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americanskierJim
12-18-2009, 10:42 PM
Hello guys I am going to making own thread for the boat restoration project I am doing. I know I will have alot of questions and replys to this post. I have the other post and pics on Winter projects. Thanks guys for the info I have gotten so far about the boat. There will be more pics to come.

JLeuck64
12-18-2009, 11:16 PM
Beer bottle brown metal flake is my most favorite color :love:
(hope you can sand that back to it's former glory...)

Jerseydave
12-18-2009, 11:22 PM
Nice project! She will look stunning when finished, love that color! Is the bottom of the hull metalflake too? Hard to tell with the white-ish color shown in pics.

Where in the northeast are you?

americanskierJim
12-19-2009, 09:45 AM
JLeuck64, I hope so to it just just might take alot of elbow grease.

njskier, I from Mich. Looks to be like the was painted white at one time with a spray can not to sure why but it shouldnt be to hard to get it all off.

markismm
12-20-2009, 12:51 PM
Just be careful when sanding. You sound like you have some experience in mechanicing, I just want to put my 2 cents in that you would be surprised how well you can get that gell coat to look if you take your time sanding through the wear and tear. Of course it is sometimes much tougher to bring the metal flake back our to look good than bringing out standard gel-coat colors. Good luck. The more pics you post, the better for everyone. I love seeing someone else project in motion. If I was up there where you live, I would be outside with you sanding away.

DemolitionMan
12-20-2009, 02:30 PM
Hello guys I am going to making own thread for the boat restoration project I am doing. I know I will have alot of questions and replys to this post. I have the other post and pics on Winter projects. Thanks guys for the info I have gotten so far about the boat. There will be more pics to come.

Those grills look great.

americanskierJim
12-20-2009, 05:10 PM
Thanks markismm, I could use another hand with the sanding. Here at my body shop I can get one other guy to help out with the sanding. It will take sometime to sand I am ready for the challenge at hand to bring it back to life.


Yellow78mc, Thanks cant wait to get them on the boat but it is going to be sometime before they get put on.

americanskierJim
12-21-2009, 08:09 PM
Here is a pic of the manifolds I am going to blast them tomorrow so I can repaint them. I am going to do the lettering in white and try and do the "V8" box in red with the V AND THE 8 done in white.

americanskierJim
12-21-2009, 08:18 PM
I will get some pics of the motor tomorrow. It is all all done but the carb (600 holly)has not been put on as of yet. I painted the block Blue and the heads are black there new heads. the pully,s are painted chrome for now untill I want to get the real thing lol. I laso added a breakerless system so no more points to deal with. new cap and wires(not on yet).

TMCNo1
12-21-2009, 09:15 PM
Here is a pic of the manifolds I am going to blast them tomorrow so I can repaint them. I am going to do the lettering in white and try and do the "V8" box in red with the V AND THE 8 done in white.
If you haven't already, go ahead and replace the gaskets between the manifolds and the riser while you've got them off the engine, they look like they have been leaking for a while. Get the good ones, http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RM0002

JLeuck64
12-21-2009, 09:26 PM
Here is a pic of the manifolds I am going to blast them tomorrow so I can repaint them. I am going to do the lettering in white and try and do the "V8" box in red with the V AND THE 8 done in white.

I have seen some guys paint the runners (portion of the manifold that is rusted) with a high temp heat resistant paint, like 1500 or 2000 degrees. Then paint the rest of the manifold with normal engine paint. It ends up looking great and it doesn't burn off!!!

markismm
12-21-2009, 10:22 PM
That is what I did on my manifolds. I painted the non-water-jacketed portion of the manifolds with a high heat 550deg paint and the rest of the manifolds are painted with a 350deg wrinkle paint to change up the factory look. I am not a big fan of the gloss paint put on from the factory. In any event, I would definitely paint the runners with as high of a temp you can find or it will burn off and rust in the same place yours already have. Can't wait to see how they look when finished.

americanskierJim
12-21-2009, 11:02 PM
TMCNO1, Thanks for the info I have a been looking at DIM book to get some new ones. I will get them apart and get them cleaned up and resealed. I also need to get a new damper plate the old one is a bad one.

JLeuck64, I do have 1500 paint I would hope that it doesnt burn off.


Markismm, I like the way you did yours I will keep all your tips in mind when I do these manifolds. Shouldnt be to hard to do.

americanskierJim
12-22-2009, 08:07 PM
Here is some pic's my friend found and sent to me of the boat when I got it. It was full of Hickory nuts to the edge of the lip. It took me a month of cleaning to get them all out. I pulled up the floor and checked the stringers and the in wonderful shape along with the bottom of the boat.

americanskierJim
12-22-2009, 08:10 PM
Here are some more to see.

americanskierJim
12-22-2009, 08:12 PM
Here is the last set of pics.

Sodar
12-22-2009, 08:13 PM
Did you get any of the interior pieces?

americanskierJim
12-22-2009, 08:18 PM
HI Sodar, I do have all the interior pieces from the drivers seat to the rear seat just like that pic you sent to me of the LTD just like that. most of the wood frames will have to be rebuilt before the new skins get put on. I will get some pics of the seats sometime this week.

Sodar
12-22-2009, 08:27 PM
Just curious, since it seems the interior and special gelcoat are about the only things that differentiates an LTD from a standard S&S.

americanskierJim
12-22-2009, 09:44 PM
I got ya Sodar, It was a complete boat nothing missing as far as I can see. I like the set up for seating and all the drink holders it has that is a big +.

TMCNo1
12-22-2009, 10:05 PM
How in the world did all those hickory nuts get in the bilge?

JLeuck64
12-22-2009, 10:20 PM
HA! Give the old saying "Chock Full Of Nuts" a new meaning...

americanskierJim
12-22-2009, 10:37 PM
TMCNo1, It was under a hickory tree for 19 years and the squirrels found every hole and place they could to store them. It was knee deep with them.

lol JL, you got that right.

americanskierJim
12-26-2009, 10:34 PM
Here are the seat and the skins that where on the boat when I got it and fuel tank.

cbryan70
12-26-2009, 10:49 PM
Your lucky you have somthing to work off of. should make it 'easier' to get it close to original

americanskierJim
12-26-2009, 11:04 PM
Cbryan70, That is so true. I have the pattern so I can redo it to the orignal seating. I am going to have all the buttons put in all the new skins just like the day she came off the line. I hope it all turns out.

americanskierJim
12-29-2009, 12:54 PM
Here is the motor all done. It has been redone inside and out. Just wating on a fue parts to finish it off.

thatsmrmastercraft
12-29-2009, 06:10 PM
That is quite an improvement!

americanskierJim
12-30-2009, 12:46 AM
thanks Mr.MC it was a fun job to do. Now I can waait to hear it run.

americanskierJim
12-30-2009, 12:54 AM
I am getting ready to wet sand the boat. I was wondering if I should flip it over and do the bottom then flip it back over and do the top. Or just block it up and sand off all the white I can on the bottom then do the top. What do you guys think?? Or has any one sanded and polished the bottom of your boat and how did you do it??

corey
12-30-2009, 12:46 PM
We typically put the boat up on blocks when repairing the bottom. To the best of my knowledge the deck is not designed to support the weight of the boat so keeping her right side up is in your best interest.

Sanding the bottom is not fun, get some eye, nose and mouth protection. A floor kreeper is pretty slick too.

The resto is going great! Can't wait to see the finished product.

DemolitionMan
12-30-2009, 01:55 PM
That ford blue looks nice on the motor.:)

DemolitionMan
12-30-2009, 01:56 PM
You may want to think about replacing some of those bolts with stainless one's.

americanskierJim
12-30-2009, 09:59 PM
Thanks Corey, I was looking at it today and it shoudnt be to hard to get it up on blocks to work on.

Thanks Yellow, I am going to paint the bolts head to finish them off. Everything has been tourqed down I dont want to tear it all back down to change the bolts and have to buy new gaskets again. I should have done that before reassemby of the motor.

DemolitionMan
12-30-2009, 10:07 PM
They will do fine being painted. I just didn't want to see all that hard work get ruined on the first trip to the water.

americanskierJim
12-30-2009, 11:01 PM
LOL I couldn't agree more with you. How do you like the heads ? Should I paint them blue or leave them black?

DemolitionMan
12-30-2009, 11:12 PM
They look good. I went a different route with mine.

thatsmrmastercraft
12-31-2009, 12:14 AM
Thanks Yellow, I am going to paint the bolts head to finish them off. Everything has been tourqed down I dont want to tear it all back down to change the bolts and have to buy new gaskets again. I should have done that before reassemby of the motor.

