Grab/Tow Rail PS197

[Andyg]

Does anyone have any pictures of the rear grab/tow rail installed on a PS197. I just picked one up and wanted to see some photos of one installed before I started my installation. Any help would be great. I attached two pictures, one is of the current back of the boat and the other is of the grab rail.

Thanks

Andyg

[rodltg2]

i dont know anything about it , but post pics and instal info when done in would be interested in adding one as well

[Ric]

Does anyone have any pictures of the rear grab/tow rail installed on a PS197. I just picked one up and wanted to see some photos of one installed before I started my installation. Any help would be great. I attached two pictures, one is of the current back of the boat and the other is of the grab rail.

Thanks

Andyg
here is the best I can do at the moment
I'll shoot a better pic tonight and post it

[Andyg]

I ended up getting one with LEDs. I guess it is that pimp factor again. Here is a picture with the leds in the rail.

[Andyg]

here is the best I can do at the moment
I'll shoot a better pic tonight and post it

Ric,
Looking at the picture of yours it appears they changed the design as compared to the one I have. The installation appears to be similar though. The pictures will definetly help. Did you install it yourself?

Later

Andy

[captkidd]

Can't speak from experience, but it looks like it would work best if installed right above the MasterCraft decal on the back (with 1/2"-1" spacing above the decal). I would recommend putting some pretty serious aluminum backing plates on it, just for peace of mind. Also, double check to make sure that you won't be drilling into anything important (like a gas tank). My suggestion for mounting would be as follows:
- determine where you want it
- put several strips of masking tape under each mounting point
- draw an outline around each mounting point with a pencil or Sharpie (on the tape of course)
- put some lipstick on the holes where the bolts will go, then place the tow bar on the masking tape, using the outlines to line it up
- the lipstick should leave a mark where the holes need to be drilled
- Post a picture to show us how cool it looks.

[Andyg]

Can't speak from experience, but it looks like it would work best if installed right above the MasterCraft decal on the back (with 1/2"-1" spacing above the decal). I would recommend putting some pretty serious aluminum backing plates on it, just for peace of mind. Also, double check to make sure that you won't be drilling into anything important (like a gas tank). My suggestion for mounting would be as follows:
- determine where you want it
- put several strips of masking tape under each mounting point
- draw an outline around each mounting point with a pencil or Sharpie (on the tape of course)
- put some lipstick on the holes where the bolts will go, then place the tow bar on the masking tape, using the outlines to line it up
- the lipstick should leave a mark where the holes need to be drilled
- Post a picture to show us how cool it looks.


It actually fits perfectly in line with the rub rail. It has cut outs for where the rub rail terminates inside the grab/tow rail. However the issue I have is that I have to remove approx 8-10 inches of rub rail at the back of the boat. about 4 inches on each side of the metal cover that is currently there. Under the rub rail is a groove that is used to install the rub rail screws in to prevent the gelcoat from cracking. This groove needs to be covered with something. My plan was to use a stainless steel strap between the grab rail and the gelcoat to cover that. Then use another stainless steel strap on the inside for the bolts to go through.

[Ric]

No, I didn't do mine myself, it came on the boat, so I'm no help there.
Yes, I thought your pic looked different than the oem grabrail on mine, where did you get that one?
I know it installs at the rubrail and does appear to require removing some rubrail but I would have thought they'd supplied you with a trim piece for a job like that??

[RobertT]

I need to do the same thing. I like the LED thingy...how hard was that to wire? I assume you tie into the existing courtesy lights circuit?

[east tx skier]

Different boat. Different era, but perhaps some ideas as to where they have installed these things in years past.

[east tx skier]

Of course, at least according to this picture, they're putting them in with the grab rail now.

[Andyg]

No, I didn't do mine myself, it came on the boat, so I'm no help there.
Yes, I thought your pic looked different than the oem grabrail on mine, where did you get that one?
I know it installs at the rubrail and does appear to require removing some rubrail but I would have thought they'd supplied you with a trim piece for a job like that??


You would think MC would supply some type of trim piece. It appears it was made out of billet aluminum and machined as compared to the steel tube version that is in the picture above.

I bought this one from MYMC, it is the LED one he has on his website. He told me they don't get any trim pieces or hardware when they get these in. He remembered having to make a trim piece out of stainless steel to make things look good.

[Andyg]

I need to do the same thing. I like the LED thingy...how hard was that to wire? I assume you tie into the existing courtesy lights circuit?

I actually wired in another switch where my ballast switches would be if I had ballast. It takes a little preplanning but wasn't too difficult. Again the hardest thing to do is drilling through the hull, just the pucker factor. The LEds I had installed in the rail by Neil at litupelectronics.com. If you order one from MYMC I beleive they usually come with the LEDs already installed.

[Andyg]

It's installed. What a pain in the a$$. I had to put three pieces of aluminum against the hull where the rub rail was removed. I am going to have them chrome plated at some point. If you are going to do this make sure you have a swivel socket so you can tighten down the bolts. I am really impressed with the finished product. Here are a couple fo photos. Kudos to Neil and April at litupelectronics.com the LEDs look awesome.

[sizzler]

looks good andy ...very bling

[Diesel]

Very nice job!! Looks good.............

[Ric]

It's installed. What a pain in the a$$. I had to put three pieces of aluminum against the hull where the rub rail was removed. I am going to have them chrome plated at some point. If you are going to do this make sure you have a swivel socket so you can tighten down the bolts. I am really impressed with the finished product. Here are a couple fo photos. Kudos to Neil and April at litupelectronics.com the LEDs look awesome.

Very Nice work Andy.

DO NOT chrome those aluminum parts.
I made some aluminum gunwale trim pieces for a Fountain a few years ago and had them chromed and they started bubbling up under the chrome plate from corrosion within 6 months!
I may have some before and after pics around here somewhere.
The reaction scared us so much (saltwater boat, which no doubt sped the process), we went back and made them from stainless.

If you do anything, have the parts clear anodized. (I'm assuming the part from mymc is already anodized)

[captkidd]

Looks good. Apparently all of our advice really helped (not).

Now if you could get those LEDs to come on when the trailer brakes are activated....

[Andyg]

Very Nice work Andy.

DO NOT chrome those aluminum parts.
I made some aluminum gunwale trim pieces for a Fountain a few years ago and had them chromed and they started bubbling up under the chrome plate from corrosion within 6 months!
I may have some before and after pics around here somewhere.
The reaction scared us so much (saltwater boat, which no doubt sped the process), we went back and made them from stainless.

If you do anything, have the parts clear anodized. (I'm assuming the part from mymc is already anodized)


The benefit for me is that I can get the stuff chromed for free. Also chrome plating is a very good corrosion protectant as long as it is used in fresh water like where I am. Granted stainless is still better, but I like shiny chrome.

[Ric]

The benefit for me is that I can get the stuff chromed for free. Also chrome plating is a very good corrosion protectant as long as it is used in fresh water like where I am. Granted stainless is still better, but I like shiny chrome.
All I can do is warn you.
That custom piece you have, is it shiny? Not shiny enough?
The new aluminum stuff on these boats is pretty shiny stuff and it's anodized after polishing.