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View Full Version : Need help: How to remove rudder in '79 Skier to replace packing


Sidewinder
05-24-2010, 05:58 PM
Hello,

I'm trying to replace the rudder packing in my '79 Skier, but I can't figure out how to remove the rudder arm from the rudder shaft. Is there a trick?

I have the bolt / nut and cotter pin and steering cable bolt on the arm removed, but it's still tight. It looks like it may be keyed. I'm guessing that I'll need some type of puller, correct?

Is there something I'm missing?

drylandfish
05-24-2010, 06:06 PM
It is keyed. Put a jack under your rudder, so that it doesn't just drop and hit the ground once the arm is freed.

Sidewinder
05-24-2010, 06:30 PM
Hey Drylandfish,

Thanks for the info - good advice with the jacket.

How do I remove the key? Tap on the underside of the arm? Attempt to wiggle it? Use a puller?

Thanks.

TMCNo1
05-24-2010, 06:34 PM
Hello,

I'm trying to replace the rudder packing in my '79 Skier, but I can't figure out how to remove the rudder arm from the rudder shaft. Is there a trick?

I have the bolt / nut and cotter pin and steering cable bolt on the arm removed, but it's still tight. It looks like it may be keyed. I'm guessing that I'll need some type of puller, correct?

Is there something I'm missing?
First, just try loosening the jamb nut and tightening the packing nut like you would on a shaft log/stuffing box to decrease the leaking.
If it still leaks, take the steering cable loose from the tiller arm, remove the cotter pin, loosen the pinch bolt on the tiller arm, the tiller arm gap may spring open or you may have to hit the tiller arm with a deadblow hammer to loosen it. With the jack under the rudder, under the boat to prevent the rudder from falling out, work loose and take off the tiller arm and there should be a key opposite of the gap in the tiller arm and bolt on the rudder shaft. You then can loosen the jamb nut, take off the packing nut and replace/add the packing, which can be the 3/16" size for the PowerSlot stuffing box/shaft log from what I have been told or you can use the big graphite faucet packing from a plumbing supply house. Put everything back in reverse order after tightening down the packing nut and jamb nut. You can them just adjust the jamb nut to keep the leaking in check, if you don't get it tight enough originally.

Sidewinder
05-27-2010, 06:59 PM
Hey Harold,

Good to hear from you. Haven't seen you on the board as much lately. Hopefully things are going as well as can be for you and you're getting the treatment / medical assistance you require. My thoughts are with you.

Thanks for the info, you're always a great source of advice - I'll try it this week-end and see what happens. I removed everything and the tiller arm gap didn't spring open and I discovered that the pinch bolt was slightly bent. I'm not sure if the rudder had an impact with something or it's just 30 yrs of use. The whole assembly has a surprising amount of play in it, so that could have caused it too.

dukemastercraft
12-31-2011, 11:30 PM
First, just try loosening the jamb nut and tightening the packing nut like you would on a shaft log/stuffing box to decrease the leaking.
If it still leaks, take the steering cable loose from the tiller arm, remove the cotter pin, loosen the pinch bolt on the tiller arm, the tiller arm gap may spring open or you may have to hit the tiller arm with a deadblow hammer to loosen it. With the jack under the rudder, under the boat to prevent the rudder from falling out, work loose and take off the tiller arm and there should be a key opposite of the gap in the tiller arm and bolt on the rudder shaft. You then can loosen the jamb nut, take off the packing nut and replace/add the packing, which can be the 3/16" size for the PowerSlot stuffing box/shaft log from what I have been told or you can use the big graphite faucet packing from a plumbing supply house. Put everything back in reverse order after tightening down the packing nut and jamb nut. You can them just adjust the jamb nut to keep the leaking in check, if you don't get it tight enough originally.
What solution worked? I am attempting the same repair right now and this is the only post I have seen about my 1980 S & S.

Cloaked
12-31-2011, 11:40 PM
What solution worked? I am attempting the same repair right now and this is the only post I have seen about my 1980 S & S.
The post that you quoted is over a year old and since then, the poster has gone underground to a grey forum... He has not been see or heard of since...

I think what the poster was saying is to try the first, tighten to see if it stops, and if not, then pull and replace the packing.

.

ahhudgins
01-01-2012, 09:24 AM
What solution worked? I am attempting the same repair right now and this is the only post I have seen about my 1980 S & S.