Get some Rustoleum Rust Reformer primer to hit those bolt heads prior to painting them. It neutralizes the rust and is a very good primer. That should keep the bolt heads looking good, otherwise any little corrosion under the paint will eventually bleed through.

americanskierJim
01-01-2010, 03:17 PM
MrMastercraft, I will be spraying some on the bolts to help stop the rust I did spray that on all the steel parts I did paint to help slow down the rust from forming.

americanskierJim
01-04-2010, 09:10 PM
Anyone have pics of how to block up the boat and how to go about getting it off the trailer? Thanks guys I am not to sure how to do it I dont want to damage the bottom.

DemolitionMan
01-04-2010, 09:29 PM
Trickskier had some pics on here how to do it, but I can't find them. Does anyone know where they are at?

DemolitionMan
01-04-2010, 09:57 PM
Found it. You will have to ask Trickskier the step by step.

americanskierJim
01-04-2010, 10:58 PM
Thanks Yellow I will get intouch with him and get some info. It looks great setting like that. Nice and big blocks.

corey
01-05-2010, 08:46 AM
You can lift the boat using the bow eye and the two lifting rings on the transom.

americanskierJim
01-05-2010, 09:12 AM
Thanks Drylandfish, He sent me over info how to block it up and he has pic's. Thanks guys for your help on this one. Today the real fun of getting it off the trailer and up on blocks I cant wait to get to work on it.

I started to wetsand the boat on the trailer with some 600 and finished with microfine 2000 to see how bad the gelcoat is so far so good.The white on the bottom has been sprayed on with a can and is comming off it is not part of the boat's gelcoat. I am going to buy some tripple cut for the polishing and wax it down. Looks like it is going to take some time but I think it is going to look great when it is done. I will have post some pic's of the progress.

DemolitionMan
01-05-2010, 09:40 AM
Thanks Yellow I will get intouch with him and get some info. It looks great setting like that. Nice and big blocks.

Let me know if you need anything else.:)

s250slim
01-05-2010, 01:53 PM
I Jacked Up The Rear Of The Boat And Put Jackstands And A Block Of Wood On Each One; And When That Was Done I Got A Engine Hoist And A Strap And Jacked Up The Front Of The Boat; Pulled The Trailer Out And Lower It Down On A Couple Of Hay Bales; I Did It By Myself; It Would Be Helpfull If You Had Some More Eyes And Hands.

JLeuck64
01-05-2010, 08:42 PM
I needed to have some glass and gelcoat repaired on my hull a few years back. This is how they layed it over on some fender bumpers to make it easier to work on the bottom. Looks like their shop was set up with a couple of overhead hoists for removing boats from trailers... must be nice!

americanskierJim
01-05-2010, 10:15 PM
Thanks Slim for the extra info. Your right a extra hand is always nice.

JLeuck64 wow that would be nice if I did have a overhead crane like that to tip the boat on it's side. It would also be nice to have it to get it off the trailer. I am going to use the old school way jack and block's.

Ski-me
01-06-2010, 05:54 PM
I did mine solo with a lot of blocks and towels. The center block was cut into a slight "V" with the towels to further protect it. I wanted to distribute the weight as much as possible.

It took some time but I was able to do it no problem. Keep in mind....I did it when everyone (kids, wife and dog) were away. I didn't want to risk someone bumping into it or climbing in.

That would have been a bummer.:(

It's nerve racking to see it on jack stands. I did it to re-finish my trailer so I was not touching the boat at all. Be sure to fully support it......especially if you are working underneath it.

Good luck!

americanskierJim
01-06-2010, 07:38 PM
Thanks Ski-Me, Looks great the way you have it. For the work I need to I will need to get it alittle bit more stabe. I have got the blocks to put it on. I was going to get it up yesterday but other things came up.
I did go to are local paint store and get some heavy duty rubbing compound for the polishing of the boat. and try to bring it back to life. I also did get intouch with the guy that I am going to have do my skins. we are working on a price now to see what it will run to get them done. I will keep you all posted.

americanskierJim
01-08-2010, 06:36 PM
Any of you guys have a breakerless points on your 351 W? I was wondering if I should change my coil to a stronger one from the points coil that came with it to the high energy one? If so what is the best one to put on the motor??

tph
01-08-2010, 06:44 PM
Any of you guys have a breakerless points on your 351 W? I was wondering if I should change my coil to a stronger one from the points coil that came with it to the high energy one? If so what is the best one to put on the motor??

I installed the Pertronix system on mine. I went with the stock coil at first but it got really hot.
Then I installed the Pertronix coil. It still gets a little hot but it works fine.

americanskierJim
01-08-2010, 06:49 PM
Thank's TPH, If mine is going to get really hot I dont want that. I will get a new coil and less problems and keep it running so I will not be stranded out on the lake.

glassmaster
01-08-2010, 08:15 PM
I converted my 351 points system to a electronic ignition it was easy to do and I wont have to worry with points and you can use the same coil unless you are looking for high volts.
One time I had a points distributor in a small block Chevy and it was a headache. I searched around and this was the best deal I could find I don't know if it will work for you.
Here is where I got mine;
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00027H1I0/ref=asc_df_B00027H1I0999255?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=nextag-auto-delta-20&linkCode=asn&creative=380341&creativeASIN=B00027H1I0
Sorry I don't know how to shorten a link on here.
Hope it helps

glassmaster
01-08-2010, 08:17 PM
BTW great looking project can't wait to see that thing shine!

thatsmrmastercraft
01-09-2010, 03:29 AM
Thank's TPH, If mine is going to get really hot I dont want that. I will get a new coil and less problems and keep it running so I will not be stranded out on the lake.

The points systems generally run around 18,000 - 20,000 volts and the electronic ignitions are about double that. If you upgrade the coil you should also switch to some 7mm or 8mm wires, and typically the instructions that come with the electronic ign will suggest a change in spark plug. With all this done, you can play with a little additional timing advance, just don't go too far and wind up with starting problems.

Jim@BAWS
01-09-2010, 03:52 PM
Great to see an LTD be restored. As some of you may remember we had one here last year. There was ALOT of confusion as to what year vinatge the boat was because of 2 hulls being produced at the same time. The one that was here was in a little better shape than this one.

Personally instead of the motor being painted that CRUSADER BLUE I would put it back to PCM original Silver/Gray


Jim@BAWS

LOOKING GOOD

americanskierJim
01-09-2010, 04:31 PM
Is there any paint code I get to have it mixed or can I get it in a pint to put it back to the original color? I would be willing to paint it back to the right color. The motor is still out and wouldnt take much to spray it.

Jim@BAWS
01-11-2010, 05:36 PM
Is there any paint code I get to have it mixed or can I get it in a pint to put it back to the original color? I would be willing to paint it back to the right color. The motor is still out and wouldnt take much to spray it.


PCM has the paint made for them in SPRAY CANS

Anyone who is a PCM dealer can get it for you

Jim@BAWS

PS yes I am a PCM dealer

kingwoodlee
01-11-2010, 06:08 PM
I bought my touch up paint from Discount INboard Marine in a spray can for my 88 PCM engine.

americanskierJim
01-11-2010, 08:14 PM
Thanks guys for the info. I will be getting intouch with you soon Jim on the spray can's.

americanskierJim
01-12-2010, 06:08 PM
Here is the deal with the swim platform not to sure if I want to use the galss one or put on a teak on that I have. Here is a pic of the teak one what do you guys think say with the orginal or use this one??

shepherd
01-12-2010, 06:28 PM
Great project Jim! I'm looking forward to seeing the finished project. I also jacked my boat up in the garage and set it on blocks. It seemed amazingly stable, but I didn't have as much work to do on it as you're looking at.

FWIW, while I prefer teak in general, I'd go with the original fiberglass for your swim deck.

americanskierJim
01-12-2010, 06:47 PM
Thanks Shepherd, It is a fun project it has been keeping me busy that is for sure. I agree blocking is the best way to go. I am not going to get under the boat just do as much as the sides as I can reach and leave it at that. I like teak also I will have to get a pic of the glass deck tommrow. it need's some work but nothing I cant handle.

SkiDog
01-12-2010, 07:20 PM
Here is the deal with the swim platform not to sure if I want to use the galss one or put on a teak on that I have. Here is a pic of the teak one what do you guys think say with the orginal or use this one??

Harold could have a field day with that!:D #1, you looking fer a project?;)

markismm
01-13-2010, 09:45 AM
I am partial to the teak platform. How well will that teak platform fit on you S&S? I personally think the teak platform will compliment the root beer color very nicely as opposed to a fiberglass platform.

americanskierJim
01-13-2010, 01:29 PM
Hi Markismm, I am not sure how well the teak deck will fit on the boat yet. I will have to hold it up to it tonight when I get home. I think it would look real nice on the boat. I just have to wash it and oil should look alot better.

americanskierJim
01-13-2010, 01:33 PM
Here are som pics of the Glass deck has some cracking and chips out of it. But if had to fix it I would. what do you guys think?

Sodar
01-13-2010, 01:39 PM
I would fix the fiberglass, but I would use the teak for day-to-day usage.

americanskierJim
01-13-2010, 01:44 PM
Sodar, Your saying I should use the teak deck on the boat but fix the glass one and store it?

