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Meadracing
06-05-2010, 03:50 PM
Well I'm back for vacation and starting my resto thread like I told everyone so lets get started. Today I got the boat on jack stands and lifted it off the trailer. I pulled the trailer out pretty much like everyone else has done moving jack for every cross brace. I think I will do it differnt when I put it back on the trailer but that willl be covered later. here are some pics of the trailer. I will finish the trailer first and then get to the rest of the boat. See my other threar What Did I Get Myself Into for previous pics.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1663

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1664

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1665

broncotw
06-05-2010, 03:59 PM
Awesome...... Keep up posted with many pictures along the way.....

Meadracing
06-05-2010, 04:01 PM
more pics

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1668

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1670

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1667

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1669

83SuperSlot
06-05-2010, 04:05 PM
holy smokes! Is that thing stable on those stands?!? I would think that it would we really risky to do that....

:confused:

Meadracing
06-06-2010, 12:17 PM
Took the fenders off and bunks off this morning. Almost got everything off but it was just to hot outside. lots of work to do on frame. You can see in the pictures below the rust and damage. P.S. is one of the rear bunk frames suposed to be bent in or are they both suposed to be straight? Any recommendations on how to clean and paint the trailer?

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1672

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1674

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1673

cbryan70
06-06-2010, 12:39 PM
that trailer....does not look so good

JLeuck64
06-06-2010, 01:02 PM
Those bunkers look pretty far gone. Have you considered cutting them out and replacing with new channel steel?

Meadracing
06-06-2010, 01:06 PM
I will be replacing any metal that is to far gone by welding in new pieces.

cbryan70
06-06-2010, 01:34 PM
a New trailer for that boat might not be a bad option either.....Are you going to blast it to see what is left?

Meadracing
06-06-2010, 01:44 PM
I didnt really want to spend 2 grand on a new trailer. Media blasting is not out of the question but I am having a hard time finding somewhere close to do it. Might just sand blast it myself

oxberger
06-07-2010, 10:52 AM
Mead, that trailer looks really rough. Good luck in bringing it back. I looked at mine yesterday and noticed that it's not road worthy, there are holes in parts of the frame from rust. I'm curious to see how this goes for and would be curious of the money and time you put in vs. new. If there's anything I can help with let me know. BTW that bunk should not be bent.

87MCProstar
06-07-2010, 11:49 AM
i'd be afriad to media blast that thing, the only thing left maybe the tires...best of luck to you on the trailer resto, looks like you'll get a break when you hit the boat.

Meadracing
06-07-2010, 04:28 PM
Did some work on the pylon and bracket today. What do you think. Still need base bracket that is glassed into hull, any sugestions?

Before
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1682

After
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1681

you could of had a MC
06-07-2010, 04:49 PM
I have a '83 MC trailer, I am located in the sotheastern part of washington state, NO RUST in good shape new tires all lights work. $600 you pay shipping.

Meadracing
06-07-2010, 08:01 PM
Sent the pylon with my buddy to a machine shop tonight so will see what it looks like tomarrow. It did clean up fairly welll with a wirewheel and emory cloth. Tryed a couple diffrent rust remover/ reformer products on the trailer tonight but none really made any difference. Still trying to decide on which route to take with the trailer. I can really bring the trailer to a sandblast/media shop because it is not registered and has no lights. Option 1 is to sandblast the trailer myself which would require me to by a air compressor and all sand blasting equipment. Option 2 would be to grind off all the rust I can, repair frame by welding in new pieces of metal and coating the entire trailer with POR15. Any thoughts. I need to get this trailer done asap because it is talking up room at the house

milehigh970
06-07-2010, 08:08 PM
Man.. I would be looking for a deal like "you could of had a MC" has. Hate to see to put the time and money into that trailer to still have a unsafe or unroadworthy trailer. The pylon looks great though! Keep it up ;)

americanskierJim
06-07-2010, 10:25 PM
Mead, That pylon looks good. Hope you can fix your trailer. Keep up the good work.

oxberger
06-08-2010, 10:00 AM
Mead, i'd say save the time and headache and buy you could have had an MC trailer. Time wise and money wise it makes sense. If I had the money I'd snatch that up myself.

Meadracing
06-08-2010, 03:31 PM
Got the Pylon back today from machenist. Still some pitting at the bottom but atleast it is all the same size again.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1687

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1686

thatsmrmastercraft
06-08-2010, 04:29 PM
That looks a lot better.

oxberger
06-08-2010, 04:56 PM
Looks good on th pylon. Any decision on the trailer?

americanskierJim
06-10-2010, 07:57 AM
Mead, Mine has some pitting to but it shouldnt be seen when it is on the boat. Hows the trailer comming along? I am also looking to buy a trailer but just for the fenders one of mine is real bad.

Meadracing
06-10-2010, 05:11 PM
Got everything off the trailer. Will start grinding then painting within the next day or 2. I also have to fix my fenders. The back corners where the guides come throiugh are broken. I'll post pictures soon.

