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View Full Version : 1981 Mastercraft Skier 19 Restoration


rmasterson
05-21-2010, 11:07 AM
Hello all. I am relatively new to this forum, but so far it has been great. I am also very new to the ski boat world. When I was a kid, my dad just pulled us behind his bass boat. :)

One of the bonuses I got when I got married was the Mastercraft. It is still one of my favorite looks in a ski boat so I have decided to restore it. I am sure I will need lots of advise going forward. I am going to post a few pictures for everyone to track my progress....

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1421

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1522

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1523

rmasterson
05-21-2010, 11:14 AM
I knew going into this project that the engine was siezed so of course, I pulled the engine and the transmission out first. Unfortunately, before I met my wife, she had some real "help" with the boat. They pulled the engine and when they couldn't figure out why it wouldn't rotate, they just sat it back down in the boat.... NOTHING reconnected or hooked up. the motor mounts and transmission mounts were just sitting on the stringers and no cables were attached. I have a lot of figuring out to do when i hook it back up.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1528

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1527

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1530

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1529

rmasterson
05-21-2010, 11:17 AM
My replacement long block just arrived from Rapido Marine and i am going to try to put it back together and set it in the boat this weekend.

I do have a question about the transmission... It says Velvet Drive 1.52:1. Is this a "Power Slot" transmission? And what does that mean anyway?

Thanks to anyone with an answer.

strad
05-21-2010, 11:20 AM
Welcome. You're a couple steps ahead of me -- you at least have a non-running boat! I love the S&S boats though -- I'll be watching you so that the learning curve won't be as steep when I get mine!

edit: Power Slot, from what I've learned here, means the hull is slotted to accommodate a larger prop. The 1.52:1 means the prop turns once for every 1.52 turns of the crank.

oxberger
05-21-2010, 11:21 AM
Cool, you're doing a thread for resto! You'll get plenty of info here to help you out. I sent you a pm on the ignition. Make sure to take plenty of picks while doing this. Good luck!

rmasterson
05-21-2010, 11:27 AM
I will take lots of pics and cronicle all my issues so maybe it will help someone else out. I have a lot of the "stuff" off the old engine and it is painted black. I'm going for the black / silver look on the engine. So far, it is looking good.

oxberger
05-21-2010, 11:50 AM
Glad you're sticking with the original paint on the engine. I think it was americanskierJim that was trying something different then went back to original. I think he even handpainted the manifolds to show off the Pleasurecraft and V8. Very sweet. I have a part at my house if you need it. Not sure what it's called, but its the metal piece that the water flows through. The alternator arm attaches to it.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-21-2010, 12:35 PM
Nice to see all the pictures. The boat appears to be in pretty good condition. Good luck with the engine and trans install. Just give a shout if you need any more pics.

Sodar
05-21-2010, 12:47 PM
Are you going to have the tranny rebuilt while you have it out of the boat?

americanskierJim
05-21-2010, 01:02 PM
Great pics of the boat the hull looks to be in great shape. I cant wait to see the new motor sitting in the hull. I am here if you need any help.

rmasterson
05-21-2010, 02:09 PM
Thanks to all for the encouraging words. The hull seems to be in exceptional shape. It looks like i will just need to replace the carpet.

As for the transmission, i don't have any plans to rebuild it at this time, but i will if it needs it.

Thanks for the offer on the upper thermostat housing, but mine is in pretty good shape.

How can i tell if the trans is a "power slot"?

drylandfish
05-21-2010, 02:16 PM
The Velvet Drive 1.52:1 is the powerslot transmission. Stock prop should be 14x18 LH.

rmasterson
05-21-2010, 02:30 PM
Thank you. At this point, it was just a curiousity.

americanskierJim
05-21-2010, 03:11 PM
The Velvet Drive 1.52:1 is the powerslot transmission. Stock prop should be 14x18 LH.


Drylandfish, Is right that is what I have in my boat and it is a powerslot trans.

rmasterson
05-22-2010, 07:29 AM
Old engine is stripped down.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1540

New engine from Rapido Marine arrived and is on the crate.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1541

The first step in the build up has begun. The new engine is on the stand.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1542

More to come today as i make progress.

