing is, I don't recall what the heck my final reasoning was behind the decision, aside from the price. Haven't opened it yet, so I'll probably take it back as I too take your approach on the "I-don't-have-cheap-tools-so-why-start-buyin'-'em-now?" subject. What are you going to use, by the way, once you do get the DW? I scouted O'Reilly's for some compounds, etc, but had no luck. I think I recall someone mentioning a thread earlier that references such information. Think I'll take a look in the rearview...

As far as mileage on the trip down and back up the river... It's about a 55mi trip and I can do it on a tank of gas (I think it's a 20 gallon tank). Much of that depends, of course, on other conditions and how attentive I am to moderation on the throttle. The good thing is that there's a marina with fuel at the other end. The bad thing is that the price per gallon - around 5 bucks - reflects the owner's opinion that his marina is the last chance before entering the wild blue yonder. Come to think of it, it is. Oh well... Think I'm gonna start cartin' a tank or two with me in my truck.

Thumbs-up to you and to Ox and Mr. M. I appreciate your willingness to nurse the newbie! Haha! As for now, I'm goin' Steerin' Wheel shoppin'!

TMCNo1
06-15-2010, 07:42 PM
The much older boat steering wheels usually looked likeor similar to the Classic Series as shown in the Grant site here under Classic Car and Truck, http://www.grantproducts.com/./ The newer boats were/are more like the Marine Series on the same site.
Normally the older boat just had 3 bolts under the center cap that went into the hub and made them very universal and able to be changed out in just a few minutes.

ScrewPull
06-15-2010, 07:49 PM
Thanks, TMC. Just ordered one of the Classic Woodies. I have a '66 Chevelle SS with pretty much the same wheel and I love it.

oxberger
06-16-2010, 08:47 AM
Let's see pics of the Chevelle!

ScrewPull
06-16-2010, 09:58 AM
Here ya go, Ox. I also included one of my truck - a 1953 Chevy. I love both of 'em.

oxberger
06-16-2010, 02:01 PM
Screw, those are AWESOME! When I was in high school, one of my friends bought a Chevelle SS that was the same year. His was red and the body work on it was outstanding. We had rto give him heck though, because he paid the SS price for an SS wanna be. I'm not saying I know everything about all Chevy's or SS, but we knew when we looked at it that it wasn't. The engine was a built up 350 (not the 383 or 454), the front seat was a bench, and the shifter was a 2 speed powerglide. It did have all the SS badges though and was a really cool car, just not what he thought it was. So when does the steering wheel for the boat come in? What will you be doing to it after the wheel replacement?

ScrewPull
06-16-2010, 03:49 PM
Say, Ox! Thanks for the compliments! Yeah, I knew what I was gettin' when I bought it. I love it even still. The beauty of it is that I didn't pay an arm and a leg for it. Only the die-hards know the difference, although it matters not to me. It's a bad *** sled whether it's the genuine article or not. With that, I think most people would agree. I gotta laugh at your buddy though for not knowin'. Hell, though, we all learn our lessons... I am leanin' a bunch as we speak.

Anyway, talk about die-hards... Go buy a classic Chrysler product... If it ain't the genuine article, with numbers matching, etc, then it ain't Sh*t! Aside from that, the parts are unrealistically expensive. A little over a year ago, I bought a 1967 Dodge Coronet 500. Went a-searchin' for parts, etc all over the net. Joined the forums, etc. It was an unsavory experience all the way around. Give ya an example... A single clear lens measuring about two by four by two that covers lights on the bumper that are on either side of the license plate... $160. For a freakin' little piece of clear plastic. A tail light assembly? $500 to $800. At prices like those, it would've cost a couple hundred grand to restore that dang thing! Anyway, I sold it a major loss, but was happy to get rid of it.

Well, yeah, I ordered the wheel and adapter. Got the Walnut wood Grant 213 wheel. Killer! It's a half inch smaller than what Mr. MC quoted, but I got a great deal on it. I already have the pinstriping in hand and ordered my new logos (the backward-leaning letters) and the stars yesterday. Bought a cheap rotary polisher and now just need to get the compounds, although I'm having a little difficulty deciding what to go with. I read a bit on some stuff called Farelca Total that supposedly works wonders, but it's for cars. Farelca makes a Gelcoat Restorer, however, that I would love to try, but there's such limited information - even on their website (and I think they're based in England) - as to how to use the stuff, that I'm not too sure. It's supposed to be a one-step deal, but I just don't see rubbing something on my boat by hand that's going to do any good without the added muscle of a rotary. Who knows... I also saw a Youtube gelcoat resto video by 3M that mentions only one of the several products mentioned on TT (the 3M Perfect It). It's getting confusing. Haha!

Once I figure that out, I'll get to work on it, but it will be a couple of weeks while I await the arrival of all the goodies.

The other things I have in mind are driver's seat replacement, although I am plenty happy with the one in it. Not sure what the brand is, but it works (and looks) fine to me. I am looking for a 1979 original, though, but will wait to put it in until I need to replace the skins. That won't be for awhile though as the current upholstery looks nearly brand new...

