PDA

View Full Version : Holley 4160


dchatagnon
06-28-2005, 06:04 PM
Hey,

I just bought a new carb Holley 4160 from skidim for my 93' prostar.
Everything is working fine. But I'm wondering when the 4 barrels are open? After warming up? choke adjustment?
I was looking whith the engine cold, and I saw only the 2 barrels (front ones) opening when I was playing with the idlle?

thanks for all your reply.

Damien

east tx skier
06-28-2005, 06:11 PM
Basically, somewhere headed toward the ski speeds. Bury the throttle, they'll open up.

robisjo
06-28-2005, 06:13 PM
I am no mechanic but like to tinker once in a while. It is my understanding the other two barrels only open when needed, like when you punch it. When cruising and idling the carb only uses two barrels. If it used all four, you would get really bad gas mileage.

G-man
06-28-2005, 06:50 PM
They open around 3400 rpms sstart pulling skiers at 34-36 mph and you'll know they are open as you watch the gas guage, just a slight exageration

FrankSchwab
06-28-2005, 06:55 PM
They open when you've got the throttle pushed all the way forward, and the engine RPM's are climbing.

The secondaries aren't designed to meter small amounts of fuel like the primaries; they can't do that very well. They're designed to move a lot of air, and get a lot of fuel into it; to do that, the engine has to be spinning fast enough to suck in a lot of air, and the throttle has to be pushed open enough to let the air through.

Try looking at full throttle with a boat speed over 30 or so. They should be wide open.

/frank

Cloaked
06-28-2005, 10:28 PM
.......Try looking at full throttle with a boat speed over 30 or so. They should be wide open.

My favorite part! :D :D






You can hear the carb suck when you're gouging on it.... :steering:

HowZ about a pic of the 93 model yEr tinkering with??

Tennesseeski
07-08-2005, 05:24 AM
I guess this is as good a place as any to ask this question. I ordered the 4160 for my boat last week and when I got it I realized mine is a dual feed and the one I got was a single feed. So I take it back and have them send me the dual feed which is a 4150 I think. After lookin at it today I notice the place where each gas line screws in on mine on the boat is straight and on the new carb are at an angle?? Will this matter?? :confused: I tried every number on my old carb at the holley web site and nothing came up. Man at place I ordered it from said holley only makes a few marine carbs and that has to be it? Yes it is a holly, says so right on the carb.Anyone have an idea here? The bowls on my old one don't have four bolts on each so you can remove the bowls like the new one. Is a dual feed better or worse than a single feed? What does everyone else think cause I am clueless. :confused: My friend who works on motors says the duel feed is better.

jake
07-08-2005, 10:56 AM
You may have the 4110, which is the dual feed common to 93's. Many have switched to the 4160 single feed from the 4110. The dual feed 4110 is known for hot stalls.

Based on what I know, I'd get that 4160 back and convert to the single feed.

Tennesseeski
07-08-2005, 11:49 AM
How hard is it to switch from the dual to the single?

MarkP
07-08-2005, 12:00 PM
How hard is it to switch from the dual to the single?
I think you just need to change the fuel line and you’ll be ok.
http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1117

martini
07-08-2005, 12:14 PM
As far as secondaries opening up, they work on engine vacuum and load. Since there is no load when you are "revving it" in neutral or just tinkering with the idle, the back 2 barrels will not open.

PegLeg
07-12-2005, 11:10 AM
That's a 4010 not 4110 and the hot stall is easy to adjust out. Because of the inherent slant of the inboard engine, the float has to be lowered more than exactly level to keep fuel from dripping when motor is quickly shut off.

east tx skier
07-12-2005, 11:29 AM
Pegleg is right about the 4010 being the OEM carb on the 351 HOs of the early 90s. The 4150 is the dual feed carb Holley is offering now and from what I have seen, they run like champs. However, from my investigation into all of this a year or so ago, if you got that 4150 from anywhere but Indmar, I'll bet it has mechanical secondaries as opposed to vacuum secondaries. Just something to consider.

I'm far from a mechanic, which is why I let the pros tinker with my boat. I've been very happy with my local tournament inboard mechanics, even though neither of them could adjust the hot stall out of my boat. With the 4160, I don't have to wait in the water while the driver pumps the throttle and cranks and hurries to take up the slack before the boat stalls again.

PegLeg, I'm glad you've been able to work with yours and I'm certainly not dismissing what you've said. But if it were that easy to adjust out, I can't imagine PCM would've recalled it on their engines in the early nineties. That said, the float adjustment would definitely be something to try before someone drops all that cash on a new carb.

As for the 4160 retrofit, Mark is right. A new fuel line for about $12 at skidim is the ticket.

starman205
07-12-2005, 11:44 AM
Pegleg, where is the float adjustment on the 4010 Carburator, I have a 1993 205 prostar and am starting to experience the hotstall problem. :(

east tx skier
07-12-2005, 11:58 AM
Starman, on this picture, (A) is the float adjustment screw. I think the carb pictured is a Holley avenger.

PegLeg
07-15-2005, 01:40 PM
Starman

I made it sound simplier than it really is, in the above picture the A marks the external float adjustment screw/nut. Loosen the screw and with 5/8 wrench turn the nut while holding the screw in place. Clockwise lowers the float which is what you want to do. This lowers the fuel level in the bowl.

