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Latetowork
05-11-2010, 12:46 AM
My wife and I picked up our first boat over the winter, a 2003 X30. Boat is in good shape except a few details I'm working on, and my next project to tackle to be ready for the summer is the stereo.

As in..... there isn't one.

Apparently the original owner lost the boat to the bank, and decided he was taking the tower speakers, amp and head unit with him, leaving the stock blown Clarion cockpit speakers behind.

So I'm going to be replacing the entire deal and am looking for some input on components I should be picking up.

Only requirement from the wife is I maintain the white speakers, as the boat is Blue and white with white/gray interior.

Any input on where to start would be appreciated (IE suggestions on HU, AMP, the whole shabang).

Boater_C
05-11-2010, 02:20 AM
I really like my JL Audio speakers!

Latetowork
05-11-2010, 02:27 AM
I really like my JL Audio speakers!

Which head unit do you have? I'm trying to shop for one that will fit, and give me an Aux or USB input to play my Zune HD.

Thrall
05-11-2010, 09:54 AM
Clarion CMD4 head units have an aux in and 3 pre-amp outs and can be had pretty cheap (there was a guy selling one here not long ago pretty reasonably), if a dbl size h/u fits, otherwise I'd get the cheapeast one that has the features you're looking for. I believe Alpine has better than avg pre-amp outs (higher voltage).
Speakers, Polk, Clarion, or JL are good, JL being arguably the best quality. Looking for 6.5's for the cockpit?
I hit up ebay for some of my gear, there's lots to choose from. Around $200/pr will get you some top quality component or coaxial speakers.
Tower speakers...........start reading up on here. Lots of options. Can go with the MC/JL OEM cans from the 05-06 boats. Those would do well, used ones for sale here in the Marketplace typically and they're very good quality. For that $ you could get Exiles, Wetsounds, Bullets, etc, all good speakers.
Amps, again, hit up ebay. I went w/ JL marine amps partly because they're OEM, partly because they're good quality, but do some shopping. If your boat is typically dry (as in, not left in the water or slipped all year), I've never had bad luck with non -marine components in my boat. I think the big deal w/ marine components is more corrosion resistant to humidity. I think either will die if they get swamped, but icbw.
FInd your speakers first then match the amps, power wise to your speakers....in general.

And it helps to do a dwg or schematic of what you're planning and solidify that before buying. Kepps the multiple orders and trips to the stereo store down.

bturner2
05-11-2010, 09:57 AM
Not sure which head unit was in your boat before but the CMD6 I installed last year has been great. Native iPOD support, full USB support and the new remote is easy to use and see even if bright conditions.

x2 on the JL Audio speakers if you can afford them. I've also been very happy with my JL Audio amps.

If you plan on spending mad money I've also been very happy with my Wet Sounds tower speakers.

You can get some killer deals on all this gear if you search the net real good. I bought a lot of gear from Sonic Eletronix (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/) and was happy with their service but once you find out what you want check as many sources as possible to get the best deal.

Latetowork
05-11-2010, 11:11 AM
Thanks guys.

I have no clue what head unit was in it previously, it was gone when I bought the boat. I'm looking to go with the 6.5 components so I don't have to drill any holes.

The boat is dry, will be trailered when not in the water for play time.

I'll start researching the tower speakers.

Smoothie
05-11-2010, 02:49 PM
Just put Exile on my tower and LOVE them. Probably need two more. That might have to happen mid summer as cash flows in!

Kyle
05-11-2010, 05:00 PM
Really like my JL's as well.

RiverMC197
05-12-2010, 06:52 PM
Are people buying component or coaxial speakers for the interior? What's the big advantage to component speakers? I have a 97 PS 205, and am looking to replace the speakers (no holes for separate component tweeters). I am looking for volume over anything else. I know those component speakers are nice, but expensive. Does anyone have recommendations for bang-for-the-buck speakers that won't crackle at high volumes?

timvan
05-12-2010, 08:52 PM
Components tend to have a tighter bass as there isnt a hole in the center df the driver for the tweeter mounting

east tx skier
05-12-2010, 09:06 PM
Are people buying component or coaxial speakers for the interior? What's the big advantage to component speakers? I have a 97 PS 205, and am looking to replace the speakers (no holes for separate component tweeters). I am looking for volume over anything else. I know those component speakers are nice, but expensive. Does anyone have recommendations for bang-for-the-buck speakers that won't crackle at high volumes?