Sodar
01-13-2010, 01:48 PM
Yeah... or just store the old fiberglass for another day. The teak is more user friendly, but maybe someday you will want to use the original platform, maybe someone with the same vintage boat will need it, etc. Basically my vote is for using the teak and keeping the fiberglass in a safe spot.

americanskierJim
01-13-2010, 02:01 PM
I am with you Sodar, less work to do on the teak I have to make some hangers up so I can put the teak deak on. I will store the glass deck unless anyone is looking for one I will sell this one to them. I have teak on my American skier boat and it is nice looking.

Sodar
01-13-2010, 02:04 PM
You could really whore it up and throw a set of folding brackets on the boat! :D

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=29738

americanskierJim
01-13-2010, 02:31 PM
WOW them there are sweet set up. I am going to look into what a set would run for this boat. That would sure make some nice room to move around.

TMCNo1
01-13-2010, 02:47 PM
Harold could have a field day with that!:D #1, you looking fer a project?;)

Ummmmmmmm, here da Ho,
54789
54796

americanskierJim
01-13-2010, 02:51 PM
I got the dash all cleaned up. From the date on the inside it reads 1/8/79. and still in great shape. I am sure there not many around.

thatsmrmastercraft
01-13-2010, 03:44 PM
If it were mine I would consider the teak deck. Its hard to beat a well cared for teak deck.

My boat came with a glass deck covered in the same carpet as the interior carpet. Its very functional, but not especially pretty.

I am impressed with the condition of the dash. although I have to lump you in with all the other guys and their new boats. JK.

americanskierJim
01-13-2010, 05:07 PM
LOL Mr.MC, Your deck looks good nice boat.I am supprised that the squril's didn't eat it all up like they did the seat's. Ok well I am going to put the teak deck on the boat. I am working on getting the boat out of my shop and get it to my house this weekend and do all the clean up that needs to get done.

americanskierJim
01-14-2010, 01:47 PM
I sent over an email to see what it would cost to get the "HO OUT KIT" for the boat. What do you guys recomend that I do with all the old deck hole's so that they will be sealed up?

thatsmrmastercraft
01-14-2010, 06:31 PM
Install an extra bilge pump!!!

I don't have the correct method to fill those holes, but I couldn't resist a small attempt at humor. Someone will surely be along with the proper method.

americanskierJim
01-14-2010, 06:38 PM
HAHAHA Mr.MC can I use yours out of your boat a see if they both would keep me from going under? LOL

americanskierJim
01-14-2010, 06:44 PM
Well here is the new plan on the boat. I wetsanded the boat today and I didn't get feed back from that. So I ended up taking some 500 and wetsanded one spot on the drivers side. Then I took some clear and sprayed it over it and it did do the job I am looking for. Here are some pic's of before and after. This is the only way I can bring it back to life without repanting the boat a diffrent color.

Sodar
01-14-2010, 07:05 PM
Looks great! How well will the clear hold up?

thatsmrmastercraft
01-14-2010, 07:23 PM
HAHAHA Mr.MC can I use yours out of your boat a see if they both would keep me from going under? LOL

I have both a battery and a bilge pump you are welcome to but their only value would be for ballast. Good work on the boat.

I haven't worked much on getting the gelcoat back to life on my boat yet, but there are quite a few threads on here where guys took quite a bit of time working from coarse to extremely fine while working on returning the original shine. Don't know if you have gone through any of the old threads yet but I suspect if you continued wetsanding to a much finer grit or used some compound following the wetsanding you should get the shine you are looking for without a clearcoat. Just passing along some of the info I have read on this site - not from any firsthand experience. Keep up the good work.

americanskierJim
01-14-2010, 07:51 PM
Thanks Sodar, It should hold up real good that is 5 coats of clear on it to bring it what you see. I could spray more on and make it look deeper but 5 is the magic number.

americanskierJim
01-14-2010, 08:10 PM
Thanks Mr.MC for the offer but I have the ballast coverd with all the holes lol.

I worked on it almost all afternoon wet sanding and trying everything I could all diffrent grits to bring it back and all it was doing is cutting the metalic down and I didnt like that. so I left it at that. I mixed the clear and went to it. I like the way it came out.The shine is better that what I though. I will have to keep up on when I am done using it at the end of the day to keep it looking good.

JLeuck64
01-14-2010, 09:31 PM
Yea, I have heard the same thing... Asked a guy I work with about bringing the shine back to my trailer fenders (they are metallic gel coat also). He said the best way he knows of keeping the shine from going away is to wet sand them down (as you have) and then apply lots of clear coat (as you have). Looks good!

americanskierJim
01-14-2010, 09:52 PM
Thank you JLeuck64, I have been worikng in the body shop for years next to my Dad. I had asked him what should be done and he said to clear it to keep it looking right. But your guy was right the more you sand the more it cuts the metallic flake down and it will mess it all up.You can clear it alot untill you can almost reach in and grab the flake out. But dont get me wrong if I knew I couldnt bring it back it would have been repainted by now. I am going to give it my all and make it look nice and keep it gleaming in the sun just like the day it came off the line.

americanskierJim
01-15-2010, 01:33 PM
I started to wetsand off the stars today they are painted on. I also wetsanded the clear I sprayed lastnight and polishied to a better than new finish. All the flake is looking great.

Tim from the drop down platform kit emailed me today. What a wonderful guy he is. Tim is going to make a trip out the my shop and see what I have and how to get the setup to work on my boat. I cant wait to see what it is going to look like with the teak deck and the drop down on it.

With the teak deck has anyone cut there's to make it fit on there boat? I have to cut mine on the back side in order for it to fit. I did draw a line on it where it need's to be cut with the old glass deck should I just trimm little by little off untill it fits right?

thatsmrmastercraft
01-15-2010, 01:44 PM
Measure once - cut twice........................ or is it the other way around.

I might be inclined to mock up a template out of a large piece of cardboard.

cbryan70
01-15-2010, 03:11 PM
I had to completly mod the teak to fit my boat.

americanskierJim
01-15-2010, 11:13 PM
I have some pic's of the dash cluster. Hour meater reads 699.3.

americanskierJim
01-15-2010, 11:24 PM
I also removed the center pole today. That was a job but the old metal is bad so I took it all out. I also had to beat the bottom mount off. The center pole looks great I am going to get it polished . With both mounts I am going to fab them out of aluminum.

americanskierJim
01-18-2010, 11:57 AM
The floor is out and I need to get some new plywood. What kind of wood is the best to use a marine plywood? Or just get regular plywood and epoxy it on the bottom and top?

JLeuck64
01-18-2010, 01:57 PM
I've been helping out replacing the floors of an old Hydrodyne our show ski team uses. We have been purchasing marine plywood AND wraping all of it before glassing it into the hull. It adds a lot of work and materials but the finished product should definetly hold up much longer this time...

americanskierJim
01-18-2010, 07:49 PM
Thanks for the info JLeuck64. I will do like you said wrap them first then glass them in. I have got along weekend to get them done I am hoping.

americanskierJim
01-18-2010, 08:26 PM
What do you guys think about me using these gauges in place of the old Airguides? These are "new" and from Australia but there in KM not MPH. But I do have a set of airguides that is in MPH.

americanskierJim
01-19-2010, 10:21 PM
I took the ski pole to the machine shop today. I am going to have them cut it down 10thousands and make me some teflon bushings to fit in the steel brackets so the pole will not get rusted in again like you see in the photo's. Then off to get it all polished up.

thatsmrmastercraft
01-19-2010, 11:45 PM
That sure makes sense. That dissimilar metal thing in a wet environment just doesn't work out so well.

kiteklan
01-20-2010, 02:49 PM
What do you guys think about me using these gauges in place of the old Airguides? These are "new" and from Australia but there in KM not MPH. But I do have a set of airguides that is in MPH.

See if you can find the brand FARIA

http://www.faria-instruments.com/styles.php

I had used them they look nice and If I were you I would take out that amp meter ,that is competly useless and a lot of extra wiring ,use a led or bulb for it and since you have the voltmeter in the system you will always see your battery is being charged or not (you know when the engine is running voltmeter shows a little over 12 volt ,between 13-14volt,that means you are charging).Or leave the amp meter but do not wire it.

Jim@BAWS
01-20-2010, 05:20 PM
What do you guys think about me using these gauges in place of the old Airguides? These are "new" and from Australia but there in KM not MPH. But I do have a set of airguides that is in MPH.


NO BE PATIENT You will find better replacements than that

Jim@BAWS

americanskierJim
01-20-2010, 08:02 PM
Thank you for the info Kitelan. I will disconnect the amp meter but I will leave it on the boat to fill the dash hole.

Thanks Jim, I will be patient and wate for diffrent ones to come along or I have theses ones and they work great and there the ones that came with the boat.

thatsmrmastercraft
01-21-2010, 01:11 AM
Thank you for the info Kitelan. I will disconnect the amp meter but I will leave it on the boat to fill the dash hole.