Meadracing
06-11-2010, 09:47 PM
Ok, went and got some paint today. I have a lighter color that looks very close to the color the trailer is now/ and I have a darker tan that is very close to the color of the boat. Which should I go with. What do you guys think? I will be grinding the trailer starting wendsday and painting a bottom layer of POR15 and then painting over that with the tan color.

SunCoast 83
06-12-2010, 03:02 AM
are you in Florida?

I would go with the trailer from You Could Have Had An MC.....you dont want to change the original look and use an aftermarket trailer, but if this MC Trailer is in good shape its worth consideration.

Thats a grat looking boat you have there, as always it is great to see these ski machines brought back from the grave. They still turn heads after all these years...

americanskierJim
06-12-2010, 10:11 AM
I will buy "You could have an MC" Trailer if no one is going to jump on it. I need new fenders for mine. Thread jack done

Meadracing
06-12-2010, 11:29 AM
I am in florida Jay. No I'm not going to buy MC's trailer. Just going to fix mine, it will be fine. Dose anyone have thoughts on trailer color?

SunCoast 83
06-14-2010, 03:20 AM
Use the brown featured on the boat...I think it was actually called Root Beer. I would add new rims and tire, guidepost covers, hardware and you should have a showroom tralier

Meadracing
06-17-2010, 02:28 PM
Hubs getting painted and old bearings. Trailer work tonight.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1738

oxberger
06-17-2010, 03:31 PM
Trailer work is a huge PIA to me. I'd rather get another one and and take care of one thats already been completed.

Jim, what will you do with your trailer if you get could of had an MC's? I hate being broke because I would have jumped all over that.

americanskierJim
06-17-2010, 06:20 PM
I will end up keeping mine unless someone is in real need for it then I would sell it. "You could have MC" is going to send me pics of his trailer. If it looks good I am going to make a run and pick it up. I was tossing some numbers around toda with mine and it would be better for me to get another one in better shape than mine is.

Meadracing
06-19-2010, 07:49 PM
First coat of POR 15 going on front part of trailer. Wire brushed first and then started painting.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1741

Sorry for the finger


http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1742

americanskierJim
06-21-2010, 09:34 AM
Mead, Trailer is looking great with the POR15 on it should last for sometime. What are you going to do with the rear channel that is bad weld on new ends?

Meadracing
06-21-2010, 11:18 AM
Yes, going to weld on some more metal to strengthen it.

Meadracing
06-21-2010, 10:53 PM
All coated except last portion of rear bunk braces. Welding in new metal tomarrow night then one more coat of POR15 and then color. Looking forward to put trailer back together. more pics.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1743


http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1744

Meadracing
06-25-2010, 11:37 AM
Update: POR15 is all done, thank god. Rear bunk frame metal is welded in. Its just a patch job but should be fine. Starting to paint with color now. I'll get pics up tomarrow.

Jeff N.
06-25-2010, 09:50 PM
Hubs getting painted and old bearings. Trailer work tonight.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1738

I think I have the same trailer. What bearing and seals did you use? Do you have part numbers?

TIA!

Jeff

Meadracing
06-28-2010, 08:48 PM
Done painting color on the parts of the frame that are visible. Jeff, I will post the part numbers for the bearings when I get all the parts tomarrow. The big bearing race and seal is some odd ball size so it took awaile to find the correct ones. I need to get new carpeting and hardeware for bunks. I will hopefully be reinstalling the hubs and bearings tomarrow. Also painted wheels just for kicks. P.S. my welds are not very pretty but they will get the job done.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1754

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1753

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1755

oxberger
06-29-2010, 11:08 AM
Way to go Mead! Looking good. This is making me think I might be able to salvage mine. Especially if Jim doesn't get another trailer.

Meadracing
07-01-2010, 02:39 PM
Can anyone recommend a trailer light kit?

CruisinGA
07-01-2010, 02:43 PM
I used one like this: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200324547_200324547

On our utility trailer. Worked great until someone who borrowed the trailer knocked a light off :rolleyes:

Anything LED and submersible ought to do the trick.
http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/127976_lg.jpg

Meadracing
07-03-2010, 11:52 AM
Working on the fenders today doing some fiberglass work. The rear coners were broken off. Previous owner fixed on side, (not good). I'm fixing the other fender and some cracks.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1762

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1763

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1764

Napagary
07-04-2010, 01:13 PM
Nice looking repairs - you've done this before right?

Meadracing
07-04-2010, 01:19 PM
no, never worked with fiberglass before. I had help from someone at work. Good practice for stringers and floor.

Meadracing
07-06-2010, 08:08 PM
Bunks are on. Finishing the V tomarrow. Starting on repairing second fender that PO meesed up on repair job. You can see in the picture the fender on the right is the one we repaired and the one on the left is PO's job.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1765

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1767

Meadracing
07-07-2010, 08:28 PM
got the front V done, just need to finish the fenders.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1774

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1775

AZDave
07-07-2010, 08:45 PM
No one will be suggesting trailer replacement following these posts!

nitro5238
07-08-2010, 12:51 AM
I agree with AZDave.....if this trailer was able to be saved then any trailer can be. Great job so far Meadracing.....looking forward to seeing those fenders all spit and polished!

