PDA

View Full Version : I'd like to upload an image cause I can't find this


stu
12-03-2009, 03:55 PM
Hi Team Talk,

My boat: ’05 X2 5.7L RPT-1

Hope everyone's well. Can't remember how to, but I wanted to upload an image from the pdf of the 2005 Mastercraft Owners Manual which corresponds to the following text:

ALL ENGINES
Step 1: Drain water from the exhaust manifolds. Uncouple the hose quick-disconnect and drain the manifolds. A small brass screw-in plug located on the manifolds must also be removed.
...........................................
This is the first real step for winterizing the engine. Yes I'm stuck on the first step! I can't find this small brass screw-in plug!

I'll be putting a heater on the boat tonight. I'm sure I'll have other issues since it'll be the first winterization done myself. I changed the oil and transmis fluids/filter myself this fall. I'll forgo fogging the carb/throttle body for now.

I know there's a lot on winterization in previous threads, but it mostly assumes you know where everything is. The steps seem relatively few and easy to acomplish simply protecting the engine from cracking due to water freeze. It just a matter of finding what you're looking for in the engine compartment!

Help!:confused::o

Chicago190
12-03-2009, 04:56 PM
Edit: I've never heard of this.

stu
12-03-2009, 05:13 PM
Yes these instructions seem, I don't know, not as completely helpful as they could be. I think it must be the upper picture of the two overlapping pictures on the left. I've already removed the raw water impeller.

I'm also instructed to disconnect several hoses which are hard to identify. These hoses are always connected tightly when I get my boat back from dealer after winterization. What gives?

Thank you for any help.:o

Jim@BAWS
12-03-2009, 05:24 PM
"ALL ENGINES
Step 1: Drain water from the exhaust manifolds. Uncouple the hose quick-disconnect and drain the manifolds. A small brass screw-in plug located on the manifolds must also be removed. "

There is a BRASS plug on the block and the opposite side has a KNOCK sensor

Did you possibly get that confused?


Jim@BAWS

stu
12-03-2009, 05:32 PM
"ALL ENGINES
Step 1: Drain water from the exhaust manifolds. Uncouple the hose quick-disconnect and drain the manifolds. A small brass screw-in plug located on the manifolds must also be removed. "

There is a BRASS plug on the block and the opposite side has a KNOCK sensor

Did you possibly get that confused?


Jim@BAWS

Thanks for the help Jim. I think you are referring to Step 1 of RAW WATER- COOLED ENGINES (also pictured above), and I'm unfortunately not there yet. It says, "Remove the drain plug on the port side and knock sensor from the starboard side of the engine to allow for the remainder of the water draining function."

I haven't found this either. Yikes!:confused::o

stu
12-03-2009, 06:08 PM
It seems there are only 5 VERY SIMPLE steps (below) to preventing any damage to my engine due to freezing temperature. Is this right?

Some of these steps may even be superfluous. Are they? Do I need to use forced air (by compressor or lung power?). Antifreeze? There is certainly no mention of it in the official winterizing instructions I've referenced. I've read on other threads that you don't need antifreeze, RV or other. I don't think they use antifreeze at the dealer, but I'm not absolutely sure.

I know there are many other year-end maintenance requirements. I'm just talking about the most important one: engine protection from freezing H2O.

ALL ENGINES
Step 1: Drain water from the exhaust manifolds. Uncouple the hose quick-disconnect and drain the manifolds. A small brass screw-in plug located on the manifolds must also be removed.

Step 2: Remove both hoses from the raw water pump on the front of the engine. Drain any remaining water from the hoses.

Step 3: Remove the raw water pump impeller from the pump housing.

RAW WATER- COOLED ENGINES

Step 1: Remove the drain plug on the port side and knock sensor from the starboard side of the engine to allow for the remainder of the water draining function.

Notice: Some 5.7 Liter engines have a knock sensor lo- cated in the drain location. The knock sensor must be care- fully removed to drain that side of the block.

Step 3: Disconnect the large diameter hose that runs from the water circulating pump to the thermostat housing. Make sure all of the water drains from the hose.

