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View Full Version : guidance sought on a couple of matters


LaRue
10-18-2009, 07:22 PM
is the seal around the drive shaft referred to as 'packing?' Based on photo, should i replace and if so, any threads out there on the procedure?

LaRue
10-18-2009, 07:25 PM
may look a bit funny to the rural Iowa farmers but seems to work well. By the way, can i get something to cover the inside hole of the spare tire?

LaRue
10-18-2009, 07:28 PM
can anyone directy me to a place where i can find new graphics for the trailer? i would like to replace the cream colored lines and graphics with blue or black.

LaRue
10-18-2009, 07:42 PM
Is anyone using the Dual Wheel Fulton F2 1,600 Lb. Twin Track Jack? I would like to replace my greasy, constantly getting my hands dirty outdated model. can see product at
http://www.myboatsgear.com/mbg/product.asp?prodID=926

justinglow
10-18-2009, 07:51 PM
can anyone directy me to a place where i can find new graphics for the trailer? i would like to replace the cream colored lines and graphics with blue or black.

Contact Team Talk Member Farmer Ted on here. He can take care of you on the decals.

TMCNo1
10-18-2009, 07:53 PM
is the seal around the drive shaft referred to as 'packing?' Based on photo, should i replace and if so, any threads out there on the procedure?

No, those are your strut bushings and are badly worn to one side, indicating a engine alignment is on order and so is replacing the strut bushings, http://www.ojprops.com/products/strut_bushings.

TMCNo1
10-18-2009, 07:54 PM
may look a bit funny to the rural Iowa farmers but seems to work well. By the way, can i get something to cover the inside hole of the spare tire?

That's the way it works, but making a hole in the end of each side split will capture the whole strap inside and the ball won't gap open.

LaRue
10-18-2009, 08:01 PM
how do i determine if it is an engine alingment issue or bent shaft? Thanks for the strut bushing link.

Also, i am not sure what you mean concering the tennis balls? :rolleyes:

TMCNo1
10-18-2009, 08:10 PM
i am not sure what you mean concering the tennis balls? :rolleyes:

First, cut a nickle side hole in each end of the tennis ball, the make one cut between the holes making your clamshell and then the straps/ropes will be inside the hole and not just the slit. The center ball on the transom shot shows the slit and the holes in each end better than the side strap that has the slit against the gelcoat.
52568

52569

jasonba1
10-18-2009, 08:45 PM
The fulton F2 jack is awesome you will not regret the purchase

Jerseydave
10-18-2009, 09:26 PM
For your spare tire why not measure the hole and go to your local speed shop and buy a suitable center cap for that wheel.

canadianskier
10-18-2009, 09:27 PM
No, those are your strut bushings and are badly worn to one side, indicating a engine alignment is on order and so is replacing the strut bushings, http://www.ojprops.com/products/strut_bushings.

can you buy/replace just the bushing, or does it come with the bracket that the drive shaft goes through? anyone know how much it cost for the bushing

Chicago190
10-18-2009, 10:18 PM
You can buy the bushing separately. No need to purchase a new strut. Should be ~$60.

Cloaked
10-18-2009, 10:24 PM
can you buy/replace just the bushing, or does it come with the bracket that the drive shaft goes through? anyone know how much it cost for the bushingBest place to do business.
http://skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1119


.

JMann
10-18-2009, 11:00 PM
For an engine alignment, is that something the dealer would have to do (how much?) or can you do it yourself?

Chicago190
10-18-2009, 11:05 PM
For an engine alignment, is that something the dealer would have to do (how much?) or can you do it yourself?

Depends on your abilities. Attached are the instructions that have been circulated on Team Talk.

Miss Rita
10-18-2009, 11:14 PM
can anyone directy me to a place where i can find new graphics for the trailer?

