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View Full Version : Impeller help, and Antifreeze


5280Hawk
10-08-2009, 05:12 PM
I winterized my 02 X-star last weekend, and two thing that had me baffeled -

I couldn't get the Raw water impeller out of the housing, I was afraid i was going to tear it up pulling on it with needle nose pliers, and I can't really see it since it's a V-drive and the water pump is facing the stern.

Also I couldn't get the boat to take any Anitfreeze, either through the Intake under the boat; or through the Hose inlet at the Flush valve in the engine compartment. I did realize after I had gone to plan B and Drained everything that the Flush valve's Hose intake had a Ball valve and the little plastic thing was to push the ball down. Is that right? should i have put the small tube inside there to push the ball valve down to let the antifreeze into the system? I ended up almost overheating the boat trying to add antifreeze :mad:

AND The Fuel Filter I bought was the wrong kind, Is the Fuel Filter on my boat right there acting as the Plug in the top of the fuel tank where the lines come out??

Thrall
10-08-2009, 05:44 PM
Regarding the impeller, they'er tough to get out sometimes. 2 Needle nose pliers, pulling on the splined brass part and rubber body usually works, otherwise, 2 screwdrivers to pry it out. Mars the corner of the housing a little, but not too bad. When you put a new one in, coat the pump shaft good with some anti seize. It will come out a little easier next year.

The hose bib on the flush valve should be upstream of the oneway valve, allowing water to the engine, but not back out the raw water intake.

Don't know about the fuel filter.

rudaire
10-08-2009, 06:00 PM
I winterized my 02 X-star last weekend, and two thing that had me baffeled -

I couldn't get the Raw water impeller out of the housing, I was afraid i was going to tear it up pulling on it with needle nose pliers, and I can't really see it since it's a V-drive and the water pump is facing the stern.

Also I couldn't get the boat to take any Anitfreeze, either through the Intake under the boat; or through the Hose inlet at the Flush valve in the engine compartment. I did realize after I had gone to plan B and Drained everything that the Flush valve's Hose intake had a Ball valve and the little plastic thing was to push the ball down. Is that right? should i have put the small tube inside there to push the ball valve down to let the antifreeze into the system? I ended up almost overheating the boat trying to add antifreeze :mad:

AND The Fuel Filter I bought was the wrong kind, Is the Fuel Filter on my boat right there acting as the Plug in the top of the fuel tank where the lines come out??

just did mine last weekend. It was a bear to get out. I ended up getting it with two flat blade screwdrivers prying off the housing. Next time I'm going to shell a couple of ball point pens, slide the plastic cover over the screwdriver shaft leaving the screwdriver blade exposed, and that way the plastic from the ballpoint pen won't gouge the pump housing. But I didn't mar mine even without the plastic..

As for the flush valve.. You're not looking at the hose inlet just past the ball valve for the ballast system, are you? That would explain why the motor wasn't taking anything.. Anyway, since you pulled your impeller, or at least drained the housing, you can just pull the larger hose off the thermostat housing and pour antifreeze in there. Even if the engine is cold, it will flow straight into the block, and as long as you've pulled your knock sensor and drain plug (you need to), it will flow right out of the holes in the block and into the bilge.. Don't forget to uncouple the hose from the manifold risers and you're good. From everything I've read, you can skip the antifreeze step.. just make sure you don't have water trapped in the 'j' shaped hose that leads from the thermostat housing to the recirc pump inlet, the hose that you can pour the antifreeze in if you want to fill the block without using the engine to 'pump' it in..

dave

TMCNo1
10-08-2009, 06:00 PM
I winterized my 02 X-star last weekend, and two thing that had me baffeled -

I couldn't get the Raw water impeller out of the housing, I was afraid i was going to tear it up pulling on it with needle nose pliers, and I can't really see it since it's a V-drive and the water pump is facing the stern.

Also I couldn't get the boat to take any Anitfreeze, either through the Intake under the boat; or through the Hose inlet at the Flush valve in the engine compartment. I did realize after I had gone to plan B and Drained everything that the Flush valve's Hose intake had a Ball valve and the little plastic thing was to push the ball down. Is that right? should i have put the small tube inside there to push the ball valve down to let the antifreeze into the system? I ended up almost overheating the boat trying to add antifreeze :mad:

AND The Fuel Filter I bought was the wrong kind, Is the Fuel Filter on my boat right there acting as the Plug in the top of the fuel tank where the lines come out??


6 times out of 10 your gonna do some damage to the impeller, so it's best to get a new one for next spring and a spare just in case you ever need it if the one your running takes a dump or you meet someone who have had one go bad on the water and doesn't have a spare.

nmcjr
10-08-2009, 06:47 PM
Ya, replace it for sure. (same boat) I have not tried all the methods mentioned above, but I spray in soap and then turn it over a couple times. Then, using a mirror lock two needle nose vise grips onto the fins. Then, and this is the key part, I wrap a towel around both vise grips for traction and pull and it comes right out.

88 PS190
10-08-2009, 06:56 PM
I've had good luck using two paint can openers, and I use glycerin as a lubricant, which is what they recommend as safe for impeller lubricant (cheap bottle at walmart/walgreens/target)

I also apply quite a bit of glycerin as a dry start preventative in the spring when I install the impeller.

The way I feed my engine antifreeze is to remove the hose that goes from the thru hull to the transmission cooler (if yours has one) then I have a piece of radiator hose that fits, slip that over the transmission cooler, funnel in the hose and feed, I have some one else start it once I have quite a bit into the funnel. Quite simple on a prostar, might need adaptation for your boat.