:D

CantRepeat
05-22-2010, 07:50 AM
What if anything are you going to do with the old motor. I just wondering what was keeping it from turning over. Maybe pop a couple of rod caps off and look at the crank and bearings for damage.

rmasterson
05-22-2010, 08:16 AM
I don't have any plans for it right now, but my father-in-law had a mechanic look at it and said one of the pistons was stuck in the cylinder. I think it is number 3.

rmasterson
05-22-2010, 08:20 AM
I guess in a rebuild, everyone is wanting to have a little good news. Looks like someone had already converted this over to a new type of electronic ignition. This one was a Mallory Unilite. Is this a good one?

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1543

rmasterson
05-22-2010, 08:21 AM
Looks much better with most of the rust and oxidation removed.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1544

CantRepeat
05-22-2010, 08:47 AM
I guess in a rebuild, everyone is wanting to have a little good news. Looks like someone had already converted this over to a new type of electronic ignition. This one was a Mallory Unilite. Is this a good one?

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1543


Be very careful with that uni-light. If the ballast resistor goes bad you'll burn that light up pretty fast.

ski_king
05-22-2010, 09:03 AM
Nice boat, great project!

I will mention a couple of things thatyou probobly already know.....

1: As Sodar mentioned, it may be a good idea to rebuild the transmission or at least give it a good checkout since it is already out.

2: Check out the floor and stringers now. I would hate to see you put it all back together just to tear it apart again to work on floor and stringers.

Wow, boat came with the wife! That is a good deal, at least it looks like a good deal. I wonder which one will give you less problems over the long haul!

chad mitch
05-22-2010, 11:06 AM
Cool boat, my dad bought our first mastercraft in 1982,blue on blue s&s 351 ford powerslot.I was 10 years old ,it would rip your arms off.Cool trick for geeting easy entry under the bow.Jig saw a rectangle opening behind the observers seat.Then split the back rest part of the seat in two,meaning the port side one will be permanent,and the bow facing one will flip up for storage.We used a nice plastic on the back and then attached a piano hinge to it and the dash,worked killer.I also cut in a covered glove box and put the stereo in it. Good luck hpe that helps.

rmasterson
05-22-2010, 02:26 PM
Everything removed down to the carpet

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1545

rmasterson
05-22-2010, 02:29 PM
Manifolds painted with EXTRA high temp flat black paint. Notice these are aftermarket manifolds. One of my original manifolds failed and i believe that is what caused my engine failure. I wasn't taking a chance with the other.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1546

The devil is in the details. All engine bolts are cleaned and repainted.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1549

New Engine gets a coat of gloss black engine paint.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1547

rmasterson
05-22-2010, 02:32 PM
This is an easy job. It only takes a few minutes.

First, thoroughly clean the raw water pump.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1548

Insert new impeller and o-ring.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1550

Put housing back together with gasket.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1551

rmasterson
05-22-2010, 02:35 PM
This is what NOT to do. Someone had put an automotive water pump on this engine. The corrosion was terrible. Raw water has no corrosion protection and will attack the impeller of your pump.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1554

New marine water pump. Notice the brass impeller.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1553

Front view of new marine water pump.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1552

thatsmrmastercraft
05-22-2010, 05:30 PM
Looking great so far Ron.

rmasterson
05-22-2010, 06:24 PM
OK....

My first couple of real problems... Any help is appreciated.

First, the stringer where the port side motor mount is seems to be stripped out. Not good. There is no other indication that the stringer is bad except for that. As far as i know, when the engine was taken out four years ago, they may have just ripped it out. What are the fixes out there that you guys have used.

Second is the electrical. When i took the panel apart where the breaker and the starter solenoid are mounted, the square metal electrical thing looks really bad. What is it and what does it do? Second, the ballast resistor has been bypassed. I assume it was done when the mallory ignition was put in. BUT in a previous post, someone said to make sure it is working well or it might burn up my ignition. Does anyone else have experience with running the mallory unilite ignition with the ballast resistor bypassed?

HELP!

TMCNo1
05-22-2010, 07:24 PM
OK....

My first couple of real problems... Any help is appreciated.

