Older Boat Lift Conversion

[sberry3827]

I have an older Great Lakes lift that my father in law used for his Hydrostream. It doesn't have full length bunks, just bunk pads at the front and rear cross beams. I want to covert it for my 1985 mc but the marina wants close to $500 for the full aluminum bunks and brackets. Does anyone know a cheaper way to do this conversion? It seems like a very simple project, i just cant imagine spending $500 for bunks when I'm seeing lifts with lift motors for 1000 - 2000 on craigslist all day long. Any input is appreciated.

[Jim@BAWS]

I have an older Great Lakes lift that my father in law used for his Hydrostream. It doesn't have full length bunks, just bunk pads at the front and rear cross beams. I want to covert it for my 1985 mc but the marina wants close to $500 for the full aluminum bunks and brackets. Does anyone know a cheaper way to do this conversion? It seems like a very simple project, i just cant imagine spending $500 for bunks when I'm seeing lifts with lift motors for 1000 - 2000 on craigslist all day long. Any input is appreciated.


CRAIGSLIST vs a RETAIL location??? Does that $500 include install. That sounds like
a good price to get it done including labor and travel to your location!!!

You can go to Home Depot and get 4 2 x10 x 20 and double them up
Place carpet on the top then bolt them to your lift


Jim@BAWS

[sberry3827]

Nope, didn't include install. I've thought about the 2x10 idea, just wasn't sure if it was sufficient. But coming from baws, I'll trust it:) Thanks

[CruisinGA]

Maybe it goes without saying, but I'd do pressure treated 2x10's.

[Jim@BAWS]

Maybe it goes without saying, but I'd do pressure treated 2x10's.


I would agree!!!

That is (2) 2 x 10s x 12 or 16 in length fastened together. That is what is on my lift at
home for my PS 190 1996

Hope that helps

Jim@BAWS

[MariStar-Man]

I would agree!!!

That is (2) 2 x 10s x 12 or 16 in length fastened together. That is what is on my lift at
home for my PS 190 1996

Hope that helps

Jim@BAWS



Interesting...

[Ben]

I have an older Great Lakes lift that my father in law used for his Hydrostream. It doesn't have full length bunks, just bunk pads at the front and rear cross beams. I want to covert it for my 1985 mc but the marina wants close to $500 for the full aluminum bunks and brackets. Does anyone know a cheaper way to do this conversion? It seems like a very simple project, i just cant imagine spending $500 for bunks when I'm seeing lifts with lift motors for 1000 - 2000 on craigslist all day long. Any input is appreciated.

I used to have an old shoremaster that came with my house, same issue. I bought a bracket kit for like $120, added 2 ten foot 2x6s and bunk carpet and was set. Maybe you can by the brackets from Great Lakes. If not, a hoist dealer can help if you tell the the size of the crossbars on the cradle. Pm me if you want more info or want to talk.

[barefoot]

I made them myself. I picked up all the hardware, wood, and carpet for less then $100 at HD. I made the brackets and bunks. I used a pattern from another inboard setup and went to work.

I used metal framing channel (http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Electrical-Boxes-Conduit-Fittings/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xl5Zbm4m/R-100156509/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053), pressure treated wood (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xl5/R-100042328/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053), L-shaped brackets to attach the bunks, and all the hardware.

Couple of suggestions: use stainless steel screws and staples. It goes without saying, but they won't rust. And use pressure treated wood. Also, use the trailer as your pattern for mounting the bunks on the lift.

I'll see if I can post some pics of mine before it gets in the water.

[ProStar190Fan]

Built mine with 4 2x10's and marine carpet over it, works great. Make sure to read the manual it will tell you how many square inches you need touching the hull to prevent hull damage.

[JohnnyB]

I made them myself. I picked up all the hardware, wood, and carpet for less then $100 at HD. I made the brackets and bunks. I used a pattern from another inboard setup and went to work.

