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Meadracing
05-15-2010, 03:44 PM
Well I offered someone a couple hundred dollars for a 81s&s and he said yes. The boat has been sitting in his backyard for 9 years. Floor is rotted and preatty sure stringers are rotted. gel coat is ruff, you can feel the metal flake part that is painted. Trailer is also pretty ruff. I have to get 2 new tires just to get it home. I hope I made the right choice, looks like I haveone heck of a project ahead of me. I will post pictures as soon as I can so all of you can see and give me advice.

Jim@BAWS
05-15-2010, 04:00 PM
Well I offered someone a couple hundred dollars for a 81s&s and he said yes. The boat has been sitting in his backyard for 9 years. Floor is rotted and preatty sure stringers are rotted. gel coat is ruff, you can feel the metal flake part that is painted. Trailer is also pretty ruff. I have to get 2 new tires just to get it home. I hope I made the right choice, looks like I haveone heck of a project ahead of me. I will post pictures as soon as I can so all of you can see and give me advice.


Ill buy it for $500 RIGHT NOW No questions asked OK...anyway

You have come to the right place to bring that boat back to life. Take photos and do a COMPLETE History of it if possible. It will really help the RESALE of you ever sell it

Jim@BAWS

Meadracing
05-15-2010, 04:04 PM
After reading LTD's restoration thread I am 90% sure the boat is the same color and configuration as his.

Jim@BAWS
05-15-2010, 04:20 PM
After reading LTM's restoration thread I am 90% sure the boat is the same color and configuration as his.



Grab a camera and take a few photos and post em up

"Were waiting" as the great Judge Smales would say

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=angi1vwUkQc&feature=related

Meadracing
05-16-2010, 10:43 AM
The hull is obviously severly chaulky. I plan on compounding the white parts of the hull but I am not sure what to do with the painted parts. On the painted parts you can acctualy feel the metal flake on the exterior. Is this ok to buff or sould I just wetsand and clear those parts? Are the starts adn the mastercraft logo decals? The boat has a fiberglass platform but I would like to get a teak one. Is this going to be possible? Hopefully if all goes well I will be bring her home tomarrow night but we shall see. Thanks guys

Jim@BAWS
05-16-2010, 11:40 AM
The hull is obviously severly chaulky. I plan on compounding the white parts of the hull but I am not sure what to do with the painted parts. On the painted parts you can acctualy feel the metal flake on the exterior. Is this ok to buff or sould I just wetsand and clear those parts? Are the starts adn the mastercraft logo decals? The boat has a fiberglass platform but I would like to get a teak one. Is this going to be possible? Hopefully if all goes well I will be bring her home tomarrow night but we shall see. Thanks guys

You can remove all the graphics with a heat gun. They are ONLY vinyl. I would recommend that anyway. You will see under the stars and MC logo what the original metal flake looked like. Wetsand down to as fine a grit as possible. Then CLEAR coat the flake only. Wetand and buff the rest. Be prepared this is not a 2-3 hour job. Probably more like 20+ given the condition of the boat.

All the graphics are available for your boat. Right down to the silver round YING YANG stickers on the stern. I know a place that does a GREAT JOB getting you the graphics.
PM or EMAIL me and I will give you the dealers name in Tampa. I think it is Bay Area WaterSports ANYWAY

Get some photos and post this boat up for all to see

Jim@BAWS

JohnnyB
05-16-2010, 07:17 PM
Where's Altlfootr when you need him to post....

"This post is worthless without pictures"

Seriously....Anxious to see your boat......

Cloaked
05-16-2010, 10:39 PM
The hull is obviously severly chaulky. I plan on compounding the white parts of the hull but I am not sure what to do with the painted parts. On the painted parts you can acctualy feel the metal flake on the exterior. Is this ok to buff or sould I just wetsand and clear those parts? Are the starts adn the mastercraft logo decals? The boat has a fiberglass platform but I would like to get a teak one. Is this going to be possible? Hopefully if all goes well I will be bring her home tomarrow night but we shall see. Thanks guysA complete rebuild.

http://billsboatworks.webs.com/materials.htm


.

americanskierJim
05-16-2010, 10:53 PM
After reading LTD's restoration thread I am 90% sure the boat is the same color and configuration as his.

