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captain planet
03-01-2010, 09:17 AM
So yesterday my wife was out and got hit by some kid in a Honda Accord. He rear ended the Suburban going about 20 mph or so. My wife is fine and my kids weren't in the truck so no harm done. The Honda was undrivable after the accident but the Suburban barely has any noticable damage at all. The bumper is tilted a little down and the trailer light plug is a bit bent, that's about it.

So I climbed under the truck last night after my wife got home to look at the damage. The insurance company has already called to schedule the truck to go and be inspected. Now, by my estimation from what I saw under the truck was I really don't want to settle for anything less than a new bumper and a new receiver. Some of the welds on the receiver look like they may have shifted a little. Realistically, there is no telling what has happened to the welds on the receiver which holds my precious MC when going down the road and I don't want it ending up in some ditch because the weakened weld gave way at 70 mph. There is no body damage that I can see on the truck and I couldn't tell if the frame was bent at all.

Anybody have any other suggestions to look at before the insurance company looks at it? I just don't want to get hosed as this is my tow vehicle which hauls heavy trailers regularly in the fall.

jkski, I know...it's 10 years old and it's time to let go...but it is paid for!!

JimN
03-01-2010, 09:39 AM
Have it checked for alignment- if they don't want to pay for it, insist- trailering a boat needs good alignment. Don't let them stick you with cheap parts or a cheap receiver.

90 Maristar
03-01-2010, 09:57 AM
Same thing happened to me years ago. Also a Honda, it hit the hitch with no visible damage, until you took a real good look. Bent the seat brackets and some other minor things. Check the gas tank for cracks (fill it and look for leaks). I found out after the settlement ($1500) that I had more damage than I thought. Ended up trading in the truck and fully disclosed why I was trading it in. Did not feel it was safe and it was time for a new one. Good luck.

bigmac
03-01-2010, 10:02 AM
You have a right to demand OEM parts. I'd definitely make sure about frame alignment, new hitch assembly, new (not rechromed) bumper.

Jorski
03-01-2010, 10:13 AM
I would make sure that you meet with the adjuster at the body shop to discuss it in detail. On a 10 year old car, they may claim "betterment" meaning that new parts would improve your car beyond the condition it in was in prior to the accident.

Don't be afraid to discuss and negotiate...they may settle for a partial payment of a couple of hundred dollars to go with all new OEM parts; or they may just conceed the point once they see that you are not going to just accept whatever they say...it really depends upon the insurance carrier.

Squeeky wheel gets the oil.;)

captain planet
03-01-2010, 10:26 AM
Thanks for the input. Sounds like I am in for a nightmare. I am going to stand tall on the receiver and bumper issue. It has to be new, period.

90, I never thought about those other issues. Sounds like your Suburban was hit harder than mine, maybe? I'll check those other things tonight.

Jerseydave
03-01-2010, 10:33 AM
It's hard to tell if a frame is bent by the naked eye, the only correct way is to have a body shop put it on a frame bench to check frame alignment.

With that said, I doubt a honda doing 20 could bend your frame so you may just have bent bumper mounting brackets, bent bumper and possibly look for cracks in the welds of the receiver. Drawtite makes a heavy duty 10K lb receiver which is heavier than stock. That's what I had on my 2000 Suburban.

captain planet
03-01-2010, 10:54 AM
It's hard to tell if a frame is bent by the naked eye, the only correct way is to have a body shop put it on a frame bench to check frame alignment.

With that said, I doubt a honda doing 20 could bend your frame so you may just have bent bumper mounting brackets, bent bumper and possibly look for cracks in the welds of the receiver. Drawtite makes a heavy duty 10K lb receiver which is heavier than stock. That's what I had on my 2000 Suburban.

It was dark last night when I was looking under the truck, but I think I saw a few small cracks on some of the welds, which is why I will push for a new receiver.

dtc
03-01-2010, 11:29 AM
Hey, finally an opportunity for me to repay some of the knowledge and experience you passed my way ...

First off, glad to hear that your wife and kids are okay. I was in a similar situation (stopped and rear-ended by a F150 at 40+ mph), which is why I bought, drive, and happily pay the higher fuel bills, on my Tahoe.

My two accidents, both times fault admitted and accepted 100% by the other party, taught me lots about the process the two insurance companies play.