I used metal framing channel (http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Electrical-Boxes-Conduit-Fittings/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xl5Zbm4m/R-100156509/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053), pressure treated wood (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xl5/R-100042328/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053), L-shaped brackets to attach the bunks, and all the hardware.

Couple of suggestions: use stainless steel screws and staples. It goes without saying, but they won't rust. And use pressure treated wood. Also, use the trailer as your pattern for mounting the bunks on the lift.

I'll see if I can post some pics of mine before it gets in the water.


Load bearing capacity???

Depending on how you fabricated it, I'd be concerned about how much weight 12 guage can handle....thoughts anyone?

[JohnnyB]

I'll snap some pics of mine when I get a chance. They're made of 1.5" x 1.5" x 0.5" 6061T6 Aluminum. I made them to stand off enough that the running fins/prop could clear the cross pieces....going to lower them so just the fins clear.

[barefoot]

I'm not worried. My guess is that the bunks are distibuting most of the weight. Those framing channels are ment to hold weight...I'm no engineer, but each of those should be able to support 1,000 pounds

[Barefooter92]

Strut material is very stout. We calculate a double strut to hold 5000# of pipe. I will have to check the catalog but this is a very safe application. Powerstrut, unistrut, or b-line are some brand names. I am having trouble finding shorestation parts for my lift and now thinking strut is my best option.

[sberry3827]

Sorry for my lack of posting on the thread I started. I've been keeping an eye on it though. I should be making it to the cottage soon and digging the boat out of the pole barn. I'd love to see some pics of the setups you guys are speaking of. I'll be getting into this project soon and your ideas are great, just trying to get a clear picture before I start. Thanks all!!

[Barefooter92]

I am getting ready to build my shorestation to match my boat, which is still in storage. Can anyone help me with the clearance required to miss all the running gear? I want the bunks high enough to miss the cradle. I have the flat bottom aluminum cradle. If I stay 24" above the cradle will I be okay? Can I go less than that?

I also have many parts from my two shorestations:
3,600# wench
4' wheel
motor stop
2 sets of v- bunks with new redwood
1 set of foam guides
1 shoulder bolt

If anyone is interested let me know.

[jmhjgh]

I have done the double 2x12 with a bevel to match the hull along with carpet. I would not use this solution again, because the wood bunks caused the movable portion of the lift (ours was a cantilver lift) to float. Each time we would have to stand on the lift before floating the boat on the lift. I have seen aluminum bunks with a rubber or plastic top in Minnesota for ~$300.

[CruisinGA]

I have done the double 2x12 with a bevel to match the hull along with carpet. I would not use this solution again, because the wood bunks caused the movable portion of the lift (ours was a cantilver lift) to float. Each time we would have to stand on the lift before floating the boat on the lift. I have seen aluminum bunks with a rubber or plastic top in Minnesota for ~$300.

Add some weight...

[Ben]

Sorry for my lack of posting on the thread I started. I've been keeping an eye on it though. I should be making it to the cottage soon and digging the boat out of the pole barn. I'd love to see some pics of the setups you guys are speaking of. I'll be getting into this project soon and your ideas are great, just trying to get a clear picture before I start. Thanks all!!

I don't have a great pic since I sold the hoist, but here you can see the bracket that slides over & clamps to the crossbar. There is a vertical box tube inside the bracket that allows height adjustment. Then there is a 3rd piece on the top (can't really see) that the bunks mount to that allows the bunks to pivot to match the hull. It is kind of a downward facing c-channel with bolts thru it in the direction of the boat lengthwise. 4 of these were like $120. Then add 2 ten foot 2x6's, bunk carpet and good to go.

[Ben]

I am getting ready to build my shorestation to match my boat, which is still in storage. Can anyone help me with the clearance required to miss all the running gear? I want the bunks high enough to miss the cradle. I have the flat bottom aluminum cradle. If I stay 24" above the cradle will I be okay? Can I go less than that?

I also have many parts from my two shorestations:
3,600# wench
4' wheel
motor stop
2 sets of v- bunks with new redwood
1 set of foam guides
1 shoulder bolt

If anyone is interested let me know.