Thanks Jim, I will be patient and wate for diffrent ones to come along or I have theses ones and they work great and there the ones that came with the boat.

I spent some time with my original Airguides cleaning, polishing and detailing. I was hoping to find some of the face decals that were available years ago, but like so many things, they are long gone. I may have some new face decals made, but they still work great.

americanskierJim
01-21-2010, 02:44 PM
Well today Tim C. from OJPROPS stopped by the shop to look at the boat. He was excited to see that I restoring the boat and bring it back to life. We talked about getting the drop down platform set put on so that is underway. I will also be getting some more parts that are need to bring it up to date in the drive shaft area. I will get some pics whenI get the new parts.

americanskierJim
01-22-2010, 07:56 AM
Mr.MC there is a place that will reface the gauges. http://www.classicboatwork.com/classicparts/gauges/restorations/restoration_gauge.html. Here is the link. I have talked to them about redoing mine. As of yet no price has been set to have them redone.

thatsmrmastercraft
01-22-2010, 10:00 AM
Mr.MC there is a place that will reface the gauges. http://www.classicboatwork.com/classicparts/gauges/restorations/restoration_gauge.html. Here is the link. I have talked to them about redoing mine. As of yet no price has been set to have them redone.

Thanks for the info. I will check them out. In fact, I took the speedometers out of the boat before storage and have them in my shop for a little more polishing. Looks like one more thing to add to the winter list.

americanskierJim
01-22-2010, 10:50 PM
No problem Mr.MC anytime I can help out I will try too.

Here are the headers painted them today and I did a little extra painting by hand. Hope there going to look good on the motor.

americanskierJim
01-23-2010, 10:30 PM
I got the the drive shaft out. It took 3 hours to get it out not to bad for setting for almost 20 years. I had remove the transmison to take the shaft out. But all in all it went well. Now just wating toget the new parts.

americanskierJim
01-23-2010, 10:34 PM
I got a new rebuild kit today in the mail. My carb is a Holly 600 list number is 7163 in total cost me $35.oo with shipping here is the link.
http://allstatecarburetor.com/detail.php?pid=512&mfgn=1&ctgn=6&stt=5&gb=2

thatsmrmastercraft
01-23-2010, 11:02 PM
Not a bad price on the kit.

TMCNo1
01-24-2010, 09:05 AM
I got a new rebuild kit today in the mail. My carb is a Holly 600 list number is 7163 in total cost me $35.oo with shipping here is the link.
http://allstatecarburetor.com/detail.php?pid=512&mfgn=1&ctgn=6&stt=5&gb=2


That's a great price and I've got it bookmarked for future reference. If in fact the kit comes with the intake carb spacer gasket and carb base gasket, that even a much better deal, saving another $7.50, the way I see it..

americanskierJim
01-24-2010, 10:16 AM
TMCNo1, It has everything you need from A to Z. I was verry pleased with the kit. Best thing of all you dont have to buy extra parts to make it complete. I know I will be stocking up on these kit at this price.

TMCNo1
01-24-2010, 10:23 AM
TMCNo1, It has everything you need from A to Z. I was verry pleased with the kit. Best thing of all you dont have to buy extra parts to make it complete. I know I will be stocking up on these kit at this price.


Right, I gave $42 for a kit, not including the base gaskets 10 years ago and just used it last year for a rebuild, so I'm ordering one of these next week to keep/have as a spare kit.:) And, I've an extra base gasket I didn't have to use that I had bought, to have as a spare too.

thatsmrmastercraft
01-24-2010, 10:25 AM
Right, I gave $42 for a kit, not including the base gaskets 10 years ago and just used it last year for a rebuild, so I'm ordering one of these next week to keep/have as a spare kit.:)

Sounds like a good idea. I just rebuilt mine in July, but it is hard to pass up that price.

americanskierJim
01-24-2010, 02:32 PM
Here is the boat stripped of everything on the inside just have to get the trasmison out. What should I use to clean up the inside the hull?

americanskierJim
01-24-2010, 10:41 PM
I need to change one of the fin's does any one have one for sale? Or should I get a new one?or just use this one and put it in the back and the other 2 good ones in the front of this one?

americanskierJim
01-27-2010, 05:55 PM
I did some some more work today at the machine shop today. I cut a new spring stop pin for locking the seat in place. I also turned the center post about 16th of an inch it looks alot better now. Next step is to reglass down the steel bottom mounting cup. I am also going to weld on to the upper mount some extra plate so it is not just pulling in the 6 inches that it is bolted to. Should give it some support and make it stronger. I will get some pic's tommrow.

thatsmrmastercraft
01-27-2010, 07:17 PM
Just for curiosity sake, how did you turn down the pylon?

americanskierJim
01-27-2010, 08:04 PM
MrMC. My good friend has one big leathe. He has been making part's for years on it. He put it on the machine found the angle to set the cutter for the tapper side then with the flat side of the post he went stright on with the cutter and turned it down. It did take sometime to get the angle I think it was right around 62.3 degree's off center. I think if we had to we could make new one's right from round stock now that would be a fun project to do too. I was going to polish mine I think I am going to leave it like it is.

thatsmrmastercraft
01-28-2010, 01:00 AM
That would be a big lathe. I gave my ski post a quick polish last year and plan to give it a complete polish this spring. I have a chemical sealer somewhere on a shelf. I will have to dig that out and see if I can use it on the ski post.

Skipper
01-28-2010, 09:49 AM
I need to change one of the fin's does any one have one for sale? Or should I get a new one?or just use this one and put it in the back and the other 2 good ones in the front of this one?

Holy nuts! What the heck happened to that tracking fin? They cost a ton of money from places like Eberts and Glen-L. Hard to find random tracking fins for sale. You may see if your friend at the machine shop can get it straightened and get out the bumps.

americanskierJim
01-28-2010, 09:55 AM
Hey Skipper, It was that way when I bought the boat but I didnt think it was that bad untill I took it off. I will take it in and see what can be done to fix it. If anything I will do my best and put it back on. If it is a little bent it shouldn't hurt any thing will it??

americanskierJim
01-28-2010, 01:22 PM
I took the bad tracking fin to the machine shop this morning. I asked if they could make a new one with the CNC. They said "Yes" but then Ed (my friend) spoke up and said I can make a sand casting of a good one( I have 2 good ones) . I think a casting of the fin would be better. Now it is time to wait and see what he comes up with on the new casting. He will make one this weekend. I will get some pic's.

americanskierJim
01-29-2010, 11:11 AM
Here are some pic's of the part we cut out of brass. I is a much longer shaft and alot easyer to get to when you need to move your seat back or forward. We made the end of shaft threaded and we cut a handle to fit. It works verry well and no more fighting for that little ball justto move the seat.

americanskierJim
01-29-2010, 11:45 AM
The center post with a nice clean face on it.

damaged442
01-29-2010, 03:25 PM
I love the fact that the seat base is brown flake!! Awesome!!

americanskierJim
01-29-2010, 04:37 PM
I talked to Tim C. ( from OJPROP'S) today on how the other parts are comming along for the boat. He said he will have them done the second week of Feb. I am ready to get the motor and trans back in the boat. Tim also put me intouch with Marine Machine based out of Grand Rapids Michigan to get the double end coupler made and a new drive shaft. I will keep you posted.

americanskierJim
01-29-2010, 07:34 PM
I found the center steering wheel cover. It was all black so I added some color to it.

americanskierJim
01-30-2010, 07:21 PM
I started on taking the seating apart and making the new wood forms. here are some pic's.

BriEOD
01-30-2010, 07:39 PM
WoW!! Looks like quite a job.

americanskierJim
01-31-2010, 04:44 PM
Ok here's the motor no more royal blue. I just primed it for the orginal color. I am going to spray it basecoat/clearcoat. I guess we will just see how long it will hold up. I dont think it would get so hot to burn off the paint with all the water cooling it down. Anyway color to come later on toinght I will post more pics. ( I used 2K Primer/sealer)

americanskierJim
01-31-2010, 08:47 PM
I got the motor all done it turned out great. I painted it all most to the factory color. I hope you guys like it I know I do.

barefoot
01-31-2010, 09:01 PM
I'm impressed! That's quite a project...It's fun to follow the posts of someone that is more talented than I am. I'm envious that are able to pull this boat apart and completely rebuild it. It's something that I wish I was able to do.

Great work and keep the pics coming!

thatsmrmastercraft
02-01-2010, 12:02 AM
Looking good Jim. I hope the paint holds up.........it sure looks nice.

americanskierJim
02-02-2010, 09:29 PM
Thank you barefoot and Mr MC. I am trying my best. Barefoot, no need to be envious I would help you out with what I know any time.


Here is the back seat frame comming along it will be done tommrow and off to get some new skins started this weekend. Picture with my good friend and flight mentor Mr.Garry Hoppy. He is a big help with the project.

