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Todd Brosius
10-24-2009, 11:21 PM
Is it important to run the motor and get it up to temp before draining and winterizing or can you just drain your motor correctly and then begin pumping antifreeze? Any truth that the motor must be warm so the thermostat opens or not an issue to worry about? I know to stabil the fuel properly it needs to run but besides that can I just drain the engine and then fog down thru the air intake while pumping antifreeze? Thanks for the input.

Chicago190
10-25-2009, 12:13 AM
Some people say it doesn't matter if the thermostat is open or not. I don't take any chances and I just remove the thermostat and then do the antifreeze. It is almost certainly 100% unnecessary to do this because draining the block and manifolds properly is sufficient to prevent cracking the block. The only real purpose to using antifreeze is it prevents the impeller from drying out if you don't replace it every spring. In my case, I also like to have the piece of mind that even if there is a little water left in the block after draining, it won't matter because the block is also filled with antifreeze. This is important for me because my boat is stored in an unheated garage in Northern Wisconsin.

east tx skier
10-25-2009, 12:16 PM
I recall JimN saying that running the engine gets some of the contaminants in the oil into suspension, making their removal with the oil more likely.

That aside, even if the antifreeze has properties that are beneficial to the impeller, if you're not going to replace it in the spring, I'd vote for taking it out. Moist or not, if it sits in one position for that length of time, the vanes will become formed to the odd shape of the pump housing and the impeller will, as a result, be a less efficient water mover.

I've started using antifreeze in the last few years for whatever anticorrosion benefits it may yield.

bigmac
10-25-2009, 12:32 PM
For the last three seasons, I've had my dealer winterize my boat. I'm not sure of the details, but their process is "pickling" the engine with -100 propylene glycol. The rationale is that it takes less time, prevents or decreases corrosion, allows for immediate return to the water in the spring, and keeps the impeller healthier. They tell me it's typical for impellers to go 3-5 years using this method. I haven't changed mine in three years, I'm curious to see how long it will go.

Jerseydave
10-25-2009, 07:54 PM
I just winterized 2 boats this weekend by doing this:

Run engine, bring up to operating temp
change oil and filter
run engine again and bring to operating temp
drain block, manifolds, trans cooler
run engine and allow -60 marine anti-freeze to be drawn into engine (3 gallons)
remove spark plugs and fog engine thru spark plug holes (MCX and LTR)

*I was told not to fog these engine thru the intake plenum as it can cause a coating to form inside the alum plenum and intake* Not sure if there is alot of truth to that, but it's almost as easy to fog thru the spark plug holes anyway.

If equipped with a heater, I remove the 2 heater hoses at the engine and blow air thru one of them until water is removed from heater core. Then I pour antifreeze into one hose and blow that thru the heater system.

When I use to own my Formula with twin 502's, it was nearly impossible to drain the blocks because of poor access. So I would run engine to operating temp and immediately allow antifreeze to get sucked into engine. To be sure I would use 5-6 gallons this way.

I prefer the first method now because I know I've removed all of the water and some sediment/gunk from the block.

JohnE
10-25-2009, 08:21 PM
I fog through the air intake. That's how Joe at MC of Charlotte advised me to do it.

TOO-TALL
10-25-2009, 10:42 PM
njskier..

How do you drain the trans cooler?? just curious.
Your check list is almost identical to mine.

boofer
10-26-2009, 02:20 AM
I add Stabil. Run the engine for about 20 minutes (160). Attach my FAL to a bucket full of 6 gallons of antifreeze. Run the engine again just to circulate the antifreeze. I then drain the oil (if you do not run the engine the oil might take forever to drain). I then remove the starboard side brass plug, port side knock sensor, uncouple the manifold quick drain hose coupling, remove the two hoses from the impeller, and remove the large hose just below the thermostat housing. I use a handpump to pump air through the heater hose input (from thermostat). I then pump a gallon of antifreeze into the hose, then I pump it out. Worst case, only antifreeze is in any heater hose. After all of this I run antifreeze through all of the ballast pumps, then I remove, drain, and store the ballast sacks.

Kingsley X-1
10-26-2009, 03:36 AM
man winterizing must be a PITA!!! all i have to do is put a 60w drop light under the block once or twice a year. Florida is awesome:D

Chicago190
10-26-2009, 10:20 AM
man winterizing must be a PITA!!! all i have to do is put a 60w drop light under the block once or twice a year. Florida is awesome:D

On the other hand, there are no gators, snakes, or brain-eating parasites in northern lakes.

Jerseydave
10-26-2009, 10:38 AM
njskier..

How do you drain the trans cooler?? just curious.
Your check list is almost identical to mine.