First, the stringer where the port side motor mount is seems to be stripped out. Not good. There is no other indication that the stringer is bad except for that. As far as i know, when the engine was taken out four years ago, they may have just ripped it out. What are the fixes out there that you guys have used.

Second is the electrical. When i took the panel apart where the breaker and the starter solenoid are mounted, the square metal electrical thing looks really bad. What is it and what does it do? Second, the ballast resistor has been bypassed. I assume it was done when the mallory ignition was put in. BUT in a previous post, someone said to make sure it is working well or it might burn up my ignition. Does anyone else have experience with running the mallory unilite ignition with the ballast resistor bypassed?

HELP!


The distributor may have a EI breakerless ignition module in it and some kits and distributors require bypassng the ballast resistor. Take the cap off and see if it has points/condenser, if not, that's the reason.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-22-2010, 08:11 PM
Look here for your Mallory wiring diagrams. http://www.malloryperformance.com

rmasterson
05-23-2010, 08:01 AM
I figured out what the "box" was that looked bad. It is the voltage regulator. It looks like it has had a plastic or wax-like backing that has been melted off at some point. Does anyone know how i can check to see if it is good?

Second, the ballast resistor has definitely been bypassed. The Mallory Unilite breakerless ignition that has been installed has a part number that i cannot find on the Mallory Website. However, the one i did find that would be used in my application say to MAKE SURE the ballast resistor is in place. Does anyone have experience with a Mallory Conversion Kit that doesn't require a ballast resistor? And what is the down side to just wiring it back in? Lastly, what is the resistance supposed to be on the resistor??

Sorry for all the questions, but i am desperately trying to get this boat back together.

Thanks ALL.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-23-2010, 09:33 AM
Sounds like the voltage regulator needs to be replaced. What you are seeing is melted insulation.

rmasterson
05-23-2010, 07:17 PM
Timing Chain Installed

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1561

Oil pump and oil pan gasket installed. DON'T do what i did at first. I started to put the oil pan on without the oil pump installed. Total brain fart. I would have been so mad if I had of got the oil pan all bolted down and then figured out that the oil pump was still on the bench..... :o

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1562

Oil pan, oil filter, and dipstick installed.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1563

rmasterson
05-23-2010, 07:24 PM
Here is a pic of me priming the oil pump. Luckily for me, my local Autozone had one for rental. No need to buy... it was free if i return it undamaged.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1564

Make sure to see the oil coming onto all the rocker arms. Take it easy on the drill.... it will get hot pretty quick once the oil pump starts to pick up oil. AND, oh by the way, if you forget to install the oil pressure sensor, when you prime the oil pump, it will coat the wall next to your engine.... not that i would know or anything. What a mess to clean up... :o :o

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1565

rmasterson
05-23-2010, 07:28 PM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1566

:D

rmasterson
05-23-2010, 07:30 PM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1567

thatsmrmastercraft
05-23-2010, 08:42 PM
Great progress this weekend Ron.

americanskierJim
05-23-2010, 11:00 PM
Glad to see the motor comming together it looks great. I see you primed your motor out of the boat. I did mine in the boat and guess what happend. I forgot to put on the oil filter and filled the hull with oil. That wasn't a fun job to clean up. I never said anything in my post by here I can spill the beans lol. Keep up the good work.

glassmaster
05-23-2010, 11:45 PM
I figured out what the "box" was that looked bad. It is the voltage regulator. It looks like it has had a plastic or wax-like backing that has been melted off at some point. Does anyone know how i can check to see if it is good?

Second, the ballast resistor has definitely been bypassed. The Mallory Unilite breakerless ignition that has been installed has a part number that i cannot find on the Mallory Website. However, the one i did find that would be used in my application say to MAKE SURE the ballast resistor is in place. Does anyone have experience with a Mallory Conversion Kit that doesn't require a ballast resistor? And what is the down side to just wiring it back in? Lastly, what is the resistance supposed to be on the resistor??

Sorry for all the questions, but i am desperately trying to get this boat back together.

Thanks ALL.