Meadracing
07-10-2010, 04:35 PM
Trailer is all done except for stickers and a couple other small things. I will try to put the boat back on tomarrow. I will also get better pictures but here are some.

Finishing up wiring.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1776

All done
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1777

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1778

Meadracing
07-12-2010, 10:11 PM
Trailer is back under the boat. Now the real work can start. Engine and tranny come out this weekend.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1779

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1780

Meadracing
07-15-2010, 09:05 PM
Dose anyone know of an easyer way to get old carpet out? I don't know what they used to attached the carpet to the floor adn hull but it is hard to get off.

oxberger
07-16-2010, 03:42 PM
Dang mead, nice job on the trailer! I will be referring back to this for sure. In regards to the carpet, I don't think there really is an easier way. I would start from the back pulling slowly a little a t a time. The glue or adhesive they used is a huge pain to remove. The best thing for that would be sanding, sanding and more sanding until it just blends into the floor. Just a suggestion if you can do it, I would go with snap in carpet. Good luck on the next part of the project!

oxberger
07-16-2010, 03:42 PM
Oh yeah, americanskierJim might have some tips about the carpet too. Hopefully he'll chime in, but he may be out enjoying his finished restore.

hosofpayne
07-16-2010, 05:32 PM
we used a power washer and it worked well but glue was from 1982 .....also I got carpet started then wrapped rope on it and hooked it to a electric ceiling winch

americanskierJim
07-17-2010, 01:21 PM
Mead, Great work looks wonderful nice job.

Meadracing
07-17-2010, 01:39 PM
Update: today we pulled the motor out. We also seperated the tranny from the motor and put the motor on and engine stand. I pulled of the plattform. Every motor mount and tranny mount lag bolt was pulled out by hand. There is litteraly only the fiberglass shell of the stringers left. This acttualy makes my job somewhat easier due to my idea of using composite stringers. Anyway, I know how you all like pictures so heres somemore.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1803

NO Platform
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1802

Tranny
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1801

Engine
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1800

joecarew3
07-17-2010, 01:40 PM
Cut the carpet down into strips, the smaller the strip the easier it will pull. Use vice grips or channel locks and roll the carpet up a bit to get a good grab.
On a side note. Tomorrow doesn't have an "A" in it. Not that it's a big deal.

Meadracing
07-17-2010, 01:40 PM
Where did the engine go?
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1804

Cloaked
07-17-2010, 05:59 PM
Cut the carpet down into strips, the smaller the strip the easier it will pull. Use vice grips or channel locks and roll the carpet up a bit to get a good grab.
On a side note. Tomorrow doesn't have an "A" in it. Not that it's a big deal.
With that method, you have no template for cutting the new pieces. It's worth the headache to have the carpet in one piece as reasonable as possible.

Meadracing
07-19-2010, 09:18 PM
Got the floors out today and man I am sore. Great advise Joe on cutting the carpet into strips. There is no way I could have gotten that stuff out any other way. Other than the carpet, everything came out fairly easy. A couple of observations and questions.
- I thought that each side of the floor was a complete piece but they were in 2 pieces. makes sense cause that would be one long piece of plywood.
- The floors and possibly the stringers have been done before becuase there was alot of trash under the floor and a squirt gun.
- Is there suposed to be foam under the floors?
- Are outside stringer suposed to be striaght up? My have a slight lean to them.


Cutting carpet in strips and ripping out
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1816


Squirt Gun I found under floor
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1820


Still need to take out gas tank
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1821



Stringer rot
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1818

Meadracing
07-19-2010, 09:20 PM
Trash under floor
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1819



http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1817

bkhallpass
07-20-2010, 12:44 AM
I don't know whether the secondaries are supposed to be straight up vertical or not.

Question: did you run a level on the floor before you ripped them out. From your photos it appears that there may have been a slight slope in the floor so that water would drain off the floor and into the bildge. I know several guys on several brands that have done this on a rebuild. If the stringers have been done before it is possible that the rebuilder canted the secondaries a bit to accomodate the sloped floor. Just a guess/theory.

BKH

Meadracing
07-21-2010, 08:55 PM
Front board blocking front foam in Bow is out. Gas tank is out and everything is vacumed up. Need to start cutting open stringers amd clean out for my pourable material I will be making the stringers out of. What is the purpose of the side panel that comes down to the floor under the throttle lever. Has anyone cut this off?

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1849

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1850

Meadracing
07-22-2010, 12:21 PM
Took the gas tank to work today. There is alot of crap in there and it is leaking. Looks like I could use a new gas tank. Any recommendations?

Jorski
07-22-2010, 12:51 PM
What is the purpose of the side panel that comes down to the floor under the throttle lever.

My guess is that it is there to support the side deck as most operators lean on their elbow while working the throttle.

