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hz900
03-30-2010, 12:53 PM
'92 Prostar 205

Just rebuilt the transmission and got it back in. Can someone tell me how much transmission fluid these are supposed to hold.

Also I know that you are not supposed to run the boat in gear in the driveway because of the prop shaft. But if I leave the shaft unhooked from the rear of the transmission is there any other reason not to run it in the driveway for testing?

JMann
03-30-2010, 02:39 PM
What transmission do you have? In my 91 the manual says 2 quarts, but I have the 1:1 velvet (I believe it's called).

Kyle
03-30-2010, 02:52 PM
My BW Velvet drive book shows i f you have a 1:1 you put in 2 quarts and if you have a power slot 1.5:1 you should add 2.5 quarts.

Either transmission I would add the specified amount start boat run for a min and recheck it without the engine running. If you are a little low just add a little.

I have a slot and I believe that I put 3 in mine when I rebuilt my transmission. I think the book says 2.5 because if you are changing the fluid, it is impossable to get the .5 quart out of the reduction gear case because of the angle it sits.

I added 2.5 and checked it until it showed full on the dip stick and I am almost positive I added the other .5 quart.

Kyle
03-30-2010, 02:57 PM
If the shaft is not hooked up to the back of the transmission and you want to run it on the fake a lake in the driveway you are going to be fine. I would wrap the prop in an old towel so it wont bang on the rudder. The reason you dont want to run out of water and in gear is for the strut bushings and the rope packing having no lubrication or water helping cool them.

Now I would not just put the transmission in gear and romp on it. But you can put it in gear and run about 1200 rpm to see if it will go into gear both ways.

hz900
03-30-2010, 05:01 PM
If the shaft is not hooked up to the back of the transmission and you want to run it on the fake a lake in the driveway you are going to be fine. I would wrap the prop in an old towel so it wont bang on the rudder. The reason you dont want to run out of water and in gear is for the strut bushings and the rope packing having no lubrication or water helping cool them.

Now I would not just put the transmission in gear and romp on it. But you can put it in gear and run about 1200 rpm to see if it will go into gear both ways.

Thanks for the info, thats what I was looking for. I had to rebuild it because it got quite a bit of water in it and I could never get it all out. I also think it was leaking out of the Rear seal. I did initially change the trans cooler because that is the usual culprit but I think it was also taking in water from the rear seal because I was getting water in the bilge which is now mostly fixed. The water caused the cluches, in particular the reverse, to burn up and it starting slipping pretty bad at the end of last season.

Wish me luck, this is the first transmission I have done. I took my time, went by the manual, and made double sure to keep everything clean.

BTW I have the BW 1:1 Velvet drive in mine.