I installed a Mallory conversion kit in my distributor and it specifically said to use the ballast resistor. On mine it said that you do not want to run a continuous 12v directly to the distributor/coil and run it through the resistor first because it would shorten the life of the unit.
So I ran the (key on) continuous 12v to one side of the resistor and a wire from the other side of the resistor to the + on the coil and the starter wire (ignition) momentary12v to the + on the coil and it works like a champ. Sure beats dealing with points. I'll try to post a pic tomorrow if you would like.
Nice project, I'm sure you will love it when your done. So the boat came with the wife Sweet!:D
Good luck

CantRepeat
05-24-2010, 04:16 AM
I believe if you get to close to 12v constant to the lite it will burn up pretty quickly. I know when I used to sell them it was a must to have a resistor installed. Here is a link to a PDF file that talks about it.

http://www.mr-gasket.com/pdf/502.pdf

rmasterson
05-24-2010, 06:43 AM
Thanks for all the comments.

Does anyone have advice on how to deal with a stripped out stringer where the motor mount attaches? I have already gone from a 3/8" lag bolt to a 1/2", but that didn't help. Lag anchors? Wood repair? I will need to do something soon so i can get this thing running by the weekend.

Ron

oxberger
05-24-2010, 08:12 AM
Ron, it's looking real good! My boat doesn't have any wood in the structure, so I'm not familiar with with how the motor mount and stringer come together. It sounds like the stringer may need replacing so the mount can be secured the right way. Hopefully one of the other guys can help answer this for you.

rmasterson
05-24-2010, 08:40 AM
Can someone help me determine which way this pump should turn? I have it installed the way it came off the engine, but I doesn't look right to me. Being a chemical engineer, i don't see how it can pump the way it is installed. If you look at the pump in the picture, should the shaft turn clockwise or counterclockwise? The way it is installed on the boat, the top connector in the picture is the inlet and the way it is on the boat, the shaft will turn clockwise.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1550

oxberger
05-24-2010, 09:09 AM
Ron, the way you have it there is correct. It spins clockwise. I've been told that even if you put it in with the blades going the other way, the first time you start it up and run water through it, it will correct the blades on it. Not sure if that's true or not, but makes sense. Funny, I was out on the lake with a friend yesterday and his impeller went up. Had to carefully limp home.

ski_king
05-24-2010, 09:18 AM
Be real careful reinstalling the pump on the engine. It is possible to install it backwards where it pumps in reverse. I would hate to see you overheat that new engine.
Unfortunately, I do not remember which way is correct without looking at my boat.

Do you have a picture of the setup on the old engine to reference?


As far as the engine mount, there may be a temporary way to fix this such as adding epoxy or a similar material to the existing hole, then re-drilling for the lag bolt. Hopefully this is the only effected area of your stringers.

rmasterson
05-24-2010, 09:20 AM
Thats the way i figured it too, but on my boat, it is arranged so that it will run counter clockwise. By the way, i was curious about the impeller changing direction yesterday so i tried it by hand. It does just simply flip around.

rmasterson
05-24-2010, 09:43 AM
Wow Ski King. That is impressive. I cropped a picture from my old motor to show how the pump is installed. It is a standard rotation motor and unless i've hit my head, the front of the crankshaft will turn clockwise. If you look at the pump in this picture, i don't think it was installed right.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1568

ski_king
05-24-2010, 09:49 AM
Let me check my boat out tonight and post a picture. I know mine is puming the right direction. I will only make that mistake once.

The rotation arrows in my post above may be backwards. The photo was just to show it is possible to install the pump backwards.

oxberger
05-24-2010, 09:52 AM
Ski King, thanks for the clarification I had it right in my head, but described it incorrectly. Sorry guys. I'll do better next time. Ron, I'm not sure. I'll have to check my engine when I get home and see. I'll try and get a pic for you.

1redTA
05-24-2010, 06:18 PM
is the bolt that is stripped out vertical or horizontal? I would drill the horizontal mount all the way thru and use a thru bolt with washers and such. I believe the pump on my 81 is run the same as yours

83SuperSlot
05-24-2010, 06:28 PM
Looks like it is coming together nicely... Good work!

bkhallpass
05-24-2010, 06:36 PM
Stringers are tough question. You are moving full steam ahead on the engine, I'm sure you are anxious to get it in the boat and get out on the water. On the other hand, apparently the boat has been in the family for some time, and I'm sure you'd like to keep and use it for years.