Ben
02-03-2010, 12:06 AM
Thank you barefoot and Mr MC. I am trying my best. Barefoot, no need to be envious I would help you out with what I know any time.


Here is the back seat frame comming along it will be done tommrow and off to get some new skins started this weekend. Picture with my good friend and flight mentor Mr.Garry Hoppy. He is a big help with the project.

Awesome project, especially the great detailed updates. As others said, I'd love to have the chance/time/tools to do all of that... Any chance I could check it out sometime. I'd love to see an older MC all tore up.

americanskierJim
02-03-2010, 08:39 AM
Hello Ben, Sure you can come and see what we have going on with the boat. I see your from Michigan.... send me a PM and I will give my info to you. Just to let you know you know in about a month I have a big project lined up with a verry special guest to come help out. But either way feel free to come out.

s250slim
02-03-2010, 04:35 PM
Looks Like Your Project Is Coming Along Pretty Well; Im Going To Build A Back Seat For My 75; What Type Of Plywood Did You Use?

BriEOD
02-03-2010, 08:38 PM
What are you going to do to waterproof the wood? Fiberglass, Line-x, etc?

americanskierJim
02-03-2010, 09:28 PM
Hello Slim, I used 1/2 inch 6 ply from Home Depot. it wasnt to bad price for it and it is a good sturdy frame with the 3/4 staples. I also made a bottom for it today and finished the center cup holder and storage compartment.

americanskierJim
02-03-2010, 09:32 PM
BriEDO, I am going to use fiberglass to seal it all up.

kiteklan
02-04-2010, 08:17 AM
BriEDO, I am going to use fiberglass to seal it all up.

fiberglass, Aren't you curius about putting extra weight on your boat and a lot of work,If I were you I would just paint the wood with (Flexible) Epoxy, Paint.Since nothing is going to be submerged ,I think fiberglass is overkill:)

americanskierJim
02-04-2010, 09:24 AM
kitelan, I agree with the extra weight with the fiberglass . You'r right I should use epoxy to seal it up and call it good. Thanks for the heads up .

thatsmrmastercraft
02-04-2010, 10:23 AM
The other option to consider would be either undercoating or Herculiner roll on bed liner. Both of those are flexible also and might hold up a little longer.

americanskierJim
02-04-2010, 09:53 PM
Undercoating would be a good option to use and it will hold up. Here is the motor comming along little by little.

americanskierJim
02-05-2010, 10:12 PM
I went to MARINE MACHINE here in Michigan today to get a new prop shaft and coupler made. They didnt have my size in stock. From what Brian the owner said there special made parts. the total cost for both is $435.oo For both to be made. If you need any shafts or couplers or anything to deal with inboard boat's give him a call at 1-(586)791-8800 or look them up online at marinemachining.com or aquamet.com

thatsmrmastercraft
02-05-2010, 10:17 PM
I went to MARINE MACHINE here in Michigan today to get a new prop shaft and coupler made. They didnt have my size in stock. From what Brian the owner said there special made parts. the total cost for both is $435.oo For both to be made. If you need any shafts or couplers or anything to deal with inboard boat's give him a call at 1-(586)791-8800 or look them up online at marinemachining.com or aquamet.com

www.skidim.com has the coupler and shaft for $315 + $26 UPS Ground.

americanskierJim
02-05-2010, 10:48 PM
Hi Mr. MC I didnt think of them. It is ok I am keeping local machine shop open. Tim C. from OJPROPS put me intouch with Marine Machine. Just to explain what coupler I have it is a 5" 4 hole bolt pattern with a 3" inch shank not a 2" for the shaft it is a 1"1/8 42". I will them next Wednesday and Brian will drop them off to me. Now that is service.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-05-2010, 11:29 PM
Nothing wrong with supporting the local shop. I thought your boat would have a 1" shaft so the price I put up was a little low. Gotta love the great service.

My boat is put away for the winter 200 miles from here. Next year I will have a garage here so I can be working on it through the winter. I have to live vicariously through you and some of the others. Keep up the good work.

americanskierJim
02-05-2010, 11:39 PM
Mr.MC you can and help out if you like I can always use a hand with getting it back together. I am just kidding. I wish you best on getting your garage up so you can work on your's. I have a plan to get the boat ready by the first week of April. Just in time that the ice will be off the lake.

pkreusch
02-05-2010, 11:50 PM
Why did you need shaft and coupler? Was there damage to them when you bought the boat?

americanskierJim
02-06-2010, 12:07 AM
Hello ,pkreusch yes the coupler was beat on with a big hammer and I couldn't get the coupler off with out doing more damage to it and the shaft is stuck in the coupler. It is just to much to mess with it is to easy to get a new one and put it on. For the shaft it is damaged where the strut bearing's rode on the shaft. The nut and the threads are trashed out the guy that had it before me cut it with a cut off wheel. Just to tell you how bad it was I took the nut off by hand with no tools.

americanskierJim
02-06-2010, 06:14 PM
How would I go about testing the alternator ? I took it to Auto Zone and they can't do it. What do you guy's recommend? Here is a pic of that one I have.

TMCNo1
02-06-2010, 07:32 PM
How would I go about testing the alternator ? I took it to Auto Zone and they can't do it. What do you guy recommend? Here is a pic of that one I have.

Most likely the guys at AZ are numbnutz, so check the yellow pages for electric motor, alternator, generator, starter repair shops or you local Motorcraft or AC Delco dealers and they know how to do their job.

americanskierJim
02-06-2010, 08:11 PM
TMCNo1, LOL I will have to do that your right. Thanks for a good laugh.

pkreusch
02-06-2010, 09:31 PM
You'll need an "old school" ford electrical guru to test it.

If you're looking to rebuild it so you're sure it won't let you down on the first river trip, and you don't mind shiping it to Fl., there's a very reasonable shop here in orlando that rebuilds all sorts. I'm sure they can get you what you need. They remanufacture and resell to the stores like Autozone. Follow this link...
http://maps.google.com/places/us/florida/orlando/w-jackson-st/1203/-cpi-starter-&-alternator?hl=en
Prices for marine alternator and starter repair are well under the cost of purchasing new. I've never been dissappointed in their service and have always been quite impressed with their prices. Starter for my Ford PCM 351 out of my 1980 MC stars and stripes from marine starer dealer $300, rebuilt from CPI $75. Alternator from same boat $375 from marine alternator dealer, rebuilt from CPI $ 90. Good luck.

Keep the pics coming, love the updates. Reminds me of when I completely rebuilt (not necessarily restored) mine.
P.........:)

americanskierJim
02-06-2010, 09:42 PM
Thanks for the info pkreusch, I add them to my favorite place's I will be calling them on monday. Not bad prices at all for another one if I need it.

I will keep the pic's comming I will have some more tommrow of the motor. I just cant wait for my other part's to come in so I can start getting the motor and trans back in.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-07-2010, 12:24 AM
Jim, I would think you could find a local shop and save freight on shipping an alternator around the country. No offense to pkreusch, I'm sure his guy took care of him well for him to speak well of him. Here are some options in your neck of the woods http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&gl=us&hl=en&g=375+East+2nd+Street%2C+Imlay+City%2C+MI+48444-1317&q=alternator+flint%2C+mi&btnG=Search+Maps

I also spend a lot of time at my local Mastercraft Dealer in search of parts and information (Midwest Mastercraft). Not sure if you are a regular at Action Water Sports http://www.actionwater.com/custompage.asp?pg=Fenton but if they do alternator work in-house, they may be a good source.

Just sayin.

americanskierJim
02-07-2010, 09:31 AM
Mr.MC, Thanks for the info. I know where Action Water Sports is at. I will have to give them a call on Tuesday and see if they can help me out and take a look at it. It also look's like I will be checking around in the store to see what more I can pick up from them for the boat.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-07-2010, 09:35 AM
Mr.MC, Thanks for the info. I know where Action Water Sports is at. I will have to give them a call on Tuesday and see if they can help me out and take a look at it. It also look's like I will be checking around in the store to see what more I can pick up from them for the boat.

It might have been an expensive suggestion for me to give you. Hard not to go there and find something to buy.

I know that my local dealer has been invaluable in assistance and their prices are very competitive on everything that I have purchased there.

pkreusch
02-07-2010, 12:02 PM
No offence taken mrmastercraft....... Hope he finds what he's looking for.

On a side note, I noticed that many of the TT regulars are from up north. Must be that people down this way spend most of their time skiing and most of the people up your way just freeze most of the year. Must be a bummer!!!

americanskierJim
02-07-2010, 03:45 PM
Here is more motor pics. I just put the alternator on just for now untill I get it checked out and the belt's are the old one's. I just wanted to see it comming together. I made some wood muffler holders I am going to glass them down to the floor and to keep them off them off the floor.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-07-2010, 07:12 PM
No offence taken mrmastercraft....... Hope he finds what he's looking for.