This is from my 95, but it's all the same. The bolt was threaded into the rudder arm so you must back the bolt out and not just remove the nut.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=36396&highlight=rudder

Cloaked
01-01-2012, 09:57 AM
Your pictures show there was nothing but an o-ring, correct? I presume that is the proper configuration. Good write-up. Thanks..
.

ahhudgins
01-01-2012, 02:49 PM
Your pictures show there was nothing but an o-ring, correct? I presume that is the proper configuration. Good write-up. Thanks..
.

I believe there were 2 o-rings, one at each end.

I put grease on the rudder shaft and in the bushing, assembled, and then put grease in the fitting until it came out the small hole under the boat.

I'm not sure if the older style packings have a grease fitting...that's what the packing is for?

Cloaked
01-01-2012, 04:41 PM
I believe there were 2 o-rings, one at each end.

I put grease on the rudder shaft and in the bushing, assembled, and then put grease in the fitting until it came out the small hole under the boat.

I'm not sure if the older style packings have a grease fitting...that's what the packing is for?
The older models do have a grease fitting.

dukemastercraft
01-01-2012, 10:37 PM
Mine has stuffing box for rudder. Here is picture. The thread made mention of 3/16" but measuring the inside of nut is 5/16" from rudder shaft hole to edge of nut? Should packing be as wide as space or the 3/16" which is supposed to be the same as prop stuffing nut? Help is greatly appreciated.:)

Cloaked
01-01-2012, 10:56 PM
Mine has stuffing box for rudder. Here is picture. The thread made mention of 3/16" but measuring the inside of nut is 5/16" from rudder shaft hole to edge of nut? Should packing be as wide as space or the 3/16" which is supposed to be the same as prop stuffing nut? Help is greatly appreciated.:)

take off the packing nut and replace/add the packing, which can be the 3/16" size for the PowerSlot stuffing box/shaft log from what I have been told or you can use the big graphite faucet packing from a plumbing supply house...

If I am reading this correctly, the 3/16" mentioned is the size of the packing diameter for the PS drive shaft stuffing box, which would be a 1-1/8" diameter shaft. There is also a 1/4" dia packing for the 1" dia drive shafts. What was also being pointed out was that plumber's packing could be used (apparently the same approximate size as the 3/16" packing) as an alternate material.

OK, that being said, I'd look at the rudder stuffing box and measure it and compare it to the drive shaft box, but more importantly to me, compare the shaft size diameter of the rudder and it should be 1" or 1-1/8" in diameter, which should be accommodated by the same size packing as compared to the drive shaft stuffing box / packing. Look at www.skidim.com (http://www.skidim.com) and search "rudder." There, compare the associated material and components with this talking point and I think you'll see that you need either a 1/4" packing if the rudder shaft is 1" dia, or 3/16" dia packing if the rudder shaft is 1/1/8" in diameter. All relative consideration to both shaft sizes and packing glands.

Best case is to call Vince or Richard at skidim and talk to them about this application. It should be straight forward enough.

Either way, I'd pack it with a graphite impregnated material and while you're ordering and have the floor up, order the same packing for your drive shaft packing gland and replace it also. Also a good time to consider a new steering cable. A new cable is like power steering on the older boats. Been all down that road too. Look for the length of the cable that may be stamped on the cable, whether you replace it now or use that info for later reference. You'll need one sooner or later. Should be a 16' length.

Reference in the other thread to tighten while in the water is good advice. Leave the floor up and tighten (both) the packing gland nuts until the drip is minimal. That's about the only way to get it just right. I use a pipe wrench and a large slip-joint type pliers (Channellock) to do the adjusting. That graphite can require a little persuation with a wrench when tightening.

Take that b1tch apart and look at it first hand. You're already there.. :D You're on the right track...

.

Scottman
05-22-2013, 11:04 PM
Any tricks or ideas on how to remove this pinch bolt (as it was called above)? My setup is exactly the same on my '78 as this picture below. I've removed the nut and pin and hit the bolt with two rounds of PB Blaster, but it won't budge whatsoever.

I'm afraid I'm going to round off the head if I pry too hard. I assume it's a lefty-loosey bolt. It also has no grease fitting.

Probably hasn't been removed since before I was born, if at all.