If you have rot around the mounts, you can be almost positive there is rot throughout the stringers. Doing the job now might slow down your plans for using the boat. On the other hand,
you probably will only have to do it once in your lifetime. If you don't do the stringers now, you are still going to have to try to patch it, and you will end up having to remove the engine, and everything else again when you do the stringer job.

Maybe you can do some prying around other areas of the stringer. Depending upon what you see, that may help you decide whether to do the stringers now or later.

BKH

KHall
05-24-2010, 06:51 PM
Wow Ski King. That is impressive. I cropped a picture from my old motor to show how the pump is installed. It is a standard rotation motor and unless i've hit my head, the front of the crankshaft will turn clockwise. If you look at the pump in this picture, i don't think it was installed right.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1568

That looks correct for clockwise rotation of pump. The bottom hose is where the impeller blades are opening, provides suction. The hose on top is where the blades collapse providing pressure to discharge.

rmasterson
05-24-2010, 07:05 PM
Thanks to all. I just got home from work and i am going to do a little stringer investigation.

I talked to the wonderful folks at Skidim.com about the water pump and they helped me out with that issue.

americanskierJim
05-25-2010, 02:50 PM
Rmasterson, Are you going to clean your pully's? If you dont clean them you wil be buying belts left and right. I had to sandblast all of mine then painted them and bolted the them back on. it you cant blast them I would take some 80 grit sandpaper or wire wheel and try and clean them up some. Just my :twocents:

"Update" I see you have all ready cleaned your's or put new ones on. Looks wonderful.

cptskier15
05-27-2010, 07:18 AM
When I was sanding down the pulleys on my 81's motor I decided to take a short cut and just use sand paper while the engine was running, this was fine until it got caught in the pulleys and tore the top of my finger off and the fan belt came off. My dad had a great laugh! Note the bag on the left hand, 5 minutes after strapped up and back on the boat. Tip of finger grew back and can almost fully bend middle finger fully :) Was lucky did not lose more :D

On the point of the water pump, we found if it looks wrong it is actually right, only thing we have a problem with is that the pump has no adjustment as the metal U bend for water hose does not allow the pump any closer in so there is no adjustment for the water pump, is this right? The engine has been rebuilt so many times before we got it and then a few more times once we got it so no idea what it is supposed to look like. Also in South Africa so not many of these boats/motors around so hard to find anyone that has a clue.

When we got our boat it did not have a thermostat in the top of the water pump system, is it supposed to have one as the mechanic said we need it but ended up having to take it out in the middle of the dam when temp sky rocketed. Any ideas?

We had same problem with the old exhaust manifolds leaking into the motor and seizing it. So we went the S/S route, they are built by the guys who make the racing manifolds for ford GT 40's :)

rmasterson
05-27-2010, 01:47 PM
This is what the motor looks like now.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1566

I did a close up of the water pumps and hoses so you can see what it is supposed to look like.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1593

rmasterson
05-27-2010, 01:50 PM
As for the thermostat, the engine originally came with a 143 degree F thermostat, but some people change them out for a 160 degree thermostat. Make sure the thermostat isn't installed upside down. Also, the thermostat doesnt go directly on the intake. It is installed on the upper thermostat housing.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-27-2010, 03:18 PM
When I was sanding down the pulleys on my 81's motor I decided to take a short cut and just use sand paper while the engine was running, this was fine until it got caught in the pulleys and tore the top of my finger off and the fan belt came off. My dad had a great laugh! Note the bag on the left hand, 5 minutes after strapped up and back on the boat. Tip of finger grew back and can almost fully bend middle finger fully :) Was lucky did not lose more :D

On the point of the water pump, we found if it looks wrong it is actually right, only thing we have a problem with is that the pump has no adjustment as the metal U bend for water hose does not allow the pump any closer in so there is no adjustment for the water pump, is this right? The engine has been rebuilt so many times before we got it and then a few more times once we got it so no idea what it is supposed to look like. Also in South Africa so not many of these boats/motors around so hard to find anyone that has a clue.

When we got our boat it did not have a thermostat in the top of the water pump system, is it supposed to have one as the mechanic said we need it but ended up having to take it out in the middle of the dam when temp sky rocketed. Any ideas?