That is good to read. If you need any help or have any question's I will be more than happy to help you out. My boat was the same way as your's rough but it is comming back to life.
congrats on the find. I forgot to add I would like to see some pic's too.

Meadracing
05-17-2010, 11:50 AM
pics comming tonight

83SuperSlot
05-17-2010, 03:00 PM
Man, my '83 has been worth every drop of work I have put into it!

oxberger
05-17-2010, 03:37 PM
Can't wait to see it. I'm in the (slow) process of bringing my '85 SS back to life. Good luck! Anything you do just adds value to it and you'll enjoy the boat that much more when you're done.

83SuperSlot
05-17-2010, 03:46 PM
Can't wait to see it. I'm in the (slow) process of bringing my '85 SS back to life. Good luck! Anything you do just adds value to it and you'll enjoy the boat that much more when you're done.

Ox, any pics of your project??? :popcorn:

oxberger
05-17-2010, 03:51 PM
Unfotunately no. Its seems every camera I have has decide to quit on me. The only good thing is that my project is going so slow (due to time and funds) that I'll probably have another camera by the time I'm able to start back on her. ha ha.

Meadracing
05-17-2010, 07:11 PM
no picture or getting boat tonight, weather is not cooperating. Gotta love South Florida. Does anyone know if I can swap the fiberglass platform for a teak one and how are/expensive is it?

oxberger
05-17-2010, 08:14 PM
You can swap out the fiberglass for teak, but from what I understand it's a pain in the neck. I just saw a thread today about someone doing that I think. Teak tends to be expensive. Personally I like the looks when the boats are kept original. Why did you want to swap it out?

83SuperSlot
05-17-2010, 08:33 PM
Teak was actually a original option as early as '80

Meadracing
05-17-2010, 08:48 PM
I just think the teak is better looking

americanskierJim
05-17-2010, 09:41 PM
I hada glass one on mine and now I am going with teak. It is going to set off the beer bottle brown.

Meadracing
05-18-2010, 01:46 PM
What are your thoughts on composite stringers. I found a company called Seacast that seems like it might do the trick

thatsmrmastercraft
05-18-2010, 01:51 PM
That is a very interesting option. Have you completed the worksheet and calculated the cost yet?

oxberger
05-18-2010, 01:52 PM
Can't go wrong with composite, you won't have to worry about rot anymore and it'll add to the structural integrity from I've been told.

Meadracing
05-18-2010, 09:24 PM
I can't seem to post pictures right. Where the heck do I get a URL from for my picture in my computer?

FoggyNogginz
05-18-2010, 09:37 PM
One option is to upload to a teamtalk album:

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/album.php?do=addalbum

Otherwise you can upload to http://flickr.com or http://photos.live.com and post a link here.

Meadracing
05-18-2010, 09:48 PM
Here are some pictures.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=1512

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=1513

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=1514

Meadracing
05-18-2010, 09:52 PM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=1515

I need to due some slight gel coat repair on the keel. Due from beaching.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=263&pictureid=1516

Just went over today to take some pictures and pickup a tire that won't air. Hopefully I will get the tire on and get the boat home Thursday.

classic_speed
05-18-2010, 09:57 PM
Looks like a great start to a project! You will have an awesome boat in the end.

Meadracing
05-18-2010, 10:06 PM
Can anyone give me a fairly close estimate on what the length is (tounge of trailer to end of swaim platform) and width. I am trying to see if it will fit in my garage.

classic_speed
05-18-2010, 10:43 PM
24-25 ft. with tounge

Meadracing
05-18-2010, 10:48 PM
that seems alittle long. Why would a 19 foot boat have 6 extra feet tacked on for tounge and swim platform

classic_speed
05-18-2010, 10:51 PM
Just measured the exact boat. The boat is longer than 19ft nose to tail. 19 is water line legnth i believe.

americanskierJim
05-18-2010, 11:14 PM
Kool Meadracing, That is the same boat. Looks like yours is white on the bottom just like mine. If you need any seat patterns I can send you the ones I have. Or if you need and other help.