The problem is I can cut and paste the salient instructions a lot easier than I can find the hoses and plugs to actually accomplish the supposedly easy 5 steps.

mccobmd
12-03-2009, 07:33 PM
Stu, I feel for you, but your frustation coupled with my ineptitude are reasons I spent $300 each year for my dealer to winterize. Good luck.

ahhudgins
12-03-2009, 09:12 PM
I hope I'm right, but I've done the same procedure on all of my Mastercrafts over the last 25 years. Run the engine with a garden hose attached to the inlet hose until it reaches operating temperature. Shut off engine and drain all hoses, drain the block by opening the valve (or plug) on one side of the block and the knock sensor (or plug) on the other side of the block. Drain the exhaust manifolds by removing the two plugs and then install all plugs and hoses. I have two 5 gallon buckets filled with 50/50 mix of anti freeze and water. Start the engine and stick the hose from the impeller into the bucket(s) until all the anti freeze is gone. I've heard of people just draining the block and not using anit freeze, I thought it would leave a lot of deposits and rust if anti freeze wasn't put back into the engine?

ahhudgins
12-03-2009, 09:24 PM
After reading your post again, I guess your main problem is finding the two plugs in the block? If you're not a "do-it-yourselfer", I'm sure you can find a friend/neighbor/family member who know their way around an engine. On the block of the engine, which is below the heads, there is a brass drain or plug on each side. Some engines will have a drain or plug on one side, and a knock sensor on the opposite side of the block. I've already put the cover on mine, an extra tarp and backed it into the shed so I can't post any pictures. I'm sure there are lot of guys here who can get into more detail.

Jerseydave
12-03-2009, 10:01 PM
Look just above where the oil pan bolts up to the block and you will see the knock sensor with one wire on one side of engine, and a brass plug on the other. (unless your boat has a hot water shower, in that case there is no brass plug but a red hose instead) Drain water out of block by removing these items. Remove the connector from the knock sensor by squeezing the plastic connector, then remove sensor using a 7/8" socket. (usually on the port side)

stu
12-04-2009, 01:24 PM
My boat: ’05 X2 5.7L RPT-1

(unless your boat has a hot water shower, in that case there is no brass plug but a red hose instead)

Thank you all very much for your help. Yes I have a shower and red hose. It connects on the port side of the block. That was throwing me off. I also found the brass plug also on the starboard side on the block. Is this plug the knock sensor? It's just a brass screw plug, so not sure,"Remove the connector from the knock sensor by squeezing the plastic connector," applies to me njskier.

I've got space heaters to keep the boat warm. I think I'm gonna do it right and put the pink RV antifreeze in it. Need to do the same for shower, heater, and ballasts. So I'll be reading old threads like mad!

Strangely, the head of the lower yellow arrow disappeared overnight from the copy of the pdf owner's manual I posted above. I'm reposting it to show that the picture is, well, confusing.

Thank everyone again for the replies:).

stu
12-04-2009, 07:54 PM
Ok, it's been a long day, and I'm just going from bad to worse.

I got home with 9 gallons of the pink RV antifreeze for tomorrow's project (extra AF for just in case), and I just thought I'd run her a little to make sure everything was okay. Hooked up the fake-a-lake and started her up.

20-25 seconds later I remembered that although I hadn't actually removed the impeller, I had taken the 4-bolt lid off the impeller housing and hadn't put it back on. Instantly turn it off, put lid back on impeller with a new gasket, not overtight, but snug with new gasket. Started her back up.

20 seconds later I remember I hadn't re-coupled the hose quick disconnect pictured just above (bottom arrow in my last post). A very small stream of rusty-looking water was coming out one of the hoses. Immediately turn off of engine.

Reconnect the hoses. Restart the engine let it run for a while. Then rev the engine slightly and let it run. I turn the heater on to make sure its working. It seems to blow kinda warm at first then 5 minutes later it seems to be blowing cold. Engine runs 15 minutes maybe and the overheat alarm goes off and I do an immediate shut off.

I check all hoses and whatnot I can think of and wait a few minutes til the engine temp returns down to 160 and try it again. Don't turn on the heater. In 5 minutes the temp has climbed and I turn it off just as the temp alarm sounds.

The boat is fairly well tilted back on an incline.