East Tx.: My source in Alabama(Lex @ Rambo marine) tends to think that hot stall is caused by fuel boil, causing the fuel to be forced past the fuel inlet needle and seat causing a flooding condition. Have you heard this explanation before.

Starman/ East Tx
How long have you had the 205 and did this start happening all at once.

starman205
07-15-2005, 01:48 PM
I bought the boat used with 300 hrs on it. After reading this thread, i believe I have had the problem from the beginning only did not realize it. The boat now has about 480 hrs on it and the hot stall issue is increasing in frequency. :(

starman205
07-15-2005, 01:49 PM
oops i should have titled the last post 4010 hot stall. 8p

east tx skier
07-15-2005, 02:33 PM
Starman

East Tx.: My source in Alabama(Lex @ Rambo marine) tends to think that hot stall is caused by fuel boil, causing the fuel to be forced past the fuel inlet needle and seat causing a flooding condition. Have you heard this explanation before.

Starman/ East Tx
How long have you had the 205 and did this start happening all at once.

Is that Lex in the parts dept or Lex Rambo?

My source of info on the 4010, apart from the board, are the mechanics from Southwest Correct Craft. Both are very knowledgeable and user friendly. CC used the 4010 around the same time MC/Indmar did, but recalled it. Indmar did not. Neither of them mentioned the float level as a culprit, but did spend a lot of time tinkering with it after a full rebuild. If that is a good fix, excellent. I just can't imagine that PCM would recall these carbs if the fix was as easy as the turn of a screw. But again, I'm no mechanic and haven't had this carb for the last very satisfying, 4160-using year. The explanation for the hot stalls they gave me was that the 4010 was heat sensitive which, when coupled with the fact that the bowl design permitted a lot of fuel to slosh back down the venturis, caused it to stall. Restarts were accomplished by lots of throttle pumping. Afterwards, it would idle like crap.

I've had my 205 since 02/2003. The problem showed up on my first long voyage, persisted through a full professional rebuild, and ended when I replaced the carb with the 4160.

BriEOD
07-15-2005, 02:48 PM
Not to throw more fuel on the fire (no pun intended) but Vince at Ski DIM was telling me about this when I replaced my intake manifold this year. Apparently the regular 351 W intake gaskets you can get at a auto parts store can cause hard start and their are some gaskets adapted for marine 351 W use.

Per Ski DIM's website:

"A restrictor (smaller hole) in this gasket reduces the amount of exhaust gas that flows across the manifold thereby heating the manifold which had been causing the carb to boil fuel and caused hard re-starts (vapor locking) and IDLE INCONSISTENCY."

east tx skier
07-15-2005, 02:56 PM
Yeah. My gaskets had the restrictor on them though. When I replaced them, I had to get a new set from SWCC b/c the auto parts store didn't have the right match. Plus, once I got the new carb, no more idle problems.

PegLeg
07-18-2005, 11:53 AM
Brieod

This a common problem on a lot of marine applications. I had the same problem with my 1988 Chris Craft with 4.3 V6. And it is commonly called "vapor lock". The service manual reconized this and offered some solutions(high flow fuel pump, thicker insulation gaskets, water coolers, and fuel line insulation. In this case I insulated fuel lines, used asbestos gasket, and lowered float level as far as I could without getting transition hesitation. We have lowed the float level on mine and my buddies 1993 Prostar 205 after rebuilding them with Holley Trick kits and they both start on a dime after 1 or two hour pause. I did install a brand new 4160, List#80319, but just was not happy with the way it pulled wake boarders. Read up on the 4010, and decided that it was worth a go for rebuild plus it is about as simple as you can get for rebuild and tuning.

My 2 cents.

PL

PegLeg
07-18-2005, 01:35 PM
ETS

I did insulate the gas line and used a insulation gasket, but that only solved the problem on the MC PS 205 when the shut down was less than 10-20 minutes, the real solution was to lower the float to a level that did not stop fuel from getting to the accelerator pump when you pulled up skier. The way to see this with your own eyes is to be patient and wait with a flash light and periodically look down through the air horn and you will see a very small dribble into the intake after about 20 min of shut down, dependining on float level. That bad idle afterwards is caused by the hot boiled gas still in the bowl, it cleans up after the bowl gets fresh fuel, and with the float level very low the fresh fuel is almost instant. My motocross bike has an overflow vent that works when the float sinks during a landing from a very high jump. This may work on this carb to, but I have not figured out a way to safely install one yet. There is another guy on this site that has a lot of experience with carbs that I would like to hear his opinion on vapor lock solutions.

PL

east tx skier
07-18-2005, 01:37 PM
PegLeg, good to know. I'll have to mention it to my inboard mechanic next time I see him. For me, it is no longer an issue as that carb is part of my past.

PegLeg
07-18-2005, 02:10 PM
ETS

If you want to completely rid yourself of that nightmare, I will buy the 4010 from you if you still have it.

PL

east tx skier
07-18-2005, 03:47 PM
Sorry, too late. After a full disclosure, I sold it to someone who was having an entirely different set of problems with a 4010 last year for $75.