On a side note, I noticed that many of the TT regulars are from up north. Must be that people down this way spend most of their time skiing and most of the people up your way just freeze most of the year. Must be a bummer!!!

Yeah, we pretty much just sit in our igloos from September to June waiting for a stray seal or penguin to wander by so we can kill it and eat it raw.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-07-2010, 07:13 PM
Here is more motor pics. I just put the alternator on just for now untill I get it checked out and the belt's are the old one's. I just wanted to see it comming together. I made some wood muffler holders I am going to glass them down to the floor and to keep them off them off the floor.

Nice work on the rear panel. I see that you, like me, haven't got around to changing over to electronic ignition. You going to keep the points for the restoration sake?

americanskierJim
02-07-2010, 10:04 PM
Thanks Mr.MC, for being a friend. I like ya, You have been keeping intouch on here and giving me some pointers here and there I like that.
The points are gone, I did put in a electronic ignition on the motor. I was able to use my old parts for that and as you see I bought a new cap. The kit I bought was Ignitor conversion I payed $ 95.oo for it and a new coil.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-07-2010, 11:36 PM
Thanks Mr.MC, for being a friend. I like ya, You have been keeping intouch on here and giving me some pointers here and there I like that.
The points are gone, I did put in a electronic ignition on the motor. I was able to use my old parts for that and as you see I bought a new cap. The kit I bought was Ignitor conversion I payed $ 95.oo for it and a new coil.

Thanks Jim, you're no slouch yourself. I am just passing on some of the things so many of the others answered for me while I was learning the ropes. I still have a lot to learn, but I am asking fewer questions than I am answering now. Wait till I get my boat out of winter storage - that will change.

The reason I asked about the points is I see you still have the ballast resistor in the picture and I don't know of an electronic ignition that uses it. Good price on the conversion.

americanskierJim
02-08-2010, 07:07 AM
With the set up I have you still use the coil. (Ballast resistor) I will take some pics of the set up this morning and you can get a better idea of what I have. The guys at the shop where I got it from swear by them for the performance. One of the guy's there has the same set up on his boat and he likes it and say's "NO MORE POINT'S TO CHANGE".. :) :)

thatsmrmastercraft
02-08-2010, 11:19 AM
With the set up I have you still use the coil. (Ballast resistor) I will take some pics of the set up this morning and you can get a better idea of what I have. The guys at the shop where I got it from swear by them for the performance. One of the guy's there has the same set up on his boat and he likes it and say's "NO MORE POINT'S TO CHANGE".. :) :)

Electronic ignition is probably one of the most driver appreciated improvements you can do for your boat. Perhaps there is some confusion on my part. No way to get by without the coil, but in the picture of the plate that goes on the back or the intake manifold, I see you still have your points related ballast resistor which is different from your coil. This should be removed from your system because it is designed to limit the voltage in the points ignition system.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-08-2010, 11:40 AM
Your installation instructions should have you removing the ballast and simply connecting the wires together thereby eliminating the ballast from the system.

americanskierJim
02-08-2010, 05:31 PM
Ok, Now I understand what your talking about sorry I was alittle confused on my end. You are right it does say to do what you had explained. Here is some pic's of the part that I have.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-08-2010, 05:39 PM
That Pertronix is a great ign. I used to sell a ton of those. Virtually zero failure rate.

americanskierJim
02-08-2010, 05:48 PM
Mr.MC, So I didnt do to bad by buying this then? I just had a little talk with my guys here at the shop about the "Ballast Resistor" I was reading the wrong thing. They showed me in the notes that "If you ignition presently HAS A BALLAST RESISTOR, DO NOT REMOVE IT". That is in big bold RED print lol. All I can say ok I was wrong this time.. So I guess it will stay on and go along for the ride.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-08-2010, 06:27 PM
Mr.MC, So I didnt do to bad by buying this then? I just had a little talk with my guys here at the shop about the "Ballast Resistor" I was reading the wrong thing. They showed me in the notes that "If you ignition presently HAS A BALLAST RESISTOR, DO NOT REMOVE IT". That is in big bold RED print lol. All I can say ok I was wrong this time.. So I guess it will stay on and go along for the ride.

I stand corrected. I sure won't argue with big bold red print. Sometimes all that fine frint is more than just suggestions. Glad I didn't steer you the wrong way.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-08-2010, 07:06 PM
Jim, I'm curious what part number PerTronix part number you purchased. While I was digging through the PerTronix website, I saw that they make both automotive and marine versions if their ignition. I didn't realize that. There was no info to differentiate it from the automotive version, so I sent an email to their tech dept. looking for the answer.

It seems like for everything I learn on this site I end up with two more questions.

americanskierJim
02-08-2010, 08:03 PM
I will have to get the number off it tomarrow now that I am home. I think it is the marine one that I got. I told the guy that I got it from he know's that is was for a boat. I have been get all my parts from him for the motor.

pkreusch
02-08-2010, 09:15 PM
That is correct Mrmastercraft. The ballast resistor is no longer needed. Had it on my boat with the pointless ingnition when I bought it and the previous owner never removed it. Makes me wonder if the instructions actually tell you to. They definitely should but maybe it's been omitted. I found that the schematic of the "no points" system omitted it and I removed it from the boat with no problem whatsoever. An old school Ford mechanic confirmed my suspicions.
P.........

pkreusch
02-08-2010, 09:21 PM
But........If AmSkrJim purchased one and it's in bold print not to remove, then he must have a different model Pertronix than mine. If the tech dept's answer to Mrmsrcrft says leave it in, well who are we to argue with them. Cant wait to hear what they say.....

EricB
02-08-2010, 09:58 PM
The ballast resistor can be disconnected, or just move the feed wire to the other side so it is a direct connection.

The ballast resistor limits coil saturation at slow engine speeds. Otherwise, with a set dwell time (points) the coil would overheat and fail.
With the electronic ignition, the internal circuitry of the module controls the dwell time to limit over-current of the coil.
So go ahead and remove the resistor from the circuit. It will not cause problems. It will give you better and more consistent spark at the plugs when you need it.
I had the same Kit in my 83 S&S. Worked great.

pkreusch
02-09-2010, 12:49 AM
Thanks EricB. I knew it was something like that. Couldn't remember. Sold my 1980 S&S last year and dealt with the resistor issue 4+ years ago so my memory failed the details. Since the resistor is really not needed, I wonder what reason the company has for telling the user NOT to remove it? Let's hear what MrMc has to say when he gets an answer from his e-mail to the tech dept.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-09-2010, 07:11 PM
I traded a few emails with Martin Grebow Jr. from the Technical Department at PerTronix. Part of his explanation on the Ignitor I is as follows:

The Ignitor doesnít control any of the dwell. The dwell on the Ignitors are controlled by how we build the magnet sleeve. On Ignitors in marine application we recommend you keep the resister in line. Because you will need the resister to keep the coil cool.

He went on to say that if you install an Ignitor II, it does control the dwell and they recommend that you remove the ballast resistor.

My experience with there conversions have been strictly in the automotive field where heating the coil a little won't have any adverse effects. Just another illustration where this forum is an invaluable tool to anyone with a Mastercraft.

In addition, I questioned him about any difference in automotive vs. marine applications. Marvin explained we use the same part number on both automotive and marine application. If you are asking about the Ignitor needing a marine certification. It doesnít need one, because itís fitting into an already marine approved distributor

pkreusch
02-09-2010, 07:40 PM
Kudos to MrMC for getting to the bottom of that!!!!!!!!!!

Must have had the Ignitor II on my boat. My schematic definitely had the resistor removed. Never had any heating problems with my coil either.

Guess Amskrjim will need to leave his in......

BTW, great paint job on the motor Amskrjim. When I repainted my motor I went with blue and regretted it from the beginning. the silver/black looks great!
How about some more photos???? My mouth is watering for more of your great restoration!!!
Pleeeeeaaaaasssse......
P.......

americanskierJim
02-09-2010, 08:23 PM
Thank you MR.MC, For asking the question and getting a anwser about what I had to with the Ignitor I have. Now that we know anwser I feel alot better. I didnt do anything with the motor today it just sat in the corner and I was hoping I got the right one.


Pkreush, Thank you, I painted it royal blue and back at first(I have posted pic's near the start of the post) then a couple of the guy's where telling me to put it back to the orginal color. So I still had the oil cap with the right pewter/silver color. I grabbed some paint off my shelf and started to mix up something close and it is almost right on. I also like the black on it complments very well. I will get some more pic's posted soon.

americanskierJim
02-13-2010, 05:58 PM
Soon I will be putting the motor back in the boat along with the trans. Now should I use the threaded screw bolts that came off or should I go look for another mounting bolt with a nut backer to put it back in place??

americanskierJim
02-16-2010, 11:37 PM
On my way tomorrow to get the new drive shaft and coupler at Marine Machine. I will get some pic's. Now I can start getting the motor ready to install.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-16-2010, 11:39 PM
On my way tomorrow to get the new drive shaft and coupler at Marine Machine. I will get some pic's. Now I can start getting the motor ready to install.