We had same problem with the old exhaust manifolds leaking into the motor and seizing it. So we went the S/S route, they are built by the guys who make the racing manifolds for ford GT 40's :)

Welcome to Team Talk. That finger looks a little tender, but those exhaust manifolds look fantastic.

Is your raw water pump belt stretched out or too long to work properly. Sounds like you have your hands full - no pun intended.

cptskier15
05-27-2010, 03:44 PM
The belt may be a little streched but I am unable to physically move the pump any closer in on the mounts without touching the metal U water pipe. If you look on rmasterson photo his one is also at full adjustment, not much play. I was just wondering if I had the wrong belt, but if the photo is right, then it should be fine.

Thermostat, if I am right its the housing on top with the 3 pipes leading from it? Will have to try re install it next time we go to lake.

Thanks.

Have some questions on tuning the motor but I dont know if this is the correct thread to ask on?

markismm
05-27-2010, 03:49 PM
Check out post 96 on this thread:

http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=33556&page=10

This is my trial and error with the sea pump. Read the post and you will not make the same mistake.

By the way the engine looks nice.

rmasterson
05-27-2010, 05:43 PM
Yes. The upper housing where the three hoses connect is called the upper thermostat housing. Under that housing you should find a round place where the thermostat should fit right into.

As for the "U" pipe.... just pull it toward the front of the engine a little so the raw water pump will move so you can use a shorter belt if needed. Just make sure it isn't rubbing the raw water pulley when you tighten everything back up. My clears the pulley but only by a little.

rmasterson
05-27-2010, 05:48 PM
DANG Mark. That engine is SICK !! I just thought mine was looking good.

As for the raw water pump, the people at SKIDIM.com told me to install it so that the screw is toward the engine just as you learned by trial and error. He also said a trick he uses is to feel the back of the raw water pump when it is running. If it starts to get hot, it is not pumping right. If it stays approximately lake temp, then it is pumping ok.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-27-2010, 05:49 PM
The belt may be a little streched but I am unable to physically move the pump any closer in on the mounts without touching the metal U water pipe. If you look on rmasterson photo his one is also at full adjustment, not much play. I was just wondering if I had the wrong belt, but if the photo is right, then it should be fine.

Thermostat, if I am right its the housing on top with the 3 pipes leading from it? Will have to try re install it next time we go to lake.

Thanks.

Have some questions on tuning the motor but I dont know if this is the correct thread to ask on?

No problem with starting a new thread for your tuning questions.

83SuperSlot
05-28-2010, 12:30 AM
I've seen the same thing with your finger with people putting belts on while the motor is running.... OUCH! The motor looks awesome!

rmasterson
05-28-2010, 02:01 PM
I have the interior stripped out now and i only found one place in the stringer where it is rotten. Unfortunately, it is right where the engine mounts and the transmission mounts. I'm going to try to work on it this weekend, but i plan on driving to Destin for a little off-shore fishing Sunday!! :D

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1598

Everyone have a great HOLIDAY WEEKEND.

milehigh970
06-03-2010, 11:50 PM
Looking amazing! As much as I been frustrated these past 2 weeks.. I can't wait till fall to really tear down and show some love! Keep it up!

cptskier15
06-10-2010, 04:12 AM
Hey All,

Just re painted the motor and replaced all the coil wires and the "in gear" cut out wires.

Started first time after all the stuff was put back on but still not sure about the timing on the motor though. Thought might enjoy the pictures..

jipster43
06-11-2010, 05:08 PM
Looks awesome! Keep the pics coming!

JP :)

rmasterson
07-18-2010, 06:53 AM
Finally, I have had time to work on the boat again. It is amazing how summer activities and work get in the way of a restore project.

Here is the repair to the stringer. It is not professional, but it will get the job done. I cut the section of stringer out, fiberglassed a piece of treated lumber in, and then used a piece of treated plywood as a reinforcing piece.

Here is a pic

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1806

rmasterson
07-18-2010, 07:13 AM
This is a piece of floor i needed to replace. Treated plywood.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1807

rmasterson
07-18-2010, 07:14 AM
The engine is finally in. I have to wire it up today and i am almost ready to test it.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=1808

rmasterson
07-26-2010, 11:04 AM
Finally..... after many months of work, my new engine has roared to life and i was able to take a few laps on the lake yesterday.