Hrkdrivr
10-08-2009, 10:38 PM
Sometimes "bumping" the starter after you've removed the impeller cover will get the impeller to shift out of the housing a little, which will give you more to grab with needle-nose or regular pliers.

When I do this I pull the kill-switch lanyard so there's no chance the engine will actually fire and start.

cdstukey
10-08-2009, 10:40 PM
+1 on the paint can openers, plus they are free in the Home Depot paint department (usually on the counter by the mixer)

bigmac
10-08-2009, 11:35 PM
I'm sure the paint can openers work great on a direct drive inboard. For most V-drives, they are unworkable.

davomaddo
10-09-2009, 01:06 AM
On a V-Drive, removing the impeller sucks.
I think I will be getting one of these:
http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=1244

It is $50 - but it should make the job on a V-drive 100% easier - making it worth it if you plan on having to do this task many years into the future.

mayo93prostar
10-09-2009, 08:04 AM
Hawk, Yes on the flush valve tube, you need to put this in there to open the ball valve so it will suck the antifreeze in. you may also want to put duck tape over the pickup on the bottom of the hull to provide more suction through the hose port. without the small tube, the ball valve is closed. normally the water pressure from a hose opens this valve but sucking from an antifreeze bottle will not do it.

5280Hawk
10-09-2009, 12:01 PM
Hawk, Yes on the flush valve tube, you need to put this in there to open the ball valve so it will suck the antifreeze in. you may also want to put duck tape over the pickup on the bottom of the hull to provide more suction through the hose port. without the small tube, the ball valve is closed. normally the water pressure from a hose opens this valve but sucking from an antifreeze bottle will not do it.

Bingo!

That makes a ton of sense since the hull Intake would still suck air. I Appreciate all the Suggestions you guys!! I have the Boat all tarped up now so I'll have to do the Impeller next spring, and not worry so much about boogering it up, :D

bigmac
10-09-2009, 12:34 PM
On a V-Drive, removing the impeller sucks.
I think I will be getting one of these:
http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=1244

It is $50 - but it should make the job on a V-drive 100% easier - making it worth it if you plan on having to do this task many years into the future.

Better check the clearance between the raw water pump and the Silentmaster muffler before dropping the $50. On my V-drive, I don't have the clearance to use one.

http://mccollister.info/rwpumpclearance.jpg

dpolen
10-09-2009, 12:43 PM
I bought one of these last year, makes pulling that impeller a breeze on my V-Drive..I can change the impeller in just a few minutes. Heck of a lot cheaper than paying the service department $150+ to do it. I don't seem to have the clearance issues that bigmac does (I'm assuming he's got a bigger motor in his than my maristar).

On a V-Drive, removing the impeller sucks.
I think I will be getting one of these:
http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=1244

It is $50 - but it should make the job on a V-drive 100% easier - making it worth it if you plan on having to do this task many years into the future.

jkski
10-09-2009, 02:08 PM
As far as getting antifreeze into the block: After you remove all of the plugs and drain the water, simply put them back in, take the hose that comes from the hull grate to the water pump and remove it from the pump. Next take a piece of radiator hose or something of similar rigidity, that is cut about 4 feet in length, attach it to water pump where you just removed the exisiting hose, fill a 5 gallon bucket with your mix of antifreeze, put the end of the hose in and fire her up. As long as the hose is on the water pump tightly, the contents of the bucket will get sucked in and when you reach the bottom, shut it off as you are now done.

davomaddo
10-09-2009, 05:12 PM
Better check the clearance between the raw water pump and the Silentmaster muffler before dropping the $50. On my V-drive, I don't have the clearance to use one.

http://mccollister.info/rwpumpclearance.jpg

Good point. I think you need 5 or 6 inches of clearance for the tool to work.
My new X-15 has plenty of clearance. My old Malibu wasn't so good, but not as bad as bigmacs... That is crazy. It looks like you don't even have room to get a socket wrench on that top bolt.

Guys with direct drives have it so easy when it comes to engine work.

Hrkdrivr
10-09-2009, 06:24 PM
Bingo!

That makes a ton of sense since the hull Intake would still suck air. I Appreciate all the Suggestions you guys!! I have the Boat all tarped up now so I'll have to do the Impeller next spring, and not worry so much about boogering it up, :D

I found the same issue last year when trying to get anti-freeze to suck into my ballast system. After about an hour I remembered I had a ball-valve shutoff inside the hull for the ballast intake. With that gaping hole in the bottom of the boat, all the ballast pumps would do was suck air instead of anti-freeze.

Fortunately I also have the same ball-valve setup on the raw-water intake, so I can shut it off too when I use a hose on the barb-tee I installed to run the engine in the driveway (otherwise all the hose water pours out the bottom of the boat rather than to the impeller).

The biggie here is remembering to OPEN that valve back up before hitting the lake again. A dealer I know took a boat with an L-18 engine to the lake for a delivery shakedown and that valve was closed (nobody knew why). That mistake cost them a few $$$ I'm sure.

5280Hawk
10-09-2009, 08:45 PM
After reading on here a little more, i realized what i have is a Perko Flush valve, so its spring loaded on the Lake side, I'ts a learning process right!!;)

TMCNo1
10-09-2009, 08:55 PM
After reading on here a little more, i realized what i have is a Perko Flush valve, so its spring loaded on the Lake side, I'ts a learning process right!!;)

A more serious part of the learning process, will be next spring if you forget to check or replace the impeller and the first time out, it overheats and you have to be towed in.:twocents:
Please don't forget!

5280Hawk
02-22-2010, 07:14 PM
Nope not a chance. Im already thinking about everything i have to do, and it's only February!!