PDA

View Full Version : Give me advice, feedback, suggestions, etc... 1989 Tristar


oldscool
10-10-2009, 10:42 AM
I am buying a 1989 Mastercraft Tristar 190. Ford 351 Windsor 370 hours, interior in good shape (replaced vinyl a couple/few years ago), comes with brand new bimini (never used or installed), Skylon tower, wakeboard, tube, ski rope, some pfds, Nice single axle aluminum trailer, New marine battery, Mastercraft storage cover (old). Boat runs, but has not been in the water for a couple years. The gelcoat?paint? is starting to fade?oxidize? but otherwise the hull and paint are in perfect shape. This is my first boat. I have not been water sking in 25+ years (I'm 39) and want to get out with the family and friends to ski/wakeboard ...possibly wakesurf? I am paying $4800.00 ...questions are as follows:

1. Am I getting a good deal?
2. What should I do to make the boat lake ready?
3. How do I make the paint/finish shine again?
4. What do I clean/protect the vinyl interior with?
5. Can you wake surf with this boat?
6 Can you wakeboard with this boat?
7 Are there any non-slip pads I can put on the swim deck ( I hear they are very slippery)
8 Is there a ladder option for swim deck? (I have a seven year old and four year old) How do you climb back in the boat?
9 What can I do to clean/ protect the aluminum? around the windshield
10 what can I use to shine/buff the hull and other parts of the boat?
11 How do I install the Bimini?what hardware? drill through the boat? (scary)
12 Is this a good first boat?
13 I don't have much money... Is this a money pit as far as maintenance, etc...
14 I'm not AT ALL a mechanic... what can I/ should I try to do myself for maintenance? - I'm sure the carb probably needs to be cleaned after sitting so long - like I said it will start and run, but its not been in the water-
15 When running on dry land (with water hooked up) Is it a good idea/bad idea to put it in gear? what can I/ should I do before sea trials?

I know I will have EVEN MORE questions as I said this is my first boat- Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated. i am very nervous about doing this deal, but i have already committed to it. I have given half the cash already and I'll be paying it of over the winter.
Thanks in advance for your comments, answers, fedback etc..

Chicago190
10-10-2009, 02:03 PM
I'll answer a couple, but I think every questioned you asked has been answered before. A few searches will give you everything you need to know.

2. Change the engine oil, transmission fluid, and replace the raw water pump impeller at a minimum. Since it has sat for awhile you may want to do other maintenance items like spark plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, etc.

3. The hull is gel coat, not paint. Oxidation can usually be removed by using a mild rubbing compound, followed up with a good polish and wax. Scratches and really bad oxidation may need to be wet sanded. If the stickers are in bad shape you can find replacements for them.

4. Vinyl cleaners are personal preference. Everyone says their personal choice is the best. I prefer Exquisite Vinyl Cleaner, available on eBay. Here is a nice summary: http://www.wakeboatworld.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=51&Itemid=1 Most people recommend using 303 afterward as a protectant.

5. Yes, you will need to add weight to the boat to get a good wake for surfing, but the Tristar 190 probably won't produce a great surf wake.

6. Yes, you will need to add weight to get a good wakeboard wake, but it will be fine for beginners without ballast.

7. Probably

8. I don't know, I just climb onto the swim platform, but the Tristar 190 is a different boat.

9. Is the aluminum around your windshield an issue? I've never heard about how to care for the windshield on a boat.

10. See above. I prefer 3M products. Spend the money and get a buffer so you don't kill yourself trying to do it by hand.

11. If you have a tower, I would mount the bimini to the tower.

12. Someone else who knows Tristars should answer.

13. BOAT = Break Out Another Thousand, but the particular boat isn't any more or less of a money pit than any other, assuming it hasn't been terribly mistreated.

14. Usual maintenance items above. I would get it in the water after basic maintenance and then you'll find out what else needs to be done like carb rebuild, shaft packing, etc.