My problem was that the idle was WAY to high even with the idle screw backed out all the way. I brought the boat back home to get my tools and then back to the lake..... now i am not getting any fuel to my carb. I have the carb removed and the fuel hose connected to a gallon jug. When i crank the engine, no fuel from the pump. And yes, the tank has gas in it. ;)

I do have a question for all of you Mastercraft gurus out there.... will a normal automotive (manual) fuel pump work or do i have to pay the extra $70 for one from a marine shop? I haven't checked to make sure i am getting fuel to the pump yet, but i will before i buy a new one. I just wanted to ask for input before i ordered a new pump. Any help is appreciated.

thatsmrmastercraft
07-26-2010, 11:12 AM
Go with the marine version from SKIDIM. Part number 0406 for $79.50.

rmasterson
07-26-2010, 11:38 AM
I've read a little more about it.... it appears that the biggest difference is that the marine version has a "vent" that goes back up to the flame arrestor if the diaphram fails instead of dumping fuel into the bilge.

MAN, the engine sounded SO sweet. I have to admit, when i finally got it fired up, i had to do about a 5 minute happy dance. I just confirmed to my wife that i am truly insane.

And for all you out there that might be reading this.... the engine runs a lot better when the spark plugs are hooked up to the right spot on the distributor. :D

TLR67
07-26-2010, 11:43 AM
Awesome Thread Man!!!! Great work as well!!! Congratulations on the Project!! My wife didnt come with ****!

rmasterson
07-26-2010, 12:00 PM
Ha Ha.... I got a lot more than a boat with my wife. She is a REAL keeper.

Once i make a few last tuning adjustments to the engine, all i have left to do is put new carpet in. I will post some pics when i get that done.

A couple more less important projects are to add tunes to the boat and redo the swim platform anti-slip top coat.

I put the official Tennessee registration numbers on it yesterday.... i had been saving that step until it was ready to be on the water. It felt SO good to put the numbers on the boat. Even if it was 101 degrees when i was doing it.

thatsmrmastercraft
07-26-2010, 12:17 PM
I know that happy dance, and the fun of a proper running engine once the plug wires all go to the correct location. Did you get any backfires through the carb while getting your plug wires sorted out? If you did, you might be in for a power valve replacement.

Congrats on a job well done.

rjracin240
07-26-2010, 12:20 PM
Congrats on the boat project, recently bought a running 88 190 Prostar, definitely needs some work so thanks for the lessons from your thread, keep em coming

rmasterson
07-26-2010, 01:08 PM
No big backfires, but when it was running yesterday, i turned the idle mixture screws in and it died. The way i understand it, that is a pretty good indication that the power valve is ok since it didn't allow fuel in by that route.

thatsmrmastercraft
07-26-2010, 01:10 PM
You got it. Keep up the good work.

Willski
07-26-2010, 01:40 PM
Congrats. That is a big undertaking! Worth the work though isn't it?

rmasterson
07-26-2010, 02:07 PM
Ha. It has been months of me using almost every spare weekend to work on it. Ask me again when i have spent a few weekends on the water with NO problems.... jk It has been very rewarding and a good distraction from the day-to-day stresses.

I feel like i know every square inch of the boat now.

thatsmrmastercraft
07-26-2010, 02:33 PM
Ha. It has been months of me using almost every spare weekend to work on it. Ask me again when i have spent a few weekends on the water with NO problems.... jk It has been very rewarding and a good distraction from the day-to-day stresses.

I feel like i know every square inch of the boat now.

It's definitely not a bad thing to become one with your MC. :cool:

rmasterson
07-26-2010, 04:27 PM
Since this is my first inboard boat, i do have one question related to the drive shaft / prop.

When i was testing the boat the other day, i noticed that i could "feel" the prop spinning. It wasn't anything that was a bad shake or anything, but i didn't know if that was normal either. Can someone let me know if this type of feel is normal?

thatsmrmastercraft
07-26-2010, 04:59 PM
The propeller on your boat has so much more power than an outboard or I/O you can feel it's every move.

rmasterson
07-26-2010, 07:23 PM
Thanks for the answer. I haven't opened it up yet, but it is pretty amazing how quickly it gets up to speed. Nothing like an outboard.

thatsmrmastercraft
07-27-2010, 10:11 AM
I went through all the same things last year.