Bang for the buck wise, I've been very pleased with the Polk DB651 in the front and the comparable Polk DB series speaker in a 7x9 or whatever you may have as your rears. The 651's are available anywhere from $50--$75 per pair. Polk has an ebay store. Check there first. I have the DB651 in the front and the DB6501 (component) in the rear. I'd have done the coaxials in both locations, but the previous owner had already cut a hole for the components so I left them alone and replaced with the same.

RiverMC197
05-14-2010, 01:44 AM
Bang for the buck wise, I've been very pleased with the Polk DB651 in the front and the comparable Polk DB series speaker in a 7x9 or whatever you may have as your rears. The 651's are available anywhere from $50--$75 per pair. Polk has an ebay store. Check there first. I have the DB651 in the front and the DB6501 (component) in the rear. I'd have done the coaxials in both locations, but the previous owner had already cut a hole for the components so I left them alone and replaced with the same.

Sweet, those look very cool too. A couple more questions: Can you install the 6501 tweeter in the center of the grill? Also, those coaxials seem like an awesome deal. Can you tell that they distort much sooner than the components? Again, volume is my main concern. I have 2 clarion coaxials that came on 1999 mastercrafts and they distort very quickly (ugh). My whole reason for getting new ones would be to avoid this. Since you have components and coaxials, how do they compare to one another? Can I crank up those coaxials without crackling? Thanks for your help!

Kyle
05-14-2010, 02:32 AM
rivermc
Everyone wants to run a system without spending a lot of money. I have been there and done that and was never satisfied, as I have installed 4 systems in my boat. Each time I upgraded cost woud rise. Now I have a nice system that has cost a lot but now 2 times what it would have been if I just spent the money on what I have from the begining. If you are wanting your system not to crackle, distort, clip, etc and have a very loud boat, then you need to buy quality speekers and amps, and good wire. There is a reason why the JL 7.7 are about 500 for the pair. Its cause they are good and are designed not to do thoes things. It is very hard to make a boat sound clear without spending a ton of money. Inside a vehicle it is inside an inclosure, where a boat is outside in open air. In my opinion trying to install an afordable system and wanting it to boom is like craming 10lbs into a 2lb sack. Its just not going to be what you want. If budget is key for you then I would try to stay on budget and do the best with what you have got to work with and just understand that there is always someone who is going to be louder. I installed my system myself to save money and know it was done right. If you could install yours and save a little then you could buy a better speaker instead of money on labor hours. I am not trying to be rude but not spending a lot and wanting very loud really dont go together. If it did everyone would be doing it. As for as coax vs component the JL coax have the tweeter in the grill. The mid driver does not have a hole cut out in the center of the cone for the bracket for the tweet. This makes it loud like the components without having to cut extra holes in your interior. If you are looking strictly based on price you can even put a non marine speaker in it to cut cost. I would just make sure that the boat is not stored outside in the weather.

east tx skier
05-14-2010, 01:46 PM
Sweet, those look very cool too. A couple more questions: Can you install the 6501 tweeter in the center of the grill? Also, those coaxials seem like an awesome deal. Can you tell that they distort much sooner than the components? Again, volume is my main concern. I have 2 clarion coaxials that came on 1999 mastercrafts and they distort very quickly (ugh). My whole reason for getting new ones would be to avoid this. Since you have components and coaxials, how do they compare to one another? Can I crank up those coaxials without crackling? Thanks for your help!

Neither of the speaker sets in my boat distort at 75% volume on the head unit. I'm usually at about 50% when it is too loud for my wife and I am instructed to turn it down. The reason the coax are not distorting any sooner than the components is because I have them adjusted differently, if only slightly, on the amp. The 6501's have a higher rms power rating 10--100 watts) than the 651's (6--60 watts). I'm only shooting 50 watts per channel at them. So I see your point. But I'm not even close to max on my amp for these speakers. Maybe my ears are too sensitive.

Started with all amp levels at 0. Turned head unit up to 75%. Increased input level on the amp for the fronts up until they distorted, then backed it of slowly until the distortion went away. I did the same for the rears and then adjusted the sub the same. I have two sets of controls for tweaking the sub level at the dash.


I don't think there is a way to mount the tweeters center on the 6501's. At that point, I would just go with the coaxials.

