PDA

View Full Version : Grease Tower Bolts


davomaddo
10-26-2009, 10:15 PM
I had some serious corrosion on my tower bolts after a year of use - in salt water.
MC or whoever assemble the tower didn't think of greasing the bolts, and I didn't either - until I tried to take the tower down at the end of summer to put the boat in storage. The bolts at the base were super corroded and wouldn't budge.

I had to take it to the dealer and they ended up replacing one of the base parts of the tower - because they couldn't even get the bolt out.

In the future, I will be greasing those bolts and loosening them up more than once a year.

I don't know if this would be an issue in fresh water.

Anyone making a list of things to do to maintain their boat in salt water, should add greasing tower bolts to the list.

Sodar
10-26-2009, 10:20 PM
I had some serious corrosion on my tower bolts after a year of use - in salt water.
MC or whoever assemble the tower didn't think of greasing the bolts, and I didn't either - until I tried to take the tower down at the end of summer to put the boat in storage. The bolts at the base were super corroded and wouldn't budge.

I had to take it to the dealer and they ended up replacing one of the base parts of the tower - because they couldn't even get the bolt out.

In the future, I will be greasing those bolts and loosening them up more than once a year.

I don't know if this would be an issue in fresh water.

Anyone making a list of things to do to maintain their boat in salt water, should add greasing tower bolts to the list.

Greasing is good. Using anti-sease is better. The stainless bolts and aluminum tower will weld themselves together over time by galvanic corrosion... salt water only exacerbates the issue.

Thrall
10-27-2009, 08:56 AM
Fortunately I don't have to worry about the tower bolts here, and one came out on it's own on my new boat! ($50 knob!), but if your worried about bolts welding themselves in, check out the trailer.
Wheel lugs, brake caliper bolts and sleeves were already sticky on my '06 that never saw salt or humidity and only was in the lake a dozen times. Could be a cause of some of the brake problems, sticking because the calipers can't float like they should.

bobx1
10-27-2009, 12:00 PM
I used to spray my saltwater fishing boat down with this stuff (fasteners, cables, engine, etc.):

http://www.corrosionx.com/marine.html

I think you can purchase at West Marine.

davomaddo
10-27-2009, 12:49 PM
Yes,
I use the corrosion X as well. However, I didn't think about removing the bolts. I was actually worried about them becoming loose.
When I get some time this winter, I will work on the trailer - good idea.

funk
10-27-2009, 02:58 PM
Mine are welded together as we speak from this issue. I will be taking on the task of removing them very soon. Other than the obvious penetrating oil, 3 in 1, etc, any suggestions of what to use to try and get them to back out?

The bimini brackets that are attached to the tower also have the same issue. That should be much easier if the knob bolts break, just cut them and easy-out!

Miss Rita
10-27-2009, 03:12 PM
Other than the obvious penetrating oil, 3 in 1, etc, any suggestions of what to use to try and get them to back out?

Using an impact wrench is better than a breaker bar. Lots of smaller jolts to the bolt is less likely to cause a problem than a long sustained twist.

88 PS190
10-27-2009, 05:52 PM
I would try an impact driver.

http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/screwdrivers/28k0290s1.jpg

You find a tight fitting bit, and you preload the driver a smidge, and then smack it with a hammer.

By hitting it with a hammer you are driving the bit into the hardware, shocking the threads which breaks corrosion, and turning it out.

There is a cam inside the driver that forces the bit to turn.

This is how people get old motorcycles apart with out stripping the screw heads. Works great for any fastener.

Pretret as best as possible with something like Breakfree CLP or pb blaster. Keep it off your hull, and try to keep it off the surface of the metal.

funk
10-28-2009, 12:05 PM
Thanks. What I have is going to be a stainless steel bolt with nylon knob, going through the tower eyebolt(which shouldn't be a problem), and fastening into the aluminum mount attached to the boat. This is an aftermarket tower. After pre-treating, I was planning on making a tool to fasten to the knob, and try to unfasten either with a ratchet or impact.

davomaddo
10-28-2009, 03:18 PM
I am not sure I understand exacty what you are dealing with.

On mine, there was a nob attached to the screw. I took a wrench to the nob, and the nob simply came off. Then it was just threads of a screw.
People recommended putting 2 nuts on the screw and then take a wrench to those nuts.

I am not sure if this helps you or not.
The dealer tried the 2 nut trick but that didn't work either - so they had to replace the hole base.

funk
10-28-2009, 05:18 PM
Alright, gotcha. I don't actually remember when I put it on whether the knob was male(bolt embedded) or female with a threaded rod inserted. I will have to discover that this weekend. Thanks again for the advice. Sorry to threadjack.