15. No, you may not put the boat in gear.

As a side note, why are people obsessed with putting boats into gear on land? It works much better with the boat in the water.

Jim@BAWS
10-10-2009, 02:38 PM
I am buying a 1989 Mastercraft Tristar 190. Ford 351 Windsor 370 hours, interior in good shape (replaced vinyl a couple/few years ago), comes with brand new bimini (never used or installed), Skylon tower, wakeboard, tube, ski rope, some pfds, Nice single axle aluminum trailer, New marine battery, Mastercraft storage cover (old). Boat runs, but has not been in the water for a couple years. The gelcoat?paint? is starting to fade?oxidize? but otherwise the hull and paint are in perfect shape. This is my first boat. I have not been water sking in 25+ years (I'm 39) and want to get out with the family and friends to ski/wakeboard ...possibly wakesurf? I am paying $4800.00 ...questions are as follows:

1. Am I getting a good deal? $4800 GREAT DEAL You will always be able to sell it for that2. What should I do to make the boat lake ready? Full SERVICE $600
3. How do I make the paint/finish shine again? Wetsand and buff
4. What do I clean/protect the vinyl interior with? 303 or a GOOD vinyl conditioner
5. Can you wake surf with this boat? Maybe...not designed for that
6 Can you wakeboard with this boat? Yes you can
7 Are there any non-slip pads I can put on the swim deck ( I hear they are very slippery)
I think I TRISTAR NON SKIDs for the platfrom in stock
8 Is there a ladder option for swim deck? (I have a seven year old and four year old) How do you climb back in the boat? NO
9 What can I do to clean/ protect the aluminum? around the windshield Aluminum cleaner
10 what can I use to shine/buff the hull and other parts of the boat? Again Wetsand and buff depending on condition
11 How do I install the Bimini?what hardware? drill through the boat? (scary)
12 Is this a good first boat? Yes especially at that price
13 I don't have much money... Is this a money pit as far as maintenance, etc...
14 I'm not AT ALL a mechanic... what can I/ should I try to do myself for maintenance? - I'm sure the carb probably needs to be cleaned after sitting so long - like I said it will start and run, but its not been in the water- $600 for and annual service
15 When running on dry land (with water hooked up) Is it a good idea/bad idea to put it in gear? what can I/ should I do before sea trials? Make sure it is NOT for an extended period of time No more than 10 seconds
I know I will have EVEN MORE questions as I said this is my first boat- Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated. i am very nervous about doing this deal, but i have already committed to it. I have given half the cash already and I'll be paying it of over the winter.
Thanks in advance for your comments, answers, fedback etc..


Jim@BAWS Call if you need anything Thanks

oldscool
10-10-2009, 06:01 PM
Thank you for your responses- I REALLY appreciate the feedback!

jipster43
10-11-2009, 02:21 PM
You can't beat those responses with a stick!

JP :)

Thrall
10-11-2009, 11:04 PM
I'd say that's a great deal, if it runs good. 370hrs is about the equivalent of 40,000mi on a car.
Read up on here for maintenance and repair stuff. Lots of good info.
Congrats on your boat. I always wanted a MC since I was a kid. When I got my 190, it was like Christmas!
You can do alot for not too much money, the gelcoat will clean up, gonna take a buffer along with alot of elbow grease.
Like Jim said, that boat, in good condition will never be worth less than what you paid. It's like ahving a savings account you can wakeboard behind!

damaged442
10-12-2009, 10:34 AM
I'd say that's a really good deal for that boat. I've never tried to surf behind mine, but it puts up a decent wake for wakeboarding when you put some weight in it. Be careful when weighted, you can very easily put water over the bow or stern! The advice you got from everyone else is a great place to start. As far as the swim platform is concerned, I've seen some with a mat and others without. Mine does not have one and I have never found the platform slippery.