I was just going to send you a PM to see if you had made any more progress.

Next winter I will definitely have my boat in a garage where I can work on it. This is driving me crazy.

pkreusch
02-17-2010, 10:02 AM
Soon I will be putting the motor back in the boat along with the trans. Now should I use the threaded screw bolts that came off or should I go look for another mounting bolt with a nut backer to put it back in place??

Every ski boat I've owned has had either one or two of those lag screws stripped in the wood or the stringer cracked from improper pre-drill. My vote would be for a stainless blind nut type arrangement where you can pre drill the mounting holes through the stringer. You'll need to properly seal the hole with resin or something to prevent water damage to the stringer. It would be a great time to develop a better mounting system if your floor is still out. If not, it would be difficult getting behind the stringer.

Ready for more pics of the progress!!!

P........

americanskierJim
02-17-2010, 09:24 PM
Well here is the part's, I can start to get to work again on the boat. I also got the strut back today and it looks great. I can't wait untill this weekend to put it back on.

americanskierJim
02-19-2010, 10:05 PM
Sorry guy's I haven't be posting much I have been busy working . I will be working on the boat this weekend. I am going to getting the tranny ready for paint. I think I am going paint it black and drop it back in. While it is out should I chane the oil in it? I pulled the stick out and wow it is just like it came out of a new bottle. It dosen't feel broke down or smell bad what do you guys think I should do?

JLeuck64
02-19-2010, 10:43 PM
Paint it to match the engine!!!! That color is sick!

americanskierJim
02-19-2010, 11:00 PM
I could do that you right it would look "SICK". I have extra paint left over when I painted the motor. So that is the plan to paint it the same color so they match.

pkreusch
02-21-2010, 08:57 PM
Sorry guy's I haven't be posting much I have been busy working . I will be working on the boat this weekend. I am going to getting the tranny ready for paint. I think I am going paint it black and drop it back in. While it is out should I chane the oil in it? I pulled the stick out and wow it is just like it came out of a new bottle. It dosen't feel broke down or smell bad what do you guys think I should do?

Jim;

If you can't verify when the tranny oil was last serviced, I would definitely change it. After a while in the tranny with no use, any sediment settles to the bottom. The oil may not smell burnt but a few dollars worth of oil wont break you and it's great assurance that you know now when it has been done. Old oil doesn't need to smell burnt to lose it's properties that keep the tanny running well.

P.......

americanskierJim
02-21-2010, 09:08 PM
I will drain it first thing in the morning I am not sure when it was last changed . I am going to be painting it I will have some pics for you to see.

americanskierJim
02-23-2010, 07:44 PM
Tranny drained of the old oil and I also did a little work on it what you think??

thatsmrmastercraft
02-23-2010, 07:46 PM
Lookin' good!

americanskierJim
02-23-2010, 08:08 PM
Thanks Mr.MC I have some other pic's I will post. I got my parts back for the polisher today ($250.oo later) here is what I got back.(All but the strut) I like the look's of these part's now.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-24-2010, 10:03 AM
Darn near had to put the sunglasses on just to view the pictures. :cool:

americanskierJim
02-24-2010, 05:53 PM
Sorry Mr.MC I will tund down the lights now LOL.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-24-2010, 05:55 PM
Can't wait to see that shiny running gear out in the sunlight. :cool:

americanskierJim
02-24-2010, 06:39 PM
I am so ready to get back to work on the boat. This weekend I am going to try to take the glass off not to sure yet how it comes off have any pointers?

thatsmrmastercraft
02-24-2010, 06:53 PM
You talking windshield?

americanskierJim
02-24-2010, 06:57 PM
Yes the windshield is what I need to remove. Mr. MC have and tip's to share with me?

cbryan70
02-24-2010, 07:06 PM
I have one.....do NOT break the thing becuase they are EXPENSIVE to fix or find

thatsmrmastercraft
02-24-2010, 07:32 PM
Yes the windshield is what I need to remove. Mr. MC have and tip's to share with me?

On my '77, which I would assume is the same as yours, the bottom molding of the windshield frame has a channel in it with T-bolts sticking out the bottom. The bolts go through the decking and are fastened with lockwashers and nuts. This would be relatively easy to get at if the flotation was not sprayed under the deck preventing access. You will need to carefully remove enough insulation to get to the nuts. Using a 1/4 drive with the proper extensions and universal joint will get the job done. The bolts on the sides and behind the steering wheel are reasonably accessible. You will find the same flotation sprayed under the gunwhales and needing to remove just enough to get the job done.

Take out the seats if you haven't already and get ready to have some fun. and follow cbryan 70's advice about not breaking it. You won't find another one just laying around. If you do, grab it for me because I still need one.

And if your hands aren't beat up enough from all the work you have done, that old flotation foam will sand a few layers of skin off your hands.

Fight the urge to reinstall the windshield with nylock nuts. If you ever have to remove the windshield again, you will appreciate it.

Good luck. Let me know how it goes.

americanskierJim
02-24-2010, 07:53 PM
Hmmmm, with all that said I dont know if I want to break or mess anything up. You guy's have me gun shy. I might just let it go and clear coat around it and just mask it off. The gel coat on the inside is still good I will look more into it and let you know but more than likely I will let it be. Thanks for steering me in the right way.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-24-2010, 08:13 PM
The windshield is a chore to take out, but you would have to do something dumb in order to break it. I wouldn't be too worried. I know you aren't gun shy when it comes to work.

americanskierJim
02-24-2010, 08:30 PM
"BANG" didnt scare me.... LOL
I will take a look and see what I can do if it is going to be to much I will let it be and move on to the next thing on my LONG to do list.

americanskierJim
02-25-2010, 08:27 PM
I am all most ready to put the tranny on the motor so I can get that out of the way. I am not sure if the cover I have should look like this or should it be straight?

markismm
02-25-2010, 09:05 PM
It should not look like that. That is the cover for the starter solenoid breaker and so forth. It looks like it almost melted at some point in time. I replaced mine with a metal box that my brother and I fabricated. See pic below. Looks much better I think. I used the old cover as a liner to ensure no shorts on the new netal cover.

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u280/mandymaholick/DSC_4659.jpg

pkreusch
02-25-2010, 10:31 PM
Windshield on my '80 needed to come off as a result of three things that I think you should review:
1. The rubber seal between windshield and cap was cracked. Check if it needs to be replaced.
2. The windshield itself was loose as a result of item 1 above.
3. The mounting bolts had leaked water and rotted about 4" around each bolt in the wood backing that is embedded for the windshield mounts.

I had my cap searated from the hull and turned upside down to rewire the helm and reglassed as necessary while it was off. Not sure how you would repair the mountings if you need to unless you remove the cap. Hope all is good and tight. If so, count your blessings and trudge on Captain!!!

americanskierJim
02-25-2010, 11:12 PM
Thanks Mark, For the info on the cover your's look great. I guess I will have to to the steel shop and get some stainless and get the tig welder out and have some fun making a new one.

americanskierJim
02-25-2010, 11:25 PM
pkreusch, I was looking at it more indepth today. I am leaning more to just leaving it alone and just polish the dash area. The gel coat is in real good shape. and it will come back to life with some elbow grease. As my Dad said to me "Don't open a can of worm's". I can't agree more with him.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-25-2010, 11:52 PM
Removing the windshield isn't so much fun that you would want to go out of your way to do it. You could spend a lot of time and frustration on other projects.

americanskierJim
02-26-2010, 10:23 PM
I just had to put some things back on to see what there going to look like(pic at the bottom). I am also going to be putting new seals in the front and rear of the trans. before the install. I did some more painting on some of the other parts on the trans. Like the stick,trans cooler, motor mounts and trans mounts and control locks. I will have some pics soon.

americanskierJim
02-27-2010, 05:41 PM
Here is the trans all painted now just wating for the new seals and then on the motor . Then put the heart of the boat back in it.

Jorski
02-27-2010, 07:03 PM
wow...it's really crazy what some new paint can do !

Looks great!

americanskierJim
02-27-2010, 08:46 PM
Thanks Jorski, It sure is crazy and it looks good. I just hope that the paint will hold up for the summer or longer. This is the first boat motor I have sprayed with base/clear. But never the less for right now I will enjoy it.