You are going to love really getting into the throttle and hearing the secondaries open up. :cool:

rmasterson
07-29-2010, 09:00 PM
I've made a couple of good runs now, but after my first run, my fuel pump failed.... got that replaced. Now, just like before. When i run it for a while and the engine warms up, it will not start when i get it back to the ramp. At least i have been smart enough not to shut it off down river.

My coil is getting SO hot i cannot touch it. I am sure that is why it is not starting back up (combined with the fact that the alternator isn't charging). I have a new alternator, and new wiring harness ordered from skidim. However, i am not sure that will fix my coil problem. I have checked all the wiring and it is correct. I use a ballast resistor and the coil is getting about 6.5 volts. The distributor has been converted to electronic ignition using a Mallory Unilite conversion kit. CAN ANYONE HELP ME ???? I can't really take the boat out and enjoy it if i cannot turn it off.

And for MrMastercraft.... when i hit the throttle... holy cow, it has some serious power when the secondaries kick in. :D

Thanks to whomever helps me..... and a cold beer on me.

rmasterson
07-29-2010, 09:10 PM
I don't normally do this, but i am going to make an exception. I want to tell you guys about the best company out there for inboard parts..... www.skidim.com

I have ordered so much stuff from them, I feel like i personally know them. They are the best people to deal with. If you ask for a part on a certain day, it's there. If they can't meet your deadline, they personally call you and tell you when they can deliver. They have been a great help even for technical questions. This is the FIRST time i have ever recommended any business for anything, but they are worth it. If you haven't tried them yet, give them a try.

And no, i don't get any $ for this endorsement or even a discount on my next order. Just a great company and i am giving them props.

Ron

rmasterson
06-29-2011, 09:40 AM
Here are some pictures of my restore. I have been enjoying being on the lake and havent updated much on here for a while. I am SO pleased with how it turned out.

This is my reworked swim deck. I stripped it off and applied several coats of gel coat and a little sand.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=3250

This is the new head unit. It is a Clarion CMS-1. The main control box is mounted under the dash. The control head is water proof. It will control my iPod, a USB stick, Sirrius, and any other random AUX input. So far, pretty pleased with it.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=3251

New 6.5" JL Audio speakers

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=3252

This is the new powerplant. Almost everything on it is brand new. The ignition system is awesome. It is a DUI integrated distributor.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=3253

thatsmrmastercraft
06-29-2011, 09:42 AM
Really looking good. All your hard work really shows:cool:

rmasterson
06-29-2011, 09:44 AM
This is the view from the back deck. All new carpet.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=3254

HERE SHE IS. Ready for the weekend!!!

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=3255

03geetee
06-29-2011, 11:52 AM
Boat looks great man. Another one saved from the depths!

Interior looks really nice as does the engine.

JTR

aquaman
06-29-2011, 12:06 PM
This is the view from the back deck. All new carpet.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=3254

HERE SHE IS. Ready for the weekend!!!

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=245&pictureid=3255


Definitely a survivor.

Nice job.

SunCoast 83
06-29-2011, 12:10 PM
Agreed. great job

oxberger
06-29-2011, 04:55 PM
Awesome Job Ron!!!!! So what lake do you go out on? BTW, I'm taking a web design class over the summer and I'm doing an InboardRestore web site. Would it be ok to use some of the info off of the thread here as content for the site? I'd give you full credit of course.

rmasterson
06-29-2011, 06:28 PM
We mostly go to Watts Bar and Chickamauga. I am ok with you using the info from my rebuild. Send me the info when you start working on it.

oxberger
06-30-2011, 02:37 PM
We mostly go to Watts Bar and Chickamauga. I am ok with you using the info from my rebuild. Send me the info when you start working on it.

Thanks! Will do. The project is due July 5th. I've started it already and kind of have the layout set up, now I just need to add the pictures and content. Pictures are easy, it's the content that's going to be a PAIN.