Best of luck. Make sure you post some pics!

cmw
10-12-2009, 12:40 PM
I think you found a good deal. We don't see many of those come up for sale in our area. We see a lot of Stars and Stripes and and older Prostars, but not many older Tristars or Maristars. It took me a year to locate mine. If the vinyl is in good shape that will save you money on the restoration (2-3k). These boats are easy to work on and the quality that went into these boats is great. I did the same thing you are thinking of with a 1990 Maristar and it turned out great. Most people do not realize how old it is. This site and the people on it were invaluable to me. My advise if you buy is to read old posts (most of my questions had already been asked and answered) and don't be afraid to ask if you have questions. I consider myself pretty handy and I learned a great deal from these guys and had some good laughs in the process. I don't post as much as some, but I am out here looking every other day. Good luck!

Miss Rita
10-12-2009, 01:16 PM
I think the platform is really slippery, especially if you try to stand on it while putting a ski/board on. I have a mat ordered from Seadek. They've been so busy that I've had to wait for more than a month.

TMCNo1
10-12-2009, 01:22 PM
Check this product out for your platform surface area, http://www.noslipgatorgrip.com/servlet/the-Marine--fdsh--Boats/Categories
and here too, http://www.seadek.com/Page_0_Swimplatforms.html?gclid=CJni07j8mZ0CFUdM5Q odLVRm2Q

oldscool
02-01-2010, 01:06 PM
OK... Here I am in the middle of winter and I am still trying to get my boat issues worked out. I got rid of my motorcycle ("dangerous and selfish toy") in favor of the family toy / mid-life crisis toy. I'm beginning to wonder if I've made a bad choice! I spent some of my childhood water skiing and boating, but I haven't done either in 25-30 years --
I am not a rich guy and realistically probably have no business owning a boat for that reason. I am also not a mechanic, but occasionally I do a very little bit of mechanic-ing when I have to. I have bought this boat: …It is a 1989 Mastercraft with ford Inmar 351 Windsor. … I have had problems since I got the boat --- here is what I know:

I don't even know if i have it winterized enough! I hope I haven't caused any other problems. The only thing I did to winterize (because I thought I'd still be working on it and taking it out) was to run antifreeze through the raw water pump. I have it set up to be able to hook a hose to the engine. That is what I did, but I put the hose end in a bucket of diluted anti freeze/coolant (I'm embarassed to say that I didn't know what to use so I actually ran diluted coolant (toxic) through it. Have I really #%@!ed up?) ... I am learning a lot as I go! I just hope I don't screw up too bad before I EVER even get to enjoy the boat.


I've been to the lake three times since I bought this boat:

Trip one--> On the way to the lake (1 hour away), the tail light on my trailer falls off and is trailing behind attached only by the wires! ... OK, I'll fix that later- a little duct tape and we keep going. My first sea trials with it and I'm not a mechanic and I've not ever owned a boat... Boat starts and runs ok for about 20-30 minutes... I run it hard on the advice of some boat mechanics who said when I got it ..."just take it to the lake, run it hard and see what happens" I wasn't cautious enough and didn't watch the temp guage. The hose going from the raw water pump to the heat exchanger blows off and the engine overheats - I paddle back to shore and fix the hose and need to jump start the boat - try to go out again and the boat stalls once I try to get up to speed again - bogging under power --- trip called off --- bring it to a mechanic. Turns out it needs a new alternator and supposedly got a tune up- $700.00 later I try again
Trip two ---> Runs good for about 20-30 minutes... again I'm not looking at the temp guage. Seems to be running good. Run it around for a bit. Run it hard full throttle for a bit and all the sudden realize "something is not right" seconds later I realize the hose has blown off again! It has overheated and stalled and I'm in the middleof the lake. I fix the hose, let it cool and finally get it started - I limp back to shore with it running awful and bring it home. On the way home I am getting a crazy shimmy out of the trailer! DAMN! something else wrong. ... I spend the next day replacing the bearings in the wheels / problem fixed I think. So bring the boat to The mechanic who puts two clamps on the hose and has it running good (at the shop) and says you are good to go, the hose shouldn't come off now! ( All the while I have also found other problems... replaced/fixed the safety kill switch, replaced the ignition switch, gas guage not working needs new sending unit ) I ask the mechanic "I need to be certain this boat is ready and SAFE to take the family out on?" He answers yes... So --->
Trip three ---> Do I take the family out? ...something tells me NO! - I go with a buddy for sea trials again. Seems to run OK, but now I find out after 10-20 minutes cruising around and CAREFULLY WATCHING the temp gauge, for sure that it is overheating WITHOUT the hose coming off. ... MAYBE the hose is blowing off because the heat exchanger is clogged? Also, I figure out that the engine bogs and stalls if you try to accelerate quickly from a idle speed or even from a slow speed.

