View Full Version : Uh-oh the hatch wont raise!

05-21-2010, 01:50 AM
Hello all,

I just picked up my 2000 210VRS from a highly recommended detailer in the local area and was ecstatic with the way my old gal cleaned up! I mean it looks better than it did when I took delivery of it a decade ago!

Now for the sad part...

I have been concerned about the hatch actuator failing someday and always wondered how the heck will I get into the rear compartment if it ever failed in the closed position? Well my fears were realized tonite when I pushed her back into her storage canopy and went to open the hatch to reload all of my gear.

So my question is this, does anyone know how to get the rear hatch open with destroying anything? My first thought was to pull the rear seat and then remove the center section that covers the V-drive. Now that the rear seat is out of the way I have realized I cannot remove the upper bolts for lack of access to the nuts on the bottom side. The dividers at the front of the storage area prevent a reach around approach. Removing the pivot srews at the transom dont allow enough of a gap to get to the pin.

I am eagerly awaiting someone to save the day!

Thanks in advance,


05-21-2010, 02:06 AM
It might not be the hydraulic actuator. Well, at least we know that the actuator worked to close the lid...

Maybe it's a fuse, or ignition key switch isn't giving the wire power?

Or even the actual switch to raise and lower the lid located to the right of Drivers seat. Bypass the switch that's easy to get to first, and see if lid works.

Check the switch to see if there's power to that point.

I'll check tomorrow to see if theres anything in the manual...

05-21-2010, 02:07 AM
Man, that sucks!

Check the breaker at the drivers switch; that's the cheap and easy approach.

Check under the dash for a loose connector. On mine, there are two 4-pin connectors under the dash - one with black, red, yellow, red/black, and one with Black, Black, Red/Black, Red - and an 8-pin connector (black, blue, yellow, grey, red, red, yellow) that are in the Hatch circuit. Find them, seperate them, and reconnect them. See if it solves the problem.

Mechanically, I'll take a look this weekend if you still need. I remember staring at the thing for an hour one day, trying to figure out how I'd get in if the motor failed. I don't remember coming up with a good solution other than breaking through the panel at the front of the compartment/behind the port rear seat. It's held in with a couple of screws.

I was planning on making a strap that attached to the pin on one side, and on the side of the pad on the other, so I could fish it out and pull to remove the pin. Never got around to it; maybe now is the time?

Keep us updated; I can go outside and look at whatever you need, presuming our boats are similar.


05-21-2010, 05:20 AM
I had the same problem three weeks ago. It would not open after trailering it home. When you remove the port side rear seat you can look in and see the electric actuator. Bottom and top there are pins that can be easily removed. The problem I had was that the pins were installed the wrong way around and was hitting the engine cover so I could not remove them.
I eventually forced it open and the screws tore out of the cover. The end problem was that the connector had come loose and was not delivering power to the actuator. Made a new bigger bracket to locate in different holes and that was it. Oh I also installed the pins the right way around this time.

05-21-2010, 07:59 AM
Not sure if you're MC is like my old Formula, but you might be able to grab the sunpad and lift it manually (it will feel heavy) because some hydraulic rams on boat hatches have a 2nd rod that will come out manually. You may need a 2nd person to help you.

05-22-2010, 03:09 PM
Thanks for the input guys!

What I wound up doing was removing the back seat so I could get at the bottom of the leading edge of the swim pad. I used the inflateable thingy and wedges from my shop foremans lockout kit to create a gap at the front of the swim pad. I was then able to use the rod from the lockout kit to turn the split ring in the upper retaining pin. The rod from the lock out kit was too flimsy and was just bending but I had anticipated this and borrowed my paintless dent removal guys largest dent removal tool big birtha. I slipped birtha through the gap and into the split ring and with a really big yank the pin popped and I was in!

The morning before I took it to have it detailed I had the actuator out to lower the engine side board. When I reinstalled the actuator I apparaently did not plug the actuator wire on securely as it was laying on the carpet disconnected.

So as usual, it was my fault. Good news is the damage was very minimal and now that the rear seat is out I am going to pull the center section and service the transmission!

Thanks again,


05-22-2010, 05:24 PM
Guess you'll remember to make sure that connector is secure from now on, eh?

Glad you were able to resolve things without breakage.


05-24-2010, 02:34 PM
While I was out on the lake today, I noticed the hinges supporting the rear deck have a couple of Stainless Phillip's screws that are accessible from outside. Take a look back there. I haven't had a chance to try it but it would seem like one could lift the rear of the sundeck after removing the screws...?

I'm glad you figured it out...