Speaking of speakers, I am working on a pod to use to relocate the driver's side front speaker on my boat. The stock location is on the kick panel so high that it fires into the rear of the helm. New location will be under the throttle pointed at my head. Should be quite an improvement. I'll post pics of the project if and when it turns out (this is my first speaker pod).

sixysixss
05-14-2010, 02:14 PM
If your head unit space is double din size, then it most likely came with a Clarion CMD model head unit. I just upgraded my Clarion head unit from a CMD4 to a CMD6. The CMD6 lets you control iPod and other USB media directly. The CMD4 will let you plug in the iPod via AUX cables and control music from the iPod. Depends on what you're looking for feature-wise and what you're willing to spend. If your interested in a used CMD4, wired remote and extension cable, PM me. I'll be putting it in the marketplace and on fleabay soon.

EarmarkMarine
05-14-2010, 02:17 PM
The differences in coaxials versus components will vary by brand but here are a few of the typical differences with components:

* Continuous midbass cone without a tweeter pole piece which means more surface area and superior midbass.
* From a 3/4" to a 1" tweeter, lower resonance, greater power handling, better vocals.
* Multiple and/or symmetrical high and lowpass passive crossover for a smoother transition but also with greater insertion loss. So this may mean a little less efficiency in exchange for a more coherent sound.
* Larger midbass voice coil. This may trade a little sensitivity for improved power handling. A larger motor structure to offset the larger voice coil and to recover lost sensitivity. Otherwise a larger magnet has nothing to do with power handling.
* The ability to locate the tweeter higher or in a more advantageous position. However there are limits to how far you can separate a tweeter before it becomes too dominant or ruins the coherency with the midbass driver. You have more vertical latitude but horizontal separation should be restricted to just a few inches.
* Some coaxials like the JL Audio marine will share many of the separate component attributes. For example, a grill/bridge mounted tweeter with a continuous midbass cone.

If a system is correctly designed and executed (balanced, installed, tuned) and the tone controls aren't abused, you should never hear speaker distortion until it occurs simultaneously with the compression caused by running out of supply voltage, source gain and amplifier power. If the foundation isn't right you'll never be able to truely overcome the fundamental problems with better equipment or equalization. Issues like a lack of speaker front-to-rear acoustic isolation or inefficient tuning (treating the boat like a car) can never be completely overcome.

David
Earmark Marine

east tx skier
05-14-2010, 03:22 PM
David, you mentioned "front-to-rear" acoustic isolation in our email exchange. Since you mentioned it here, would you mind explaining or elaborating on that and how it is achieved. Sorry if I'm missing something obvious.

EarmarkMarine
05-14-2010, 05:07 PM
east tx skier,

Don't mind at all. Acoustics is a favorite subject and most will gain something from this.

Here would be a few of the more basic acoustic isolation issues and how they manifest but first here is what happens with every speaker.

As a speaker moves outward in response to a positive voltage, simultaneous a speaker is moving inward on the opposing rear side. So while a speaker is compressing air (more dense) in the front it is rarifying air (less dense) in the rear. In other words, we're pushing out front and pulling to the rear. When these energies meet they cancel and particularly at lower frequencies with longer waveforms.

This problem can be applied to fullrange speakers that are mounted in a bolster at the edge of an open coaming pocket, or an infinite baffle (free-air) subwoofer that is mounted to a kick panel under the helm that is open over the top. Similar priciples can also affect a fullrange or highpass coaxial that is mounted in the same locker or compartment as an infinite baffle subwoofer.

One concern with cancellation effects caused by phasing issues or acoustic isolation issues is that equalization as an attempted correction will create even greater problems. The fix can be more harmful than the initial cause. For example, it might take 12dB of boost to only get 3dB of correction for an inherent phase/cancellation issue. That alone is enough to sap the dynamic range out of any system. Its like trying to whistle in a hurricane.

David

shunra
05-14-2010, 06:54 PM
David,

Any suggestions on how to combat phase cancelation problems. I have suspected for some time that I have some phase cancellation at the rear bench seat. It seems like I have more base in the back seat if I run my subwoofer out of phase with the cockpick speakers. My sub faces to the stern from under the drivers feet. There is a 6.5 component speaker facing towards the bow in the back bench.

east tx skier
05-14-2010, 06:55 PM
Okay, so isolating a speaker front and rear. Isolating it from the rear seems easy enough, i.e., put it in a pod, enclosure or, like many of the boats, in a coaming pad near the gunnel, right? How are we isolating in the front?