Anyway here is what I know for sure:

It needs a new thermostat put in ( Old one was taken out by previous owner and never put back- I don’t know why) I have the new part.

It needs new sending unit installed for fuel gauge. I have the new part.

It needs a new MARINE Carburetor – I have the part. – The one that is on it works OK but I’d feel better from a safety point of view about having a true Marine carb on it- Plus the carb that is on it I think is the cause of the engine stalling if you try to accelerate very quickly – you need to slowly increase the throttle or else it will stall out – This is obviously not acceptable for a SKI boat. ...AND THE MAIN PROBLEM IS The engine overheats under load – It will run great and not overheat at all if you run while not moving in gear or run it in gear at idle with no load (barely moving). You can rev it up and everything while not moving and it will not overheat. While in gear under load it will also run ok at idle, but it will run 10-20 degrees hotter at idle under load (moving at idle). As soon as you start going fast(er) the temp will climb and it will overheat. …It has a new impellar and seems to be running water through the exhaust fine. I think there might be parts of the old impellar stuck in the heat exchanger or something? Maybe corrosion in the exhaust manifolds blocking too much flow? It has a dual cooling system? / closed cooling sytem? (not sure what you call it). It runs antifreeze through the block separate from the water it pulls from the lake. I think (I hope) all that needs to be done to fix the overheating is to unclog the heat exchanger or exhaust manifold(s)?

Can anyone help? What might be going rate charged to work on my boat? – I most likely can’t afford to bring the boat to a “boat shop / marine repair” like shop BUT I thought I'd inquire in order to know for sure. I have already spent more time and money trying to get the boat working then I really wanted when I bought the boat. I have brought it to repair shop(s) already stating that I want the boat "lake ready" and want to make sure it works and MAKE SURE ITS SAFE FOR MY FAMILY. Obviously I am very dissapointed to find out after picking it up and spending a lot of money on reapirs that it still doesn't work AND (I didn't know until recently) it is NOT safe because of the NON-marine carb. I Can't beleive other shops didn't tell me that it is not a marine carb on the boat and is not safe with a regular street carb! ...I was NOT looking for a project, but that’s what I’ve ended up with!… at a minimum do you think I’m on the right track with fixing the overheating?

Can anyone guarantee that you can fix my problem(s)? OR at least guarantee that you can find out for sure what the problem is?

Part of my problem is that I am at least 1 hour from the lake- so I work on it and it seems to run great, but until you put the boat in the water and find out it overheats... or you find out other issues that you just wouldn't know about unless it is tested on the water.
Help!

1redTA
02-01-2010, 01:25 PM
[QUOTE=oldscool;656789]

It needs a new thermostat put in ( Old one was taken out by previous owner and never put back- I don’t know why) I have the new part.
{/QUOTE]

An engine can overheat due to no thermostat, the water runs through the motor at a rate (too fast) where no heat absorbtion takes place

and yes you do need a marine carb

cmw
02-01-2010, 01:37 PM
This might not be the advice you were looking for, but... I think you still got a hell of a deal on an old Mastercraft. You need to remember the boat is 21 years old and is going to need some TLC. You say you are not a mechanic, but you can do most of these things yourself. This site is a great source of information. I had to replace my water pump, alternator, battery and many other parts. Jim@BAWS helped me get the right parts and they were easy to replace. My boat was a year newer than yours, but was in much worse shape. I paid more for less and had to reupholster everything. Don't get discouraged. Once you get the kinks worked out, you will be the proud owner of a MasterCraft. You could go buy a newer used boat, but if you have not skied in awhile, you will love the power as your boat will yank you out of the water. I hope you stick with it and we would all love to see pictures. Oh, and replace that impeller inside the water pump. It's not hard on your boat. Good luck!

