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mad-dog1
01-04-2010, 11:59 PM
1986 Pro Star Engine rebuild

Well the time has come to dig in to this engine
351 Ford Windsor with the Powerslot 1.5 to 1 Transmission


http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=29902&page=4
Post # 40

Based on the information received from JimN & TMCNo1 I've done the following:
Compression test: "failed" .....2 cylinders did not have any compression reading at all, Remaining six only had from 90 to 110 psi max and these numbers were radical at best (Run test three times on each cylinder)

(Please excuse my lack of knowledge of these technical terms)

In any event it is time to freshen up the engine "A LOT" as JimN & TMCNo1 suggested....
I now have the urge to start on it before spring comes around and with all the holidays gone by now I need to concentrate on this project before my time runs out again....

I so wish Johnny 35th would finish with his project and put out the specs of what they did to their '93 but.. I've read his tread over and over and I just want to see the finish product and how it performs...

Here's my list of projects I would like to tackle before spring:

0.- So Far I've read that the GT40P heads are the way to go, So I have a set now....

1.- I'm going to replace the rocker arms in it for roller rockers...
The Question is Do I Need the 3/8 stud or 7/16?? and are the Proform rockers good enough for my application...??
What about the valve springs replace them if so does any one know of a kit with rocker arms, springs and lifting bars that I should purchase close to the original specifications (Input needed here please....)
Reference: Proform #778-66911 from JEGS
SB-Ford Roller Rockers 1.6 ratio, 3/8" stud.

2.- I don't think I'll be changing the Cam shaft & I will be using the original specs from the 351 Windsor.
Any input on the subject...??
Since this is not a race boat and my back can't take the unevenness of a high performance idle I'd like to keep it as stock as possible....Unless there is a need or advantage to replacing it

(Input here again please)

3.- I'll be installing a new intake manifold from Edelbrock (Based on East TX experience) Unless I'm told to go with the RPM
Edelbrock Performer 289 Intake Manifold
SB-Ford 260-289-302ci
4-bbl Square-Bore Carb Flange (non-EGR)
Idle-5500 rpm
50-state legal
In case you wonder I have installed a new 4160 Carb so the space under the engine box should not be an issue since I'll be removing the spacer plate and the new Carb has the 5/8 inlet for the PCV from the valve cover so hopefully I have enough clearance for the engine cover to close properly.

4.- I'll be replacing the control cables such as throttle, Transmission and rudder and I'd like to know if anyone knows the length of these cables, I've called SKIDIM but Richard couldn't remember if these were 15' for the throttle and 16' for the transmission or vice versa, not sure on the length of rudder cable either, Any help on these items would be greatly appreciated.....

5.- I want to replace the distributor since the last one is basically 24 years old, I'm told that wobbling creates a radical timing, mine appear to wobble....Truth or Lie???
https://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RA107025A

6.- Boat buddy Install / retrofit on my trailer and trailer refurbish...
http://www.cabelas.com/p-0001975011046a.shtml

7.- It appears that I'll be getting new chrome wheels too ...
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=33673
http://www.trailertirewarehouse.com/MasterCraft-15-Chrome-Wheel-Overstock-TTW-MCC15.htm

8.- Turn down stainless steel tips from KNB Supply
http://www.knbsupply.com/92fi3ex4.html

9.- OJ Propeller 13.7 x 17.5
https://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=OJ454

Anything I should be careful other than replacing the front and rear main seals from the engine.

Should I order a new transmission cooler..??
https://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=R147005

Should I replace the circulation pump / rebuild??
https://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RA057004

Should the Transmission be serviced in any way (Rebuilt) it knocks while in gear on or about 1200 rpm, the knocking goes away at higher rpm's or could it could just be misalignment ??

Anyway the engine is coming out the 19th of this month (January)
I'm just getting ready to start buying parts....


For any input and Ideas I Thank you all in advance...

Remember to go easy on me since I'm just a Carpenter that likes to thinker...:o
My buddy is the mechanic & He'll be assembling the engine...

I guess now I'll Just have to keep the beer tap full
(Damn that's going to be expensive....) :D

JimN
01-05-2010, 12:55 AM
Re: the compression- that sounds like a head gasket, especially if the two cylinders are adjacent. The wobbling distributor shaft will make dwell and timing suffer. Get an HEI model.

You can determine the stud size once you open it up- it won't take too long to get what you need. Is your friend an actual mechanic? Ask if he has ever used a virtual dyno program. That can tell what effects the various parts will have on performance. If he hasn't done this, ask the company that makes the cam and they will be able to tell you what will work best.

JLeuck64
01-05-2010, 03:25 AM
RE: 4
If I remember correctly, most cables are marked for length. Look at the ends carefully. If you can't see any marks then you will need to measure them for correct replacement length. You WILL love the smooth throttle response of new cable :D

RE: Trans knocking...
Take a good hard look at your damper plate after separating the engine from the transmission. It may just be the source of your knock.

Might as well pull the drive shaft out and take a look for wear in the area that is supported by the strut. If you have never replaced the strut bearings now will be a good time to do this as well.

Luv these kinds of threads!