What you said makes sense about sound waves canceling one another out. I'm just trying to see what you are saying to do to achieve acoustic isolation in both the front and the rear. Does that basically mean not having one speaker pointed directly at another at x distance? For instance, in my boat, both rear speakers are in the coaming pads aiming, generally at one another. The reality is that they are not lined up 100% with one another, but pretty close. I don't notice any phase cancellation issues.

mccobmd
05-14-2010, 07:37 PM
:huh:Man, I think this is giving me a bigger headache than some of the stuff JF comes up with. David has me burning up wikipedia to try to figure it out and I have a doctorate (obviously not in Physics)

east tx skier
05-14-2010, 11:27 PM
You think you have a headache, my garage stinks of resin right now. First coat went on the speaker pod tonight. It's looking good so far. Pics to follow.

Kyle
05-15-2010, 06:31 AM
You think you have a headache, my garage stinks of resin right now. First coat went on the speaker pod tonight. It's looking good so far. Pics to follow.

Come on Eastie...... I would love to be in your garage having some cold drinks watchin or (smelling) the resin dry...... Love that smell. I cant wait to see what you have built and you need to show pics. I have made many speaker inclosures and my favorite part is the fiberglass resin part and a couple of beers.

Boater_C
05-15-2010, 09:35 PM
Which head unit do you have? I'm trying to shop for one that will fit, and give me an Aux or USB input to play my Zune HD.

Sorry for the delay. I use just a basic Kenwood with a built-in USB connector. I am convinced it's the speakers that makes the stereo sound so good. Will buy better head unit and amp next year (spent too much this year on speakers, and other stuff). :D

tex
05-15-2010, 11:06 PM
Get one!!!!!!!!

east tx skier
05-15-2010, 11:19 PM
Come on Eastie...... I would love to be in your garage having some cold drinks watchin or (smelling) the resin dry...... Love that smell. I cant wait to see what you have built and you need to show pics. I have made many speaker [e]nclosures and my favorite part is the fiberglass resin part and a couple of beers.

Pictures to follow. Looking good so far.

EarmarkMarine
05-17-2010, 04:24 PM
I meant to convery that individual speakers need to be acoustically isolated between their own front and rear radiation.

Here's another parable. Imagine a woofer mounted to a small single panel without the six-sided enclosure. It would not have any bass to speak of and would be prone to over, uncontrolled excursions. Thus, the energy gets cancelled.

Another example of a different isolation issue would be if a woofer and midrange (open-back type) shared the same sealed enclosure. The woofer and midrange are playing different bandwidths so they need to be acoustically isolated. Otherwise the powerful woofer would seriously modulate the smaller speaker. The smaller speaker becoems a sympathetic radiator to the dominant woofer resulting in loads of midbass and midrange distortion.

The best way to isolate speakers is to use a rigid pod (not soft and compliant foam). Its an easy fix. However, do not apply a fix where an issue does not exist. Coaxial speakers are inherently free-air/infinite-baffle for large gunnel cavities, doors, trunks, etc. They're designed to function in the compliant air mass of a large compartment. Tightly enclosing a free-air speaker will raise its resonance and create a more pronounced midbass roll-off... But the overall output and power handling will significantly improve as compared to a completely undamped and unisolated application which acts as an acoustic short circuit. Bottom line? Only fix those applications in need and do not apply this technique universally.

In my previous post I wasn't referencing phase alignment issues relating to how similar speakers sum and subtract. That is a far more complex issue and one that you may or may not have any control over depending on the boat. But, the really significant phasing issues are predictable and are generally avoidable through good system planning. While its very circumstantial, generally you do not get too concerned with the higher frequencies with shorter wavelengths. As the bandwidth changes the energy is dispersed differently and to some degree we even percieve these frequencies differently. Maybe this is a topic for another thread that really should come under the heading of system tuning.

David
Earmark Marine

east tx skier
05-17-2010, 04:55 PM
Thanks, David. That clears it up perfectly.

In my situation, as you know, (not to threadjack too much), I have a coaxial speaker at the top of a kick panel (stock location). It is not isolated and has a sealed sub enclosure right behind it firing sideways. It also is firing into the underside of the healm.