Meadracing
07-22-2010, 08:29 PM
Pass side stringer cut open and all wood removed, ready to pour stringer. Drivers side is going to be alot harder. Wood is not as rotten.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1854

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1855

hosofpayne
07-22-2010, 11:56 PM
I am the new guy what are you going to pour into it? I havent got that far with mine i have to get motor running to see what i have before removal. dont know if stringers are ok yet

Meadracing
07-23-2010, 07:43 AM
I'm using a product called Nidbond Pourable Transom Coumpound.

bkhallpass
07-24-2010, 02:13 PM
My guess is that it is there to support the side deck as most operators lean on their elbow while working the throttle.

I think this is a good guess. It is what I would guess as well. Help reduce gunnel vibration and twisting. On the port side of the boat, the seat assembly should provide similar support. BKH

Meadracing
08-03-2010, 08:00 AM
Both main stringers are cleaned out. Need to patch some holes and order pourable compound. I'll post pictures soon.

RyanC***
08-05-2010, 02:28 AM
Can't wait to see the new stringers. How much compound do you think it will take?

Meadracing
08-05-2010, 03:04 PM
Not 100% sure on the exact amount but were guesing around 7 gallons per main stringer. I order 3 pales os Nida Bond PTC. 1 pale = 5gals.

joecarew3
08-05-2010, 03:31 PM
how much was this compound and what are the benefits for it, i havent replaced any stringers but have seen some done on here. I was just wondering what made you opt for this option.

Meadracing
08-06-2010, 11:27 AM
Joe, the compound is about $135.00 and pale. The pale is 5 gallons and I ordered three pales. Due to the condition of the original stringers being so bad (basically dust) I would not be able to make a template for new ones. I researched this method and figured it would be easier and if all goes well the stringers will never rot and never have to be replaced agian. Everything is on order just waiting for it all. I have a few little holes to fill and need to sand and clean out the stringer channels.

All wood out
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1898

Meadracing
08-16-2010, 10:16 PM
I poured the first bucket into the stringer tonight. Its about 75% full.

Nida Bond
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1962

Hardener
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1963

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1964

Meadracing
08-16-2010, 10:17 PM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1965

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1966

1redTA
08-17-2010, 10:29 AM
That looks like a nice alternative. How do you plan to fasten the engine and tranny mounts to the stringers?

Meadracing
08-17-2010, 11:54 AM
Lag Bolts just like before, maybe I'll use some bolts and go all the way through the stringer.

O2BESOHUGE
08-17-2010, 12:36 PM
Why Not Just "sandwich" The Existing Stringers, BolT Through Them And Then Add New Fiberglass? That Would Be Much Stronger To Me

Just Curious! Good Luck With The Project!

Meadracing
08-21-2010, 05:59 PM
Main stringers are done being poured. Now I need to glass over the mains and cut the outter stringer tops off and see how bad they are and decide what I want to do with those.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1986

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1987

americanskierJim
08-25-2010, 09:30 PM
Hello Mead,

WOW the stringers look great. I would like to know how they hold up. It looks like it might be alot better than wood. Keep up the great work.

Meadracing
08-31-2010, 12:37 PM
Secondary stringers are poured, just need to put fiberglass over the tops. Also need to cut out pylon base and make a new on and glass it in. Then I can start putting the floors back in and paint the bildge. Slowly but surely.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=2061

More pics to come

Meadracing
09-07-2010, 10:34 AM
Stringers are done finally.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2195

jconover
09-07-2010, 11:56 AM
Very nice work. Thanks for the ongoing digest!

Bellinghamster
09-08-2010, 01:16 AM
Rather than glassing a new pylon base back in, the alignment of mine allowed me to make a bottom "cup" welded to a plate that is fastened down to the front skeg bolt set. It's much more secure than relying on a secondary resin bond, and also allows it to be removed again if it ever rusts (unlikely since it's now got drain holes and several coats of paint). Something you might consider.

thatsmrmastercraft
09-08-2010, 01:46 AM
That is really a clean looking job.

Meadracing
09-08-2010, 10:35 AM
Actually we have ground down the rusted cup part to the base plate. The idea now is to weld a new cup onto the plate without removing any glass. It should be alittle easier and allow for the cup to be lined up properly because we have the pylon bracket above the cup already bolted in place, so we will cup a cup to size and slide the pylon in. Then tack weld the cup in place, then remove the pylon and weld alittle more. This should provide us with no alignment problems and no much glass work.

Meadracing
09-12-2010, 10:21 PM
Glassed the front firewall panel in. Started fitting the floors. Need to seal them with resin and glass before installing. How are the floors attached to the main stringers?

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2205

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2206

Meadracing
09-15-2010, 07:51 AM
Glassing in the floor.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2210

herlev
09-17-2010, 09:25 AM
Bellinghamster,
Your boat looks very nice. How did you prep the floor and what paint did you use.

Meadracing
09-17-2010, 10:19 AM
I believe Belling used some kind of Gelcoat to paint his floor. I'm sure he chime in soon.

Bellinghamster
09-20-2010, 09:27 AM
I ground smooth and gelcoated everything under the floor (hull and stringers). The floor plywood panels were all fiberglassed (1.5oz chopped strand mat and vinylester resin) on the bottom and edges before installing, then screwed down to the stringers (plus adhesive sealant on top of the stringers), then glassed the top of the floor including to the hull and stringers, then gelcoated the floor.