A few days ago I was asking about the MasterCraft font. If you didn't need an absolute perfect match you could use the "Hemihead" font and have a sign shop make some graphics in whatever color and size you want.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=33022

canadianskier
10-18-2009, 11:22 PM
the first pic in this thread is how my driveshaft looks and my prop is very hard to turn by hand, should I start with replacing the strut bushing and then check engine alignment? Boat runs smooth no vibartions, btw. Also how hard/easy is it to replace the strut bushing

TMCNo1
10-19-2009, 11:36 AM
LaRue, maybe these will help. The cut allows you to get the straps in the hole, allowing you to slide and position them anywhere on the strap and not allow the ball to gap open, then the pressure of the tight strap against the ball side that is not cut and the gelcoat will keep the ball in place and preventing it from dropping down on the straps. And BTW, a dime or nickle size hole will work, it's just how lucky and wild you are with a X-acto knife! Mashing the ball on the uncut side, make the ball clamshell open to put over the straps.
Also, be careful when buying tennis balls, don't buy the cheap generic no-name ones, just the Wilson or Penn, as some have a black sticky tar inside that will create one hell of a mess, unlike these that just have a hard rubber center lining.
52583

52584

LaRue
10-19-2009, 11:51 AM
thanks for the photos! now i got it. Duh!

if i change the strut bushing, aling morot and shaft, and i am doing so based on recommnedations on photo, not becuase of noise or vibration, should i change shaft bushing as well, since i have to take drive shaft out? And if so, would you guys recommened the dripless style?

TMCNo1
10-19-2009, 12:15 PM
thanks for the photos! now i got it. Duh!

if i change the strut bushing, aling morot and shaft, and i am doing so based on recommnedations on photo, not becuase of noise or vibration, should i change shaft bushing as well, since i have to take drive shaft out? And if so, would you guys recommened the dripless style?

I would think the bushings should be changed before a engine alignment, much like getting a needed front end alignment on a vehicle as soon as a new set of tires have been put on.

Some people like them, want them, but if you want a dripless shaft log, that would be the ideal time to do it.

TMCNo1
10-19-2009, 12:29 PM
thanks for the photos! now i got it. Duh!

if i change the strut bushing, aling morot and shaft, and i am doing so based on recommnedations on photo, not becuase of noise or vibration, should i change shaft bushing as well, since i have to take drive shaft out? And if so, would you guys recommened the dripless style?



Replacing the rope shaft packing is easier with the shaft is out or converting over to the dripless unit. If you keep the rope packing stuffing box/shaft log, only replace the packing with new after the shaft has been reinstalled. Most people prefer them over the old style rope packing kind and think they are maintenance free, but they do need watching and Eric @ OJ Props, http://www.ojprops.com/contact_us, can advise you what may be required down the road if they would start to leak.

JMann
10-19-2009, 01:43 PM
Chicato thanks for the information it doesn't sound that hard. I think it could be done by a DIY'er.

Witness140
10-19-2009, 02:30 PM
The fulton F2 jack is awesome you will not regret the purchase

I've owned two MC trailers in the past. 2006 and 2007 model years - with the old jack.

I like the sturdiness of the F2 in it's ability to lift the tongue. It also doesn't look like it's about to collapse at any second like the old one. Just much more substantial.

However - the plastic wheels don't track well. The dual wheel makes moving the trailer an inch or two side to side to get it on the truck - difficult. It won't rock like the old one did. I find that to be a pain.

Moving the boat by hand the plastic dual wheels just dont rotate as you push the trailer around as well as the old single wheel. For example, you are pushing the boat backwards in the driveway and apply sideways pressure to tongue to turn boat slightly. The F2 wheels are very stubborn. Moving empty trailer makes it even worse, and I've had them just kick sideways on a whim and refuse to track fore/aft without me getting down there to move them by hand.

And finally - I got home one day and went to disconnect from truck....the jack handle was missing from the F2. Found it later in the lower driveway. The roll pin backed out of top gear, shaft slid out, and the entire gear mechanism fell apart from there internally.