I noticed that when checking underneath the boat, while running the engine, not all the water was being sucked from the fake-a-lake, as it usually does when I've run it before. Some water was coming out b/w the plunger and the boat.

I don't think the impeller could be damaged that quick with the back off the impeller housing, so is it likely an air-lock of some kind? Or maybe the impeller is seized and needs some grease? No if it was seized it would have overheated quicker I think.

Ridicule me freely but please don't tell me to take it to the dealer b/c I am determined (at this point!) to learn how to do this myself, at least once. They should use me in a Mastercraft ad as to why you should let them handle the service!

Soliciting any ideas as to the overheat problem.

Thank you in advance.
Stu

bturner2
12-05-2009, 10:15 AM
When I get in these situations I typically start by getting everything back to stable state. If at all possible don't start working on the boat until you have all the parts you'll need to complete the job. There are a ton of posts with a complete bill of materials for winterizing your boat on this site. Also if at all possible schedule your time so you can comfortably complete the entire job. As you have found out leaving the boat in a unknown state only leads to problems.

I prefer not to use the RV "cherry juice" and opt to use a marine specific antifreeze that has corrosion inhibitors added. You can get this at Boat US or West Marine. I'm sure there are other places that sell it also. But what you decide to use is up to you.

Not sure what's going on with your impeller so get rid of the one currently installed an replace with a new one.

Next check that ALL hoses are installed and properly tightened. Make sure that all the plugs have been reinstalled (the two exhaust manifolds and the two on the block. In your case you'll have the shower hose and the knock sensor or brass plug depending on the model).

Make sure that the check valve from the water inlet in the hull (what you attached your fake a lake to) is fully open (the valve lever should be completely vertical). Ensure the accessory belt on the engine is properly tightened.

Unless you've been randomly loosening or taking other items off the engine this should get you back to a good starting point.

Next check to see how much water is actually flowing out of your fake a lake. If the pressure is low here it'll be real low in the boat. A kinked or restrictive garden hose will not provide enough flow to properly cool the engine. I'm not a bid fan of the "fake a lake" as I'm always worried that the seal is not good and too much water is getting by the hull inlet. I made my own "fake a Lake" with a PVC elbow, a PVC shut off valve and couple hose fittings. Big Mac has a post out there somewhere on the one he made also. I like this better than the "fake a lake" because it connects directly to the inlet hose going to the fresh water pump and all the water goes directly into the engine (no blow by like you're seeing).

If all this checks out you should be set. If you're still having problems after all this you may want to go to the dealer before the high temp seriously damages the engine.

stu
12-05-2009, 02:42 PM
bturner2 thank you for your advice. Yes the fake a lake has it's pitfalls, although they use them at my dealer. Anyway got the overheating problem solved. Everybody's been great. Thrall was nice enough to PM me and he pointed out, among MANY other things, not to turn the spigot on to the fake a lake on till immediately AFTER starting engine, (and make the plunger fit tight so it's depressed a bit). I did this right this summer, but forgot it. Now its sucking all the water properly and no overheating. (I guess once the water starts flowing out b/w the plunger and the hull it's hard to change the flow's direction. 5-10 sec dry running won't hurt anything, evidently.

Now that I'm back to square one, I'll proceed with the winterization.

ps, I did have one additional mishap, but I'll bring that up later if I can't solve it myself.

Thank you chicago, jimbaws, mcco, ahhuggins, njskier, bturner2, and especially thrall. Your support is truly appreciated and thanks for not ridiculing me, even though I deserve it. Merry Holidays to you all!

stu
12-05-2009, 07:48 PM
My boat: ’05 X2 5.7L RPT-1

Here's what I did. While running the engine for 45 min with a large size Stabil added to 3/4 tank of gas I winterized the ballasts, shower, and heater. Ballast were frustrating, but that's another subject.

I turned the engine off and removed threaded bolt attached to the red hose for the shower, and removed the threaded bolt on the other side of the engine block and drained block from both sides.

I then disconnected the raw water hose and filled it w/ AF and I put the end of the hose in a bucket w/ 6-7 gallons of AF and started the engine and sucked it all up and shut off the engine.

