View Full Version : 07 Indmar 350: can I fog cylinders though spark plug holes?

11-22-2009, 03:18 PM
Winterization question: My 07 Maristar, 350 Indmar is stored inside a insulated shop. Will be heated also.
For winterization, I just drained the exhaust manifold with the quick disconnect and would like to fog the cylinders by taking out the spark plugs. Is this ok?
The only other items I plan on doing is stabilizing the fuel and disconnecting batteries.

I see no point in changing the oil or replacing the fuel filter until spring. But I can be swayed....

Any input is appreciated. Thanks!

11-22-2009, 03:40 PM
Yes, you can fog through the spark plug holes. Spray into each plug hole for a few seconds and then rotate then engine for a few seconds with the kill switch removed to coat the cylinder walls. However, at some point MC made it so the engine would not turn over at all with the kill switch removed. You may need to rotate the engine by hand or find some other way to get the fogging oil to coat the cylinder completely.

You should change the oil before storing if you intend to do it in the spring. Oil that is more than a few hours old will have corrosive combustion byproducts, which can cause damage if it is not changed. Fuel filter can be done in the spring.

In addition, you only mentioned draining the exhaust manifolds. Make sure to drain the block as well. One side will have a plug and the other side will drain when you remove the knock sensor. Also, if your boat has a shower, heater, or ballast these will need to be drained and most people fill them with RV antifreeze because it can be difficult to get all the water out.

11-22-2009, 05:33 PM
Ok, was trying to avoid starting it up because I do not have a way to hook it up to a hose. Plus, it seems my freshwater p/u must be under my trailer rails, because they are not visible. Is there anyway to tap into the freshwater hose with a "T" to hook a hose up to? Looks like the only easy way for me to get the engine up to temp would be to launch it.

Also, Is draining the block only necessary if there is a chance of freezing or are there other reasons to drain the block?

Thanks for your help.


11-22-2009, 05:45 PM
I agree, far smarter to change the oil in the fall instead of the winter so that the water, acids and other combustion byproducts don't sit in your engine over the winter.

Lot's of ways to run water to the engine from a garden hose. Do a search here on "Flush Pro". That device is the most commonly used, although IMHO it's not the best solution. Look at this thread (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=30899&highlight=flush) for example.

11-22-2009, 06:00 PM
Thanks Bigmac. Did you notice that I mentioned my water p/u must be under my trailer rails? What I do for that? Jack the boat up off the trailer?



11-22-2009, 06:05 PM
Nevermind... I see it is a tapping device. I would edit/delete the last post but can't figure out how.

Thanks again.

11-22-2009, 06:53 PM
The cheap way is to disconnect the raw water intake hose from the through hull, stick it into a 5 gallon bucket, and turn your garden hose on to keep the bucket filled.

If the garage is heated then it isn't necessary to drain the block or the manifolds. A lot of people that store in heated garages do a full winterization in case there is an issue and their heat shuts off. The benefits are guaranteed freeze protection and any silt or dirt that has accumulated will get flushed out. The downside is it takes a couple hours.

11-23-2009, 04:41 PM
Much appreciated!

11-23-2009, 04:53 PM
My 06 and 07 boats would crank with kill switch pulled. My 09 will not.

I removed the coil wire after fogging to crank it over instead.

The 07' will have two knock sensors. 1" stubby wrench is the best way to attack these two. Doesn't hurt to drain the transmission cooler as well - good time to clean that grate from debris. Also pull the hose off the side of engine water circulation pump. That will drain the hose and the pump.

When bumping over the starter to fog the cylinders, that's a great time to pull the impeller as well. Unless you know for certain you are discarding it in the spring, then you can just leave it in for the winter and replace it in the spring. Doesn't matter, it's junk anyways.

I spray some soapy water in mine with the plate removed, then I bump it over after fogging. Spray some more soap in, bump it over. Then my cylinders are fogged, and my impeller comes out easy. Insert new one in spring - or that one if it is in perfect condition.

Also - the pickup hose in a bucket routine doesn't always work so simply. Sometimes the pump will lose it's prime, so just be ready for this and pay attention.

Oil change in the fall as others have said.

Good luck!