Ski-me
02-01-2010, 01:38 PM
[QUOTE=oldscool;656789]

It needs a new thermostat put in ( Old one was taken out by previous owner and never put back- I don’t know why) I have the new part.
{/QUOTE]

An engine can overheat due to no thermostat, the water runs through the motor at a rate (too fast) where no heat absorbtion takes place

and yes you do need a marine carb

First order of business is get the correct thermostat in there. So many issues are caused by a faulty or "non-existent" thermostat. Is it overheating after the new T-stat or before? Not clear on this.

I would definitely clean out the exchanger and also look for rubber pieces around the T-stat area when you replace it.

Look at it as an adventure.....at least you are not working on a $25k or $30k boat with these problems. The stress of fixing and spending more money on a boat after so much initial cost would be even more frustrating. :( At least you started with a low investment. It sounds like you are on the right track and keep asking questions in here. If it wasn't for this forum, I would probably be out a few thousand dollars in service fees/repairs. Lots of help here. :)

thatsmrmastercraft
02-01-2010, 01:43 PM
Welcome to Team Talk and sorry to hear your first Mastercraft experience is so trying. From my standpoint you aren't too far from having a safe boat.

So you have to deal with the following:

Where to take your boat for service. You are wasting your money by not taking your boat to a qualified marine mechanic. There are many different issues specific to an inboard marine engine that a competent auto mechanic would not know about. Ask someone for a referral to a good shop. Their rates are not necessarily higher. If they are, you can be assured that you won't be continually taking your boat back for the same thing. The extra labor rate is for the education and training required to fix your boat the first time.

Overheating We need to know more about your system Does it really have a closed cooling system? Chances are you have a restriction in the cooling system that is causing the problems. Get some pictures of your engine from different angles so we can see what you are dealing with.

Carb replacement You are correct that this is a likely cause for the hesitation on acceleration. There are a few other things to look at like spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, points, fuel filter, timing... Changing to the proper carb is a simple process that can be accomplished with basic hand tools and a few pointers.

Trailer issues - taken care of for now? Sounds like you need to give the trailer a thorough inspection before it hits the road again. Be more than happy to provide a list of things to look at.

None of these things are terribly difficult to take do on you own with assistance from the many of knowledgeable people on this site.

Thrall
02-01-2010, 02:57 PM
Sorry to hear you're having so many issues. Good thing is it's winter. You got a few months to get it all sorted out.
First, tackle one issue at a time.
Overheating. Missing the t-stat would not cause it to overheat, may keep it from getting up to temp though. You don't mention anything about checking or changing the impeller. That's the most likely culprit. Good news, it's easy and only about $30. If the impeller isn't tore up, you mentioned heat exchanger, is it closed loop cooling or raw water (open) cooling? If it's closed, is there a enough coolant in the reservior?
Carb? I'm not sure there's anything "marine" about the carb other than the flame arrestor. Post up what model carb you have, there's alot of people familiar with the 351's. Could just need to be rebuilt.
And remember, I know you're stressed about this, but you got a good deal on it. Maybe the first mech took you for a ride, but you'll have to expect to put some repairs in it. Wouldn't matter if it was 10 years newer and cost 3x as much. Just work on it yourself, ask alot of questions here and you'll get it running economically.

FrankSchwab
02-01-2010, 03:16 PM
I bought my boat for the family - and it's been marvelous. I'm not a mechanic, but I am mechanically inclined - I'll attack almost anything outside the valve covers, and a few things inside given sufficient financial incentive.