Gelcoat needs to have finishing wax added if you're applying it like this otherwise it won't harden where exposed to air.

It turned out well. Easy to clean, and looks great three seasons later.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=23492 tells the whole story.

Meadracing
09-28-2010, 07:43 AM
Fitting the drivers side of floor.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2241

Meadracing
09-29-2010, 07:43 AM
What is everyones thoughts on getting rid of this brace. Is there really a purpose for it? The reason I ask is because it pushes the side of the floor down so instead of slating toward the bildge, the floor is raised in the middle slanting toward the side and the bildge.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2242

Bruce Carr
09-29-2010, 10:24 AM
The purpose of this brace is to stabilize /stiffen the gunnel. The gunnel will deflect up and down somewhat without it. The passenger seat structure on the opposide side of the boat performs the same stabilizing function for the port gunnel. If the brace is too long, forcing the deck down too far, you could cut the brace and shorten it up to suit and then re-splice it back together with glass fabric and resin.

Cloaked
09-29-2010, 06:46 PM
The purpose of this brace is to stabilize /stiffen the gunnel. The gunnel will deflect up and down somewhat without it. The passenger seat structure on the opposide side of the boat performs the same stabilizing function for the port gunnel. If the brace is too long, forcing the deck down too far, you could cut the brace and shorten it up to suit and then re-splice it back together with glass fabric and resin.Correct....

Mead, don't be choppin' on the bote.... :D

1redTA
09-29-2010, 06:56 PM
that brace was a pain in the a$$ when I redid the front half off the floor in my boat. I used a scissor jack with a long piece of 4x4(to distribute the load) and lifted the gunnel off the floor to have a nice fit with the floor

Meadracing
10-11-2010, 08:37 AM
Floors all glassed in. Need to fiberglass brace back in and weld in pylon base then i can paint bildge and drop motor and tranny back in.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2292

03geetee
10-11-2010, 09:26 AM
Nice work man, loving the pictures!

JTR

Meadracing
10-13-2010, 11:16 PM
Welded the pylon base in today. Need to clean up the glass around it and will start Bildgecoat tomarrow.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2293

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2294

thatsmrmastercraft
10-14-2010, 10:11 AM
Welded the pylon base in today. Need to clean up the glass around it and will start Bildgecoat tomarrow.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2293

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2294

That looks great. :cool:

Meadracing
10-18-2010, 08:27 AM
Engine is back in. Need to finish painting bildge.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2311

Meadracing
10-19-2010, 03:14 PM
Ordered POR 15 Gas tank sealer kit today. I figured it is worth a shot and read good reviews on the product. RDS alluminum wanted 300.00 plus shipping, which isn't a bad price but saving 230.00 with the sealer is a much better option. I will try to post some better pictures tonight.

hosofpayne
10-24-2010, 08:55 PM
how difficult was it to get motor realigned? how did you move to adjust

Meadracing
10-25-2010, 01:51 PM
It took longer to align the motor than actutally mounting the motor. Our only saving grace was that I tryed to keep the stringers at the level they were at before and I still had the holes in the stringers for the tranny mounts. The adjusting parts on the mounts were all frozen and took a torch took break them loose. Its not 100% dead on but it is close. I would not want to do that part of the job again. What a pain.

1redTA
10-25-2010, 07:09 PM
how close did you get the alignment? I ask because I had to have two hands pulling on the prop to turn the prop before. Afterwards I was able to use one hand to spin the prop and it felt good. I got it even except for twentythousandths on the lower passenger side

Meadracing
10-26-2010, 08:04 AM
1Red, mine is probably just like yours. You can spin it with 1 hand but it is probably out twentythousandths on the passenger bottom I believe.

hosofpayne
10-26-2010, 01:32 PM
how did you slide front of motor or did you have to ....and what is acceptable for tollerance ........Also i know its down the road a bit but what is your plan for the seams on carpet at the removable parts of floor ? Does the carpet stop at edge or take it over lip on floor and removable board Was there a metal edge screwed in at seam? I'm assuming you are going to make bolth panels removable( front and back of engine cover)

Meadracing
10-26-2010, 04:15 PM
I didnt have to move the front of the motor except for up and down. I'm not sure what the tollerances are susposed to be. The edges of the carpet seams have a metal strip covering them. yes they will be removable.

thatsmrmastercraft
10-26-2010, 04:19 PM
I didnt have to move the front of the motor except for up and down. I'm not sure what the tollerances are susposed to be. The edges of the carpet seams have a metal strip covering them. yes they will be removable.

Could you post a pic of the Metal strip. My boat came with the floor replaced and new carpeting, minus the strips. Thinking I would like to find something to match and have that in the boat hoping to keep as original looking as possible.

Slinkyredfoot
10-26-2010, 08:37 PM
Could you post a pic of the Metal strip. My boat came with the floor replaced and new carpeting, minus the strips. Thinking I would like to find something to match and have that in the boat hoping to keep as original looking as possible.