I did NOT "Drain water from the exhaust manifolds. Uncouple the hose quick-disconnect and drain the manifolds."

I also never found this: "A small brass screw-in plug located on the manifolds must also be removed. " This was the subject of my original post, "stuck on step one."

Is the exhaust manifold gonna crack this winter? I will put heat on it again tonight. I can easily do a redo tomorrow w/ more AF if I can find this: "small brass screw-in plug located on the manifolds must also be removed."

There is a certain satisfaction that comes with doing things yourself, there's also often a certain pain in your ***. The edit of the innocuous three-letter word is not my own but was done automatically by a puritanical website editor program.

Chicago190
12-05-2009, 11:54 PM
Did you have antifreeze coming out of the exhaust by the time you were done? If so, then the exhaust manifolds should be filled with anti-freeze, at least enough to prevent them from freezing. If it were me, and depending on how anal you are, I would consider disconnecting the quick-connect between the manifolds to see if antifreeze comes out. If it does, then maybe suck a few more gallons of AF in, but you're probably safe without doing this.

I would also change the oil and fog the engine, if you haven't done so. Remove each spark plug, spray fogging oil into the cylinder for 2-3 seconds, reinstall plug, pull the kill switch, and crank the engine over for 5 secs. to disperse the oil around the cylinder and coat the cylinder walls.

stu
12-06-2009, 11:10 AM
Thanks Chicago,

Correction: I sucked only about 4 and a half gallons in thru the raw water intake (not 6 or 7 gallons like I said before).

I've already changed the oil&trans, but I'll do the fogging and other steps you recommend. While I'm at it I'll probably disconnect the quick connect b/w the manifolds, drain it and reconnect and run some more AF in.
Did you have antifreeze coming out of the exhaust by the time you were done?

Yes, I put big clear plastic tubs to catch it. About a gallon and a half of the pink stuff came out port, maybe a quart starboard. Humm? Does than disparity seem okay? :confused:

If I decide not to put any more AF in, wouldn't it be a good idea to disconnect the manifold hoses quick connect anyway, and let it drain and either a) reattach or b) leave unconnected?

Thank you.

Chicago190
12-06-2009, 12:24 PM
Thanks Chicago,

Correction: I sucked only about 4 and a half gallons in thru the raw water intake (not 6 or 7 gallons like I said before).

I've already changed the oil&trans, but I'll do the fogging and other steps you recommend. While I'm at it I'll probably disconnect the quick connect b/w the manifolds, drain it and reconnect and run some more AF in.


Yes, I put big clear plastic tubs to catch it. About a gallon and a half of the pink stuff came out port, maybe a quart starboard. Humm? Does than disparity seem okay? :confused:

If I decide not to put any more AF in, wouldn't it be a good idea to disconnect the manifold hoses quick connect anyway, and let it drain and either a) reattach or b) leave unconnected?

Thank you.

Not sure about the disparity in anti-freeze between port and starboard. I wouldn't worry about it.

If AF was coming out of the exhaust, then the manifolds definitely have AF in them. The only issue is if it is too dilute because of the water that was in the manifolds from running it earlier. The answer is you are almost certainly fine, especially since you are in the southeast, where the temperature doesn't get down into the negative numbers for long periods of time. On the other hand, it will only cost you $10 and 20 mins. to drain the manifolds and suck in 3 more gallons of AF.

If you do add more AF, just drain the manifolds from the quick connect, then reconnect it and run the engine with your bucket of AF.

stu
12-08-2009, 11:21 AM
On the other hand, it will only cost you $10 and 20 mins. to drain the manifolds and suck in 3 more gallons of AF.

I did it.

Remove each spark plug, spray fogging oil into the cylinder for 2-3 seconds, reinstall plug, pull the kill switch, and crank the engine over for 5 secs. to disperse the oil around the cylinder and coat the cylinder walls.

I'll do it.

Thanks again to Chicago, Thrall, and everybody.:)

Kingsley X-1
12-09-2009, 06:12 AM
hate to be an a$$, but man i am so glad that i live in Florida and all i have to do is put a drop light in the engine compartment about two times a year. I honestly feel bad you guys go through this PITA process every year.