Don't give up, but you might want to step back and realistically evaluate your abilities. A boat, especially a 20 year old boat, is never going to have the reliability of a car. For example, my Explorer has 160,000 miles on it, and other than oil changes on a regular basis, I've only had to raise the hood a couple of times (although the last one was a doozy). I've got a newer boat, so I haven't had any engine issues, but every year there's maintenance that has to be done - winterization (yes, it gets cold enough out here to make this a good idea), changing the impeller, greasing trailer bearings, greasing rudder/throttle cables, checking/adjusting packing, cleaning the Cheetos grunge out of the carpet, etc. But, once the boat is running, it's really only one long day a year for us.

If you don't have the aptitude, consider making friends who do have the aptitude. I have friends who would come over on a moments notice to help me pull an engine and make major repairs - fortunately, I haven't had to call on them.

By the way, consider taking a Boating Safety course. There's a lot of things to forget in 25 years, especially when you were young and someone else was the responsible adult back then. It's possible to hurt, maim, or kill people if you don't know what you're doing out there; that would put a real crimp in your weekend.

Feel free to keep posting here; there are a lot of helpful people.

/frank

LaRue
02-01-2010, 03:54 PM
Hang in there with that boat. This link should help answer many of your questions.

http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=005775850323706454504:8-nmuizykqo

basically go to google and perform a search on 'TMC'

www.skidim.com is a site you will want to bookmark

as TMCNo1 mentioned the noslip gator grip works good on fiberglass swim decks. We have it on ours.

piper_chuck
02-01-2010, 04:05 PM
Oldschool, where are you located? Sometimes it's helpful to find an experienced person nearby to help you sort things out when you're fairly new with something. I finally updated my profile to say I'm in Columbia, rather than "Southeast", so people would know exactly where I am. Perhaps there's someone near you who could provide some local support while you're working out the new (to you) boat bugs.

TMCNo1
02-01-2010, 04:33 PM
Carb? I'm not sure there's anything "marine" about the carb other than the flame arrestor. Post up what model carb you have, there's alot of people familiar with the 351's. Could just need to be rebuilt.


Apparently according to the NMMA, Coast Guard and Holley there is,
55262

Thrall
02-01-2010, 06:08 PM
TMC, I stand corrected. Just figgered that it's a carb, they all spit gas right?
Good to know.

Jerseydave
02-01-2010, 06:32 PM
I'm not an expert, but if your heat exchanger is more than 5 years old it may need to be replaced. If it were my boat, I'd start with that, a new t-stat, complete tune-up and maybe even convert from points to electronic ignition. Make sure your fuel is not old or dirty, change fuel filter, pressure test your fuel pump, rebuild or replace carb.

Like others have said, get friendly with someone in your area that has some knowledge on inboards. (happened to me 20+ years ago, and I learned alot)

All 20+ year old boats need some work, but it sounds like you've got a good one that may just need some maintenance and nothing more.

damaged442
02-01-2010, 09:11 PM
Don't forget to check your intake hose at the transmission cooler. There is a screen on the transmission cooler which does a decent job of filtering all sorts of stuff that you drive through and pick up along the way. With me, it was a whole lot of pine needles in October. I was driving a buddy of mine through an awesome slalom run on an entire lake of glass. He eats it, I stop and turn around to head back and the temp gauge started climbing to about 180-190 when it normally reads 140-150. Sure enough, pulled that intake hose and it was packed full of pine needles! Now it's the first place I check if I seem to be running warmer than normal. 9/10 times it was the culprit. The other 1/10 was the impeller...

Don't get discouraged! Not all of us are mechanics, just fast learners!

1redTA
02-01-2010, 10:01 PM
TMC, I stand corrected. Just figgered that it's a carb, they all spit gas right?
Good to know.

Dude, I posted the need for a marine carb as well as a themostat.
You dismissed what I said but blew TMC for his reponse. Was it because he was a more knowledgeable member and you knew he may be more epxerienced than you or what?