The front of the boat along the V toward the front has some pretty decent scrapes that need addressing, but can likely wait awhile. I may just use the boat through the season and address all issues closer to winter time. Not sure. What I do know is this. I live in Houston. The boat is in Austin (2.5 hours away). When I go to Austin on the weekends, I'm more prone to go floatin' than I am to workin' and burnin' my *** off in my brother's driveway sweatin' elbow-grease from even my freakin' EYE-lids (it's REALLY hot in Texas, especially this summer)!

That's really it as far as my boat. What about yours? Do I recall that you're boatless, or that you're currently in the project stages? I just don't recall off the top of my head.

oxberger
06-16-2010, 04:42 PM
Glad you got rid of the Chrysler. I've always been partial to the old Chevy's and Ford's myself. I had a '63 Impala 4 door hardtop, the one without the door posts. I got it in 1988, it was my grandmothers. Only had 55,000 miles on it. I was in an accident (my stupid fault) in 1999 and it had over 235,000 miles on it. Took the engine out and dropped it into a ratty '67 Chevy pick up. Drove that until the engine just couldn't give anymore... 319,000 miles. Had the 327 bored .060 over with the quadrajunk carb and 2 speed powerglide. Man I miss that thing.

Regarding the compound, I would stick with the 3M stuff. It seems everyone on here swears by their products. Not sure how bad your oxidization is, so I'm not sure where you'd start off (wet sanding with 600, 800, or finer grit, then compound, then wax). That's great that your interior is in good shape, less to worry about for awhile. I'm definately with you when it comes to working in the heat. If you can enjoy the boat the way it is now and start putting your list together for the winter projects. Not sure where you'd find an original seat. I do believe the drivers seats were all the same for many years maybe Jim@BAWS can help out with that. I do have an '85 SS I'm restoring, just going very, very slow due to money issues. I did start on the teak swim platform, waiting on the gas tank to come back from a friend to see if he was able to get it clean. The engine is in great shape and just needs the fluids, the filters, and impellar replaced before running. Uhpolstery and carpet are shot, and the clearcoat is badly oxidized. I think that will be the cheapest project and the next step, but I'm going to have to do it by hand. I don;t know anyone around me that has the power tools I could borrow to do it.

Napagary
06-16-2010, 05:30 PM
Just chim'min in here - Oxberger is right on w/ the 3M advice. I have a Makita polisher, use a hook/loop 7" foam waffle pad and looking at my variable speed adjustable wheel knob, it looks like I run it at about 900-1100RPM - you've got to experiment here. I'm using 3M "Perfect-It II Foam Polishing Pad Glaze". They offer a "Dark" and "Light" compound. They recommend you use a dark(black) foam pad w/ the Dark Glaze and a white foam pad for the Light Glaze. 'Believe that's stretching it a bit - I've lived on the dark side by using the Dark Glaze w/ a white pad and 'am still around to tell you guys about it!! These products get expensive so experiment a bit before buying all they recommend.
I brought back a 1976 hull, heavily chalked, by just using the above products. There is a learning curve using the polisher but dive in, you'll love it once it starts clickin' for ya.

psychobilly
06-16-2010, 06:28 PM
Psychobilly, you ain't gonna believe this, but I bought that $50 POS rotary. What are you going to use, by the way, once you do get the DW? I scouted O'Reilly's for some compounds, etc, but had no luck. I think I recall someone mentioning a thread earlier that references such information. Think I'll take a look in the rearview...

As far as mileage on the trip down and back up the river... It's about a 55mi trip and I can do it on a tank of gas (I think it's a 20 gallon tank). Much of that depends, of course, on other conditions and how attentive I am to moderation on the throttle. The good thing is that there's a marina with fuel at the other end. The bad thing is that the price per gallon - around 5 bucks - reflects the owner's opinion that his marina is the last chance before entering the wild blue yonder. Come to think of it, it is. Oh well... Think I'm gonna start cartin' a tank or two with me in my truck.

Thumbs-up to you and to Ox and Mr. M. I appreciate your willingness to nurse the newbie! Haha! As for now, I'm goin' Steerin' Wheel shoppin'!

I got this one with ALL the polishing wheels. ***go to ebay and look up this item number 200482241637*** <<<<That's the unit I got and it has all of the wheels.

I have a buddy that has a 65' houseboat and the guy that owns the Marina where it's docked scored him a 1977 36' Fountain (((CHEAP))). It was BADLY oxidized yeller ((fadded to pooo)) and he brought it back to NEW! It's amazin!!!!!! He suggested, as many here have, the 3M Heavy Duty first, then there's another medium polish, and then finally the wax. He told ma the trick is keep the polisher moving or you will burn the gelcoat. Keep the compound wet and don't let it dry out. He suggest a lil spray bottle of water on your hip ready.

There are several post in here about guys doing this. Just search gelcoat or gel coat and you will find several threads on this. Mostly I have seen the 3M products used (I got mine from West Marine) but there was another guy that had posted in here a few weeks ago about another product that was hands down better...

Me and my OL are in for an all weekend project when I get home as our boat is HUGE!!!! ***pics in my album*** The 240SC has a lot of Gelcoat fer sure ;)

I ain't sure how big our tank is... 30 or 40 gal I recon and that ole big block likes to drink! HA I make sure I go left out of the boat storage to the gas station down the road and then go back the other way to the lake. :)

I like that ole pick-up truck.

Like I was say'n, I have about 3 more weeks here in OZ before I get to head home, but I will be taking pics and posting my compound project on here then. I'll be following yours too man! GL ;)