My hull is probably a bit different, it's a '94. However, I have my front bunks 42" apart and 44" at the rear. My trailer is 23-1/2" at the front and 43-1/2" at the rear. I went wider in front so I would keep away from the strakes and so I didn't have to twist the bunk boards too much.

Anyway, at 42" front spacing, the center of the bottom of the 2x6 bunk needs to be 7-1/2" above the top of the crosstube. Another measurement I had was 8" from the top of the lower inside edge of the bunk to the crossbar, with the bunk at an angle, this may sound confusing. If you start at 10 or 12" to check, you should be able to measure and adjust from there. Be sure you have a rubber pad in the middle of the crosstube in the odd event the bunks are wrong and you pick up the boat via hull.

Side note - the shaft & prop are way behind the hoist cradle, so you don't need to clear that. Just the bottom of the hull to the crossbar. FYI, I line up the top edge of the observer seat to the post as my fore/aft indicator.

Either way, you can go much lower than 24", especially if you go in at the front to match your trailer which I'm sure everyone will suggest. I am in shallow water, so I wanted to be as low as possible.

I wish I knew about your guides prior to having my old set modified. Although that only cost me about $12 for some aluminum and a case of beer to have welded... Why are you not using those? I prefer these to the sideboards as they make it easier to wipe the boat down.

[Barefooter92]

My hull is probably a bit different, it's a '94. However, I have my front bunks 42" apart and 44" at the rear. My trailer is 23-1/2" at the front and 43-1/2" at the rear. I went wider in front so I would keep away from the strakes and so I didn't have to twist the bunk boards too much.

Anyway, at 42" front spacing, the center of the bottom of the 2x6 bunk needs to be 7-1/2" above the top of the crosstube. Another measurement I had was 8" from the top of the lower inside edge of the bunk to the crossbar, with the bunk at an angle, this may sound confusing. If you start at 10 or 12" to check, you should be able to measure and adjust from there. Be sure you have a rubber pad in the middle of the crosstube in the odd event the bunks are wrong and you pick up the boat via hull.

Side note - the shaft & prop are way behind the hoist cradle, so you don't need to clear that. Just the bottom of the hull to the crossbar. FYI, I line up the top edge of the observer seat to the post as my fore/aft indicator.

Either way, you can go much lower than 24", especially if you go in at the front to match your trailer which I'm sure everyone will suggest. I am in shallow water, so I wanted to be as low as possible.

I wish I knew about your guides prior to having my old set modified. Although that only cost me about $12 for some aluminum and a case of beer to have welded... Why are you not using those? I prefer these to the sideboards as they make it easier to wipe the boat down.

I was not going use the foam guides because of the 24" I planned on using for height I would have been too high to make them work. I may use them now if I only go 7-8". My '97 is a bit deeper than your '94 but thanks for all the help. My idea with clearing the prop and rudder is in the event someone comes in too hot and over shoots the lift. I would minimize my damage that way. I like the idea of tapering the bunks that may wedge the boat from going over.

Thanks for the help. I have sketched up some stainless supports to hold 2x material for the length of the hull similar to the trailer. I will post some pictures when I get it installed and all troubleshooting ironed out.

[Ben]

Not sure if you set it up yet, but for the concern of overshooting, hopefully when you get the lift in and set when it is lowered there will be at least a few additional inches below btw the bottom of the hull & the bunks. This would therefore add more distance from the center of the crossbar to the prop / rudder. Hope that makes sense.

I'll try to remember to snap some pics when I get my boat on (may not be for 2-3 more wks - got other projects underway & weather is crappy).

[sberry3827]

Thanks for the input Ben. What lake are you on in Michigan?

[SWeaver]

Hey guys,
What brackets have guys used to attach the doubled 2x10 bunks to the crossbars? Have they been made or bought-and where if bought?

Mine is for a 1987 prostar and a shorestation vertical lift (had those paddle things on it).

Thanks!
Steve