So, under your second scenario above, this speaker qualifies for putting it in a rigid sealed pod, even though the pod is undersized for the speaker. With its being undersized, would you suggest polyfill in the pod?

Here's a bad cell phone picture. It's not pretty by any means, but it is currently being covered with with matching carpet and doesn't need to be attractive underneath. :)

If anything, imaging is much improved with it mounted to the side of the hull just in front of the driver.

nmcjr
05-17-2010, 09:11 PM
A few notes based upon my experience/opinion/listening preferences:

Building on what was mentioned earlier, it will be better to do it right once rather than cutting corners and spending 2-3X the money in the long term. So, I would focus on what is important and do that right first, if you can't bite off the whole thing. For me, the sub and the tower speakers was the most important.

That said, if you are going to go with tower speakers, I would go the HLCD type, Bullet is my choice on that. You will be amazed at how much two of those will fill the cabin too, so I might start there rather than in the cabin since those will fill the cabin, but not the other way around. I barely have my cabin speakers turned up anyway. You must power these (and any speakers for that matter) adequately, and while this costs more money its a non-negotiable in stereo installation. Underpowered speakers are a waste.

For the cabin speakers I think most will agree that JL are the best choice, but as I said above, cabin speakers aren't that important to me, so you may not need the best here. I have just kept the stock Clarions and will until they blow.

As to the sub. I think it is best to have a custom box built and not mess around with the free air type. Boston makes a great 12" that doesn't require a lot of power or a large box to really thump. I prefer a 12 over a 10.

For amps I went with the JL HD series amps. They put out a ton of power and are very efficient, which helps with battery run time on the beach as well as alternator draw. I tried to design everything to be as efficient as possible since this is more of an issue on a boat. This drove my choice of sub as well as amps.

You will probably want to look at a 2nd battery, perhaps one designed for stereos that has a large A-H capacity and an isolator so it doesn't draw off the starting battery when the engine is off. I used the Blue Seas, but there are others. I also did a Guest built in 2-channel charger, so at home all I have to do is pull the cord from the ceiling and plug it in. Keeping batteries full makes them last longer.

Finally, I am pretty good mechanically/electrically and was originally going to do this myself, but I found a stereo shop knowledgable on boats and had them give me a quote. I was surprsed at how little they charged me for labor and their prices on equipment was as good as I could find anywhere--definately beating the big name retailers. So, you may want to consider that as an option if there is a good shop around. They charged me about 5 hours labor for what would have taken me multiple weekends and it came out great.

EarmarkMarine
05-18-2010, 02:43 PM
Polyester fiber can be used and should be packed loosely. We use it in every tower pod installation.

Btw, for behind the bolster or interior compartment applications we have the injection-molded pods ready to install for $19.99.

It will depend on the boat and access, but in some cases a simple partition inside the gunnel can be just as effective in creating isolation while maintaining an infinite baffle for the coaxial speaker.

David
Earmark Marine

east tx skier
05-18-2010, 03:54 PM
Got it back from being carpeted. Local dealer had matching scrap pieces that I was able to use. So worth the $20 not to have to deal with carpeting all of those contours. Fabbing the mounting plate tonight and should have it installed in the next day or so. Had that done the other day, but my bolts were too short.

RiverMC197
05-18-2010, 05:52 PM
Polyester fiber can be used and should be packed loosely. We use it in every tower pod installation.

Btw, for behind the bolster or interior compartment applications we have the injection-molded pods ready to install for $19.99.

It will depend on the boat and access, but in some cases a simple partition inside the gunnel can be just as effective in creating isolation while maintaining an infinite baffle for the coaxial speaker.

David
Earmark Marine

I have 2 speakers in my bow mounted on the wall of the storage compartment (where your feet are). Would this be a good place to use the pods you make?

EarmarkMarine
05-18-2010, 08:01 PM
River,

Is that panel relatively sealed up or open over the top in close proximity to the speakers?

Is there a subwoofer enclosure directly behind the panel containing post pics of the panel, speakers and any perimeter openings. It will be clear from the pics.

David
Earmark Marine

FoggyNogginz
05-18-2010, 09:55 PM
I love the Polk DB651s as well, and bought six on Ebay for $50 each. Strongly recommended! If you are looking for white speakers to colormatch, then I have also installed several Infinity 602M speakers with great luck as well.