SunCoast 83
05-19-2010, 12:45 AM
How big is your garage? I have a 21x22 garage that my 1983 fits in ( basically the same hull dimensions) I do have to angle it to make it work...

Meadracing
05-19-2010, 09:40 AM
My garage 10x23 approx. I have basically 21 feet to work with give or take alittle because of my washer and dryer. My 2009 supercab F150 6.5foot bed fit in the garage with alittle room to spare.

83SuperSlot
05-19-2010, 10:35 AM
Definitely a good project. I would guess that you are looking at about 100hrs - 150hrs of work to get that one back.. Good luck, keep the pics coming!!

thatsmrmastercraft
05-19-2010, 10:48 AM
You should be real close in fitting it in the garage. Worse case scenario would be the adding a swing-away tongue. Looks like a great project. I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy mine.

oxberger
05-19-2010, 12:14 PM
Wow Meadracing, that is quite a project. I don't know about you, but the work is a labor of love for me. You're hooked now. You'll never go back to another brand ski boat. BTW, that trailer looks to be about the same shape as mine. americanskierJim will definitely be a wealth of knowledge for you. His resto thread is on here. I know I got a lot from it.

Meadracing
05-19-2010, 02:41 PM
Thanks oxberger. I should have more pictures soon. got a new tire today and mounted it at the shop. should be bring her home thursday after work

Meadracing
05-21-2010, 04:39 PM
Boat fit no problem. here is more pics
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1534

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1535

I clean a spot with bleach/water. Whats the best thing to clean with?

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1536

This is in rough shaped. Very dry and cracking. Any Ideas?

Meadracing
05-21-2010, 05:04 PM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1537

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1538

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1539

Holes and rotten wood in stringers.

americanskierJim
05-21-2010, 05:06 PM
The best thing to with is it get some 409 and clean it. I did it to mine and it looks good. if you are going to take it off be verry careful. I would losen the gauges and take off the wheel and work it off. Then to shine it up I used some armorall.

Meadracing
05-21-2010, 05:09 PM
The gauge pod (don't know what you guys call it) might be alitlle to far gone for armorall but its worth a shot

americanskierJim
05-21-2010, 05:09 PM
Lets see the inside pics. Do you have all the wood seat baces and gunnel sides for it?

Meadracing
05-21-2010, 05:44 PM
No gunnel sides, no rear seat parts of any kind. The passenger L seat pretty much has nothing left adn drivers seat is only fiberglass frame and base. Not sure what to do about all that.

americanskierJim
05-21-2010, 07:44 PM
Mead, I have some gunnel sides made up all ready if you need them I can ship them to you. for the driver seat being glass don't worry mine was like that too. It is getting new foam and skin's on them now. If you want a rear seat look at my post how to make one for your boat. only thing you have to be diffrent from mine is you have the spotter seat mine is a bench seat. I have all my wood saved that I could get so I could remake my seats. Any of that you need I can send out so you have something to work from.

bkhallpass
05-21-2010, 09:19 PM
I would think you probably want to do the stringers first. I am halfway through a stringer job myself (another brand). It's not hard, but it is messy, and time consuming. Figure close to 200 hours for floors and stringers. If you worry about paint, buffing the hull, upholstery, etc. before you do the stringers, you'll likely make a mess of them while working on the stringers and/or have a bunch of stuff to get in your way, store, etc. You'll also have time to make seats, etc. when the fiberglass resin is drying.

I took the boat off the trailer to do the stringer job. Gives me a lot more room in the garage. Also, I was able to drop the boat down about 15 inches from trailer height, which is nice when you are going to climb in and out about 1000 times.

Whether you do the stringer job on the trailer or not, you need to support the hull. 4 points along the outside chine (2 on each side, stern corner, and about even with the windshield. Level the boat before you start removing stringers. Leave about 2 inches of the floor around the hull for measurements and leveling. You'll remove this later, but it's very nice to be able to level off the old floor when setting the stringers. If you take it off the trailer, you may also want a few blocks under the hull, as it tends to flex, distorting the shape a bit once your cut the stringers out.

If you enjoy this type of work, it's a lot of fun. If you want that boat in the water a month from now, might be a challenge.

