MattsCraft
03-21-2010, 03:41 PM
Supplies I used:
From http://www.superbrightleds.com/
7 - 3 Pod L.E.D. - ALM-x3 Blue - Cockpit & Front Cup Holders
2 - 4 Pod L.E.D. - ALM-x4 Blue - Mounted Under Helm
From http://www.oznium.com/flexible-tri-chip-ribbon-leds
2 - Tri-Chip Ultra-Flex Waterproof Strip Blue - Mounted above Rear Cup Holders
Note: I played with the placement on these, they are very bright, I found that putting them facing toward the outside of the boat toward the carpet gave the best effect.
From http://www.wiringproducts.com/
100' Parallel 18 Gauge / 2 Conductor
100' 1/4'' Polyethylene Black Slit Loom
100 - 22-18 ga. Butt Splice
(ordered extra for future Use)
All wire runs were completed using wire loom!
3M Molding Tape
All of the Super Bright L.E.D.'s have the wire routed out of the top of the pod, to get a seamless (No Wire showing) install you have to take them apart and drill a hole (5/32") to re-route the wire. (See Photo #1) The L.E.D.’s are actually silicone caulked into the back of the pod, so in reality you are going to drill the front and mount the pods backwards. They are so small, no one will be able to tell the difference except me and you.
Important Note: Be sure to order at least one more pod than your application, having the wire come out of the top is a nice to have for checking your alignment. (See Photo #2)
Now you are ready to mark and drill your holes (5/32") for mounting. I used painters masking tape, seemed to stick pretty well to the gel coat.
Important Note: Be sure to measure each pod for each location as your hole/wire location for each pod will probably be slightly different. (See Inset Photo #2) Also, be sure to place masking tape over your drill hole spot so the gel coat does not crack when drilling. Before drilling, tape your EXTRA pod in place to make sure you are happy with where the light hits. I simply ran a wire from the battery to the pod for temporary power. Measure Thrice!!!
Clean the area, apply 2 small strips (3/8”) of 3M molding tape to the back of the pod, feed the wire through the hole and stick in place. I did not screw in each pod; the tape seems to hold real well. Time will tell, if they come loose I have stainless #4x3/4” screws if needed. Hard to find locally, I ordered them from Bolt Depot!
I ran a separate line for each pod in wire loom. I disconnected the factory courtesy light fore and aft and made my connections there, this way all of the lights are on the same switch as the underwater lights. (All of the rears run to the rear light, dash and fronts run to the forward light.
And the final result, looks fantastic in person, photos just do not do it justice! For me one key is the entire deck is under a nice blue glow and none of the lights are blinding, so it should be fine while under way at night.
PM me if you have any questions!
From http://www.superbrightleds.com/
7 - 3 Pod L.E.D. - ALM-x3 Blue - Cockpit & Front Cup Holders
2 - 4 Pod L.E.D. - ALM-x4 Blue - Mounted Under Helm
From http://www.oznium.com/flexible-tri-chip-ribbon-leds
2 - Tri-Chip Ultra-Flex Waterproof Strip Blue - Mounted above Rear Cup Holders
Note: I played with the placement on these, they are very bright, I found that putting them facing toward the outside of the boat toward the carpet gave the best effect.
From http://www.wiringproducts.com/
100' Parallel 18 Gauge / 2 Conductor
100' 1/4'' Polyethylene Black Slit Loom
100 - 22-18 ga. Butt Splice
(ordered extra for future Use)
All wire runs were completed using wire loom!
3M Molding Tape
All of the Super Bright L.E.D.'s have the wire routed out of the top of the pod, to get a seamless (No Wire showing) install you have to take them apart and drill a hole (5/32") to re-route the wire. (See Photo #1) The L.E.D.’s are actually silicone caulked into the back of the pod, so in reality you are going to drill the front and mount the pods backwards. They are so small, no one will be able to tell the difference except me and you.
Important Note: Be sure to order at least one more pod than your application, having the wire come out of the top is a nice to have for checking your alignment. (See Photo #2)
Now you are ready to mark and drill your holes (5/32") for mounting. I used painters masking tape, seemed to stick pretty well to the gel coat.
Important Note: Be sure to measure each pod for each location as your hole/wire location for each pod will probably be slightly different. (See Inset Photo #2) Also, be sure to place masking tape over your drill hole spot so the gel coat does not crack when drilling. Before drilling, tape your EXTRA pod in place to make sure you are happy with where the light hits. I simply ran a wire from the battery to the pod for temporary power. Measure Thrice!!!
Clean the area, apply 2 small strips (3/8”) of 3M molding tape to the back of the pod, feed the wire through the hole and stick in place. I did not screw in each pod; the tape seems to hold real well. Time will tell, if they come loose I have stainless #4x3/4” screws if needed. Hard to find locally, I ordered them from Bolt Depot!
I ran a separate line for each pod in wire loom. I disconnected the factory courtesy light fore and aft and made my connections there, this way all of the lights are on the same switch as the underwater lights. (All of the rears run to the rear light, dash and fronts run to the forward light.
And the final result, looks fantastic in person, photos just do not do it justice! For me one key is the entire deck is under a nice blue glow and none of the lights are blinding, so it should be fine while under way at night.
PM me if you have any questions!