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CruisinGA
10-19-2009, 02:13 PM
Just finished winterizing the boat at home, and before I take to boat to storage at the lake, I wanted to check with the experienced folks here to be sure I did everything necessary to not experience a cracked block come April. Boat is an '02 X-9 with the LTR 330.

I did not use any antifreeze, I did-

1) Remove both block drain and knock sensor, and checked for local blockage with a coat hanger.
2) Disconnected at least the lower end of all coolant hoses on the front of the engine and let drain
3) Disconnected the hose that connects the exhaust manifolds behind the engine and routed each half so they could completely drain.
4) Left everything coolant related undone so that residual water can evaporate.

Changed engine oil, removed raw water impeller, removed belt, blew out or drained ballast hoses.
Fogged through intake with engine running, and then fogged each cylinder and turned engine over.
Added appropriate amount of marine stabil and ran engine long enough to ensure it reached the injectors. (Not sure it's really necessary with a MFI engine, but I feel better)


I have some starbrite vinyl protectant, is it worthwhile to apply before storage, since the interior will not see daylight until spring?

Thanks for the help, guys.

captain planet
10-19-2009, 02:31 PM
Did you take the plugs out of the rear of the exhaust manifolds or are those the hoses you are referring to? I just have plugs that hold about a quart of water.

Replace the Starbright with 303.

east tx skier
10-19-2009, 02:33 PM
Looks good as far as freeze protection goes. If you have an aftermarket sea strainer, make sure there's no water in there.

For additional winter maintenance, I'd suggest, cleaning the flame arrester, changing the transmission fluid and disconnecting/removing/charging the battery. I don't know if I'd say that either of these tasks is crucial (though the battery thing is a good idea IMO).

CruisinGA
10-19-2009, 03:21 PM
Capt. Planet- It looks like the hoses could be replaced with plugs. Just a 3/4" NPT fitting at the rear of the manifold. Not sure what the hoses do, they just connect together?

East Tx-
I have a K&N filter, planned on cleaning it come springtime. It looks fairly clean as is. Not a big fan of K&N air filters in my typical off-road automotive applications, but on a boat I don't suppose there is much filtration to be done, and no heated-wire MAF sensors to kill.
I planned on removing the batteries and putting them on a battery maintainer at the lake house for the off season.

I've got a suitable pump for changing the tranny fluid, ran out of time on the day I was doing the work and the fluid looks like it's fresh out of the bottle. Any harm in waiting till the spring or is it similar to engine oil in that it's composition has changed as a result of use and it needs to be removed before sitting?

I'll save the Starbrite for the seats in my Cruiser and buy some 303.

Thanks for the tips,
Bailey

meg
10-19-2009, 03:27 PM
If you run 4-5 gallons of RV antifreeze through the engine is that not adequate for winterazation?

CruisinGA
10-19-2009, 03:42 PM
My understanding is that it can be, but many prefer to just drain everything and not use any antifreeze.

captain planet
10-19-2009, 03:43 PM
If you run 4-5 gallons of RV antifreeze through the engine is that not adequate for winterazation?

Maybe. I have never captured what comes out of the engine to see how much is in there. I know when I empty my engine completely, then run 3 gallons through, I get antifreeze coming out the exhaust and I know it isn't mixed with water. I guess that is my piece of mind.

captain planet
10-19-2009, 03:45 PM
Capt. Planet- It looks like the hoses could be replaced with plugs. Just a 3/4" NPT fitting at the rear of the manifold. Not sure what the hoses do, they just connect together?

East Tx-
I have a K&N filter, planned on cleaning it come springtime. It looks fairly clean as is. Not a big fan of K&N air filters in my typical off-road automotive applications, but on a boat I don't suppose there is much filtration to be done, and no heated-wire MAF sensors to kill.
I planned on removing the batteries and putting them on a battery maintainer at the lake house for the off season.

I've got a suitable pump for changing the tranny fluid, ran out of time on the day I was doing the work and the fluid looks like it's fresh out of the bottle. Any harm in waiting till the spring or is it similar to engine oil in that it's composition has changed as a result of use and it needs to be removed before sitting?

I'll save the Starbrite for the seats in my Cruiser and buy some 303.

Thanks for the tips,
Bailey

Sounds like a previous owner put that there to drain the manifolds easier? It makes sense actually as long as the hose doesn't get caught around the drive shaft or anything else.

flipper
10-19-2009, 04:15 PM
If you run 4-5 gallons of RV antifreeze through the engine is that not adequate for winterazation?
The part I don't like about that is how do you know it got into the block? You'd have to either get it hot enough for the t-stat to open up, or take it out.

CruisinGA
10-19-2009, 04:15 PM
Maybe. I have never captured what comes out of the engine to see how much is in there. I know when I empty my engine completely, then run 3 gallons through, I get antifreeze coming out the exhaust and I know it isn't mixed with water. I guess that is my piece of mind.

So you drain and then run antifreeze through? RV or automotive?

bigmac
10-19-2009, 05:37 PM
Do you have a heater?

If you do, don't forget to at least blow air through it to clear the water. Pumping antifreeze through it is better, IMHO.

I wouldn't worry about the tranny fluid unless it has water in it. The big problem with the engine oil is the acids and blowby combustion products sitting all winter. Not a problem in the transmission.

bigmac
10-19-2009, 05:42 PM
Sounds like a previous owner put that there to drain the manifolds easier? It makes sense actually as long as the hose doesn't get caught around the drive shaft or anything else.
Later models, not sure since when, have that drainage hose installed at the factory.

CruisinGA
10-19-2009, 06:11 PM
Do you have a heater?

If you do, don't forget to at least blow air through it to clear the water. Pumping antifreeze through it is better, IMHO.

I wouldn't worry about the tranny fluid unless it has water in it. The big problem with the engine oil is the acids and blowby combustion products sitting all winter. Not a problem in the transmission.

Kind of what I thought, re the transmission oil.

No heater here.

Thanks again.

captain planet
10-20-2009, 10:23 AM
So you drain and then run antifreeze through? RV or automotive?[/QUOTE]

I run automotive through mine since it is the LT-1 and has aluminum heads. I have heard it isnt' a good idea to put RV in the LT-1 so I have always used automotive.

[QUOTE=bigmac;640048]Do you have a heater?

If you do, don't forget to at least blow air through it to clear the water. Pumping antifreeze through it is better, IMHO.

I wouldn't worry about the tranny fluid unless it has water in it. The big problem with the engine oil is the acids and blowby combustion products sitting all winter. Not a problem in the transmission.

I have always run antifreeze through mine. It is the original core and my boat is 11 years old.