OPEN a medical claim; not so much because she's hurt (although that's the excuse you have to use ... just say she's going to a doctor to get her back, neck, shoulders, checkedout), but because medical is where ALL non-vehicle related claims are paid (think hours lost from work whilst dealing with phone calls, repair shops, to and from, etc). Not saying to stick it to anyone, just have the opportunity to claim anything you are rightfully owed as far as recompense for lost monies, time, cell bills, etc. You can always choose to settle/close it for zero dollars, if you feel that is what you want to do. However at the end of the process, you can not go back at open it to try and claim things you are feeling you are owed.

Secondly, they (both the body shops and the insurance company) will try over and over to fast track you and tell you what/how you can do things (think car dealership sales tactics). I literally had to be a jackhole in order to get them to fix things to my specs (rear-ended by a Ford F150 at 40+ mph, and another time by a minivan at 25+ mph). Both times they tried to tell me that they didn't look at frame alignment and/or transmission, as that's just not part of what goes wrong in a collision. After telling them what I was going to settle for and/or threatening lawyers over many phone conversations, guess what ... finally got the right thing done.

Lastly, as to your Surb' ... check the alignment of the tailgate and glass. It might seems okay now, but after the sun heats things up, it might start catching at the top. Look at the gap alignment all the way around. As already mentioned, fuel system components in the vehicle left rear area. And spare tire mechanism in the center.

I'm sure there are some practicers of the law that are on here and can advise or suggest to you. Mine suggestions are purely from an insured drivers standpoint.

Hope it all works out and that you are safely trailering your boat to happy warm days on the water soon.

thatsmrmastercraft
03-01-2010, 11:39 AM
Another thing that may pop up are fuel pump issues. Some in tank debris can be jarred loose from the impact and cause problems from clogged filter, to knocking the sock filter off the pump (not likely in your case captain), to pump failure.

Hate to add anything to the grey hair / hair pulling process.

captain planet
03-01-2010, 11:45 AM
Hey, finally an opportunity for me to repay some of the knowledge and experience you passed my way ...

First off, glad to hear that your wife and kids are okay. I was in a similar situation (stopped and rear-ended by a F150 at 40+ mph), which is why I bought, drive, and happily pay the higher fuel bills, on my Tahoe.

My two accidents, both times fault admitted and accepted 100% by the other party, taught me lots about the process the two insurance companies play.

OPEN a medical claim; not so much because she's hurt (although that's the excuse you have to use ... just say she's going to a doctor to get her back, neck, shoulders, checkedout), but because medical is where ALL non-vehicle related claims are paid (think hours lost from work whilst dealing with phone calls, repair shops, to and from, etc). Not saying to stick it to anyone, just have the opportunity to claim anything you are rightfully owed as far as recompense for lost monies, time, cell bills, etc. You can always choose to settle/close it for zero dollars, if you feel that is what you want to do. However at the end of the process, you can not go back at open it to try and claim things you are feeling you are owed.

Secondly, they (both the body shops and the insurance company) will try over and over to fast track you and tell you what/how you can do things (think car dealership sales tactics). I literally had to be a jackhole in order to get them to fix things to my specs (rear-ended by a Ford F150 at 40+ mph, and another time by a minivan at 25+ mph). Both times they tried to tell me that they didn't look at frame alignment and/or transmission, as that's just not part of what goes wrong in a collision. After telling them what I was going to settle for and/or threatening lawyers over many phone conversations, guess what ... finally got the right thing done.

Lastly, as to your Surb' ... check the alignment of the tailgate and glass. It might seems okay now, but after the sun heats things up, it might start catching at the top. Look at the gap alignment all the way around. As already mentioned, fuel system components in the vehicle left rear area. And spare tire mechanism in the center.

I'm sure there are some practicers of the law that are on here and can advise or suggest to you. Mine suggestions are purely from an insured drivers standpoint.

Hope it all works out and that you are safely trailering your boat to happy warm days on the water soon.

I don't remember what advise I gave you, but thanks for the input! I am making a list of things to check out tonight when I get back from work.

I am prepared to be a complete "jackhole" (as you so eloquently put it) because that truck is/was in perfect condition and I won't settle for some band-aid fix.

jkski
03-01-2010, 12:33 PM
Normally I would not respond to this thread, however, since you called me out CP, I felt you at least deserved a few words.
First-off let me say that I am glad to hear that your wife and family were in no way injured.

With that said, and knowing full-well that you are every bit as cheap as me, I get what you want out of this, as so many others have stated. It's been a while since I left the insurance industry however, I recall countless times where customers stood their ground and got the new parts that their vehicle deserved. Also keep in mind that most insurance companies have certain repair facilities that they choose to work with and some are good while some are not, so do a little research. Maybe you have a favorite place that does excellent work, so you may want to contact them ahead of time and get their opinion prior to meeting with the insurance rep.