I think the metal strips that were referred to earlier is an aluminum wrap that finishes the plywood floor and on mine there is one at the front of the motor on the straight cut of the floor and one on the removeable center access behind the motor, none on the side as the floor cuts of the floor are irregular, rivited into place, hope this is what you are talking about.

One last thing, if anyone needs factory specs on and instructions for engine mounting and alignmet adjustments with pictures let me know, I have a wonderful 351PC original manual that devotes an entire page to this subject. The max you want to go on the trunions is an 1 3/4", and this is after prop shaft and transmission mating flange are adjusted and aligned to .003". Make sure this is done right.

Cloaked
10-26-2010, 09:07 PM
One last thing, if anyone needs factory specs on and instructions for engine mounting and alignmet adjustments with pictures let me know, I have a wonderful 351PC original manual that devotes an entire page to this subject. The max you want to go on the trunions is an 1 3/4", and this is after prop shaft and transmission mating flange are adjusted and aligned to .003". Make sure this is done right.
Please and thank you.

Shall I PM an e-mail or can you post it here as a PDF attachment?

rjracin240
10-26-2010, 10:17 PM
Need the 411 on this as well please, I have a steady stream coming from around my front packing (Picture in my boat album on my profile) and a rotted out rubber piece behind it. Might as well check shaft alignment while working on this.

Thanks for the help.

One last thing, if anyone needs factory specs on and instructions for engine mounting and alignmet adjustments with pictures let me know, I have a wonderful 351PC original manual that devotes an entire page to this subject. The max you want to go on the trunions is an 1 3/4", and this is after prop shaft and transmission mating flange are adjusted and aligned to .003". Make sure this is done right.[/QUOTE]

Slinkyredfoot
10-27-2010, 06:44 AM
PM me fax numbers and I will send.

SDProstar
10-27-2010, 12:58 PM
Please and thank you.

Shall I PM an e-mail or can you post it here as a PDF attachment?

Wow...I could sure use that info, too. I'm dropping my new engine in next month and I'm not sure how I'm supposed to make the adjustments. Thanks

cbryan70
10-27-2010, 01:47 PM
here is the pdf

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a76/cbryan70/CCF10272010_00000.jpg couldnt get it to upload as a pdf so had to make it a picture

hosofpayne
10-27-2010, 02:05 PM
Noticed in last pic there is a cover that goes over the reg.and sol. would anyone know where i might find one of those

Meadracing
11-07-2010, 10:39 AM
Got the motor started Sat. at work and she sounded pretty good. Carburator was leaking everywhere so I ordered a rebuild kit from skidim. Front floor piece and pylon is in. Gas tank is mounted, just waiting on sender and then I will run the fuel line. Is the propshaft suposed to turn alittle with the engine running when it is not in gear? I'm not talking fast just a very slow roll. I dont know if this is correct since there is no water putting resistance on the prop. pics.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2372

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2373

Meadracing
11-07-2010, 10:47 AM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2374

Meadracing
11-07-2010, 11:12 AM
Dose anyone know the correct impeller kit to use for a sherwood raw water pump? My impeller was siezed to the housing causing the pump to lock up.

Cloaked
11-07-2010, 12:18 PM
Dose anyone know the correct impeller kit to use for a sherwood raw water pump? My impeller was siezed to the housing causing the pump to lock up.For the Ford 351 PCM, http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RP061015

http://skidim.com/searchprods.asp?searchstring=impeller&pagenumber=2&sort_on=&sort_by=

.
I would also recommend ordering a wear plate for good measures.

.

TX.X-30 fan
11-07-2010, 12:22 PM
http://shop.lego.com/Default.aspx?CMP=KAC-SAHGOOGLEUS&HQS=legos



62814
62814
62814
62814

scott023
11-07-2010, 10:01 PM
http://shop.lego.com/Default.aspx?CMP=KAC-SAHGOOGLEUS&HQS=legos



62814
62814
62814
62814

What's the significance of lego here TX?

Meadracing
11-09-2010, 10:52 AM
Old Impeller

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2388

1redTA
11-09-2010, 01:47 PM
Old Impeller

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2388



"tis but a flesh wound"

Meadracing
12-05-2010, 05:02 PM
Ran the motor for about 15 minutes on fake lake. A couple small leaks to fix but it ran great.

03geetee
12-05-2010, 08:03 PM
Ran the motor for about 15 minutes on fake lake. A couple small leaks to fix but it ran great.

Sick!

I am going through withdrawl right now, I wish I was on the lake. I have so much to do before its ready for 11' but have no moneys.

I can haz loan?

LOL!

JTR

Meadracing
12-06-2010, 10:13 AM
Has anyone ever taken apart the gauges in their boats. My fuel and temp gauges seem to not be working and are probably stuck. Any tips? My new plan is to not worry about the outside of the boat and get the inside done so I can get it on the water and see how she dose before I shine up the outside.

thatsmrmastercraft
12-06-2010, 11:26 AM
I have only taken apart my speedometers. Not sure if the other gauges will come apart.