FrankSchwab
02-01-2010, 10:29 PM
"Dichromate finish" and "Marine Calibration" on the graphic aren't nearly so important as the J-tubes.
In a car, if the carb leaks fuel, it drips on the ground, you notice it when you stop at the local 7-Eleven for a coke, and you get it fixed.
In a boat, if the carb leaks fuel, it drips into the bilge, and you notice it when you turn the key to start the boat, the boat explodes, and you find yourself 20 feet in the air, on fire, saying "hmm, my carb must be leaking".
The J-tubes vent any overflow fuel back into the intake; it might stall the engine, but it won't catch fire.

/frank

TMCNo1
02-01-2010, 10:36 PM
Dude, I posted the need for a marine carb as well as a themostat.
You dismissed what I said but blew TMC for his reponse. Was it because he was a more knowledgeable member and you knew he may be more epxerienced than you or what?

Apparently he made the remark when he was shown why a marine carb had differences to a street carb, meaning a picture is worth a 1000 words.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-01-2010, 10:37 PM
"Dichromate finish" and "Marine Calibration" on the graphic aren't nearly so important as the J-tubes.
In a car, if the carb leaks fuel, it drips on the ground, you notice it when you stop at the local 7-Eleven for a coke, and you get it fixed.
In a boat, if the carb leaks fuel, it drips into the bilge, and you notice it when you turn the key to start the boat, the boat explodes, and you find yourself 20 feet in the air, on fire, saying "hmm, my carb must be leaking".
The J-tubes vent any overflow fuel back into the intake; it might stall the engine, but it won't catch fire.

/frank

Well said.

1redTA
02-01-2010, 10:42 PM
There is more to a marine carb than the J-tubes, for example the shafts are also sealed. I guess ignorance is bliss and the pic may be worth a thousand words to those who are ignorant.

FrankSchwab
02-01-2010, 11:35 PM
1redTA -

OK, I'm ignorant - I didn't realize that the shafts were sealed. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I also looked at the picture, and was enlightened by the "Power valve blowout protection" - I was ignorant of that, but it makes sense.

Do you feel better now?

/frank

thatsmrmastercraft
02-01-2010, 11:53 PM
For what its worth, and not to join the pissing contest, the power valve update was done to all Holley carbs. Used to be one good backfire through the carb and your power valve would blow out leaving it in the full rich mode. Holley sells a kit to perform the update yourself on older carbs.

I am not sure if this was standard on pre '92 marine carbs. Perhaps someone on here has the answer.


Power Valve Check Ball Kit
PART #: 125-500
UPC #: 090127123539
Price $14.25


Power valve “blowout” protection can now be added to pre ‘92 model 2300, 4150 and 4160 carburetors. Consisting of a spring, brass seat and check ball, this kit will effectively protect the power valve and is easy to install. Included is the proper drill bit size, with stop, to facilitate installation. Detailed instructions are included.
Power Valve Check Ball Kit

Features

* Spring
* Brass Seat
* Check Ball
* Protects Power Valve
* Easy To Install
* Proper Drill Bit Size w/Stop
* Detailed Instructions

http://www.holley.com/125-500.asp

FrankSchwab
02-02-2010, 01:07 AM
BTW oldscool, if you want a 1988 brochure, send me a PM. It's not exactly the right year for you, but it's close.

TMCNo1
02-02-2010, 06:37 AM
For what its worth, and not to join the pissing contest, the power valve update was done to all Holley carbs. Used to be one good backfire through the carb and your power valve would blow out leaving it in the full rich mode. Holley sells a kit to perform the update yourself on older carbs.

I am not sure if this was standard on pre '92 marine carbs. Perhaps someone on here has the answer.