I went with the Infinity 6000M Tower speakers from Ebay too because I got a good deal ($120 for two), and they work really well. Sticking with marine speakers and subs is important in my opinion, but I have used several non-marine decks in older boats just fine since I am not in salt water and the unit stays dry.

Personally, I am not a fan of Clarion at all (their speakers seem like junk to me), but their head units and remotes are okay and there are not too many alternatives for the water sealed remotes. They just seem waay overpriced for what you get, but that's marine life! ;-)

Latetowork
05-18-2010, 11:04 PM
I have it narrowed down to a Clarion M309 HU. JL cockpit speakers (6.5's so I don't have to cut) and the JL sub. When my boat gets out of the shop I'll measure size of the sub and order stuff. The better half doesn't want me to take up space with a box for the sub, so we'll be using the original hole for the sub under the dash.

Going to narrow down the amps and then think about the tower speakers. May need to do that second (but at least the wires are already ran in the boat for that) in a month or two.

Things got put on hold for now after the initial stuff. I just bought a new garage for my boat and have to get paper work finished. The garage is awesome though. Apparently there is a house attached and a lawn mower that comes with it the po was willing to throw in :D.....

nmcjr
05-19-2010, 12:51 AM
Just one more thing to think about is that you can build a box for the sub in the original location behind the driver's kick panel under the dash, so you don't have to use up any additional space. That is what I did with mine.

RiverMC197
05-19-2010, 04:25 PM
River,

Is that panel relatively sealed up or open over the top in close proximity to the speakers?

Is there a subwoofer enclosure directly behind the panel containing post pics of the panel, speakers and any perimeter openings. It will be clear from the pics.

David
Earmark Marine

The bow seat cushions are directly about the speaker, so I think it is sealed pretty well. probably has about 6-10 inches behind it and only a couple of inches above and beneath.

east tx skier
05-20-2010, 01:27 AM
Come on Eastie...... I would love to be in your garage having some cold drinks watchin or (smelling) the resin dry...... Love that smell. I cant wait to see what you have built and you need to show pics. I have made many speaker inclosures and my favorite part is the fiberglass resin part and a couple of beers.

Okay, you asked for it. The putty form is above. Here is the quick project timeline. The whole thing is chronicled on another more appropriate forum for this brand of boat. Sorry for the threadjack...and the images of another boat brand (not promoting the brand). Just showing stereo ideas applicable across brands.

Here's the frame.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_1gl9obJSimU/S_SpBkq-UXI/AAAAAAAAC7Q/ui5fl8T8GdA/s912/Frame%201.JPG

Resin
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_1gl9obJSimU/S_SpCCoy7NI/AAAAAAAAC7Y/d3fuRz7OIRk/s640/1%20coat%20of%20resin.jpg

Putty form - see above

Mounting
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_1gl9obJSimU/S_SpCtb2IPI/AAAAAAAAC7g/9f9ARexFAL4/s1152/100_1717.JPG

Finished Project


http://lh5.ggpht.com/_1gl9obJSimU/S_SsSxCZ5WI/AAAAAAAAC8Y/je_kSCV8EXs/s1152/100_1729.JPG

RiverMC197
05-20-2010, 01:47 AM
Nice work ETS, looks factory. You must have quite a garage! Seeing those db651's mounted in a boat really makes me want to spring for a pair.

east tx skier
05-20-2010, 09:41 AM
Thanks. My garage is quite a mess actually. Tonight, things get put away. Right now, it is a disaster.

Latetowork
06-27-2010, 08:30 AM
Follow up on this.

I had Shane at Divine Marine do an install for us. Met him at the Seattle boat show, and it looked like he did good work. I was going to do everything myself, but got to the point where I was traveling, and there was a bunch of clean up needed on the wire work.

Stuff:

On the tower a pair of Wet Sounds pro 60's
Clarion M-309 head unit
10 in ID Q D4 sub
two Kenwood amps
JL 6.5 Coaxial speakers in the cab.

Shane replaced the kick panel under the dash with a Fiberglass box painted to match the gel coat. Looks clean (according to the wife) and should sound great. Will post pics when I get back from my trip.

Thanks for the advice from everyone, and thanks to Shane for doing the work.

www.divinemarine.com