Good plan on working on the mechanical issues first, the taking care of the pretty stuff. That is what I did and it got me on the water quicker - but not as fast as I wanted to.

SDProstar
12-06-2010, 05:05 PM
[QUOTE=Meadracing;717846]Got the motor started Sat. at work and she sounded pretty good. Carburator was leaking everywhere so I ordered a rebuild kit from skidim. Front floor piece and pylon is in. Gas tank is mounted, just waiting on sender and then I will run the fuel line. Is the propshaft suposed to turn alittle with the engine running when it is not in gear? I'm not talking fast just a very slow roll. I dont know if this is correct since there is no water putting resistance on the prop. pics.


Was anyone able to answer your prop shaft spinning question? I'd like to know, too, because mine spins slightly in neutral.

Cloaked
12-06-2010, 10:10 PM
[quote=Meadracing;717846]Got the motor started Sat. at work and she sounded pretty good. Carburator was leaking everywhere so I ordered a rebuild kit from skidim. Front floor piece and pylon is in. Gas tank is mounted, just waiting on sender and then I will run the fuel line. Is the propshaft suposed to turn alittle with the engine running when it is not in gear? I'm not talking fast just a very slow roll. I dont know if this is correct since there is no water putting resistance on the prop. pics.


Was anyone able to answer your prop shaft spinning question? I'd like to know, too, because mine spins slightly in neutral.Yes. They will move some.

Meadracing
12-30-2010, 11:07 AM
Where can I get the access panel that goes in the rear floor for access the packing nut/flange? I will be posting pictures soon. Been very busy with the holidays.

Cloaked
12-30-2010, 07:01 PM
Where can I get the access panel that goes in the rear floor for access the packing nut/flange? I will be posting pictures soon. Been very busy with the holidays.
I am not sure there is an OEM panel, per se. You can make one from several different methods. I just pull the rear floor section if I need access. Tighten and water test prior to installing the rear floor section or the engine cover. After that, access needs should be minimal. It's only 4 screws for removal if you need to get in there.

Personally, I'd not necessarily want another access port in the floor there, as it is a high-volume toe-stumper traffic area. The engine cover hinges are more than I care to deal with. If your hinges have cotter keys for keepers, change hinges or expect a few sliced toes with blood.

thatsmrmastercraft
12-30-2010, 11:11 PM
Mead, you looking for a deck hatch like this?

http://greatlakesskipper.com/product/22_29-hatches-port-windows-inspector-plates-and-hatches/6987-jim-black-and-associates-jim-black-8-inch-amh-white-boat-deck-access-plate.html

Meadracing
01-05-2011, 09:55 PM
Thanks Mr. . Can someone post a picture of the drivers seat without the cover on it. All I have is the fiberglass shell and the seat tracks. Not sure if I have to put a piece of wood on top of the fiberglass and mount the tracks or what. Also the passenger seat has no wood either,just the fiberglass L base. Any suggestions or recommendations? I will post pictures tomarrow.

Slinkyredfoot
01-06-2011, 10:35 AM
Thanks Mr. . Can someone post a picture of the drivers seat without the cover on it. All I have is the fiberglass shell and the seat tracks. Not sure if I have to put a piece of wood on top of the fiberglass and mount the tracks or what. Also the passenger seat has no wood either,just the fiberglass L base. Any suggestions or recommendations? I will post pictures tomarrow.

Not sure if mine is the same, but when you post pics I can tell. My drivers seat consists of the fiberglass base and 4 aluminum tracks, 2 bolt to the base and two bolt to the plywood base on the bottom of the seat. Not sure what your question is regarding the L shaped passenger seat?

Meadracing
01-06-2011, 07:14 PM
Ok, I sandwiched the fiberglass bucket inbetween wood and mounted the rails, I hope this is right. Here some long overdue pics. Waiting on carpet and seats to get recovered.

Seat
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2505

Seat Base
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2506

Tank cover, rear floor piece, Fake lake
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2507

Dash waiting to be painted
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2508

03geetee
01-06-2011, 08:30 PM
Great work man looking good stay with it!

JTR

Table Rocker
01-06-2011, 08:39 PM
Seat Base
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2506
How do you get the seat riser off the floor? I figured it was fiberglassed in. I have all the screws out of the perimeter trim ring, does it just pop up? A little rubber hammer persuasion maybe? I need to repair one of the seat mount screw holes in mine.

My rails are different from yours, but on mine the back two screws on the seat brackets/sliders are almost impossible to get to with a screwdriver even with the seat all the way forward. I plan on drilling a 1/2" hole in the upper slide so I can access the screws by pulling out the seat cushion with the seat all the way back. There might be a way to remove the stop so the seat will slide off the rails to the back, I will have to look into that as well and save the drilling.

03geetee
01-07-2011, 03:45 PM
Mead,

I also need to replace my old fiberglass cover for the packing/shaft area just behind the motorbox and plan to do so with some plywood. What type of paint or sealant is that white stuff you are using on the floor? I want to seal mine up good and keep it from warping in the future before I get her to the interior place for new carpet and vinyl.

Thanks for any help!