I remove both large hoses off the ends of the cooler, then with a garden hose reverse flush the cooler to remove any weeds, seagrass, debris, etc.

meg
10-26-2009, 11:37 AM
If you un 5-6 gallons of antifreeze is there need to do anyhting else i.e. drain the block? Also, I have an 06 MCX that has not been tuned up-is a tune up necessary?

thanks

bigmac
10-26-2009, 11:56 AM
If you un 5-6 gallons of antifreeze is there need to do anyhting else i.e. drain the block? Also, I have an 06 MCX that has not been tuned up-is a tune up necessary?

thanks


Heater and ballast -- dont' forget to winterize those two items.

Tuneup--clean the flame arrestor, replace the PCV valve, replace the spark plugs wouldn't hurt. If you have some kind of ignition problem or RPM's don't turn up like they used to, consider replacing the plug wires.

MasterCraft recommends doing that stuff annually. I haven't done it yet on my 2004. Asked my dealer if I should do the tune-up - he said "why?".

east tx skier
10-26-2009, 12:26 PM
If you un 5-6 gallons of antifreeze is there need to do anyhting else i.e. drain the block? Also, I have an 06 MCX that has not been tuned up-is a tune up necessary?

thanks

The antifreeze does not need to be (and should not be) diluted with water. Of course, if you are running 5--6 gallons, you may be pushing most, if not all of the water out. My preferred practice is to drain and replace with about 2 gallons of antifreeze poured in at the thermostat.

Since I replace my impeller every spring (I have no curiosity as to how long one will last having fished bits and pieces of one out of someone else's cooling system for them. I might feel differently if I had a v-drive though---sounds like a pain), I have no need to have antifreeze in my pump housing.

So I drain and pull hoses, then reconnect and fill with antifreeze. It's not the fastest process, but it is the one I have chosen.

bigmac
10-26-2009, 12:32 PM
(I have no curiosity as to how long one will last having fished bits and pieces of one out of someone else's cooling system for them.


Odd. How do you suppose impeller pieces big enough to cause a problem in coolant flow got through the strainer on the transmission cooler?

Miss Rita
10-26-2009, 12:46 PM
Odd. How do you suppose impeller pieces big enough to cause a problem in coolant flow got through the strainer on the transmission cooler?

They don't get caught in the cooler, that's upstream from the impeller. They get caught within the engine.

When I was winterizing I found a piece of impeller in the t-stat housing and another in the outlet hose from the pump.

bigmac
10-26-2009, 01:26 PM
They don't get caught in the cooler, that's upstream from the impeller. They get caught within the engine.

When I was winterizing I found a piece of impeller in the t-stat housing and another in the outlet hose from the pump.

Yeh, I was thinking of more recent boats - conventional Indmar designs like my 2004, I guess, where the transmission cooler is between the engine and the output side of the raw water pump. Downstream from the raw water pump.

Jerseydave
10-26-2009, 01:57 PM
Quote: "I have no need to have antifreeze in my pump housing."

That may be true, but some rust and corrosion will take place within the coolant passages of an engine if it's not filled with anti-freeze. That's why I prefer to not just drain it, but to refill with a/f to help prevent some internal corrosion. Will this extend the life of the engine....who knows, but it can't hurt.

davomaddo
10-26-2009, 11:30 PM
Why do you drain, then fill with anti freeze?
If you are using anti freeze, can't you skip the drain process?

Can't you just run the boat hooked up to anti freeze until you see antifreeze coming out the exhaust - for a while? The anti freeze I have seen is bright pink.

It might take more antifreeze, but it would be a lot easier.
Any reason to not do this, besides having to buy extra antifreeze?

TOO-TALL
10-27-2009, 12:07 AM
I remove both large hoses off the ends of the cooler, then with a garden hose reverse flush the cooler to remove any weeds, seagrass, debris, etc.

Good idea...I used a air hose one year to blow all the crap out.

Chicago190
10-27-2009, 09:37 AM
Why do you drain, then fill with anti freeze?
If you are using anti freeze, can't you skip the drain process?

Can't you just run the boat hooked up to anti freeze until you see antifreeze coming out the exhaust - for a while? The anti freeze I have seen is bright pink.

It might take more antifreeze, but it would be a lot easier.
Any reason to not do this, besides having to buy extra antifreeze?

If you don't drain the block then you have to make sure the thermostat is open so that no water remains in the block. As for it being "a lot easier", if it takes you more than 10 minutes to remove and reinstall the plugs and the knock sensor then you're doing something wrong.

Jerseydave
10-27-2009, 10:03 PM
If you don't drain the block then you have to make sure the thermostat is open so that no water remains in the block. As for it being "a lot easier", if it takes you more than 10 minutes to remove and reinstall the plugs and the knock sensor then you're doing something wrong.

I agree with you........it's really easy to remove the knock sensor and one block plug (or in my case the hose for the shower). For me I feel better knowing that I drained all the water out of the block and manifolds before adding anti-freeze to the engine. If a tiny amount of water was still in there it will mix with the a/f and not cause any problems. Plus you usually get some silt/dirt/muck/rust out of the block drains so draining every year is a good idea. (I would suggest doing this even to all you guys in the sunshine state too)