Power Valve Check Ball Kit
PART #: 125-500
UPC #: 090127123539
Price $14.25


Power valve “blowout” protection can now be added to pre ‘92 model 2300, 4150 and 4160 carburetors. Consisting of a spring, brass seat and check ball, this kit will effectively protect the power valve and is easy to install. Included is the proper drill bit size, with stop, to facilitate installation. Detailed instructions are included.
Power Valve Check Ball Kit

Features

* Spring
* Brass Seat
* Check Ball
* Protects Power Valve
* Easy To Install
* Proper Drill Bit Size w/Stop
* Detailed Instructions

http://www.holley.com/125-500.asp


Wow, didn't realize there was a Power Valve Check Ball Kit, now I'm ignorant and it feels good! Good job, I also love pictures.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-02-2010, 08:49 AM
Wow, didn't realize there was a Power Valve Check Ball Kit, now I'm ignorant and it feels good! Good job, I also love pictures.

I always say that if you pay attention, you can learn something every day. Now you can take the rest of the day to be distracted and feel OK about it.

Its a very simple fix and only takes a small amount of effort. You sort of have to be in the right frame of mind to drill into a perfectly fine Holley carb though.

oldscool
02-07-2010, 03:42 PM
Thank you all for your input. I am waiting a little on the weather to rip into the engine. I will post pictures when I do. the boat is parked at a friends house or else I put some up now. To answer some questions that have come up ...The Cooling system is closed system, the impellar was replaced with a new one by a mechanic before I got ahold of the boat - I was told that the mechanic showed the guy I got the boat from the old impellar and it was torn to shreds which is why I think the old parts are whats causing the problem. I have opened it up and looked at it and it looks good now.
as far as the Carb goes - i am putting a new (newly rebuilt/remanufactured) Holley marine carb on it. - I have No- idea what you all are talking about with the "pwer valve check ball kit" ...what? I'm not gonna worry about any of that- I'm still just hoping to find some crap blocking the flow somewhere in the heat exchnager or something

thatsmrmastercraft
02-07-2010, 04:16 PM
Sounds like you have a better handle on things now. The reman marine carb is a good way to go. Try not to get overwhelmed - there is a ton on knowledge on this site, and basically the older boats are quite simple. Best of luck and don't hesitate to ask for help or clarification in the future.

Gamble
02-10-2010, 12:37 AM
Like everyone has said, don't get discouraged.............it's supposed to be fun..........you'll get a lot of pride knowing you've helped fix it, and have a great boat when you're done. I had an 83 Stars and Stripes that I practically went completely thru..........I cussed a few times, well alot, but in the end, was proud of my work. You'll get r done, and be able to enjoy it. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure........get it done right, and you'll have many enjoyable days on the water. Take your time, and ask questions, it'll save you a bunch of time and money. Holler if I can help.

oldscool
06-06-2010, 10:22 AM
Thanks all for your input. I have the boat running now and I've been having a lot of fun out with the family. I've wake boarded, slalom water skiied, and wake surfed! I'm lovin it!
Anyone have any recommendations on how to add some ballast? Are there specific ballast bags that will fit well in a Tristar 190? I would love to get the wake a little bigger for wake surfing and I need to keep as much seating for the family. Thanks all! See you on the water!

damaged442
06-06-2010, 02:07 PM
I have used two Fly High V-Drive Fat Sacs (400 lbs ea.) and stuck them on either side of the engine box as far back as I can get them. With six people in the boat, they definitely improved the wake a bit for boarding. With the Tristar, you gotta be careful about adding weight back there or you WILL get water over the stern. If you don't mind it, just make sure your bilge pump works. :D Not sure how well the boat will work for surfing, I've never tried it. I'm kinda reluctant to put a lot of weight on just one side. Good luck. Glad to see you are enjoying the boat.

Thrall
06-07-2010, 03:33 PM
oldscool, glad you got 'er running good!


Dude, I posted the need for a marine carb as well as a themostat.
You dismissed what I said but blew TMC for his reponse. Was it because he was a more knowledgeable member and you knew he may be more epxerienced than you or what?

Saaay whaaaaat?
I didn't even see your post regarding the marine carb, don't get you panties in a wad! No offense meant.