As for replacing it, you are talking to the guy whose everyday driver is a 1992 with 220k miles on it and I can no longer wax it because the paint is just to thin!!!

Good luck.

TX.X-30 fan
03-01-2010, 01:56 PM
If the # gets too high they will just total it, I have an old sububan and figure it is getting close to zero in market value.............. 99?

Thrall
03-01-2010, 02:13 PM
Be an a-hole, get new hitch, bumper, etc, but take the check.
Parts are cheap, besides, a 20mph civic probably didn't hurt it bad.
Had that same truck 1990 p/u, got hit hard enough that I needed 4wd to pull off of the car!
Took teh check, straightened the bumper with a 2x4 and sledgehammer, slight persusaion was all that was needed to straighten it.

CantRepeat
03-01-2010, 05:42 PM
And when you ask for that alignment, make sure it is a 4 wheel alignment. It could have knock the rearend around a bit!

TX.X-30 fan
03-01-2010, 05:45 PM
I see why insurance is so ridiculous now.

TX.X-30 fan
03-01-2010, 05:48 PM
I think if we total up all the suggestions we are at aboot 7,500..................... Blue book is what 5 grand/.................... :D

TX.X-30 fan
03-01-2010, 05:54 PM
Did the Honda have an obama bumper sticker?

2RLAKE
03-01-2010, 07:50 PM
now that made me laugh out loud ...

glad everyone is OK ... make sure its good for a trip to Norm's this summer ...

Double D
03-01-2010, 08:00 PM
Captain, glad to hear everyone is fine. Since we're from the same area I can only mention Stancato Auto Service in Massillon has a good reputation. From what I heard... Of course I have never had to use them and only got an estimate. Knock on wood!

Kyle
03-01-2010, 08:35 PM
I would defanitly get in and have a kiddo or the wife to run water on the top and back end of either barndoor style or lift gate and glass style to check for leaks. Water might be able to find a way into the vehilce even if it looks to be okay. Something more than a hitch and bumper has had to flex some.

Kyle
03-01-2010, 08:40 PM
I am also not going to give any suggestions about the insurance. I sell health insurance and know the game with P and C insurance and Health. Every single time my truck got broken into, stolen, rear ended, or anyother thing that wasnt my fault I was never mad. I walked away with a lot of new stuff and extra money to spend, along with a fixed truck.

Carbon Dreams
03-02-2010, 01:04 AM
Reminds me of when my Bro got hit in the ol '90 burb. We always kept the stinger in for added protection. The car that rear ended him was estimated at 40 mph while he was at a dead stop at a light. He saw her coming at the last second and braced for impact. The 150 lb dog that was in the back ended up in the front. That was about the extent of the damage. The aforementioned stinger pierced the grill, radiator, engine block, and pushed the engine out of the sub frame out of the Honda. The impact completely crushed the Honda and was a total loss. The lady left the scene in an ambulance with back and neck injuries. The ol burb literally had just a little black paint scratched off the receiver. We had a complete alignment to include a frame rack. After complete inspection of every weld, joint, bolt on the chassis, it was clean. Probably one of the safest vehicles on the road IMHO.

American Steel wins every time.

captain planet
03-02-2010, 09:21 AM
Wow, I really appreciate everyones input. I don't think the car that hit my truck was going anymore than 20 to 25 mph. The Burb really came away unschathed (sp?)

I was able to crawl under the truck yesterday in the daylight and get a better look at it. The only damage I can see with my eyes is a bent bumper and bent receiver. I was able to see the receiver bar across the back is bent where the Honda went under the truck. The spare tire didnt' get touched, no body damage, and no cosmetic damage or flaws(other than the bumper). I will do the water thing on the rear hatch also; good idea. Also going to demand that the frame be checked out.

Tonight I will fill up the tank to full and check for leaks as suggested and actually drive it. I'm due for a new fuel filter anyway so I might as well do that now. My wife says it is pulling a little to the right but I will check that out tonight. I will get to drive behind the truck in my car tonight to see if the truck is "crabwalking" down the street.

I'll keep you posted as to what I find out is wrong and let you know. I also am going to call a buddy of mine to find out what body shop to take the truck. He is in the auto industry and knows all the good places and the bad.

