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View Full Version : Winterziation Checklist on 06 X-Star


magnum
10-25-2009, 09:37 PM
hated to do it to day but had to Winterize the boat, has anyone else winterized an 8.1L engine . Here was my check list, anyone else do other things ?

1. ran the engine up to temp and drained the oil and changed the filter
2. drained the block by removing drain plug on one side and disconnecting hot water shower hose on the other
3. removed impeller and disconnected both hoses to pump
4. disconnected waterhose connection on rear of engine
5. disconnected hose and removed plug on transmission cooler
6. disconnected heater hoses on heater core and drained
7. pumped rv antifreeze thru hot water shower
8. pumped rv antifreeze thru the 3 ballast pumps

vision
10-26-2009, 08:56 AM
You likely did this, but make sure to pump RF antifreeze through the heater core as well. Stabilize the fuel in the tank.

Depending on your hours and whether you have your MC dealer also service the boat during the year, you may want to consider changing the transmission oil and filter and fuel pump filter. Not a winterizing item, but something that is recommended every 100 hours or so and often done at the time of winterization.

magnum
10-26-2009, 09:20 PM
Well I disconnected both hoses on the heater core and blew the water out with an air compressor but I will go back and pump some RV antifreeze in there, also have to change the transmission fluid

TOO-TALL
10-26-2009, 09:44 PM
If you blow the water out of the heater core then reattach the lines to the motor.Then when you punp antifreeze threw the motor don't you think it will be pumped into the heater core too???

Eagle Lake Rebel
10-26-2009, 10:25 PM
Don't forget your ballast tanks.

magnum
10-26-2009, 10:59 PM
Too Tall, I disconnected the hoses to the heater core and blew all the water out, I have already drained the block, is there a need to put all hoses back on and fill block with antifreeze?

Eagle Lake , I took off cap near junction box behind engine and put a funnel in and poured RV antifreeze in and turned on each pump and pumped antifreeze out drain holes plus poured some in each tank also

TOO-TALL
10-26-2009, 11:04 PM
Too Tall, I disconnected the hoses to the heater core and blew all the water out, I have already drained the block, is there a need to put all hoses back on and fill block with antifreeze?

Some people leave the motor"Dry" I like to run the motor and have it suck up 4-5 gallons of antifreeze just to be on the safe side of things

TOO-TALL
10-26-2009, 11:12 PM
Also if there is any water left in the motor it can rust.If you pump antifreeze threw the motor it will flush out the water.

prostar205
10-27-2009, 12:33 AM
How are you guys pumping antifreeze into the block? What is the mixture rate (antifreeze/water)?

vision
10-27-2009, 12:45 AM
As Too-Tall states, some folks use anti-freeze and some do not. Like Magnum, I do not pump anti-freeze in my block. But having a heater core crack last year even after blowing it out (clearly not well enough) I run AF into the heater core. Those darn heater cores crack easily.

Our local shops do pump anti-freeze into the block and the entire cooling system. They do it so they can re-install the block plugs and leave the cooling system ready to go for the user to simply drop in the water in the Spring.

TOO-TALL
10-27-2009, 08:51 PM
How are you guys pumping antifreeze into the block? What is the mixture rate (antifreeze/water)?

No mixing!!
Go to Auto zone and buy 5 gallons of RV/Marine antifreeze.Pour it into a 5 gallon bucket then put your raw water pump hose in the bucket start boat and the motor will suck up the antifreeze.
You might have to pour AF in the raw water pump hose so the impeller can "prime" its self.

When bucket is empty your all done......

magnum
10-28-2009, 11:58 PM
do you do this when the engine is cold ? I assume it will not pump it thru the engine till the thermostat opens up and then it will come out the exhaust , correct ? or do you already have the engine heated up with just water first ?

McDye
10-29-2009, 08:23 AM
You would want it up to operating temp so the thermosat is open then suck in the antifreeze...others it will waste alot of antifreeze

MattsCraft
10-29-2009, 08:30 AM
-I did it like this. After chainging the oil, impeller etc. MCX/X2
-Ran the boat up to temp.
-Drained the block, both sides, drained the exhaust at the quick connect coupler.
-By the time I did all this, water temp is now @ 120
-Ran the boat using the perko flush pro this year and 5 gallons of RV green(-100), diluted 50% with warm water (5 gallons with the perko sucked down in no time)

-So the question is with regard to the thermostat (160), do I have antifreeze everywhere?
-I started to pull the plug on one side of the block, green antifreeze is there
-I also, pulled the heater hose at the top (where the hose shut off is) and poured another1/2 gallon of RV there and pumped preasure on it with a shop vac.

This is exactly how I did it last year except with fake a lake, took a little longer and don't remember the water temp and all was fine. I did have a very good stream of antifreeze rolling out of the exhaust flaps! All this question about the thermostat, makes me wonder??? Do I have antifreeze in the entire system? What is the flow, if antifreeze is in the block and water temp was 120 meaning thermostat is closed, how did antifreeze get in the block???

BUSSTUFJ
11-02-2009, 07:19 AM
Magnum,

I think there is a samll drain plug on the bottom of the exhaust that runs horizontal to the stern as well. If you ran the enigine and got the antifreze in there you are fine. If not you can pull that plug to drain any water laying in the exhaust. It was on the port side,

How is the boat running - you have to love the 8.1!

magnum
11-02-2009, 09:56 PM
Hello Jim

I did see a plug on the front of each exhaust but it was on the top where I did not think water would drain out, I did take off the cross over garden hose that drained each exhaust but I will ck it again , the dealer did not take these plugs out the first year I had it, I did it myself this year just due to timing and busy with work . We are Loving this boat so MUCH! Great times with the family and friends and yes the 8.1 is just music to my ears. we added one of the Z5 sport tops to it and really like it

Chicago190
11-02-2009, 10:25 PM
I would remove each spark plug, spray fogging oil into the cylinder for 2-3 seconds, reinstall spark plugs, and then crank the engine over with the kill switch pulled for 5 seconds.

MattsCraft
11-03-2009, 09:22 AM
I would remove each spark plug, spray fogging oil into the cylinder for 2-3 seconds, reinstall spark plugs, and then crank the engine over with the kill switch pulled for 5 seconds.

I see this metioned all the time "Kill Switch" On my boat ('09) if you pull the lanyard, nothing happens when you turn the key! Engine will not crank, entire ignition is dead????

Chicago190
11-03-2009, 12:23 PM
I see this metioned all the time "Kill Switch" On my boat ('09) if you pull the lanyard, nothing happens when you turn the key! Engine will not crank, entire ignition is dead????

Well it isn't absolutely necessary to turn the engine over. If there is a way to turn the engine over by hand you could do that. There might also be a fuse that you could pull to to stop spark and fuel.

WAKEPILOT12
11-04-2009, 01:23 AM
I would agree. i winterize boats at the local MC dealer here and leaving the motor drained is a bad idea. And yes, when you pump the anti-freeze through the motor, it does circulate through the heat core also. We have a hose which is the same size that fits on the raw water impeller and put the other end in a bucket. Fill it with anti-freeze, start and run the engine until the bucket is empty, shut it off, put the hoses back on and your done...

WAKEPILOT12
11-04-2009, 01:25 AM
Sorry Too-Tall...i need to read all the posts before posting....guess thats why they have the term FNG? haha

WAKEPILOT12
11-04-2009, 07:44 PM
Sorry Too-Tall...i need to read all the posts before posting....guess thats why they have the term FNG? haha