BKH

P.S. The "gunnel sides" are called combing pads.

Meadracing
05-22-2010, 12:02 PM
Can someone post a picture of the combing pads. What do they do?

Meadracing
05-22-2010, 03:00 PM
Where can I get trailer part? I need alot of things that might be hard to find. Trailer has no lights or wiring. Left rear guid post bracket is broken off. Is the front stop safe, it looks wierd. Just a piece of steel following the bow of the boat with a hole at the top for the front eyelet.

bkhallpass
05-22-2010, 04:49 PM
I don't have a picture of a combing pad. There are pictures in American Skier Jim's thread of the combing pads he built. They are the upholstered pieces that run along the inside of the gunnel. Usually plywood, foam, cover with upholsters. Some are just as wide as the gunnel, some run to the floor. Some have cutouts for speakers. Some have cutouts for storage at the sides of the boat.

You can get parts for trailers and almost any trailer supply store. There are also lots of trailer supplies online. Champion trailer is one.

There are trailers being sold today that have that bar, so I assume it is safe. It is kind of a PITA when putting the boat on the trailer. Have to line up that bar and put a clip through it. I prefer a winch, but that's me.

BKH

Meadracing
05-23-2010, 05:19 PM
I started doing some cleaning today. Here are some more pictures.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1555

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1556

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1557

I think the pylon base is going to need to be replaced. Where can I get a new pylon and parts?

Meadracing
05-23-2010, 05:22 PM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1558

I did alittle more cleaning with bleach on the bow.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1559

Rotten observrers seat base.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1560

No combing pads. I think I will just leave them out.

Joseph
05-23-2010, 05:30 PM
man, this is cool. you have vision. (and time). wish you the best. it's going to b awsome.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-23-2010, 06:12 PM
Looking good Mead. Mastercraft By Design has replacement posts. They aren't the old style 2 1/2 diameter with the cross-bar at the top though. I think americanskierJim fabricated a new pylon base for his boat.

Meadracing
05-23-2010, 10:07 PM
Is the base of the pylon and where it goes trought the bracket the same as this new one on Mastercraft by Design.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-23-2010, 10:19 PM
The Stars & Stripes boats had 2 1/2 diameter pylons. Following that there was a change to 3" diameter posts. Give John at MBD a shout for actual dimensions.

The MBD pylon for a 190 is 42" tall. Put a tape to yours to check for height. I would check my '77 but I just put the cover on for the night.

Is your pylon so corroded that it can't be cleaned and used?

Meadracing
05-23-2010, 10:56 PM
Right where it goes below the wood floor it is starting to corrode. I chipped of to big pieces to get the floor out. I don't even know if I will be able to get it out of the I beam and bottom cup in one piece

atlfootr
05-23-2010, 11:11 PM
Where's atlfootr when you need him to post....

"This post is worthless without pictures"Right here, my brother :D

atlfootr
05-23-2010, 11:13 PM
Great job Mead on post'n those pics ... keep 'em coming!
And congrats on your :cool: new project

americanskierJim
05-24-2010, 12:14 AM
Mead, I cut my pylon mounting bace out with a die grinder on the front side and down both sides and it will come out I did it to mine. As yours is in bad shape mine was to all I did was sand blasted it and the top angle iron piece to. Then when I put it back in I cut a plate out of 1/4 inch steel and drilled holes and put them on the out side of the angle and bolted it back together. For the bottom I put 3 layers of fiberglass matting over it and it is so strong now if it was to come lose the rest of the boat would come with it.

bkhallpass
05-24-2010, 02:00 AM
Looking better already.

My pylon was pretty rusty at the mount. Once I got it out of the boat, it cleaned up pretty well.

BTW, apparently I cannot spell. It is actually coaming pad, not combing pad.

BKH

oxberger
05-24-2010, 10:27 AM
Looking good Mead! Way to go! Keep up the good work. Once the wood on my coaming (combing) pads rotted I took them off and kept the skins to use as templates for the new vinyl. If I can bring back the color of the gel coat I may just permanently leave them off. BTW, if you get the dash off and it's not in too bad shape. I would clean it up with acetone, then spray it with high heat rattle can paint since it's in the sun a lot, then coat it in clear.