I thought this might be the reason to get a new Burb, but after talking with a buddy of mine that has a 2006 Burb, the bumper on those are plastic and this collision would have been a nightmare.

captain planet
03-29-2010, 01:09 PM
For those of you who are interested, we got the truck back on Friday with a new bumper, new receiver, and new trailer lights harness/plug. :) I didn't even have to get grumpy with them over the receiver, I just told them I haul my boat and if it ends up on the side of the road because the receiver broke, a new 197 is around 45K. 8p No other damage..........other than the driver side mirror that was damaged by the dealer while they had it. They are ordering a new one and installing on their dime. For now the mirror is being held on by a couple of zip-ties. :rolleyes:

trickskier
03-29-2010, 01:37 PM
For those of you who are interested, we got the truck back on Friday with a new bumper, new receiver, and new trailer lights harness/plug. :) I didn't even have to get grumpy with them over the receiver, I just told them I haul my boat and if it ends up on the side of the road because the receiver broke, a new 197 is around 45K. 8p No other damage..........other than the driver side mirror that was damaged by the dealer while they had it. They are ordering a new one and installing on their dime. For now the mirror is being held on by a couple of zip-ties. :rolleyes:

Glad to hear everything was repaired properly! As for the mirror being held on with zip ties - Isn't that your usual mode of repair? 8p

captain planet
03-29-2010, 01:56 PM
Glad to hear everything was repaired properly! As for the mirror being held on with zip ties - Isn't that your usual mode of repair? 8p

As long as it isn't going to cost my anything, zip-ties for a few days are fine with me. 8p.

.............now I have to repair the auto-ride system on the thing. Let me tell you how excited I am about that. :(:mad:

trickskier
03-29-2010, 01:59 PM
As long as it isn't going to cost my anything, zip-ties for a few days are fine with me. 8p.

.............now I have to repair the auto-ride system on the thing. Let me tell you how excited I am about that. :(:mad:

The air pump gone?

captain planet
03-29-2010, 02:57 PM
The air pump gone?

It's been on its way out for a while now and finally quit. The air bladders on my shocks have been leaking for a while and it is time to replace all of it. Yippee!!!! :o:(

trickskier
03-29-2010, 08:02 PM
It's been on its way out for a while now and finally quit. The air bladders on my shocks have been leaking for a while and it is time to replace all of it. Yippee!!!! :o:(

Why not just put a pair of airshocks on it?

Cloaked
03-29-2010, 08:57 PM
It's been on its way out for a while now and finally quit. The air bladders on my shocks have been leaking for a while and it is time to replace all of it. Yippee!!!! :o:(Same issue here on mine. Estimate of $1600 for replacement (parts and labor). I disabled the system, put on Bilsteins and pulled the fuse to that circuit. Works like a charm. Rides just a well as the leveling system.

jkski
03-30-2010, 08:35 AM
For those of you who are interested, we got the truck back on Friday with a new bumper, new receiver, and new trailer lights harness/plug. :) I didn't even have to get grumpy with them over the receiver, I just told them I haul my boat and if it ends up on the side of the road because the receiver broke, a new 197 is around 45K. 8p No other damage..........other than the driver side mirror that was damaged by the dealer while they had it. They are ordering a new one and installing on their dime. For now the mirror is being held on by a couple of zip-ties. :rolleyes:

Glad to hear it all worked out well.
As for the price of a new 197, well, I know where you can get a 40th Anniv 197 for less than $45k with all the bells and whistles!!!

captain planet
03-30-2010, 10:30 AM
Same issue here on mine. Estimate of $1600 for replacement (parts and labor). I disabled the system, put on Bilsteins and pulled the fuse to that circuit. Works like a charm. Rides just a well as the leveling system.

I thought about that, but I like the idea that when I have a boat on the truck and other weight in the rear end that the truck levels out. It will cost me $700 in parts to do it myself and end up with original equipment. In fact, I have to order the parts today. :(

captain planet
03-30-2010, 10:41 AM
Glad to hear it all worked out well.
As for the price of a new 197, well, I know where you can get a 40th Anniv 197 for less than $45k with all the bells and whistles!!!

The 30th is going to have to last for a while until we get our house situation worked out. We'll talk in a couple of years. ;)

captain planet
03-31-2010, 11:03 AM
Cloaked, your PM box is full!

captain planet
03-31-2010, 01:08 PM
Same issue here on mine. Estimate of $1600 for replacement (parts and labor). I disabled the system, put on Bilsteins and pulled the fuse to that circuit. Works like a charm. Rides just a well as the leveling system.

I just ordered my shocks and compressor. $626 delivered and $50 back for a core deposit on my old shocks. I went with the Bilsteins. They were $100 cheaper and the only difference is they don't dampen at highway speeds, which means the truck doesn't lower by about an inch. I was told I won't miss it. I guess I know what my project is next week after I get the bearings on the boat trailer repacked.