JTR

Meadracing
01-08-2011, 08:52 AM
I put fiberglass resin over the boars on top and bottom (2 coats). Then paint with Bildge coat...The seat riser sould pop right up. mine was only screwed to the floor. The actual seat should slide off the base without having to take any screws out.

03geetee
01-08-2011, 10:57 AM
Thanks bro!

JTR

Table Rocker
01-08-2011, 11:01 AM
I put fiberglass resin over the boars on top and bottom (2 coats). Then paint with Bildge coat...The seat riser sould pop right up. mine was only screwed to the floor. The actual seat should slide off the base without having to take any screws out.I will check it out, thanks.

Meadracing
01-10-2011, 08:37 AM
I need dark brown carpet. anyone know where I can get some?

03geetee
01-10-2011, 10:25 AM
Overtons, or any other interior supply shop will have many different types of carpet to use in a marine application. Also sometimes Lowes/Menards/Home Depot have indoor outdoor carpet that can be used if you look you can find it.

I would go with a true Marine setup though after all the work you did.

JTR

thatsmrmastercraft
01-10-2011, 11:11 AM
I need dark brown carpet. anyone know where I can get some?

Go to a real carpet store. They will have a sample book or two that you can look through and take home to match up. For the same price as Menards, you will get much higher quality carpet.

Meadracing
01-13-2011, 07:49 AM
Dash painted.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2519

Meadracing
01-17-2011, 07:39 AM
Started laying carpet.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2557

jakethebt
01-17-2011, 09:50 AM
Carpet looks great. I also like the extension cord reel.

Is that blue painters tape on the exhaust hose near the manifold on one side?

Meadracing
01-17-2011, 11:16 AM
Yes, the carpet was getting snaged on the hose clamp.

1redTA
01-17-2011, 02:18 PM
Looks great, although I am wondering why you didn't lay the carpet with one piece?

03geetee
01-17-2011, 03:34 PM
How would he take each floor section out if he needed to repair something if the carpet was all one piece?

JTR

thatsmrmastercraft
01-17-2011, 04:33 PM
My '77 came with each floor panel wrapped in carpet so pulling floor panels is as simple as grabbing the cordless and taking 5 minutes. Very nice set-up for a work in progress.

03geetee
01-17-2011, 04:43 PM
My '77 came with each floor panel wrapped in carpet so pulling floor panels is as simple as grabbing the cordless and taking 5 minutes. Very nice set-up for a work in progress.

:)

Looking good mead keep it up. I am almost ready for recarpet, just have to paint the floor and finish one wood piece first.

JTR

Meadracing
01-24-2011, 02:39 PM
Boat will probably be going up for sale soon. I'll get some updated pics tonight.

psychobilly
01-24-2011, 05:57 PM
Why are you selling it after putting at that TLC into her? Are you in a bind for cash or was this your plan all along?

Meadracing
01-24-2011, 07:59 PM
I'm just ready to move on to another project. Heres some pics.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2633

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2634

Meadracing
01-27-2011, 07:48 AM
Got rear floor and access port done.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2649

Meadracing
01-28-2011, 07:38 AM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=2650

thatsmrmastercraft
01-28-2011, 10:52 AM
Looks 100% improved with the new carpet down. :cool:

03geetee
01-28-2011, 07:48 PM
Looks great man keep it up!

JTR

JDKline
01-28-2011, 07:54 PM
The project looks awesome.....gotta love working on boats

Meadracing
01-28-2011, 09:52 PM
Boat has new owner.

Meadracing
01-29-2011, 04:20 PM
Boat has found a new owner.

psychobilly
01-29-2011, 05:04 PM
That price sounds about right, but man, you sure have put a lot of heart in to this... I hate to see ya get rid of it...

Will you get your money back that you've put into it???

S&S
02-24-2011, 11:41 PM
Just got 81 S&S from Meadracing and getting the boat ready for paint.

S&S
02-24-2011, 11:51 PM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=64632&stc=1&d=1298605823

rjracin240
02-25-2011, 12:22 AM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=64632&stc=1&d=1298605823

Congrats on the boat, great site here with lots of help available

americanskierJim
02-25-2011, 10:46 AM
S&S welcome to TT. Nice boat you have there. Have any pics of the inside of the boat ?

Sorry just looked and it is MEADRACING, boat you bought it.

vwtype53
03-23-2011, 11:39 PM
I don't know if Meadracing is still watching this thread... but I had another question about the Nidabond product that was used filling in the stringers. He said that he purchased (3) 5-gallon pales of the product and it looked like one 5-gallon pale filled 75% of one of the main stringers. So, did you end up using all 3 pales (15 total gallons) of the compound? Seems like that is what it would take... but just wanted to confirm.

I am going to be rebuilding the stringers on my '81 here someday soon, so I was hoping to hear more feedback on this Nidabond fill method versus the more traditional stringer repair method of bedding in new wooden stringers with fresh fiberglass?? Any opinions? It sure seems that this fill method has some advantages... possibly stronger than replacement wood... and most definitely rot-proof. Any real disadvantages?

Thanks for the thoughts.