LaRue
10-19-2009, 03:37 PM
However - the plastic wheels don't track well. The dual wheel makes moving the trailer an inch or two side to side to get it on the truck - difficult. It won't rock like the old one did. I find that to be a pain.


would you suggest the single wheel version or to refrain from the Fulton altogether?

medicmoose
10-19-2009, 08:05 PM
Is anyone using the Dual Wheel Fulton F2 1,600 Lb. Twin Track Jack? I would like to replace my greasy, constantly getting my hands dirty outdated model. can see product at
http://www.myboatsgear.com/mbg/product.asp?prodID=926

That along with the Fulton winch are good upgrades!

LaRue
01-18-2010, 05:31 PM
Unfortunately i am not mechanically inclinded nor do i have a suitable shop to work on repairs. Therefore, i am going to begin calling around the area to see how much it would cost me to replace strut bushings, shaft bushing (dripless ??), and ensure engine alignment. I also am going to ask them to remove prop as i want to send to OJ Props for inspection and possible refurbishment. Question....any idea of what would be a fair price for the above work to be done on a 2000 Maristar with LTR engine? Appreciate any thoughts!

Jim@BAWS
01-18-2010, 05:53 PM
Removing the strut is pretty basic and can be done w/ basic tools. Your local dealer could do it all for you. Strut removal is a hour, hour and a 1/2 job

Heat gun, opened ended wrench, ratchet ir preferred.

Not that tough to do. If you are not familiar w/ feeler guages and engine alignment let a
dealer do it. There certified techs have been to school for that.

Jim@BAWS

LaRue
06-12-2010, 01:15 AM
thought i would add to this original thread since i have a few questions now that we have used boat a few times since purchasing. boat is 2000 Maristar LTR engine

1. replaced MDC box a couple weeks ago and next time out had my speedometer drop out for 5-10 minutes and then resume. Today speedometer worked all day but had my temp gauge drop out after about 3 hours of use. After shutting off and restarting motor 2-3 times,k no change. 4th time gauge registered and worked for rest of day. Temp is always btw 140-160. Any thoughts?

2. checked drip rate by packing material and it drips about one drop/sec. is this too fast? if so, what is the drip rate and do i just tighten the nut?

3. Noticed today when throttling from idle to 2000 rpm, the engine seems to be making more noise or something is vibrating that wasn't before. Rather hard to diagnose. don't hear or feel anything above 2000 rpm

thanks in advance for any thoughts or suggestions as i came over from I/O not that long ago.

Chicago190
06-12-2010, 11:24 AM
2. checked drip rate by packing material and it drips about one drop/sec. is this too fast? if so, what is the drip rate and do i just tighten the nut?


A lower drip rate is preferred because less water will get into the bilge, 1 drop every 5 seconds is probably good. You may be able to just tighten the nut, depending on how worn the packing rope is at this point. You can also be proactive and replace it with the Goretex packing rope which is virtually drip free if you prefer.

Thrall
06-12-2010, 11:33 AM
thought i would add to this original thread since i have a few questions now that we have used boat a few times since purchasing. boat is 2000 Maristar LTR engine

1. replaced MDC box a couple weeks ago and next time out had my speedometer drop out for 5-10 minutes and then resume. Today speedometer worked all day but had my temp gauge drop out after about 3 hours of use. After shutting off and restarting motor 2-3 times,k no change. 4th time gauge registered and worked for rest of day. Temp is always btw 140-160. Any thoughts????, my 06 dropped the speedo and PP once and then it came back after an hr or so.

2. checked drip rate by packing material and it drips about one drop/sec. is this too fast? if so, what is the drip rate and do i just tighten the nut? That's a little fast, think it's a drip every few seconds, just tighten 1/4 turn and check again.

3. Noticed today when throttling from idle to 2000 rpm, the engine seems to be making more noise or something is vibrating that wasn't before. Rather hard to diagnose. don't hear or feel anything above 2000 rpm

thanks in advance for any thoughts or suggestions as i came over from I/O not that long ago.

The strut bushing, if it's worn more on one side like TMC suggested, get the engine/shaft aligned before replacing. If it's pretty evenly worn, may just have been run dry for a while, that bushing is water cooled and will burn up running dry.
The prop shaft should have zero play in it and the bushing should provide a bit of resistance if you're spinning the prop by hand. ie: if you can spin the prop easily with one finger, it's worn.