Meadracing
05-24-2010, 03:53 PM
All done cleaning for now. No more mildew. I really hit the boat hard this morning with bleach and got all the outside and trailer fenders clean.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1569

My Rig.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1570

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1571

Meadracing
05-24-2010, 03:59 PM
I will be leaving tuesday night on vacation for 2 weeks. When I get back I will start a new thread for everyone to follow the restoration. First up is the trailer so I need everyones opinion on what color to make the trailer. Also I need to get new brake lights and wiring. Is all trailer wiring standard? Can I just get a generic wiring kit?

SunCoast 83
05-25-2010, 12:05 AM
That boat is looking better already. Cant wait to see the resto thread. Was trying to send you pics of combing pads but my iPhone sends transmits the pics too large. The phone is new so I havent figured out the resizing yet....

Miss Rita
05-25-2010, 12:18 AM
You're going to have a lot of surrogate boat owners following your progress with this project!

I need everyones opinion on what color to make the trailer. Also I need to get new brake lights and wiring. Is all trailer wiring standard? Can I just get a generic wiring kit?

IMO, the trailer would look best if it matched the boat, either tan or brown. I'd go with tan, easier to maintain, wouldn't show spots/dust.

Generic wiring kits can be bought almost anywhere. Be sure to go with LED lights.

cbryan70
05-25-2010, 12:20 AM
I would keep it the same color as the fenders.....

Meadracing
05-25-2010, 12:25 PM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1575

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1576

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=265&pictureid=1577

oxberger
05-25-2010, 12:53 PM
Wow, it's really coming along... vacation, must be nice. I'd go with the tan to match the boat. I'm very interested in seeing the trailer resto. I really need to do mine and seeing what you do will help. I think americanskierJim redid his, if it wasn't him it may have been 83SuperSlot. There'll be plenty of people with info for you. So have you decided what your' going to do about the pole now that it's out?

Meadracing
05-25-2010, 01:54 PM
Ox, I am not real sure what I'm going to do about the pole. When I get back I will take it to work and see if I can seperate the post from bracket. My options may be limited. I I get a new pylon it will be 3" instead of 2 1/2 so I would need a new bracket. Any thoughts.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-25-2010, 02:05 PM
Wow, that pylon does look bad. Good luck with getting it apart after your trip. Perhaps once it is apart it won't look so bad. Otherwise it will be time to fabricate a 3" assembly.

americanskierJim
05-25-2010, 11:45 PM
Mead, If you dont want your pylon I would buy it from you or if not send it to me I can reface it and make another lower base for you. It would take me a week for turn around time. Did you see what mine looks like after it was turned? Looks almost new.

I havent redone my trailer yet I will be soon. l am going to leave mine black.

cptskier15
05-27-2010, 08:50 AM
I have the same problem with my pole in my 81 S/S, the lower base is cracked and i think is just being held my the corrosion. What does the bottom base mount onto? And what are the other mountings of the pole? Can't see on my boat as behind that massive steel bar.

Thanks

americanskierJim
05-28-2010, 09:38 PM
Cptskier15, There is a metal plate under the base that sets flat to the bottom of the floor. I just had mine out and reglassed mine back in. it is not to bad of a job if you look on my thread "LTD" you will see how mine looked before and after. not sure what page it is on. I hope this will help you out.

Bellinghamster
05-30-2010, 11:50 AM
My pylon and supports looked pretty much the same. I had to slit the corroded steel with a cutoff wheel on a grinder, then pry it open with a large screwdriver to get it off the pylon. I ground out the fiberglass holding the base support to the hull, then welded up a socket-on-a-plate that mounted to the top skeg bolts. It's much more secure than relying on a secondary fiberglass bond, and it's removable if the need should ever arises. I don't know the factory wouldn't have done it that way. I also put drain holes in the bottom of the vertical pipe to prevent water from collecting and causing corrosion.

The story of my 78 S&S stringer replacement here: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=23492. Start to finish in under 6 weeks of evenings and weekends (about 90 hours total, but at least 30 of that was spent cleaning up the engine and other mechanical bits)