Hoosier Bob
02-27-2010, 08:52 PM
Keep it clean! Use a wax no WD40!!! It will last!;)

Yes I wax! This house is clean!Thanks Jorski, It sure is crazy and it looks good. I just hope that the paint will hold up for the summer or longer. This is the first boat motor I have sprayed with base/clear. But never the less for right now I will enjoy it.

americanskierJim
02-27-2010, 10:47 PM
Wax sounds about right. I have never used WD-40 on automotive paint. I will give it a good coat of wax once a weekend or every other one.

pkreusch
02-28-2010, 02:46 PM
You're gonna need an avatar soon Jim.....
Tranny looks great!
Sounds like your windshield is solid. I wouldn't take it of either unless something is loose.
Great pics.
What's your ETA for getting the project afloat for it's inaugural tour?

americanskierJim
02-28-2010, 03:58 PM
Pkreusch, I know I will have to add avatar soon I might get one up today. I am not doing anything with the windshield at all. Mask around it just to spray some clear to make it shine again. For the inaugural tour looks like the end of may or the second week of June I hope. I am just taking my time getting it done and not rushing to get finish it.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-28-2010, 04:49 PM
Good choice to leave the windshield if nothing is wrong. Your painting efforts are really paying off. You must be well equiped and experienced in painting.

americanskierJim
02-28-2010, 04:54 PM
I am looking for 2 exhaust tips they can be plastic or stainless but they will have to be bullnose tips. The old tips I have are bad here is a pic's of one that came off the boat.

americanskierJim
02-28-2010, 05:09 PM
Good choice to leave the windshield if nothing is wrong. Your painting efforts are really paying off. You must be well equiped and experienced in painting.

MrMC, You can say both I own a body shop along with my Father. We do custom car's and restoration's to every day dents and ding's. I have been a painter with automotive paint (PPG)for 17 year's.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-28-2010, 05:13 PM
MrMC, You can say both I own a body shop along with my Father. We do custom car's and restoration's to every day dents and ding's. I have been a painter with automotive paint (PPG)for 17 year's.

Didn't think you were using rattle cans, but that explains why your work looks so good. :cool:

americanskierJim
02-28-2010, 05:38 PM
Thanks Mr.MC , LOL no rattle cans to paint the motor or the trans. Just alittle paint and a ton of clear to seal it up from the water. I put the motor mounts back on today I painted them black but I didnt take off the trans mounts I will have to paint them on the boat. It is comming along, next week I am going to get the wood for the floor and start cutting the patterns that I saved when I took off the old floor. I will have more pics of all the wood work soon.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-28-2010, 06:37 PM
At least I can live vicariously through you and the rest of the guys on this site until I get my boat back in town.

What is your choice of wood for the floor?

americanskierJim
02-28-2010, 08:29 PM
At least I can live vicariously through you and the rest of the guys on this site until I get my boat back in town.

What is your choice of wood for the floor?

I am going to go with marine plywood at least 7 ply or more. I can get it here from Michigan Lumber Company. I am not sure what it will cost per sheet I will give them a call in the morning.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-28-2010, 10:08 PM
I am going to go with marine plywood at least 7 ply or more. I can get it here from Michigan Lumber Company. I am not sure what it will cost per sheet I will give them a call in the morning.

I replaced the decking on the other boat (non-MC) last fall and used exterior grade plywood. Has the same adhesive just fewer layers. It was less than half the price, but I 'm not sure if I would have economized on my '77. On suggestion from a local marine shop http://www.shipwreckboats.com/contact.html I put two coats of urathane spar varnish on each side and four coats on the edges prior to carpetting.

Are you planning on glassing the marine plywood?

americanskierJim
02-28-2010, 11:21 PM
I was going to glass the wood in but I have been thinking about putting a pice of 2x2 around the border where the old wood glassed down. I would glass down the 2x2 so I could screw down the floor to it. I am thinking about going this way incase I would have a problem under the plywood then I can pull either side up to work on it.

thatsmrmastercraft
03-01-2010, 12:51 AM
The PO of my boat did a fine job of replacing the floor and carpet in my boat with the exception of using plated instead of stainless screws to secure the deck. Each piece was sealed prior to being carpetted. Stainless staples were used to fasten the carpet to the back of each panel. I'm happy that each time I need to take up the floor that it is such a simple job.

americanskierJim
03-04-2010, 09:16 PM
I off to get the wood for the floor in the morning. I am going with mahogany 4X8X3/4 sheet and cost $168.00 .I am going to pick up 2 of them and start to cut them up. I am going to use stainless screws to hold it down. I will have some pics posted tomorrow.

americanskierJim
03-05-2010, 04:52 PM
I got the wood today skip the $168 a sheet I went with a diffrent type of flooring cost was $60.87 a sheet. I got 2 sheets for the price of one of the other wood. We got it all cut and tomarrow I will be glassing them. I will have some pics later on today for you to see.

jakethebt
03-05-2010, 07:56 PM
What did you go with?

americanskierJim
03-05-2010, 09:51 PM
I went with FIR marine plywood. It will be more than what I need but it is alway's good to have more than not enough.

thatsmrmastercraft
03-05-2010, 10:28 PM
I went with FIR marine plywood. It will be more than what I need but it is alway's good to have more than not enough.

Sounds like a good choice. You never really know just how long you are going to keep the boat. I hadn't thought of it before, but a link to this thread would be a great selling point should that time come around.

americanskierJim
03-05-2010, 10:46 PM
Mr.MC you are so right I should keep a link to the thread. I was talking it over with my gal tonight if we should sell it when it is done or just keep it?? she said do what you feel what's right. So it might be up on the buyer's block soon. But for now I am going to enjoy it and keep pushing along to get it done. Looks like May is going to be the dead line to get it all wrapped up.

Sorry I didn't get any pic's today of the new cut floor. I will have some when I get the glass on them. I will be at the Hanger in the AM cutting and epoxying glass down.

pkreusch
03-05-2010, 11:27 PM
I noticed your post and you mentioned going to the "hanger". Are you a pilot by chance? It would certainly explain your attention to detail. I fly on occasion out of Sanford SFB Florida. I'm type rated in Cessna 152, 172, Piper Arrow, Cherokee, Cherokee Six, & Beech Super Musketeer. I also hold a Private poilt IFR rating. Any chance you have any good planes in your possesion you want to indulge us with?

americanskierJim
03-06-2010, 09:07 AM
Pkreusch, Sounds like you like to bore some holes in the sky too. I am a private pilot. I am part of the the chapter EEA 77 and I am with "3DA" Dalton, Flushing Club. I fly with the club planes. Piper cherokee 160, Tri Pacer 140, then I get to fly my friends planes from time to time. XP 172 Cessna and 150, I have also got to fly Bonaza V tail (owner in left seat)with 280hp what a rocket it was. I have been looking to buy my own plane for the last 3 years. I am so stuck on the Cessna172 it is a great all around bird.

americanskierJim
03-06-2010, 04:00 PM
Here is the foor all done. This week will be prefitting it in the boat.I just put the resin on the wood I was going to put the glass down but I didnt do it. The wood should hold up for along time with them sealed up.

jdubwall
03-06-2010, 05:37 PM
Looks Great!!!! What type of wood did you end up using instead of mahogany? I am working on a project boat this winter; 85 "Prostar 200" and i need to replace the wood flooring between the two fiberglass stringers. Not sure what to use as of right now... Just trying to get some imput from anyone who's done it.... Thanks.. btw i like your thread... it looks great!!!

americanskierJim
03-06-2010, 08:34 PM
I went with FIR marine plywood . It will be more than what I need but it is alway's good to have more than not enough.
Thanks jdubwall, It is great plywood for the floor. I was lucky the old floor was still in good shape to make the cuts off from them. I am glad you like it as many ppl on here do. I like all the help I have been getting and interest in the project. Hope some of the work will help out other's when they have questions about there boat.

americanskierJim
03-06-2010, 10:37 PM
I got the floor layed out in the boat. I guess you can see by the pic's I coated the wrong side on 3 of them it is ok I will mix some more resin and coat them. I also got the front seats in to see what they look like in the boat. It is comming along.

JLeuck64
03-07-2010, 12:43 AM
Most definitely... take the time to coat both sides of the floor pieces with resin! It will be way better than new!

Sodar
03-07-2010, 12:46 AM
Most definitely... take the time to coat both sides of the floor pieces with resin! It will be way better than new!

X2! Do it once and do it well!

Coming along very nice, Jim!

Kyle
03-07-2010, 07:42 AM
Looks good.

Cant wait to see more pics and progress. Keep up the good work.

americanskierJim
03-07-2010, 06:40 PM
JL,Sodar & Kyle Thank you. I did recoat the other side of the floor today. Still a bit tacky I should have them all in tonight. I am going to drill some pilot holes for the stainless screws. Every floor pice will beable to come off. I was going to get the motor in it this week I just rememberd I need to get the damper plate. I will have to make a phone call in the morning and get one here. I will have more pic's tonight.

thatsmrmastercraft
03-07-2010, 07:38 PM
Hey, its looking more like a boat and less like a sandbox. Looks like good work on the floor.

americanskierJim
03-07-2010, 10:45 PM
Coated the other side of the floor to day. and I put the rudder back on. Hope I don't have to take it back off to get the shaft back in . I also put the rear seat in to see how it looks. I have to trim it and it will be good.

ntidsl
03-08-2010, 10:28 AM
I am so jealous. This looks like so much fun!!! Keep posting I check in every day to watch!